SA Wine Guide 2025

Head Wines Les Blancs White Blend 2023

G 93

The story behind this wine makes it worth chasing for that alone. Forty old bush vines on the banks of the Para River, abandoned as unloved and unwanted. Alex Head knew what a treasure he had stumbled upon and now makes this wine from those white vines. With no additions and ageing on lees for nine months. Alex has ascertained that they were planted in 1953 from cuttings from Greenock and called White Grenache. They were then renamed as ‘possibly Biancone’. Alex has done the DNA testing, but is keeping that under wraps. In 2023, they made their first barrel from the vines. The future? Well, it has been such a fascinating journey so far, would anyone dare speculate where it might lead? This wine also has some Savagnin (30%), Viognier (15%) and Vermentino (5%) blended in with it. Just 100 cases made. A yellow/gold colour, the nose is redolent of nuts and stone fruits, notably peach skins and almonds. Savory and textural with terrific length, this is very much in the more-ish mould. A wine which does demand food. Four to six years should see it doing interesting things. Drink now–2030 Head Wines Red Grenache 2023 G 93 This is a new addition to the HEAD RED range, hailing from four discrete old Barossa vineyards, from Bethany, Krondorf, Nuriootpa and Ebenezer. 5% whole bunches are used in production and there is a dollop (dollop being the technical term for 3%) of Mataro included. The oldest of the vineyards dates back to 1942 and 5% whole bunches are part of the winemaking regime. Alex recommends a light chill. Certainly, it wouldn’t hurt. An attractive crimson colour here, the nose is classic Grenache, with spices and herbs and red fruits, strawberries and redcurrants. There is also a touch of aniseed, leather and warm earth. The wine is fresh, still very youthful, well balanced with silty tannins and juicy acidity and a very persistent finish. Will drink well over the next six to eight years. Drink now–2032 Head Wines Riesling 2023 G 93 From vines over six decades in age, a vineyard planted on Mengler’s Hill in 1960, the wine went through a full malolactic fermentation on lees in both oak and stainless steel – not typical Aussie Riesling treatment, but it gives flavour and texture, providing an extra dimension. Quite a deep straw hue here, with lemon sherbet notes immediately evident on the nose. Spices and florals and a flick of unobtrusive pineapple, this is gorgeously aromatic. A supple texture with the acidity running the length, to a lingering finish, the palate still has hints of that attractive pineapple along with grapefruit pith. More textural than most Aussie Rieslings, this will provide delicious drinking for at least six to 10 years. Drink now–2034

South Australia 2024

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