SA Wine Guide 2025

Mount Horrocks Cordon Cut Riesling 2024

Sussex Squire The Partnership Shiraz Mataro 2022

G 92

G 92

Cordon cut – vines cut when fruit is ripe, allowing the grapes to raisin and gain an intense sweetness – is not for the faint-hearted vigneron. Green-yellow bright hues. Lovely fragrant scent in white flowers, lemon drop, lime, lemon sorbet and musk. Combines crystalised fruit sweetness with a vivid acidity, so clean, as flavours build with an added layer of gentle spiciness. Fresh, delicate and silky sweet. Drink now–2029

A GSM minus the G and it’s a mighty flavoursome twosome in brambly, ripe berry fruits with liquorice, star anise, sage and cocoa. The palate is taut, sturdy in structure and dry with a rising pepperiness backed by savoury undertones. Good for extra time in the cellar. Drink now–2030 Wines by KT Pinot Gris 2023 G 92 There is a touch of seaweed to start and a piquant note of wasabi, which adds an interesting aspect to the usual style. Then there is green mango, chamomile flower, and lemon verbena. The palate is textural yet juicy, offering an equilibrated drinkability. Drink now–2028 Bourke & Travers Polish Hill River Riesling 2024 G 91 Brings classic Polish Hill River qualities to the glass, notably fine and lifted floral aromatics. They are ever present from the first sniff to the lingering finish. Jasmine tea, lime leaf, kaffir lime, green apple merge with a strong concentrated lime presence. Well-structured with layers of lime and citrus pith enhanced by a lively, briny acidity. Hits above its price point. Drink now–2030 Byrne Vineyards Calcannia Grenache 2024 G 91 Honest, upfront grenache that openly celebrates the grape’s bright red fruits – cherry, raspberry, maraschino cherry – in an almost unadorned state. It’s juicy and pure and openly expressive. Oak is sympathetic, nicely integrated, with toasty oak spice smoothly assisted by supple tannins working hard in the background and elevating the red berry fruits. Impressive drink now appeal. Drink now–2030 Kilikanoon Small Batch Rosé 2024 G 91 Lively confection pink hues introduce an equally lively youngster that lives true to the Small Batch philosophy which is to ‘push the boundaries’. Less obviously fruity and juicy, more restrained and grippy, with plenty of acid kick. It’s a treat for the tastebuds, a scintillatingly brisk tingly sensation in wild raspberry with cranberry bite, sour cherry and pressed flowers. The lemony, almost abrasive acidity and grip is levelled out by a gentle textural smoothness providing both tension and the base for a food-friendly match which is definitely called for. Drink now–2027 Kilikanoon Killerman’s Run Riesling 2024 G 91 A typically fragrant Clare Riesling just itching to be opened and enjoyed. Everything is in waiting from the undulating scents of classic lime and bath salts, grapefruit and jasmine, to a palate brimming in citrus flavour with concentrated lime and grapefruit pith. A chalky, dry texture and crisp, juicy finish gets the tastebuds working overtime and the effect is electric and super tasty. Drink now–2030

Pikes Il Premio Sangiovese 2022

G 92

Not your usual sweet-fruited Aussie charmer but considerably more serious in style, where sour cherry, bitter almond notes and an astringent dryness bring a little more Italian-like styling to the grape. So, too, its ability – its need – to be enjoyed with food. Sour cherry, red cherry, marjoram, thyme, pepper and an earthy leafiness. Acidity is keen, tannins are savoury, and the fruit remains enhanced by almond skin bitterness, and that’s where a little more time comes into the picture. It would love some. Drink now–2032 Pikes The E.W.P. Shiraz 2022 G 92 A tightly coiled youngster, fine featured and restrained. Dusty briar and acacia notes are a grounding for black cherry, plum, blueberry and Dutch liquorice with gentle cedary oak. Medium weighted with a nice spicy element running free across the palate, E.W.P. is coated in fine, chalky tannins. Upright in structure and remains pretty tight – would love some more time in bottle. Drink now–2034 Skillogalee Riesling 2024 G 92 All the things citrus, Granny Smith apple, some talc, a touch of ginger, freshly cut grass and a mineral undertone. A pure, chiselled palate with focus, precision and extreme drinkability. It’s a giver. Drink now–2036 Skillogalee Basket Press Shiraz 2022 G 92 There is enough juicy meat on the bones of this wine, with its grilled bacon fat, white pepper, poised violet, spearmint, liquorice, milk chocolate, black cherry and plum fruit. A medium-bodied wine with enough oomph of flavours that will reward in

the short term. Drink now–2030 Sussex Squire Thomas Block Shiraz 2023

G 92

Packed with plum, forest fruits, spice, earth, dusty cacao and a lasting, memorable layer of Aussie bush scents and flavours culminating in a warm and familiar menthol, gum leafiness, the Thomas Block Shiraz is everything you want and expect from a Clare Valley Shiraz. It’s super friendly, approachable, doesn’t try too hard, but simply impresses with its effortless delivery of flavours and integrated oak. There’s plenty to like here. Drink now–2030

190

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

South Australia 2024

191

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