Saltram Mr Pickwick’s Particular Tawny NV
G 92
A famous old Tawny style, which has provided great pleasure to many, many wine lovers over decades. This latest incarnation will continue to do exactly that. There is some obvious old material here. The style is rather decadent, with a clean, non- cloying and lengthy finish. The average age of the material here is over 21 years. The colour is an alluring old burnished bronze. There are lovely old rancio notes here, dried fruits, walnuts and raisins and delicious fruitcake. Medium length and neatly balanced, this is clean and full of life. Good complexity, plenty of sweetness but a fine and bright finish. Drink now–2040 Saltram Winemaker’s Selection Fiano 2024 G 92 Perhaps the most promising of the emerging grapes on the vinous landscape, Fiano seems to have taken to some of our warmer regions, not least the Barossa, with the same robust gusto that we see with it in Mediterranean climes. These grapes hail from a single vineyard at the southern end of the region, around Lyndoch. A slight pale yellow hue, the nose is dominated by attractive notes of stone fruits, notably peaches, and wet stones, supported by citrus and florals and river pebbles. There is even a touch of the tropicals. This is a savoury style with a supple and seductive texture. There is some generosity of flavour and decent length. This is a very fine example of a local Fiano and will drink well for at least the next two to four years. Drink now–2028 Sourced from a trio of Barossa vineyards – Workshop, Angus Brae and Three Springs, which were planted in 1993, 1986, and 1926 respectively – this is maroon black in colour. Quite densely extracted, there are aromas of chocolate, animal hides, mocha, coffee grinds and warm earth, with some oak evident but well integrated. Powerful, coiled, concentrated and muscular, there are firm tannins here, fine acidity and very good length in a well-structured wine which will provide pleasure for eight to 10 years. Drink now–2034 Schild Estate Edgar Schild Grenache 2022 G 92 Schild Estate Shiraz 2022 G 92 A pale red/crimson colour here for this fine Barossa Grenache. This is very much typical for what one would hope from a good example of this variety when grown in the Barossa, especially when old vines dominate. The nose gives us red fruits, hints of animal fur and strawberries to the fore. It has that soft sandy and silky tannin thing going on. There is focus, energy, balance and good length, fine linear acidity and a lingering finish. For enjoying over the next four to six years. Drink now–2030 Schubert Estate The Gosling Shiraz 2018 G 92 Deep crimson. Black cherry, dark chocolate aromas with walnutty notes. Richly flavoured with abundant dark and red berry fruits, attractive inky density and persistent chocolaty tannins. Walnutty notes at the finish. 14.5% alc Drink now–2028
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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