Deviation Road Loftia Sparkling 2021
G 95
An 80% Chardonnay/20% Pinot Noir cuvée with superb depth of aroma and already a complexing delicate autolysis appearing – exciting at this level. The fruit notes are in a grapefruit and roasted lemon spectrum, before faint sourdoughy and saline senses reveal. Deliciously refreshing with great flavour and defined mousse. 12.5% alc Traditional method Drink now–2030 Lloyd Brothers Estate Picpoul Picpoul 2024 G 95 Pale colour, citrus blossom and zest, purity in its singularity. Lovely settled flavours and texture, green apple, lemon juiciness all in synch, even at this young age, mouthwatering and salivating above all. Amazing that the flavours can be so clear even at such low abv. Delicious. 10.5% alc Drink now–2030 Murdoch Hill Orion Syrah Shiraz/Syrah 2022 G 95 An initial suggestion of blacksmith and flint, yet classy shiraz fruit shines more than anything, especially as it hits the palate, spot-on ripeness with some skins and stem elements in play, juicy and subtle spiced savouries adding plenty of underlying complexity and interest. Respect. Drink now–2032 Murdoch Hill The Phaeton Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 95 From the Lenswood and Piccadilly districts. Darker cherry notes, a walk in the forest, a light nod of cola and darker spices – just a pinch. All the Pinot elements come out to play, while a fairly serious palate structure awaits, tannins filling the mouth yet still allowing all the flavours to finish on top. 12.5% alc Drink now–2035 Petaluma ANOVA Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 95 A new top-shelf release of Petaluma Chardonnay, from a range of vineyards across the region. Immediate attractions of ripe stone fruit and quality oak, then a generous palate, typical of the house style, intense fruit with oaky char and flinted ferment characters, all whizzed into a fervour with high-energy lemon-like zing. A bit of a
show stopper. Drink now–2034 Protero Gumeracha Nebbiolo Nebbiolo 2022
G 95
Protero’s Gumeracha vineyard is a pioneering site for the prized Piedmonte variety in the Hills, with Steve Pannell, the winemaker, for much of its existence. The colour here is classically rubyesque, the nose displaying much of the variety’s savoury vibes, dried spice mix, subtle potpourri, a fleshiness as well, with a palate ripeness and familiar coating Nebbiolo tannins midfield and beyond. Solid stuff, and requires fairly hearty braise-like dishes to drink to its best design.14.5% alc Drink now–2035
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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