Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2021
G 96
Precision grape growing, winemaking and delivery in a great year fashions a memorable Armagh. Deepest purple hues. Alive and fragrant in plum, blue fruits, dark berries, juniper, earth, clove and vibrant vanillin oak. The palate is focused, fastidious in delivery, embracing firm tannins and glossy in dark fruits and spice with a touch of Italian leather and charry smoky background oak. A complex wine early in its long journey but, nevertheless, up for the challenge should you decide to open. Drink now–2044 Kilikanoon Mort’s 1973 Watervale Riesling 2024 G 96 There’s a power and concentration of fruit that is just so impressive. It acts as a distilled essence of both the grape, the Watervale sub-region, the fruit selection and the vintage, and it’s something you may wish to hold on to and age further. It definitely has longevity on its mind. From mature vines in the heart of the Clare Valley comes an intensity of lime, lime zest, lime cordial – everything lime! – with green apple bite and a well composed palate bolstered by some stirring, brisk acidity and an iron-like steeliness. It asks for nothing other than more time. Drink now–2038 Knappstein 1878 Transcendence Riesling 2024 G 96 With intent and (aromatic) intensity, this pristine Riesling shows all its glorious lime curry leaf, lemon peel, jasmine and crunchy green apple aromas. The palate is equally chiselled and pulpy, phenolic and total. It indeed transcends my expectations. Drink now–2048 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Armagh Shiraz 2022 G 96 What a glorious expression of Clare Valley Shiraz. It’s a wine that speaks of the land and the soil, of Aussie bush notes and earth, of bramble, blackcurrant, black cherry, peppercorns, liquorice, sage and warm clove oak. And that’s just the wealth of aromas that explode in the glass after pouring. Boasts plenty of class all round, naturally fine featured, well integrated. The 14.5% alcohol might suggest a high degree of richness and weight, but it’s deceptive. The Shiraz remains well within medium-bodied territory in red plums, black cherry, bush notes and earth boasting an overall fineness. Tannin management, I would suggest, is the key here, bringing structure and suppleness. The result is a perfect balance. This can only be a plus as it ages . . . and it most certainly will age well. And look at that price! Outstanding value here. Drink now–2032
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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