Bleasdale The Riparian Vineyard Malbec Malbec 2022
G 93
Lovely dark and intense aromas of dark plum, black pepper, nutmeg and blackberry. Air unlocks an earth and game meat, adding complexity and interest. The palate holds cool dark fruit in a slippery texture – dark plum and blackberry sit above black pepper and subtle camphor before fine-grained tannins frame things up along with juicy blackberry acidity. Lovely long length through the finish. There’s class
and poise here. Drink now–2028 Bremerton Bâtonnage Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023
G 93
Reserved aromas toffee, preserved lemon and grapefruit meld with butter and toast, before shortcrust pastry and shortbread. Some air unlocks riper stone-fruit notes of peach and grilled nectarine. Quite rich and round, thus far. The palate follows suit with citrus preserves, toast, butter, peach and pastry dough sitting in a voluminous texture, cut by gentle phenolic structure and bitter acidity to medium length. It’s rich, as the name suggests, but nicely restrained and balanced. Drink now–2028 Heartland Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 93 Restrained aromas of blackcurrant, old leather, and plum lead the charge before a swirl of the glass reveals nutmeg and tilled earth to nicely fill it out. The palate is full-bodied with good intensity and power. Blackcurrant, mint, mocha, and chocolate burst through the mouth, though in a controlled frame thanks to firm, grainy graphite and mocha tannins. There’s good long length here, defined by dark fruits, mocha and mint with a wash of latent acidity to cleanse the mouth. A bold Cabernet that doesn’t shy away from oak, fruit, or structure, but it all works together well in its style. Drink 2027–2035 Kimbolton Fiano Fiano 2024 G 93 Savoury and spicy aromas lead the charge here with spiced pear, fennel, green almond and subtle brine. Air unlocks some pastry dough aromas to fill it out and add interest. The palate has a reserved feel, with lemon rind, pear, green apple skin and almond with some honey in support. It all gets quickly encased in fresh green apple skin acidity making for a fresh and tensile close. Fresh and nicely textured. There’s a lot going on here in a $27 price point. Drink now–2026 Lake Breeze Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz Shiraz 2021 G 93 Cedar and vanilla bean at the fore with liquorice root, dark plum, blackberry trying to push through. A good swirl of the glass brings more balance, but there’s some stubbornness to the oak aromas. The palate is full-bodied, rich and velvety with lashings of dark plum and blackberry again, followed by subtle earth and a glimmer of dark chocolate. While the fruit is dark and bold, there is a coolness to it. The finish is framed by grainy black tea tannins and dark-fruited acidity to good length. Drink 2028–2033
South Australia 2024
229
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