SA Wine Guide 2025

Crabtree Estate Riesling 2024

Kirrihill Partner Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

G 92

G 92

Sits deep purple-red in the glass and shows plenty of easy-going joie de vivre in delivery. Captures the grape nicely in a region well-suited to its considerable charms. Cassis, black fruits, herbs, chocolate and woodsy spice ooze gracefully across the palate. It’s a real charm offensive as the wine ramps up the fresh fruit brightness in line with a long tail of juicy flavour. Well-behaved vanillin oak and fine tannins aid delivery. Delicious. Grower partner: Sean Edwards. Drink now–2030 Kirrihill The Settler of Clare Watervale Riesling 2024 G 92 A fragrant, delicate, mineral-flecked wine exuding Watervale class. Becomes a celebration of lime juice, zest and cordial with lemon curd and a pinch of super fragrant bath salts, all of which are nicely meshed on a clean and taut palate. Shows strong linear-focused line and length through to the finish. A convincing wine in every respect. Effortless. Drink now–2034 Kirrihill The Squire of Clare Shiraz 2020 G 92 Will continue to build more depth with time, but for the moment it’s looking mighty attractive. Toasty, woodsy oak and the scent of black fruits and spice draws the immediate attention of the drinker, inviting closer inspection. It’s built along generous proportions, but it’s still pretty nimble, boasting a real inner energy in blue fruits, plum, black cherry, aniseed, nutmeg built on a wealth of pliable tannins. So easy to enjoy, too, both now and later. Drink now–2035 Koonowla Bass Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Carménère 2021 G 92 Old leather, sweet tobacco, mint chocolate, smoked bacon fat, maraschino cherry and prune. Fresh as a daisy on the palate, concentrated fruit profile and fine-grained tannins. It is a complete wine that is enjoyable now and will keep rewarding for more years. Drink now–2035 Mitchell Clare Valley Pinot Gris 2023 G 92 On paper, a region that excels in Riesling should equally, by all rights, do pretty well at Pinot Gris. Clare Valley certainly fits the former category and, increasingly, the latter. Mitchell explores the grape’s aromatics, bright honeysuckle notes, together with its core varietal strengths of apple, pear and citrus. A sprinkle of spice over the top brings added Gris depth. Texture is offset by a bright acidity, a real lemon fruit tingle zing. It makes for one mighty enjoyable drink. Drink now–2027

With a number of Watervale Rieslings made each vintage, Crabtree brings something different to each. The Estate offers a more serious face with more grip, tension and an unnervingly delectable essence of lime. Lifted florals float from the glass in honeysuckle, citrus blossom, dusty lemon and classic bath salts with citrus. It’s bright, tangy and crisp to taste with an emerging chalky textural presence. Lime, grapefruit and green apple take hold of the flavour profile with some grip to close. Mouth-watering acidity brings a refreshing crispness. Drink now–2030 Crabtree Watervale Rosé 2024 G 92 The palest of confection pinks, a stain of pink, colours this attractive Grenache Rosé. Gentle florals mix with raspberry, strawberry, hibiscus and light musky confection scents – very inviting. Tangy fruit appeal but definitely toned down, almost a whisper, against a strong, assertive structure. Has the ability to get under your skin big time. And so versatile. Drink now–2028

Hesketh Wines Watervale Riesling (Tank Sample) 2024

G 92

Tahitian lime, yuzu, honeysuckle, orange blossom—an overtly aromatic nose for this wine just taken out of its vessel. It’s incredibly chiselled and tense on the palate, waiting to unfold all its attractive aromatics, too, giving away a glimpse of flavours only at the end. Drink 2025–2032 Jim Barry Assyrtiko 2024 G 92 A vibrant, citrussy-fresh blast of spring awaits in scents of apple blossom, apple, citrus with flecks of white pepper. A non-stop ride of citrus, apple and spice awaits, seriously concentrated and flinty, supported by an undercurrent of taut acidity. A light savoury layer supplies almond, lime zest and gentle spice notes. Plenty of zing and tang through to the finish. Drink now–2030 Kilikanoon Skilly Valley Pinot Gris 2024 G 92 Lifts the Gris game with a beautifully understated style. A barely-there colour mixes with Asian pear, acacia, lime cordial scents. Could be argued that it straddles the Grigio–Gris border with its 11.5% alcohol but, frankly, it doesn’t matter because either way this brings real class to the glass. Light in texture, citrussy bright in acidity, the palate opens fine and tightly controlled, running pure and clean in lime, apple, gentle herbals and a lovely, persistent thread of spiciness. A delicacy of touch throughout stamps this as a must try, and at that price, a must buy. Drink now– 2029

188

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

South Australia 2024

189

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