SA Wine Guide 2025

Sussex Squire The Partnership Shiraz Mataro 2022

G 92

A GSM minus the G and it’s a mighty flavoursome twosome in brambly, ripe berry fruits with liquorice, star anise, sage and cocoa. The palate is taut, sturdy in structure and dry with a rising pepperiness backed by savoury undertones. Good for extra time in the cellar. Drink now–2030 Wines by KT Pinot Gris 2023 G 92 There is a touch of seaweed to start and a piquant note of wasabi, which adds an interesting aspect to the usual style. Then there is green mango, chamomile flower, and lemon verbena. The palate is textural yet juicy, offering an equilibrated drinkability. Drink now–2028 Bourke & Travers Polish Hill River Riesling 2024 G 91 Brings classic Polish Hill River qualities to the glass, notably fine and lifted floral aromatics. They are ever present from the first sniff to the lingering finish. Jasmine tea, lime leaf, kaffir lime, green apple merge with a strong concentrated lime presence. Well-structured with layers of lime and citrus pith enhanced by a lively, briny acidity. Hits above its price point. Drink now–2030 Byrne Vineyards Calcannia Grenache 2024 G 91 Honest, upfront grenache that openly celebrates the grape’s bright red fruits – cherry, raspberry, maraschino cherry – in an almost unadorned state. It’s juicy and pure and openly expressive. Oak is sympathetic, nicely integrated, with toasty oak spice smoothly assisted by supple tannins working hard in the background and elevating the red berry fruits. Impressive drink now appeal. Drink now–2030 Kilikanoon Small Batch Rosé 2024 G 91 Lively confection pink hues introduce an equally lively youngster that lives true to the Small Batch philosophy which is to ‘push the boundaries’. Less obviously fruity and juicy, more restrained and grippy, with plenty of acid kick. It’s a treat for the tastebuds, a scintillatingly brisk tingly sensation in wild raspberry with cranberry bite, sour cherry and pressed flowers. The lemony, almost abrasive acidity and grip is levelled out by a gentle textural smoothness providing both tension and the base for a food-friendly match which is definitely called for. Drink now–2027 Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Riesling 2024 G 91 A typically fragrant Clare Riesling just itching to be opened and enjoyed. Everything is in waiting from the undulating scents of classic lime and bath salts, grapefruit and jasmine, to a palate brimming in citrus flavour with concentrated lime and grapefruit pith. A chalky, dry texture and crisp, juicy finish gets the tastebuds working overtime and the effect is electric and super tasty. Drink now–2030

South Australia 2024

191

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