O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2024
G 95
So fine, so silky, so effortless in delivery with aromatics that define what Watervale Riesling is all about. Watervale can be perceived as quiet. It is, in fact, beautifully subtle, detailed in style. Aromas of lime, lemongrass, kaffir lime with just a touch of ginger nicely define the sub-regional – and regional – style. The palate boasts a long line of flavour, super intense in lime, with herbals, fennel and ginger. Texturally, it’s supple. Acidity-wise, it is lemony bright and the mainstay of the wine, but don’t read into this that it is hard-edged. It’s not. Great length makes the flavour last. This is a fully formed young Riesling, ready to fly. Drink now–2032 Pauletts 109 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 G 95 Impressive on a number of fronts. Captures a super smooth, stylish Cabernet still very much in its youth but with time definitely on its side; a most convincing argument for why Cabernet is rightly considered one of the big three varietal ambassadors of the Clare Valley. Rests on a firm foundation of blackberry fruit, herbs and voluminous silky, fine tannins with detailed violet, wild berries, liquorice, clove, mint, briar and baked earth in the complex mix. A discreet peppery layer adds that extra X factor, especially on the length. Drink now–2040 Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2017 G 95 Preserved lemon and apricot, beeswax, acacia honey, lanolin, and kerosene – yep, it’s an aged Riesling! The palate is toasty and textured, with the acidity still bouncing around like a toddler. A striking smoky aftertaste lingers. My head is spinning at the contemplation of intriguing food pairings. Drink now–2030 Pauletts 109 Reserve Riesling 2023 G 95 That distinctive jasmine, citrus, spice and white pepper scent, so Polish Hill River, so imposing. From a top year and immediately shows its class across a seamless palate: concentrated, beautifully structured, textured and long. Moves slowly, all the better to take in flavours that build, that explore a full spectrum of Riesling beauty in youth with an almost ridiculous depth of citrus – lemon curd, grapefruit, orange peel, lime zest – and spice and hints of fennel and ginger. Smooth as . . . that’s a wow! Drink now–2037 Pauletts ECKS Elodie Watervale Syrah 2023 G 95 So much spicy oomph to this wine which fully deserves its Syrah moniker. Some scintillating, cooler, spicier, red-fruited characters here coiled tightly around fast- moving acidity and savoury-edged tannins. It’s got energy to burn. Black cherry, bramble, cassis, peppercorn, sage, liquorice and a splash of regional mint dash across the palate, leaving a trail of spice in their wake. The winemaker had plenty of fun with this little beauty. Drink now–2033
South Australia 2024
179
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