Tapanappa B&V Vineyard Syrah 2021
G 96
An Australian Syrah that actually lives up to the name, with a heart of bright spice, bursting in aromatic red and black berries and boasting a lightness of touch. How is this possible in a wine that is 14.9% alcohol? Well, for that answer look no further than the experienced hand of winemaker, Brian Croser, and his co-winemaker, Michael Symons. In 1992, the Symons family planted Syrah at Mount Barker because of its similarity to the soils of the Northern Rhône. For decades, the fruit was sold to Petaluma, but more recently small parcels were made available to Tapanappa. This is, according to Croser, a Distinguished Site, that is, it is super special. Arousing lifted scents of briar, bramble, wild black fruits, blueberry, earth, anise and spice. So on point in capturing a cool climate, aromatic, medium-bodied Syrah (aka Shiraz) that moves with energy and life bringing fruit and spice to the fore. Sage, pepper, allspice, anise, and a light floral injection sit comfortably amid the blackberry, red plums, and supple texture afforded by maturation in seasoned barriques. Warm in generosity off a terrific vintage year, flows easily, flows long. More please! Drink now–2031 Murdoch Hill Rocket Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 The first of the Rockets to plug entirely into the estate Lenswood Vineyard, which, from this, seems to have fine-tuned the white stone-fruit purity. The cooler ‘23 vintage may also be a factor. It’s delicate in its first steps, faint florals and citrus edging, though it gradually opens up with more overt Chardonnay character, a light nutty praline-like note appearing, minerality adding to the complexities that unfold. A proper star. 12.5% alc Drink now–2034 Barratt Uley Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 95 Flint and char notes ride high in the aromatics, and also take up a fair bit of room in the palate, though there’s excellent fruit in there as well. Classic stone fruit and quince. Reserve styling, good weight and structure. Classy wine. Drink now–2032 Basket Range Wine Estate Cabernet Blend Cabernet blend 2023 G 95 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot join here in a subtle yet immensely attractive ripe cassis and blue-black fruits focused wine, medium weighted with fine pepper and spice seasonings, an ensemble joy, as varietal tannins come into play at the exit, with a dash of gastronomical bitterness.
Elegant and delicately touched. 13% alc Drink now–2036 Deviation Road Altair (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Meunier) Rosé Sparkling NV
G 95
Light apricot rosé hue. A demure nose of mandarin, early-picked apricot and resting bread dough. Creamy and tactile – strawberry ripeness and orange cream biscuit flavours married with fine bittersweet textures that make this oh so captivating. A freshness that runs the length, as the finish is drawn into a long chalky line. Superlative sparkling. Method traditional. Drink now–2034
South Australia 2024
17
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