Knappstein Malbec 2022
Skillogalee Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 91
G 91
This Malbec is a vinous joy, bursting with wild raspberries, blackberries and blue violets, to name a few. The sweet spices from oak are gentle and complement the glowing fruit profile. The palate is coiled, with vibrant, coloured shades and puckering, persistent tannins. Drink now–2030 Knappstein Riesling 2024 G 91 Plenty of Clare Valley Riesling zing on display in a wine that is well composed and ready to be enjoyed right now. Lemons and limes, some spiced green apples and floral bath salts light up the scent. Crisp and fast paced on the palate with mouth- watering acidity to boot. Good pinpoint citrus intensity to carry it forward and age too. It meets price expectations and then some. Drink now–2030 Koonowla The Tiller Shiraz 2021 G 91 Has instant appeal written all over it, from the glistening purple hues to the warm embrace of ripe dark berries, toasted spice and chocolatey oak. Vivacious and flavoursome, lavished with some rather smart oak to match the blackberry, cassis, mulberry fruits and spice overladen with a gentle, peppery edge. The palate is laid out on long, focused tannins – which get the tastebuds working – before finishing well balanced and even. Drink now–2033 Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2024 G 91 A pure, crystalline nose, like morning dew. Crushed rocks, pure citrus power, the acid line is electricity like a bolt. This is a pristine example with plenty of potential and a way to go. Drink 2025–2035 Pauletts Clare Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 91 An intriguing wine, regionally strong at heart in eucalypt, acacia and Aussie bush notes but with a solid cabernet fruit intensity to back it up. Neither dominates or is out of place but, together, they are very Clare. Black plum, loganberry and black fruits and cacao team with bush mint, jalapeño, stems and dried herbs, launching a solid flavour attack while firmly aligned to fine, lithe tannins. Boasts plenty upfront Clare Cabernet charm. Drink now–2034 Pikes The Dogwalk Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 91 Slips comfortably into relaxed mode where the fruit is fleshy, the tannins are supple – as supple as Cabernet tannins can be – and there’s an air of gentle savouriness for added interest. It adds up to one well priced, approachable and most enjoyable young Cabernet. Black cherry, cassis, earth, aniseed, mint and dried herbs join forces with earthy, savoury tannins freshened nicely by bright acidity and finishing long and pure. Drink now or age in the short term – both are possible. Drink now–2028
Luxurious cedary wood, rolled tobacco leaves, eucalyptus, dried blackberries, and dark chocolate notes. Velvety tannins and juicy acidity make this wine a thirst quencher and an excellent introduction for Cabernet novices. Drink now–2030 Sussex Squire The Hungry Sheep Mataro 2022 G 91 The grape was long known in the Clare Valley as mataro before its alternate, sexier French moniker, mourvèdre, dominated wine labels. So, here’s to mataro, and here’s to a wine that celebrates all of the grape’s natural deep colour, spice and black- berried oomph. It’s one tidy and mighty tasty wine with almost an old school, laid-back ease. Nothing is rushed as the wine slowly unfurls in plum, blackberry, oregano spice, sage and lifted aromatic violet florals. There’s a lick of woodsy oak with a good depth of supple yet dense tannins towards the finish. There’s also some cellaring potential. Drink now–2032 Crabtree Pomona Riesling 2024 G 90 Plenty of bright, lemony zestiness on show in this youngster sourced from the Watervale sub-region. It’s got some non-stop energy flowing through its vinous soul assisted by juicy, filigree-fine acidity, that just keeps on going. On the delicate side in its florals – apple blossom, jasmine, white pepper – and featuring some serious citrus and lime intensity as it moves, almost bounces, across the palate. In youth, it makes for perfect solo drinking enjoyment. With some time under its belt, it’s going to be super with seafood. A fine, well-priced Watervale ambassador. Drink now–2029 Crabtree Watervale Semillon 2024 G 90 Semillon remains a bit of an outlier in the Clare Valley, but it can and does shine in the hands of a producer who cares. Plenty of waxy citrus fruit, lemon barley, acacia on the nose with pear and apple. Well composed in the old school style of Semillon, which starts with just-ripe fruit lower in alcohol and higher in acid with a flinty, almost chalky edge. It helps drive the wine. Brings a touch of the exotic on the middle palate with lime cordial flavours mixing with earthy ginger, lemon balm and a warm, developing texture. Focused and restrained. Drink now–2030 Crabtree RC Shiraz Cabernet 2022 G 90 Ripe, sweet fruited and already approachable in a distinctly Watervale way. A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet, this interpretation of the great Aussie red is all about natural elegance. Black plum, black berries, aniseed and a world of spice with a layer of vanillin oak open up to the drinker, hand in hand with a fleshy texture managed by fine but firm tannins. And RC? It stands for Richard Cane, father of the proprietor and an important supporter of Crabtree. Drink now–2028
192
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
193
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