In Praise of Shadows Kokoro Shiraz 2022
G 95
30% whole bunches in the middle layer of ferment. Blewitt Springs fruit. ‘Whoa, where are we?’ is my first thought, as I draw the wine to my nose. Blackcurrant, prune plums, olive tapenade and chipotle. A weave of thyme and woodsy rosemary stem. This drinks like a cool climate Syrah style but with the added beguile of being clearly Blewitt Springs. I’m enamoured. A sappy and savoury palate with the whole bunch adding further scope of aromatics. Acidity is fine and airy; the Blewitt Springs tends to perform in the glass. It’s meaty yet pretty, crunchy yet plush. A true wine
for contemplation. Drink now–2030 James Haselgrove Futures Shiraz 2021
G 95
We are in the depths of the cellars here with blackberry compote, coffee liqueur and cardamom pods. This is chock full of cassis and boysenberry jam on the palate. Underpinned by mocha, wattleseed and paper bark. Tannins are gritty and drying but maintain the upright foundations. The compactness of tannins holds your attention and gaze and pulls you back in for another sip. A wealth of fruit, spice and savoury layers to unpack. Take your time. Drink now–2030 Koomilya Cabernet Touriga 2021 G 95 This bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga has them getting along like great old mates. Cassis and kirsch meet bilberry and granite. There is a backdrop of perilla leaf and thistle with star anise and allspice along for the ride. Tannins frame the wine and a nostalgic hint of black pepper comes through to finish. It’s got muscle, but elongation too. Drink now–2034 Lloyd Brothers Western Block 1 Shiraz 2022 G 95 Matured for 16 months in French oak. A posey of lavender and rosella flowers. Cassis and kirsch, blackberries and cassia bark. Star anise and five spice with Davidson plum. Walking the fine line of ripe and not quite jammy, this is beautiful poised. Acidity sucks at the palate, compacting the fruit concentration and drawing out the vanilla bean notes. It’s graceful and delivers pedigree and finesse. Drink now–2032 Mr Riggs Burnt Block Shiraz 2021 G 95 Bramble, blackcurrant and kirsch. Russian cherry tea and black cardamom. The wine arches with lashings of fresh acidity and silty tannins. It’s shaped like a triangle where the highest point is black-fruited tones, and oak and spice provide the steep sides. Cocoa nib, tonka bean and black sesame. It’s moreish and shows some cool climate elements within its make-up. Enchanting. Drink now–2030
South Australia 2024
265
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