The Reviews
Barratt Uley Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023
G 95
Flint and char notes ride high in the aromatics, and also take up a fair bit of room in the palate, though there’s excellent fruit in there as well. Classic stone fruit and quince. Reserve styling, good weight and structure. Classy wine. Drink now–2032 Basket Range Wine Estate Cabernet Blend Cabernet blend 2023 G 95 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot join here in a subtle yet immensely attractive ripe cassis and blue-black fruits focused wine, medium weighted with fine pepper and spice seasonings, an ensemble joy, as varietal tannins come into play at the exit, with a dash of gastronomical bitterness.
DAOSA Blanc de Blancs Sparkling 2020
G 96
All Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay from winemaker Xavier Bizot’s estate vineyards, settled first in old oak for seven months before tirage over 44 months. Serious business. An attractive glossy light gold, with pure Hills Chardonnay aromas, white nectarine, yellow-skinned grapefruit, reverbing in the palate with those citrus notes raising energy levels. Beautiful expression, even structures, spot on mousse, mouthwatering finish. Just the ticket for this leading exponent of the regional style. 12.9% alc Traditional method. Disgorged 9/24 Drink now–2034 Lobethal Road Roussanne Roussanne 2016 G 96 First note the vintage – 2016, and what that developed, aged white wine, mid- gold colour tells us, as well as what the nose offers out of the glass, rich, honeyed lime curd, cardamom – so attractive. The palate reverbs all of that, with lifeline acidity, almost chewy textural, lingering grapefruit-like flavours, mouth-filling and generous in all its personality. Augers well for more current vintages and their ageability.12.4% alc Drink now–2028 Tapanappa B&V Vineyard Syrah 2021 An Australian Syrah that actually lives up to the name, with a heart of bright spice, bursting in aromatic red and black berries and boasting a lightness of touch. How is this possible in a wine that is 14.9% alcohol? Well, for that answer look no further than the experienced hand of winemaker, Brian Croser, and his co-winemaker, Michael Symons. In 1992, the Symons family planted Syrah at Mount Barker because of its similarity to the soils of the Northern Rhône. For decades, the fruit was sold to Petaluma, but more recently small parcels were made available to Tapanappa. This is, according to Croser, a Distinguished Site, that is, it is super special. Arousing lifted scents of briar, bramble, wild black fruits, blueberry, earth, anise and spice. So on point in capturing a cool climate, aromatic, medium-bodied Syrah (aka Shiraz) that moves with energy and life bringing fruit and spice to the fore. Sage, pepper, allspice, anise, and a light floral injection sit comfortably amid the blackberry, red plums, and supple texture afforded by maturation in seasoned barriques. Warm in generosity off a terrific vintage year, flows easily, flows long. More please! Drink n ow–2031 Murdoch Hill Rocket Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 The first of the Rockets to plug entirely into the estate Lenswood Vineyard, which, from this, seems to have fine-tuned the white stone-fruit purity. The cooler ‘23 vintage may also be a factor. It’s delicate in its first steps, faint florals and citrus edging, though it gradually opens up with more overt Chardonnay character, a light nutty praline-like note appearing, minerality adding to the complexities that unfold. A proper star. 12.5% alc Drink now–2034 G 96
Elegant and delicately touched. 13% alc Drink now–2036 Deviation Road Altair (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Meunier) Rosé Sparkling NV
G 95
Light apricot rosé hue. A demure nose of mandarin, early-picked apricot and resting bread dough. Creamy and tactile – strawberry ripeness and orange cream biscuit flavours married with fine bittersweet textures that make this oh so captivating. A freshness that runs the length, as the finish is drawn into a long chalky line. Superlative sparkling. Method traditional. Drink now–2034 Deviation Road Loftia Sparkling 2021 G 95 An 80% Chardonnay/20% Pinot Noir cuvée with superb depth of aroma and already a complexing delicate autolysis appearing – exciting at this level. The fruit notes are in a grapefruit and roasted lemon spectrum, before faint sourdoughy and saline senses reveal. Deliciously refreshing with great flavour and defined mousse. 12.5% alc Traditional method Drink now–2030 Lloyd Brothers Estate Picpoul Picpoul 2024 G 95 Pale colour, citrus blossom and zest, purity in its singularity. Lovely settled flavours and texture, green apple, lemon juiciness all in synch, even at this young age, mouthwatering and salivating above all. Amazing that the flavours can be so clear even at such low abv. Delicious. 10.5% alc Drink now–2030 Murdoch Hill Orion Syrah Shiraz/Syrah 2022 G 95 An initial suggestion of blacksmith and flint, yet classy shiraz fruit shines more than anything, especially as it hits the palate, spot-on ripeness with some skins and stem elements in play, juicy and subtle spiced savouries adding plenty of underlying complexity and interest. Respect. Drink now–2032
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
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