Heartland Single Vineyard Shiraz Shiraz 2016
Bleasdale The Riparian Vineyard Malbec Malbec 2022
G 94
G 93
A heady and opulent Shiraz at eight years of age. Cedar oak and leather at the fore aromatically, followed by earth, soy sauce, desiccated coconut, fig cake, and plum pudding. Time in the glass offers up black liquorice and a welcome savoury note of dried garrigue. The palate is soft and round, ripe and rich with notes mirroring the nose led by ripe plum, coconut, and chocolate. There’s big structure here, with stacked, chocolate tannins and a latent kick of youthful acidity through a long finish. This is very bold and won’t be to everyone’s palate, but you can’t deny its complexity and power. Drink now–2028 Heartland Shiraz Shiraz 2021 G 94 Mulberry and blackberry sit above attractive black pepper spice straight up, with some beetroot and earth to follow. Beautiful cohesion through the aromatics, with a lovely pitch of fruit, spice and earth. The palate is restrained and poised, though intense. Blackberry and mulberry again, with a dusting of pepper and beetroot in tow along with a glimmer of mocha attaching to fine, grainy tannins and an assertive acid line that bursts through the finish to good length. And all of this for $25. Outrageous value. Drink now–2031 Lake Breeze Old Vine Grenache Grenache 2023 G 94 Musk and plum aromas make way for macerated strawberry, raspberry, nutmeg and cinnamon with an underpinning of earth adding depth and complexity. Lovely balanced and inviting aromatics. The palate is bright and lifted, with pops of red cherry, raspberry, strawberry and plum gliding high through the mouth while brown spice dances around the edges. Ribbons of svelte tannins frame the palate and pull length along with waves of red-fruited acidity. This is fine-boned and beautifully balanced. A steal for the money. Drink now–2029 Lake Breeze Arthur’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2021 G 94 Bell pepper, bay leaf and cassis sit at the fore of an elegant and restrained aromatic profile, before choc mint, nutmeg and tilled earth emerge to flesh it out. The palate is both restrained and intense. Blackcurrant, cedar, bay leaf and earth with dark chocolate and ground coffee in support. There’s a weave of espresso tannins and juicy blackcurrant acidity providing backbone and dimension through a long and balanced finish. This is complex, classy and elegant. Drink now–2029 Barristers Block Aston Fiano Fiano 2022 G 93 Fresh and bright aromas of white peach, almond, pear and green apple with some salinity in tow. Some nice bitter and savoury notes intermingling with fruit notes led by pear and white peach before a fresh, saline and attractively bitter finish. A lovely and true expression for Fiano. Drink now–2026
Lovely dark and intense aromas of dark plum, black pepper, nutmeg and blackberry. Air unlocks an earth and game meat, adding complexity and interest. The palate holds cool dark fruit in a slippery texture – dark plum and blackberry sit above black pepper and subtle camphor before fine-grained tannins frame things up along with juicy blackberry acidity. Lovely long length through the finish. There’s class
and poise here. Drink now–2028 Bremerton Bâtonnage Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023
G 93
Reserved aromas toffee, preserved lemon and grapefruit meld with butter and toast, before shortcrust pastry and shortbread. Some air unlocks riper stone-fruit notes of peach and grilled nectarine. Quite rich and round, thus far. The palate follows suit with citrus preserves, toast, butter, peach and pastry dough sitting in a voluminous texture, cut by gentle phenolic structure and bitter acidity to medium length. It’s rich, as the name suggests, but nicely restrained and balanced. Drink now–2028 Heartland Director’s Cut Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 93 Restrained aromas of blackcurrant, old leather, and plum lead the charge before a swirl of the glass reveals nutmeg and tilled earth to nicely fill it out. The palate is full-bodied with good intensity and power. Blackcurrant, mint, mocha, and chocolate burst through the mouth, though in a controlled frame thanks to firm, grainy graphite and mocha tannins. There’s good long length here, defined by dark fruits, mocha and mint with a wash of latent acidity to cleanse the mouth. A bold Cabernet that doesn’t shy away from oak, fruit, or structure, but it all works together well in its style. Drink 2027–2035 Kimbolton Fiano Fiano 2024 G 93 Savoury and spicy aromas lead the charge here with spiced pear, fennel, green almond and subtle brine. Air unlocks some pastry dough aromas to fill it out and add interest. The palate has a reserved feel, with lemon rind, pear, green apple skin and almond with some honey in support. It all gets quickly encased in fresh green apple skin acidity making for a fresh and tensile close. Fresh and nicely textured. There’s a lot going on here in a $27 price point. Drink now–2026 Lake Breeze Winemaker’s Selection Shiraz Shiraz 2021 G 93 Cedar and vanilla bean at the fore with liquorice root, dark plum, blackberry trying to push through. A good swirl of the glass brings more balance, but there’s some stubbornness to the oak aromas. The palate is full-bodied, rich and velvety with lashings of dark plum and blackberry again, followed by subtle earth and a glimmer of dark chocolate. While the fruit is dark and bold, there is a coolness to it. The finish is framed by grainy black tea tannins and dark-fruited acidity to good length. Drink 2028–2033
228
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
229
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