Still, one of the biggest hurdles to climb for Clare Riesling makers is sweetness. ‘One of our challenges as a region is continuing to educate consumers around the misconception that rieslings are overly sweet,’ explains Jason Crane at Crabtree Wines. ‘Clare Valley Riesling, especially from Watervale and Polish Hill, is known for its balance and precision,’ he stresses. Shiraz from Clare has traditionally been touted as full of flavour, character and strength. It is not shy. What it can be and what some producers are exploring, is a Shiraz more medium bodied in flavours that can be described as ‘savoury’ or ‘elegant’, or ‘softer’ and ‘juicier.’ Many are now produced to be more approachable at a younger age. Then there’s the question of oak: less is often better, and the more aggressive qualities of American oak are gradually giving way to the finer influence of French. When it comes to Shiraz, the ‘Focus is on delivering primary fruit character that shows its regionality,’ explains Nick Walker, of O’Leary Walker. We note some producers choose ‘Syrah’ over Shiraz in order to presumably endow the wine with a more expressive, cooler climate attitude. Sometimes, that is borne out in the glass. The higher altitude ridges of the Valley, which can reach up to 465 metres above sea level, offer some distinctive styles. Behind Shiraz in total tonnes crushed each vintage is Cabernet Sauvignon, which continues to be a major focus for Clare producers. However, climate change is signalling some minor adjustments. ‘Climate change has certainly influenced the way we approach our signature varieties,’ notes Kurt Larson, hospitality manager at Tim Adams and Mr Mick Wines. ‘Drier winters and warmer growing seasons have led to earlier ripening, impacting acidity and alcohol levels.’ He adds, ‘Whilst the traditional varieties still retain their regional footprint, we’ve had to adjust our vineyard practices, such as the timing of harvest.’ Maximising the grape’s naturally elegant expression while at the same time not losing structure or varietal flavour integrity (and avoiding looking like sweet- fruited Shiraz) continues to be a goal for Clare winemakers. Taylor’s shines the brightest and most ambitious light on the grape, producing a $1000-a-bottle aged release, The Legacy. New rising stars? Well, the jury is still out, but there is a range of definite contenders. Grenache, which has previously been joined by Shiraz and Mataro/Mourvèdre in
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