Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2021
Pauletts 109 Reserve Shiraz 2020
G 96
G 96
Precision grape growing, winemaking and delivery in a great year fashions a memorable Armagh. Deepest purple hues. Alive and fragrant in plum, blue fruits, dark berries, juniper, earth, clove and vibrant vanillin oak. The palate is focused, fastidious in delivery, embracing firm tannins and glossy in dark fruits and spice with a touch of Italian leather and charry smoky background oak. A complex wine early in its long journey but, nevertheless, up for the challenge should you decide to open. Drink now–2044 Kilikanoon Mort’s 1973 Watervale Riesling 2024 G 96 There’s a power and concentration of fruit that is just so impressive. It acts as a distilled essence of both the grape, the Watervale sub-region, the fruit selection and the vintage, and it’s something you may wish to hold on to and age further. It definitely has longevity on its mind. From mature vines in the heart of the Clare Valley comes an intensity of lime, lime zest, lime cordial – everything lime! – with green apple bite and a well composed palate bolstered by some stirring, brisk acidity and an iron-like steeliness. It asks for nothing other than more time. Drink now–2038 Knappstein 1878 Transcendence Riesling 2024 G 96 With intent and (aromatic) intensity, this pristine Riesling shows all its glorious lime curry leaf, lemon peel, jasmine and crunchy green apple aromas. The palate is equally chiselled and pulpy, phenolic and total. It indeed transcends my expectations. Drink now–2048 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Armagh Shiraz 2022 G 96 What a glorious expression of Clare Valley Shiraz. It’s a wine that speaks of the land and the soil, of Aussie bush notes and earth, of bramble, blackcurrant, black cherry, peppercorns, liquorice, sage and warm clove oak. And that’s just the wealth of aromas that explode in the glass after pouring. Boasts plenty of class all round, naturally fine featured, well integrated. The 14.5% alcohol might suggest a high degree of richness and weight, but it’s deceptive. The Shiraz remains well within medium-bodied territory in red plums, black cherry, bush notes and earth boasting an overall fineness. Tannin management, I would suggest, is the key here, bringing structure and suppleness. The result is a perfect balance. This can only be a plus as it ages . . . and it most certainly will age well. And look at that price! Outstanding value here. Drink now–2032
Celebrating his long winemaking career that started out as the 109th graduate winemaker from Roseworthy College in 1972, Neil Paulett shows his mastery of Clare Shiraz with a stunning, evocative wine. Fully deserves its Reserve status: concentrated, balanced, elegant and so beautifully expressive. Forest berries, earth, woodsy spices, aniseed, choc-mint and a touch of eucalypt mix with savoury elements, fine but firm tannins and some good, old-fashioned textural interplay to produce a lively regional star with considerable finesse. Finishes clean and long. Drink now–2038 Rieslingfreak No. 8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer Riesling 2024 G 96 With a delicately aromatic nose, everything appears like it is about to rise, like the sun behind the horizon. And on the palate, here it is, the sun! The residual sugar flows with the acidity cascade, masterfully driving the stream. You just wonder what happened and here you are, having another glass. It just works, as the synchronised movement of professional swimmers. Drink now–2036 Rieslingfreak No. 50 Riesling 2024 G 96 A wine of significance made to celebrate the winemaker John Hughes’ 50th birthday. The result is a tour de force, a very personal homage to the grape Hughes loves above all others. There’s a purity of fruit that goes beyond the complexities of citrus – impressive as they are – and ventures into the exotic, almost Asian in some scents and flavours and savoury in others. It’s a fascinating chameleon. White flowers, almond blossom, kaffir lime, lemon myrtle, basil, white pepper, grapefruit pith produce a focused Riesling of layers, incredible detail and drive. Tied brightly together by a pithy, chalky texture and juicy acidity in its youth, it is a mighty accomplishment to be able to enjoy early. But, rest assured, this wine will age. Drink now–2037 Taylors The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 G 96 Clare Cabernet Sauvignon is in its happy place in this meeting of a top year, quality fruit, and sensitive winemaking that allows all to shine beautifully. Offers a glimpse into just how good Cabernet can be in the region, producing a seamless, enduring and elegant little gem. The wine flows in blackberries, dark plum, earth, pencil lead and baking spices. It’s complete, approachable now and yet there is just enough to keep you wondering, such are the depths to be explored. Fine, lithe tannins continue to work well, producing a freshness and vitality. Has plenty of good years ahead of it. Drink now–2040
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
175
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