Dandelion Vineyards Moonrise Kingdom Grenache Petite Sirah 2023
In Praise of Shadows Kokoro Shiraz 2022
G 95
G 95
Blackberries and thorny bush fruits. Soft liquorice and carob. Gritty succulent potting soil with hints of long pepper and caraway spice. Perky in its uplifts of acidity followed by a spot of blueberries and prune plums. It has a solid shape, almost cube-like, that defines its character, powdery tannins and acidity that keep it upright, but with a mid palate that fills in the outline. Vibrant and with well designed structural elements built for the long haul. Will cellar well for another eight years. Drink with venison and pepper sauce. Drink now–2032 Haselgrove Wines The Ambassador Shiraz 2021 G 95 Davidson plum, wild cherry and rose petal. Sweet tobacco, tonka bean and sumac spice. Tannins are silky and fine with quite agile acidity. This is well integrated and drinking very well now. Plenty of poise and restraint with oak handling. Its time in bottle has gradually transformed this into a real beauty. Drink now–2028 Haselgrove Wines Col Cross Shiraz 2021 G 95 The Col Cross speaks of an alchemist’s place of work. Tinctures of exotic red fruits, cherry liqueur and steeped teas. Bitter herbs, gnarled root and coffee bean. It’s lively on the palate with a pep in its step, fruit is well captured here. A very smooth drink indeed. A touch of mysticism about this wine. Drink now–2030 Heirloom Vineyards Alcala Grenache 2023 G 95 A cordial of apple and raspberry, cranberry and Christmas cherries. Bergamot and rosella blooms. The palate unfurls with fruit first and then a traveller’s spice box of wonderous things. Amchoor powder, harissa, saffron and pink peppercorn. Its tannins intertwine and create a basket for which to carry the flavours. Acidity arches and falls elegantly. Here, you do not see the cracks that Grenache can sometimes bring, alcohol is in check, medicinal or confectionary fruit? Not here. This is very impressive and rings in harmony for a long time. Heavenly. Drink now–2030 In Praise of shadows Komorebi Grenache 2023 G 95 60% whole bunch, 25% extended maceration in eggs, and 15% destemmed oak elevage. All Clarendon fruit. Persimmon fruit, wild raspberries and quince bitters. Peach rose, Aperol and goji berry. A swathe of mighty acidity followed by fine interlocking tannins. There are Alpine strawberries and cinchona bark on the finish. This falls into the fine and ethereal Grenache realms with such pretty tones of rouge and tangerine that you might forget it has such robust structure. It will outlast most fair-weather friends. A ‘smart’ wine indeed, with plenty of soul. Memorable to the core. Drink now–2034
30% whole bunches in the middle layer of ferment. Blewitt Springs fruit. ‘Whoa, where are we?’ is my first thought, as I draw the wine to my nose. Blackcurrant, prune plums, olive tapenade and chipotle. A weave of thyme and woodsy rosemary stem. This drinks like a cool climate Syrah style but with the added beguile of being clearly Blewitt Springs. I’m enamoured. A sappy and savoury palate with the whole bunch adding further scope of aromatics. Acidity is fine and airy; the Blewitt Springs tends to perform in the glass. It’s meaty yet pretty, crunchy yet plush. A true wine
for contemplation. Drink now–2030 James Haselgrove Futures Shiraz 2021
G 95
We are in the depths of the cellars here with blackberry compote, coffee liqueur and cardamom pods. This is chock full of cassis and boysenberry jam on the palate. Underpinned by mocha, wattleseed and paper bark. Tannins are gritty and drying but maintain the upright foundations. The compactness of tannins holds your attention and gaze and pulls you back in for another sip. A wealth of fruit, spice and savoury layers to unpack. Take your time. Drink now–2030 Koomilya Cabernet Touriga 2021 G 95 This bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga has them getting along like great old mates. Cassis and kirsch meet bilberry and granite. There is a backdrop of perilla leaf and thistle with star anise and allspice along for the ride. Tannins frame the wine and a nostalgic hint of black pepper comes through to finish. It’s got muscle, but elongation too. Drink now–2034 Lloyd Brothers Western Block 1 Shiraz 2022 G 95 Matured for 16 months in French oak. A posey of lavender and rosella flowers. Cassis and kirsch, blackberries and cassia bark. Star anise and five spice with Davidson plum. Walking the fine line of ripe and not quite jammy, this is beautiful poised. Acidity sucks at the palate, compacting the fruit concentration and drawing out the vanilla bean notes. It’s graceful and delivers pedigree and finesse. Drink now–2032 Mr Riggs Burnt Block Shiraz 2021 G 95 Bramble, blackcurrant and kirsch. Russian cherry tea and black cardamom. The wine arches with lashings of fresh acidity and silty tannins. It’s shaped like a triangle where the highest point is black-fruited tones, and oak and spice provide the steep sides. Cocoa nib, tonka bean and black sesame. It’s moreish and shows some cool climate elements within its make-up. Enchanting. Drink now–2030
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
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