Elderton Wines Ashmead Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 94
Medium-deep crimson. Blackcurrant hint dark chocolate aromas with mocha notes. Fresh pure cassis, blackberry fruits, some cola/touch leafy notes. Lovely mocha/ vanilla nuances and plentiful fine-grained tannins. Builds up firm at the finish. 14.9% alc Drink now–2030 Eisenstone Hoffmann DV Ebenezer SV902 Shiraz 2022 G 94 The Hoffman family are well known and highly regarded growers in the Barossa region and the Dallwitz Block, planted between 1888 and 1912 in their Dimchurch Vineyard (hence, DV) at Ebenezer, has provided the majority of fruit for this gem. This is supported by fruit from some ‘younger’ rows planted around 70 years ago. Maturation was in French oak for 20 months, half of it new. 2400 bottles. The colour here is blood red/maroon, while the nose exhibits notes of black fruits, dusty earth, chocolate, bay leaves, black cherries, mocha, blueberries and coffee grounds. A supple texture with a seamless structure, there is bright acidity evident, but everything is finely balanced and the wine has really good length, with fine but firm tannins tying it all together. The power of the fruit makes the oak seem all but invisible. This is a superb Barossa Shiraz with at least eight to 10 years in the bank, probably longer. Drink now–2034 Eisenstone Koonunga SR807 Shiraz 2022 G 94 From the Becker Vineyard in the Koonunga sub-region, which was recently purchased by the Hoffman family, the wine spent a year and a half maturing in French oak, half of it new. 2000 bottles. An opaque maroon hue, the nose reveals smoked meats, chocolate, cloves, earthy touches and a charry barbecue character. This is no shrinking violet and while there is oak, integration is immaculate. The wine is very young and concentrated, but it is beautifully supple, well balanced, with vibrant acidity and serious intensity throughout. There are fine, ever-so-slightly grainy tannins on the finish, and excellent length. The palate sees the emergence of mocha, violets and cocoa powder. A 12- to 15-year proposition. Drink now–2039 Eisenstone Becker Koonunga SV907 Shiraz 2022 G 94 No one knows how old the vines are in this vineyard in the Koonunga sub-region of the Barossa, previously owned by the Becker family but more recently purchased by the Hoffmanns, but best estimates are that they sit between 70 and 80 years. The wine spends 20 months in French oak for maturation, half of it new. 3200 bottles. The colour is a weave of opaque purple and navy blue. The nose is redolent of blackberries, liquorice, soy, cloves, mocha and chocolate. This is young, of course, but there is real intensity, well integrated oak, fine balance, supporting satiny tannins and bright acidity. A wine of concentration, force and drive, which should appeal for at least the next 10 to 12 years. Drink now–2036
South Australia 2024
101
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