December is here and it is time to track down wines for the Festive Season. To help guide your wines choices, the Winepilot team have put together our inaugural SA Wine Guide 2025, which has been launched just in time for Christmas to provide a definitive guide to the wine state that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions written by our team of leading wine commentators. This guide proudly puts every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify not only the leading local wines but also highlight unique regional stories which are often hidden from view.
SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE
VINTAGE JOURNAL
Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale
SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024
2025
CONTENTS Introduction
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Angus Hughson
The Authors Adelaide Hills
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Tony Love and Tijana Laganin Barossa Ken Gargett, Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, and Andrea Pritzker MW Clare Valley Jeni Port and Lisa Cardelli Coonawarra and Wrattonbully Angus Hughson and Andrew Caillard MW Kangaroo Island
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Tony Love Langhorne Creek
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Tom Kline Limestone Coast (Mount Benson & Padthaway) and Riverland
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Tom Kline M c Laren Vale
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Shanteh Wale Boutique Wine Awards:
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South Australian Medal and Trophy Winners Ross Anderson
McLaren Vale, Kangaroo in the vines. Depositphoto, K. West
INTRODUCTION
BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
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score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
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Andrew Caillard MW Andrew Caillard MW is the author of numerous books, including Penfolds: The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra and A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal). Andrew has also most recently written The Australian Ark , a definitive history of Australian wine, published in 2024, which has won local and international awards, including the inaugural OIV President’s Award and individually he received the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year 2024. Andrew was also recently announced as winner of the 2025 IWSC Wine Communicator Trophy. Lisa Cardelli Lisa Cardelli is an Italian-born wine professional based in Melbourne since 2010. She was a sommelier for over 10 years in some of Melbourne’s best fine-dining restaurants. Lisa is a certified WSET Educator and teacher at Prince Wine Store and Wine House. She judges at local wine shows, is a member of the wine selection panel for Qantas/Neil Perry, and a judge for Australia’s Wine List of the Year Awards. Lisa is the recipient of the 2022 Wine Communicators of Australia Best Published Feature Article Award, won the 2022 Sydney Royal Wine Professional Development Scholarship, and was a Len Evans Scholar in 2024. Ken Gargett Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland, before a fishing break on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail and the prestigious international wine magazine The World of Fine Wine . Angus Hughson Angus is an award-winning wine writer and publisher with over 15 years of publishing, writing and wine judging experience. He is the founder and publisher of Winepilot and The Vintage Journal , Australian Editor for leading international publication VINOUS with Antonio Galloni based in New York City, and the co- publisher of the award-winning grand opus The Australian Ark , by Andrew Caillard.
THE AUTHORS
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Tom Kline Tom Kline is a Victoria-based wine writer, reviewer, presenter, and educator. He is the Australian contributor for Jasper Morris’s Inside Burgundy and also contributes to the likes of Decanter Magazine (UK), Wine Spectator (US), and Halliday Magazine , to name a few. Tom is a wine show judge, a WSET educator, and an author of consumer- facing wine courses. In 2023, Tom was announced as the winner of the ‘Best Published Feature Article or Wine Column’ at the prestigious Wine Communicator Awards. Tijana Laganin Tijana is on a mission to take the intimidation out of wine. With a background in sales and marketing, Tijana furthered her studies to complete WSET Levels 2 and 3 and has recently been on the editorial team for The Australian Ark . An advocate for Chardonnay, she plans to break the ABC (Anything but Chardonnay) stigma. If sentenced to death, her last meal would be freshly baked bread and salted butter paired with a glass of the best wine in the world – Chardonnay, of course. Tony Love Tony is best known for his 10 years as News Corp’s National Wine Writer, with weekly columns in major metropolitan mastheads throughout Australia, including The Adelaide Advertiser , The Sydney Daily Telegraph and the Melbourne Herald Sun . He continues to write feature articles and columns for all the major Australian wine media publications. Tony has also worked as a restaurant reviewer, section editor, book editor, digital content provider, journalism teacher and was named Wine Communicators of Australia 2018 Legend of the Vine (SA). Jeni Port Jeni Port is one of Australia’s top wine communicators and judges. Based in Melbourne, Jeni was the longest-serving wine writer on The Age newspaper and has contributed to most Australian wine magazines, including Winestate , Wine Selector , Halliday Wine Companion magazine, Gourmet Traveller WINE , Winning , and Il Tridente .
Andrea Pritzker MW Andrea Pritzker MW is the founder of Wine inTuition and a writer for The Vintage Journal . She became a Master of Wine in 2015 and is a sought-after corporate speaker, WSET wine educator and wine show judge. She began her wine career in Canada before moving to Europe, attaining a diploma in Wine & Spirits Commerce, in Bordeaux. Since moving to Australia in 2003, Andrea’s career has spanned all aspects of the commercial wine trade, including roles in wholesale, retail, fine wine auction and as a wine buyer for Qantas epiQure (now Qantas Wine). She has judged at numerous wine shows, both in Australia and overseas, is the co-coordinator of the MW Australasian Wine Education programme and was Dux of the Len Evans Tutorial in 2022. Shanteh Wale Shanteh cut her teeth at Sydney’s award-winning Quay restaurant, where she worked for over a decade and was Head Sommelier from 2018 to 2022. She was nominated for the Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year award on three occasions and claims that her experience as a Len Evans scholar is one of the highlights of her career. Shanteh hosts her own weekly podcast, ‘Over A Glass’, with the Deep in the Weeds Network and spends her time writing for various publications, including as a member of the Halliday Wine Companion Tasting Panel, and judging at numerous wine shows across the country.
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ADELAIDE HILLS
Adelaide Hills. Photo: John Kruger
ADELAIDE HILLS SUMMARY TONY LOVE REVIEWS TONY LOVE AND TIJANA LAGANIN
now known as Tapanappa; and Lenswood, where the likes of Geoff Weaver, Tim Knappstein, and the Henschke family planted their Hills vineyards in the early 1980s. Since then, these two districts have established enviable reputations as sources of the finest quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fruit for elite table and traditional method Sparkling wines. As their star quality rose to prominence, the more immediately popular Sauvignon Blanc also raised the public profile of the Hills. In the past decade, Pinot Grigio/Gris has assumed an almost equal role as a favourite white companion. Over the short history of the region, which in many ways has released it from more traditional wine industry anchors, there also has emerged a progressive and experimental mindset encouraging the propagation of what once were called ‘alternative’ or ‘emerging’ varieties but now are an accepted part of the Hills’ dynamic multiculturism.
The beauty of the Adelaide Hills is about its breath-taking landscapes. Its valleys and high points. Around its forever-winding roads are views that drag you into a lingering reverie. Its long vision and close-up focus. Its florid autumn colours, wintry mists, and spring and summer verdancy. And, in every season, its relaxing breaths of fresh, enlivening air. As you crisscross the region, in seemingly every corner there is now a vineyard amongst the old orchards, dotting the old dairy land or dressing steeply angled slopes. Everything about the region comes in plurals. It is so long – a crazy 75km – that within it are multiple variations on the Hills theme: from scary drop zones to epic rolling country spilling out from its eminent central western pinpoint, Mt Lofty. In the northern reaches it touches the southern Barossa. In the southwestern corner, it could easily be called McLaren Vale Heights. While considered in Australian wine classifications as generally cool climate, the temperature nuances are enough to define sectors of the region as more prized for grapes that revel and ripen in colder sites, such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Noir. Conversely, warmer settings at the extremities are suited to varieties like Shiraz, which can still show off their cooler climate personalities. Such differences in growing conditions: sunshine hours during the growing season, altitudes and orientations of vineyards from slope to gully, north, south, east and west, and all the elements of mesoclimate variation are key to understanding the complexity of the Adelaide Hills wine region. Even within the same varietal classes, the wide diversity of site influences means it is often pointless to tie down generalist character and style guides to the wines of the Hills. In many ways, it is a region where terroir has triumphed. And hand in hand with that, where winemaking individualism has prospered. Add to this the unusual scenario of the greater geographical indicator (GI) region containing within it two smaller official GI regions: Piccadilly Valley, where the modern era of Hills winemaking began in the late 1970s with the arrival of Brian Croser and his Chardonnay vineyard and accompanying original Petaluma winery,
Adelaide Hills. Photo: John Kruger
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The welcoming of tempranillo came early. The immigration of Italian and Iberian varieties, from nebbiolo to sangiovese, fiano, montepulciano, albarino, and many more. The extraordinary embrace of the famous Austrian white, Grüner Veltliner, due to the passion of Hahndorf Hill winery duo Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson. And the addition of gamay to join its compatriot pinot noir as a champion modern red of the region. These chapters in the timeline of the Hill’s wine story reveal much about the progressive personality of the region. Arguably, the most controversial of these episodes concerned the rise of the so-called ‘natural wine’ movement during the 2010s. For some, it might have been more appropriate to call the decade the ‘ten- sions’, though the excitement generated by that younger troupe of ultra-idealistic yet often unscientific winemakers greatly enhanced the region’s profile with a new era of wine consumers. All these disparate elements come into play in this guide. More than 300 wines were submitted, close to half the number of wines entered in the official Adelaide Hills Wine Show to be judged soon after our own tastings. As a rough guide to the region’s focus, close to 60 Chardonnays were submitted, with the category of other whites next most represented at the bench with more than 30 wines from across the varietal range. Of the reds, both Pinot Noir and Shiraz were almost equal, with more than 40 wines in each class, and other reds, just behind that number. This tells us that the region is not necessarily hooked into just one or two hero wine ambassadors, even though Chardonnay, Sparklings and cool climate traditional reds are championed. It also confirms that the incredible site variation across the region allows for unrivalled dynamism regarding what can and can’t succeed. Even so, the climate and landscapes across the board enable a contemporary can-do attitude both for the wines they liberate and the community that produces them. Together, they encourage us to look and taste towards the bright side of life.
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The Reviews
Barratt Uley Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023
G 95
Flint and char notes ride high in the aromatics, and also take up a fair bit of room in the palate, though there’s excellent fruit in there as well. Classic stone fruit and quince. Reserve styling, good weight and structure. Classy wine. Drink now–2032 Basket Range Wine Estate Cabernet Blend Cabernet blend 2023 G 95 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% each of Merlot and Petit Verdot join here in a subtle yet immensely attractive ripe cassis and blue-black fruits focused wine, medium weighted with fine pepper and spice seasonings, an ensemble joy, as varietal tannins come into play at the exit, with a dash of gastronomical bitterness.
DAOSA Blanc de Blancs Sparkling 2020
G 96
All Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay from winemaker Xavier Bizot’s estate vineyards, settled first in old oak for seven months before tirage over 44 months. Serious business. An attractive glossy light gold, with pure Hills Chardonnay aromas, white nectarine, yellow-skinned grapefruit, reverbing in the palate with those citrus notes raising energy levels. Beautiful expression, even structures, spot on mousse, mouthwatering finish. Just the ticket for this leading exponent of the regional style. 12.9% alc Traditional method. Disgorged 9/24 Drink now–2034 Lobethal Road Roussanne Roussanne 2016 G 96 First note the vintage – 2016, and what that developed, aged white wine, mid- gold colour tells us, as well as what the nose offers out of the glass, rich, honeyed lime curd, cardamom – so attractive. The palate reverbs all of that, with lifeline acidity, almost chewy textural, lingering grapefruit-like flavours, mouth-filling and generous in all its personality. Augers well for more current vintages and their ageability.12.4% alc Drink now–2028 Tapanappa B&V Vineyard Syrah 2021 An Australian Syrah that actually lives up to the name, with a heart of bright spice, bursting in aromatic red and black berries and boasting a lightness of touch. How is this possible in a wine that is 14.9% alcohol? Well, for that answer look no further than the experienced hand of winemaker, Brian Croser, and his co-winemaker, Michael Symons. In 1992, the Symons family planted Syrah at Mount Barker because of its similarity to the soils of the Northern Rhône. For decades, the fruit was sold to Petaluma, but more recently small parcels were made available to Tapanappa. This is, according to Croser, a Distinguished Site, that is, it is super special. Arousing lifted scents of briar, bramble, wild black fruits, blueberry, earth, anise and spice. So on point in capturing a cool climate, aromatic, medium-bodied Syrah (aka Shiraz) that moves with energy and life bringing fruit and spice to the fore. Sage, pepper, allspice, anise, and a light floral injection sit comfortably amid the blackberry, red plums, and supple texture afforded by maturation in seasoned barriques. Warm in generosity off a terrific vintage year, flows easily, flows long. More please! Drink n ow–2031 Murdoch Hill Rocket Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 The first of the Rockets to plug entirely into the estate Lenswood Vineyard, which, from this, seems to have fine-tuned the white stone-fruit purity. The cooler ‘23 vintage may also be a factor. It’s delicate in its first steps, faint florals and citrus edging, though it gradually opens up with more overt Chardonnay character, a light nutty praline-like note appearing, minerality adding to the complexities that unfold. A proper star. 12.5% alc Drink now–2034 G 96
Elegant and delicately touched. 13% alc Drink now–2036 Deviation Road Altair (Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Meunier) Rosé Sparkling NV
G 95
Light apricot rosé hue. A demure nose of mandarin, early-picked apricot and resting bread dough. Creamy and tactile – strawberry ripeness and orange cream biscuit flavours married with fine bittersweet textures that make this oh so captivating. A freshness that runs the length, as the finish is drawn into a long chalky line. Superlative sparkling. Method traditional. Drink now–2034 Deviation Road Loftia Sparkling 2021 G 95 An 80% Chardonnay/20% Pinot Noir cuvée with superb depth of aroma and already a complexing delicate autolysis appearing – exciting at this level. The fruit notes are in a grapefruit and roasted lemon spectrum, before faint sourdoughy and saline senses reveal. Deliciously refreshing with great flavour and defined mousse. 12.5% alc Traditional method Drink now–2030 Lloyd Brothers Estate Picpoul Picpoul 2024 G 95 Pale colour, citrus blossom and zest, purity in its singularity. Lovely settled flavours and texture, green apple, lemon juiciness all in synch, even at this young age, mouthwatering and salivating above all. Amazing that the flavours can be so clear even at such low abv. Delicious. 10.5% alc Drink now–2030 Murdoch Hill Orion Syrah Shiraz/Syrah 2022 G 95 An initial suggestion of blacksmith and flint, yet classy shiraz fruit shines more than anything, especially as it hits the palate, spot-on ripeness with some skins and stem elements in play, juicy and subtle spiced savouries adding plenty of underlying complexity and interest. Respect. Drink now–2032
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Murdoch Hill The Phaeton Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023
Sidewood Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023
G 95
G 95
From the Lenswood and Piccadilly districts. Darker cherry notes, a walk in the forest, a light nod of cola and darker spices – just a pinch. All the Pinot elements come out to play, while a fairly serious palate structure awaits, tannins filling the mouth yet still allowing all the flavours to finish on top. 12.5% alc Drink now–2035 Petaluma ANOVA Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 95 A new top-shelf release of Petaluma Chardonnay, from a range of vineyards across the region. Immediate attractions of ripe stone fruit and quality oak, then a generous palate, typical of the house style, intense fruit with oaky char and flinted ferment characters, all whizzed into a fervour with high-energy lemon-like zing. A bit of a
A compilation of clones, and two Hills vineyards in this Sidewood regional/ varietal release, with elements that appear in each of the single clone wines – pretty fragrance, mid dark cherry notes, some herbal and spice threads, lively acidity and palate freshness with full flavour expression. 13% alc Drink now–2034 Sidewood Mappinga Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 95 One of three Sidewood Chardonnays, this arguably the more sophisticated and demure, yet with delicious personality. Fruit purity from the start, the nectarines and peaches white with a splash of lemon juice, a cooler vintage adding a bit more zing in the palate acidity accentuating the flavours and pushing out the finish with a fair bit of drive. Very smart. 13% alc Drink now–2034 Sidewood Owen’s Chardonnay Chardonnay 2022 G 95 Clearly a wine with a heap of winemaking around it. An all Mendoza clone iteration, wild whole bunch and barrel fermented in large format vessels, 35% new. The owner, Owen Inglis, barrel selects his choice. It’s rich with flint and sulphides, with fruit leaning to grapefruit. Oak plays a fairly big role throughout in this show- stopper style which has been widely rewarded across many Australian wine shows. 12.6% alc Drink now–2034 Sidewood Mappinga Shiraz 2021 Medium-deep crimson. A beautifully brooding nose; musky plum, blackberry, graphite shavings, mustard seeds with a blood orange and charry undertone. Superb fruit with poised vigour, cupped by sweet vanillin and charry oak. Lovely density and flow, the tannins kissing the edges. A wine of stature. Drink now–2032 Simon Tolley Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 95 Specified as a single vineyard, single clonal selection F4V6 which, if definitive, leads us into deeper aromatics, more savoury, saline, minerally, with the brambly herbs back in the distance. This all works in a more sophisticated style of Sauvignon to begin, then the punch of acidity kicks in, turbo charging the currant jubey palate, raising the energy stakes no end. Lovely drinking. 12.5% alc Drink now–2028 Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 95 From the Hills pioneer Chardonnay vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley, immediately a class above, lovely ripe white stone fruit aromas, subtle creaminess and flaked white nuts, everything deliciously balanced and edged with underlying citrussy acidity, chardonnay fruit magic vital to the end of the day. 12.9% alc Drink now–2034
show stopper. Drink now–2034 Protero Gumeracha Nebbiolo Nebbiolo 2022
G 95
Protero’s Gumeracha vineyard is a pioneering site for the prized Piedmonte variety in the Hills, with Steve Pannell, the winemaker, for much of its existence. The colour here is classically rubyesque, the nose displaying much of the variety’s savoury vibes, dried spice mix, subtle potpourri, a fleshiness as well, with a palate ripeness and familiar coating Nebbiolo tannins midfield and beyond. Solid stuff, and requires fairly hearty braise-like dishes to drink to its best design.14.5% alc Drink now–2035 Protero Pinots White blend 2024 G 95 An Italianesque blend of three Pinots – Grigio, Bianco and Nero – that harmonises into a clear scent of cut Williams pear to start, notching up a gear or two in the palate with fabulous white fruits, apple and nectarine, and wonderfully attentive structural texture, acidity and grip and peppery spice combining to give this wine a genuine sense of serious gastronomic business. 13% alc Drink now–2028 Shaw + Smith Balhannah Vineyard Shiraz Shiraz 2021 G 95 Immediately appealing, deeply layered and engaging. Dark spices, cardamon and pepper, concentrated black fruit flavours entwined with savoury, sweet crumbled earth notes, compact, coiled, rich, willing to please. Elite styling and attention to balance and poise. 14% alc Drink now–2035 Sidewood Ironstone Barrels The Tyre Fitter Syrah Shiraz/Syrah 2021 G 95 Single clone, single vineyard sourced from an estate vineyard in the Echunga district. Darker spice at the approach, a charriness as well, rich with French oak pizzazz and ripe, darker berry fruits crush, well rounded, voluptuous almost, with desirable tannin coating. Complete and attractive styling. 14.2% alc Drink now–2035
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Weaver Single Vineyard Riesling 2023
Artwine Smiling Gamay Gamay 2023
G 95
G 94
Pale, straw hue. Aromatically enticing, preserved lemon, bees wax, crème caramel and wet slate with hints of char. A beautiful dichotomy between aroma and palate. Indelible acidity, carried by glorious fruit weight – the lemon, lime unfurls with appealing sweetness. The finish a balance of minerality and creamy roundness, the crème custard showing face. A true balancing act of flavour, acidity and texture makes this wine very special. Drink now–2034 Wicks Estate C.J. Wicks Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 95 Wicks’s more reserved outing, there’s a definite House Shiraz stamp on show here, similar to its estate style, with more finesse and depth in the aromatics. The plum senses are crimson to purple, fresh and crunchy when cut, elite French oak spice adding plenty of excitement in their exotica, while the palate knows it’s on a good thing in the top notes with an elegant weight and just enough structure to let the highlights shine. 14% alc Drink now–2038 XO Wine Co Small Batch Fiano Fiano 2024 G 95 Green-gold in the glass, sea-breezy aromatics with cut hay, tempting, with a fabulous palate to follow, crisp and pithy, peach and lime, a side feel of creaminess along with its vibrant acidity, lots to entertain, and bloody delicious. 13% alc Drink now–2029 XO Wine Co Reserve Selection Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2022 G 95 A best vineyard/best barrel selection. Lovely black cherry notes, with dark spices adding a delicious complexity at the front end of this wine. Well crafted, allowing the beauty within to shine without interference – kindly winemaking respectful of the fruit first and foremost. Lovely drinking. 13.5% alc Drink now–2034 Anvers Razorback Road Rosé Rosé 2024 G 94 Pretty pale pink, this Syrah-based Rosé has an earthy, bush floral note to begin, then genuinely attractive flavours of apple and strawberry, expertly balanced acidity and spicy tannin feels, pleasing to the max, even-keeled and moreish. 12.5% alc Drink now–2028 Anvers Wines Wind River Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 94 The nose is a little shy to begin, but it’s sitting in the shadows a bit and worth looking further. It reveals a bit about what follows, a demure style, blue to black berries, a waft of liquorice, nicely balanced and even palate flavours and feels, decent savoury layers and mouth coating, spicy tannins then energise the finish. Medium bodied and elegant. 13.5% alc Drink now–2030
Lighter colour with floral and sour cherry notes, garden stonewalls in the sunshine, savoury, gastronomic, flavour held with integrated tight acids and fine tannins, lingering impressively. One to take note of. 12.5% alc Drink now–2030 Barratt HSV Gamay Gamay 2024 G 94 Specifying Woodside sourcing, HSV referring to the vineyard. Quite pretty to begin, floral, faint notes of choc-prune, plum flavours to follow, spicy lifts as well, with plenty of energy and acidity in the palate carriage works. Good, pure drinkability with lingering flavours. 13% alc Drink now–2032 Barratt Wines Uley Vineyard Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 Piccadilly/Ashton district vineyard. Fragrant with florals and pink rose petals, almost bath talc perfumes, lavender to violet also contributing to the palate aromatics and flavour spectrum. One of the more delicate and elegant expressions from the region and vintage. (Tank sample/release date?) Drink now–2032 Basket Range Wine Estate Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 94 A tiny volume, four-barrique selection from the pioneering Basket Range estate vineyard. Excellent Hills Chardonnay aromas: some nutty cashew, white nectarine and citrus in concert – a pure expression, with nicely tightened palate still with a 30% new oak note and subtle breadiness. Plenty to take in, yet refreshing and moreish at the same time. Bang on. Drink now–2030 Basket Range Wine Estate Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 From estate blocks where longer ripening occurs, enhancing the varietal aromatics which sit a little deeper in the wine – take your time to reveal what appears to be a terroir note of alpine herbs and florals. The fruit is darker cherry with good acidity balance and soft tannins. Good substance here in a delicate framework.
12.6% alc Drink now–2032 BK Wines Remy Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2022
G 94
From the Lenswood district, a single barrel selection. Lovely, rich cherry fruit with bush florals and a unique fragrant headiness, the fruit deliciously ripe, yet with a creamy texture while tangy with natural acidity. Mouth-filling and impressive across all its elements. 12% alc Drink now–2034
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Cirillo Estate Wines, 1850 Grenache
Catlin Wines The Gellert Gamay Gamay 2023
First Drop Wines Minchia Montepulciano Montepulciano 2019
G 94
G 94
Nice glossy mid to dark ruby with attractive blue tinges, purity in the aromas and flavours, cherry juiciness, pomegranate, tea leaf, with lighter tannins and sticky grip. Plenty to like here. 13% alc Drink now–2030 Catlin Wines Black Montepulciano Montepulciano 2022 G 94 Dark purple in the glass. Pretty herbal waftings, fennel bulb, darker mint choc, black stewed berries for all the flavour things while the more critical evidence lies in its firm mouthful of tannins that drives it into serious full-bodied territory demanding big flavoured eating. 14% alc Drink now–2035 Catlin Wines Pudding & Pie Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 Sourced from near Hahndorf in the central Hills, there’s a darker tone to this wine, black cherry, cola, tangy spice edges, with a chalky note, maybe wild ferment in play here, with excellent backbone and focus in the palate. Has some class to it. 13% alc Drink now–2032 Cooke Brothers Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 A winemaker-driven style with 1/3 whole bunch fruit, and spending seven months in French puncheons, 40% new. Who knows where all that wood went, as it’s disappeared up inside some decent, mid-dark cherry and berry, before reappearing as a total compression of savoury and fruit. Quite a compelling style. 13% alc Drink now–2034 DAOSA Natural Reserve Sparkling VI G 94 A Piccadilly Valley Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Meunier cuvée from 2022 (85%) blended with older reserve wines out of oak, the lot further aged before tiraged on lees for 18 months. Complex aromas, a comfy heart of fruit and floral sweetness which carries forward into the palate as the wine’s natural acidity balances the mouthfeel, perks the mousse and refreshes with every sip. Joyful bubbles. 12.9% Traditional method Drink now–2030 Deviation Road Southcote Blanc de Noirs Sparkling 2021 G 94 A single Pinot Noir expression, with the faintest of faint bronze tinges, if you look hard enough! This expression shows a touch of red apple and fresh white fig characters, with tingling acidity and a deal of power in the palate, a fine mousse then allowing its sophisticated finish to linger. 12.5% alc Traditional method. Drink now–2030
Dark and deeply coloured with ruby edges. Big, rich aromas, dried plum, date, Middle Eastern spice and braised meats. No shirking here, this is a rich and generously built wine in all its flavour constructions, with attendant mouth-filling tannins and acidity to keep its spine upright. Big, spicy, muscly. Best with a hearty tagine-like dish. 14.5% alc Drink now–2030 Hahndorf Hill Benediction Saint Laurent, Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt 2020 G 94 Deep medium crimson with purple hue. Seductive aromas – deep and brooding, fruits of the forest, morello cherries, cracked pepper, pine timber and five spice. A vinous chiaroscuro – the perfect balance of light and dark – tart red fruits abreast of ripe blackberry, Dutch liquorice and graphite. Plush yet poised, there is a beautiful structure to the wine as it wraps itself in a velvet coat of tannin. A sophisticated wine
of worldly charm. Drink 2026–2030 Hahndorf Hill Gru Grüner Veltliner Grüner Veltliner 2024
G 94
Floral, lemon and lime, white stone fruits, a faint honeysuckle note, with a lively energy in the palate, acidity sitting comfortably with fruit pithiness, every element supportive of the others, spice, with a varietal white pepper familiarity seasoning the finish. Delicious and refreshing with great table manners. Drink now–2030 Hesketh Woodside Gamay Gamay 2024 G 94 Woodside vineyard sourced, darker cherry notes, stone/gravel suggestions, sweet fruit juiciness in the palate with spice and decent acidity lifting its spirits, good length and structure in the exit. Drink now–2030 Honey Moon Vineyard Blanc de Blancs Sparkling 2021 Grapefruit aromas, fresh and tangy in the palate with a subtle baking spice and pastry thread noted in and around the driving citrus acidity, compact mousse, good retention of flavour and refreshing pithiness in the finish. 12% alc Disgorged June
2024. Traditional method. Drink now–2034 Honey Moon Vineyard Sweet Cream Apera Fortified NV
G 94
A white fortified made from Hills Grüner Veltliner. Glossy mid gold-green. Immediate subtle flor notes, nougat as well. A genuinely unique expression with an aperitif-like freshness through the core of the wine, gorgeous flavours and zingy acidity, but couched with an old-fashioned cream Sherry sweetness. Moreish, not cloying, and bloody delicious. 18% alc Drink now–2030
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Honey Moon Vineyard Classic Tawny Fortified NV
Longview Saturnus Nebbiolo 2021
G 94
G 94
A multi-vintage tawny made from – wait for it – mostly Pinot Noir, the first put down in 2009. Which perhaps explains the lighter tawny colour, and also defines the elegance and lightness of styling here. It’s refreshing, not too sweet, with all the expected nutty, caramel and brandy-esque flavours, as well as a lovely floral note across the palate. A delicate touch to be celebrated. 19.7% alc Drink now–2034 La Prova Aglianico Rosato Rosé 2024 G 94 Very pale pink, crafted from Aglianico fruit grown in the northern Hills region and designed as a very dry style, peppery almost in its spice notes, white to redcurrant in the fruit spectrum with crunchy acidity and texture. Hyper-drive dry Rosé expression. 12.5% alc Drink now–2030 La Prova Uno Fiano Fiano 2023 G 94 A Reserve style Fiano that shows in its aromatics of orchard florals, grapefruit notes, and subtle baking spices. The extra winemaking comes into play in the palate, where wild-ferment/older oak edginess coalesces with lees-influenced creaminess for a mouth-filling, textural finish. The extra yards count. 13.4% alc Drink now–2030 Lobethal Road Bacchant Shiraz 2022 G 94 Deep ruby. A sophisticated perfume, demure yet present – black cherry, blackberry, chinotto, pink peppercorn, sage and a breath of bergamot. There is a harmony to this wine – fruit, tannin and acid evenly steered. Buoyant on the palate – flavours seem suspended as their descent is long and graceful. The finish sees a lick of salinity infused with amaro botanics. Proof to the virtues of patience – give this wine time in the glass. Pure elegance. Drink now–2030 Lobethal Road FIL-PfR Pinot Gris Pinot Gris 2024 G 94 Classy from the first sniff. Pale with a faint green tinge to the edges. Purity in the aromatics, fragrant, blossom, edging to first flush of jasmine with a faint sourdough side hustle. 100% large French barrel fermented for six months, adding lees complexity and feel, understated sophistication. 13.2% alc Drink now–2030 Longview Macclesfield Chardonnay 2023 G 94 Lucid straw. Aromatic purity, lemon in all forms (the juice, the flesh, the zest and blossom), white peach, tonic water and river stones. The subtleties of a cool vintage, the wine is taut yet with seamless glide across the palate. Initial citrus fruit and tonic botanicals ride the zephyr of gentle yet apparent acidity. Deft use of oak, reveals a light toastiness – think bread on the second setting of the toaster – that rounds out to a most pleasant, delicately saline finish. Handsome and refined. Drink now–2034
Colour varietally correct. Fleshy notes to start, crushed rocks, some tarriness, properly savoury, a touch of nori sheet in the palate before a sweeter dark cherry fruit note enters, building intensity with a well-weighted matrix of tannin bringing all the elements together. Let it breathe. Pleasing finish. Promise of greater pleasures to come. 14% alc Drink now–2036 Longview The Piece Shiraz 2020 G 94 From the Longview Macclesfield estate, the flagship wine featuring a commissioned artwork label, while on the inside the wine has a sense of completeness even as you approach it, grounded in earthy notes, fruit and crumbled soil and crushed granites all threaded together, black plum flavours lifting in the finish. Big time pleasures. 13.5% alc Diam Drink now–2034 Murdoch Hill Landau Syrah 2023 G 94 Medium-deep crimson with purple hue. Beguiling perfume, musky plum, blackberry, white peppercorn, underpinned with the nostalgia of an Italian delicatessen. Light on its feet, it dances across the palate leaving with it a savoury spice imprint. Both layered and long – its understory of tannin promises something special on the horizon. A beautifully polished wine. Drink now–2034 Murdoch Hill The Tilbury Chardonnay 2023 G 94 Lemon straw in hue. Grapefruit, lemongrass, sumac, tonic water and a kiss of flint. Charming fruit weight, the palate oscillates from bright acidity to a suppleness. Citrus, green olive and tonic water flavours, brushed by phenolics. The wine’s lacy texture is married with a line of indelible acidity. A star in the making. Drink now– 2032 Murdoch Hill Apollo Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 From Murdoch Hill’s Lenswood vineyard, a more minerally infused expression, some powdery, talc-like fragrance, with cherry fruits in slow release and a peppery spice as well. A definite textural statement more than fruit driven, though that may even out with a few years maturing. 12.5% alc Drink now–2034 Penny’s Hill The Agreement Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 94 Super pale and incredibly aromatic, bursting with all the Sauvignon things – cut grass, just-split passionfruit, tomato leaf, then easing back on the pedal in the palate with a quieter rendition of all of those elements, expertly tempered acidity and pithiness to allow its pure tropical fruit salad flavours to carry the day. Very smart style. 13% alc Drink now–2028
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Pike & Joyce Vue de Nord Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023
Shaw + Shaw M3 Chardonnay 2023
G 94
G 94
From the Lenswood estate. Lovely aromatics of cherry, woodlands, Asian spices, all slipping easily into a light-hearted and spicy/peppery palate, a bit of fruit tang in there as well, fitting in neatly with a light grippy finish. Fresh and flavourful. 13.5% alc Drink now–2028 Pike & Joyce W.J.J. Reserve Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2022 G 94 From the P&J estate vineyard in Lenswood, crafted in a Reserve style with a decent amount of structure built in. Darker cherry notes, a faint suggestion of blood orange, light oak charring, medium bodied with present tannins and even acidity. A more complex expression of Hills Pinot. 13.5% alc Drink now–2032 Riposte The Scimitar Riesling 2024 G 94 Riposte Wines proprietor/winemaker Tim Knappstein knows a thing or two about Clare Valley Riesling, sourcing this from a prized vineyard east of the Watervale village in one of the region’s most renowned districts. To begin, the wine is all about the exotic nature of ripe lime fruit, blossom and flesh, with faint but effusive heady scents of lily playing along with their pretty aromatic depth. That lime thing just gets deeper and deeper into the core of the palate, accompanied by delicate acidity with an almost spicy edge. It’s delicious and very approachable, with fairy dust chalkiness in the finish. Riesling which delivers flavour above and beyond its natural varietal zing. (An extra note: The label now carries a side-line: Tim Knappstein and Son, pointing to a promising future for the brand.) Drink now–2030 Riposte The Katana Chardonnay 2023 G 94 Riposte is the family brand of Tim Knappstein and Son, based in the Adelaide Hills district of Lenswood after Tim’s earlier years forging an admirable reputation in the Clare Valley. This Chardonnay is single vineyard sourced out of the Kenton Creek district, going straight to press as mostly whole berries before fermentation (50% wild) in French barriques (25% new), where the yeast lees remained for around eight months. All contemporary, cool climate winemaking skills enabling a Hills Chardonnay stamp in freshly cut white nectarine aromas and flavours, a creamy feel in the tasting, subtle citrus underlay and deft handling of oak offering texture and balanced richness without woody interference. Tasteful and tasty – a sophisticated expression. Drink 2026–2030 Saint & Scholar The Masters Series Chardonnay 2022 G 94 Lemon with a translucent hue. Beautifully perfumed, sweet and floral – white peach, almond nougat, meringue and frangipani blossom. Poised, the power is a gradual ascent from the wine’s sweet stone-fruit core. A vinous lemon meringue in buoyancy, creaminess and subtle acid lift. The savoury moreish finish calls for another glass. Drink now–2028
Glassier lemon straw. Aromas playout with intricacy, initial char, stone-fruit flambé, extra virgin olive oil, lemongrass and a sweet air of macarons. Immediate drive of citrus flavour, the palate is weighted but remarkably supple. Composed it holds steady against taut acidity, all the while enveloped by a subtle savoury creaminess. Oak plays a courteous hand, evident without distraction – it leaves an echo of spice long after the wine is gone. A revered wine by consumer and producer alike. Drink now–2030
Shaw + Smith Riesling 2024
G 94
Pale, straw hue. Instantly shows class; green apple, kiwi, lime curd, camomile and elderflower, with hints of slate. Concentrated, while retaining a sense of elegance. Well pitched in a display of citrus, kiwi and florals – spicy acidity carries the length
of its finish. A long one at that. Drink now–2030 Shaw + Smith Lenswood Vineyard Chardonnay Chardonnay 2022
G 94
Pale in the glass, hyper refined style, delicate florals, fine French oak in the background, subtle white nectarine with citrus flavour threading, finessed acidity and texture. Hallmark S+S Lenswood identity. 12.5% alc Drink now–2030 Sidewood Ironstone Barrels The Old China Hands Syrah Shiraz/Syrah 2021 G 94 Single clone, single vineyard sourced from an estate vineyard in the Echunga district. Attractive berry ripeness, mint notes, dark chocolate suggestions all build into a rich and complex style, underpinned by solid structural acidity and beneficial tannins. Length and pleasure assured. 14.5% alc Drink now–2035 Sidewood Abel Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 94 One of three single clone releases grown at Sidewood’s Oakbank district vineyard. Here, there’s a bit more flesh, and a bit more weight and structure, a more complete expression than the other two single clones. Cherry fruit, fallen pine needles, well rounded and balanced palate structures. 13.5% alc Drink now–2032 Sidewood Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 94 Fully expressive Chardonnay from the outset, with varietal ripeness, the stone fruits perhaps more yellow than white, and a sense of honeydew melon as well. An added creaminess has a note of vanilla in it – smart oak handling, for sure, with the finish perky, as a good line of acidity keeps the wine refreshed and lively. Great value. 12.5% alc Drink now–2030
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Sidewood Estate Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2024
Wicks Estate Shiraz Shiraz 2021
G 94
G 94
Neatly toned aromas – all the Sauvignon things, bramble, grapefruit zest, tropical fruits, with a cleverly entwined thread of acidity to energise the palate without overly zealous volume. Flavours hold their citrus bias for some time, with a nicely weighted, refreshing sense of the variety’s best foot forward. 11.5% alc Drink now–2028 The Pawn Wine Co Grüner Veltliner Grüner Veltliner 2023 G 94 Delightful aromatics: apples, pears, orchard florals, fresh air, moving towards minerally and savoury pathways, and a faint dusting of the variety’s signature white pepper. Through the core of the palate there’s a tonic-like refreshment. It all works in a harmonic chorus, yet quite understated and almost ambient. A peppery finish reflects its overall gastronomic pleasures. 12% alc Drink now–2028 Weaver Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 94 From Geoff Weaver’s Lenswood vineyard, a wine with great track record and, again, here we see why: lovely smooth aromatics, almost creamy passionfruit curd- like, with a roasted lime-like depth in the palate as well, lively acidity, balanced and mildly spicy, gentle throughout with a fruit tingle finish. 13% alc Drink now–2029 Weaver Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2021 G 94 Geoff Weaver’s Lenswood estate grown. Classic cherry and woodsy notes, a light tobacco leaf wafting, black tea leaf too. The mix of fruit and leaf and spice are essential ingredients here, all in sync, with the backing of a tingling acidity and mouth filling tannins. No shouting, just intelligently expressed pinosity. 12.5% alc Drink now– 2034 Weaver Chardonnay Chardonnay 2021 G 94 Clearly generous styling, colour stepping into light gold with greenish tones, lovely ripe stone fruit flavours with delicate oak notes to back up the palate, acidity underlying to hold the textural lines. Plenty of Chardonnay wealth in the glass. 13.5% alc Drink now–2032 Wicks Estate Pamela Chardonnay Pinot Noir Sparkling 2016 G 94 A soft golden hue. A rich and inviting nose, stewed apple, quince, marzipan, camomile and a faint brine nuance. The delicate fine bead melts over the palate, congruent with its autolytic flavours and flaked almond edge. Attractive lemon fruit zing, finishes with a delicate tonic water bitterness. A stratified wine of complexity and flow. Make a seat for Pamela at the table. Drink now–2030
Highly aromatic in cool climate mode, long ripening bringing our high-toned dark quishy plums and cherry, great swirling purple colours adding to the opening thrills. The extra spice and herb notes suggest fruit compote, cracked pepper as well, fragrant oak too. Lots of top end attraction while the palate is quieter and supportive, a faint amaro bitterness in the tannins, just to add further gastronomic interest. Very smart. 14% Drink now–2034 About Time Woodside Chardonnay Chardonnay 2022 G 93 Lovely creamy Chardonnay notes to begin, well managed fruit and oak making a complete initial impression. Ripe yet delicate stone-fruit flavours, rich mouth-filling structures, mid-weight richness with balanced acidity and drive. Most enjoyable. 13% alc Drink now–2030 Anvers Razorback Road Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 93 Coming from the far southwestern corner of the region, bordering on Kangarilla, the varietal notes are clear, its herbal essences upright, passionfruit and lime, pine-lime almost, especially as there is a delicate creaminess to the palate while a neatly balanced undercurrent of acidity keeps the wine energised and toned. 12.5% alc Drink now–2027 Artwine In the Groove Grüner Veltliner Grüner Veltliner 2023 G 93 Pale with a faint green tinge in the glass. A mix of citrus, florals, white nectarine and green apple in the aromatics, clean cut and fresh, with a well measured blend of flavours and texture, some pithiness and spice in the finish. Lovely refreshing style. 12.5% alc Drink now–2029 Basket Range Wine Banksia Pinot Noir Pinot Noir 2023 G 93 Mostly estate fruit from the pioneering Broderick vineyard with a quarter from a nearby Balhannah source. Designed as a lighter, approachable and easy pouring Pinot, it has an alpine herbal/mint note to its fragrance, bush florals, with lighter cherry flavours, lighter tannin vibes with a subtle alpine herb/amaro note to finish. Delicate, but not insubstantial. 12.4% alc Drink now–2028 Basket Range Wine Bantam Red Blend 2023 G 93 A fascinating Basket Range estate vineyard blend: Merlot (30%), Petit Verdot (30%), Pinot Noir (15%), Cabernet Sauvignon (15%) and Saperavi (5%). An early/easy drinking style yet with a decent structure and savoury flavour notes of leaf and earth and stem that is the antithesis of power black fruitedness. Its core vibe is as a really interesting wine, charming, enticing and unique. 12.8% alc Drink now–2030
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