Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz is connected to the earliest beginnings of South Australia’s wine industry. Forged from the Barossa’s oldest vineyards and matured in Yalumba-coopered oak, it epitomises the ambitions of the Hill-Smith family, where storied history, craftsmanship and modernity offer something special and unique in the world of wine. This eJournal explores the history of Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz and results of a full vertical tasting from the inaugural 1988 vintage through to 2020.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW
– VERTICALS –
YALUMBA THE OCTAVIUS SHIRAZ
‘A unique Barossa Shiraz style highlighting superb vineyard provenance, singularity of style and authenticity of origin.’
The Octavius Vineyard
CONTENTS
YALUMBA THE OCTAVIUS SHIRAZ, BAROSSA – SOUTH AUSTRALIA
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About Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz
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A UNIQUE HISTORY
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1849 onwards
2 4 4 6
1901, from Federation
Living heritage
Heritage – redefined
THE OCTAVIUS SHIRAZ – transparency and authenticity
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2018, an historic vintage
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TASTING NOTES
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YALUMBA THE OCTAVIUS SHIRAZ, BAROSSA – SOUTH AUSTRALIA
About The Wine
1990
First Vintage
30th vintage of this flagship shiraz wine
Vintages
Barossa – Eden Valley & Barossa Valley sub- regions – South Australia Planted 1854 and between 1901 & 1951 Pre-phylloxera heritage shiraz with a history going back to 1832 A classical, modern and expressive Barossa shiraz with the freshness, balance and complexity for long-term ageing Yalumba-coopered French oak for around 21 months
Provenance
Historic Vineyards
Grape Variety
Style
Maturation
High-grade long corks
Seal
Sustainable Wine Growing Australia and other ESG initiatives The family-owned Yalumba was founded in 1849 by Samuel Smith. Fifth-generation Robert Hill-Smith is the proprietor and chairman of Yalumba and the Hill-Smith Family Estates.
Work Practices
History
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‘A unique Barossa Shiraz style highlighting superb vineyard provenance, singularity of style and authenticity of origin.’
Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz is connected to the earliest beginnings of South Australia’s wine industry. Forged from the Barossa’s oldest vineyards and matured in Yalumba-coopered oak, it epitomises the ambitions of the Hill-Smith family, where storied history, craftsmanship and modernity offer something special and unique in the world of wine. Yalumba The Octavius symbolises the essence of great Barossa shiraz. Ancient vines, pure expressive fruit and imaginative winemaking combine with some of the oldest geology in the world and the pristine environment of the Barossa region, where Australian First Nations people first lived thousands of years ago. This country is also the traditional lands of the Ngadjuri, Peramangk, and Kaurna peoples.
A Unique History
1849 ONWARDS Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz belongs to a tradition that dates back to 1849, when Samuel Smith first planted vines in the beautifully situated Angaston sub district of the Barossa Valley. The vineyards flourished and the wines found markets far and wide. Within just 30 years, Yalumba was exporting claret-style red wines and other types throughout the Australian colonies, India and New Zealand. In addition to its own vineyards, Yalumba, meaning ‘all the country around’, purchased grapes from English and German families who had arrived in the Barossa region in the 1840s and 1850s. Some of these relationships have lasted for several generations. In the early 1880s, Yalumba began exporting wine to the United Kingdom, where these wines became famous for their richness of flavour, buoyancy of fruit and fine-grained textures. This success was aided by a partnership with Peter Bond Burgoyne, who created a remarkable trade
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for Australian red wines. At the Bordeaux International Wine Exhibition, a panel of expert judges awarded the 1882 Yalumba Claret a gold medal, beginning a golden era of prize-winning claret wines and other types at international wine shows, including London and Calcutta. Together, second-generation Sidney Smith and his sons, Percy and Walter, developed a thriving ‘wine manufactory’ that became the pride of the Barossa. Many of the vineyards planted during this era have survived the test of time, and Yalumba’s The Octavius Shiraz is based on the best heirloom vineyard blocks going back 70 to 170 years! By 1889, Yalumba was ‘still outpacing all other brands in public estimation’. Around 1890, Yalumba established its own barrel-making team and cooperage at the winery. This was in response to the enormous orders of dry red wine from the United Kingdom and the increasing production of fortified wine and brandy. The tradition of running a chateau-style cooperage has been an integral part of Yalumba’s identity for over 130 years, and was inspired by the shipping method of the time. Almost all of South Australia’s exports were shipped in 300-litre oak hogsheads.
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Seasoning the barrels
1901, FROM FEDERATION The investment in vineyards, winemaking technology, yeast selection and barrel maturation reached a new level of sophistication by the time of Australia’s Federation in 1901. Exports continued to grow. Typically, Yalumba crushed about 1100 tons and produced over 200,000 imperial gallons of wine, each vintage drawing fruit from estate vineyards and growers around the Barossa, including the cool elevated sites of Eden Valley and the warm generous landscape of the Barossa Valley. By the 1900s, capacious cellars were required to store the wines and brandy for extended maturation. Yalumba’s newly built cellars (1908), with the iconic clock tower, and superb barrel storage soon became a symbol of family enterprise and export success. This was highlighted by the construction of a railway between Adelaide and the Barossa Valley, the northern terminal being at Angaston, where Yalumba could load hogsheads destined for the eastern states and the export market. Demand for Yalumba’s claret and burgundy styles, fortified wines, and brandies continued as ‘providence and nature’ established the Barossa’s fame across the British Empire. LIVING HERITAGE Yalumba’s century-old vineyards are the legacy of a thriving export market for South Australian dry red and fortified wines during the late 19 th and early-to-mid 20 th centuries. This is of significance because the pre- phylloxera shiraz vines belong to ancient genetic vine stock brought out to Australia by James Busby in 1832. Although there are cabernet sauvignon plantings dating back to 1888 in the Barossa Valley, it was typical for Australian claret styles to be made from shiraz. When Yalumba planted its vineyards in the 1850s, the cuttings were sourced from Sir William Macarthur’s Camden Park in New South Wales, and from Pewsey Vale and Tarrawatta in the Eden Valley. These ancient Yalumba vines, planted on their own roots, have been nurtured for several generations and form the foundation of the rare The Octavius Shiraz. Penfolds No 1 Claret, Yalumba Claret, Auldana St Henri Claret and Tintara Champion Reserve were the most widely known South Australian dry reds during the 1920s. Although the 1924 Export Bounty Act encouraged wineries to produce fortified wines for markets within
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the British Empire, established family wineries continued to make and improve their dry red wines for a small but sophisticated market in Australia and a revitalised post World War I market in the UK. Yalumba continued to produce reference clarets, primarily based on shiraz and 19 th century-planted and turn-of-the-century vineyards during the 1920s and 1930s. When fourth-generation Wyndham Hill-Smith took over the winery in 1938, Yalumba expanded its vineyards and invested more in the Australian market. The release of 1942 Special Reserve Galway Claret began the modern era of fine red winemaking at Yalumba. Under the legendary winemaker Rudi Kronberger, this series of vintages established a formidable reputation among wine connoisseurs. Based on cabernet sauvignon and shiraz, these limited release, fresh, modern claret styles were aged in oak puncheons for two years prior to release. They also inspired the age-worthy Yalumba Signature Series Cabernet Shiraz, which has become a hallmark of Yalumba’s fine wine portfolio. But production of dry table wine remained a speciality. Throughout the immediate post war years, fortified wines dominated the market, but the termination of the Export Bounty Scheme in 1947 foreshadowed a gradual decline in fortified wine production. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, Yalumba became a symbol of innovation and progress. Almost every aspect of winemaking and vineyard management was fine- tuned. In 1953, the new managing director, Mark Hill-Smith, undertook a world tour to review winemaking technologies and opportunities for Yalumba. This sparked new investments in refrigeration and pressure fermentation, investment in small oak, and the development of table wines. Yalumba, like Penfolds, adopted these technological advances to establish reference wines of the times. Throughout the 1960s and 1970s, Yalumba released important claret style wines based on 19 th and early 20 th century vineyards. The 1962 Yalumba Signature Cabernet Shiraz began a family tradition that highlights a longstanding collaborative culture and commitment to the framework of multi-vineyard sourcing from Yalumba’s estate vineyards and independent growers. Yalumba believes that a selection of grand cru parcels from various locations around the Barossa can lead to beautifully balanced classic wines. But by the late 1980s, Robert Hill-Smith and his director of winemaking, Brian
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Walsh, wished to reinvigorate and set a new direction for Yalumba and the millennial generation of fine wine drinkers. Changing tastes, new expectations, and innovative technologies and practices had opened up new possibilities and exciting opportunities. HERITAGE – REDEFINED When the 1988 The Octavius was first made, it was the beginning of a more imaginative and ambitious era of winemaking and brought all of the elements of Yalumba’s remarkable vineyard resources, winemaking skills, unique coopered oak and storied history together. Although the first vintages were released commercially, they were largely experimental wines. There were initial ideas that an ultra-premium The Octavius could follow the success of the iconic 1962 Penfolds 60A Cabernet Shiraz, which was based on Coonawarra and Barossa fruit. But Robert Hill- Smith’s preference for a shiraz based on heirloom vineyards from the country all around was deemed a more suitable fit for small oak aging, regional definition and authenticity of the style. The decision to mature the wine in Yalumba coopered octaves, crafted from the barrel-heads of puncheons, neatly honoured the Hill-Smith family’s fine wine tradition. During the 1990s, the new oak component was toned down to enhance the balance and impact of the wines. Since the early 2000s, Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz has reached a compelling consistency across vintages, with proven cellaring quality. This is well-reflected in the secondary wine auction market where it has become valued by wine collectors for its longevity, singularity of character and voice of place. For instance, The Octavius Shiraz has been included in Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine since 2005. Behind the development of The Octavius Shiraz are the remarkable surviving plantings of 19 th and early 20 th century vineyards. When Yalumba declared its Old Vine Charter, the intent was to quantify the meaning and importance of Barossa region’s old vine legacy. The wine community soon adopted the classification of vineyard age to highlight the living heritage of 19 th century and early 20 th century vines. Phylloxera has not reached South Australia because of strict quarantine regulations and luck, and hence the Barossa is home to the largest acreage of 19 th century vines in the world. Behind every one of these vineyards is a
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back-story of family endeavour and ambition. This patchwork of vines represents a unique spirit of place. For generations, families in the Barossa have worked together, tended their vineyards, and shared in the region’s culture, community and fortunes. Yalumba and the Hill-Smith Family are custodians of many of the Barossa region’s oldest surviving vineyards, and The Octavius is a tribute to their originality and individuality. The oldest surviving vines which contribute to the wine date back to 1854, 1901, 1919 and 1920. Others were planted later, in the 1940s and 1950s. The sourcing of fruit is carried out after extensive consultations between the vineyard managers and winemakers. This includes decisions on picking dates and location of the best vineyard blocks. The Octavius begins with the best ‘grand cru’ parcels of Barossa shiraz, and is followed by detailed winemaking and uncompromising selection. The perfumed and pure fruit aromas of Eden Valley and the concentration, texture, and ripeness of Barossa Valley shiraz are combined and exquisitely balanced to form the final blend. Yalumba prefers to use a combination of octaves, hogsheads and puncheons for the wine. This results in superb oak integration, smoother textures and balanced fruit complexity with age. When the wine is assembled after two years’ maturation, only the best parcels are selected. This is established after rigorous trial blending and tasting by Yalumba’s winemaking and technical team. The panel is headed up by red wine maker Kevin Glastonbury, who has worked on the development of The Octavius Shiraz style for over 20 years. The Octavius Shiraz – transparency and authenticity The reputation of The Octavius Shiraz highlights the hard work and collaborative effort of Yalumba’s viticultural and winemaking teams. The wine style also symbolises the long-lasting benefits of sustainable winegrowing practices, which were initiated in the mid-1990s. Unpredictable weather patterns have become a feature of viticulture and winemaking around the world, and Barossa vignerons are all
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Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz
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Robert Hill-Smith
doing their best to mitigate the challenges of climate change. Many of Yalumba’s vineyard and winery practices have been developed to reduce environmental impact and improve soils. Regenerative agriculture, carbon sequestration and solar energy are examples. These management techniques are improving the resilience and health of the vineyards, while leading to better wines. Sustainability, social awareness and governance will continue to be priorities as Yalumba transitions to the new generations of the Hill-Smith family in the Barossa. 2018, AN HISTORIC VINTAGE The 2018 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz is one of the estate’s greatest vintages in memory. Its modulated power and elegant structure reflect a wonderful growing season, the exceptional provenance of their heirloom vineyards sites in the Eden Valley and the Barossa Valley, and the best of precision winemaking and maturation.
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It derives from six of Yalumba’s best heritage vineyards in the Barossa, which date back to 1854. The cool, elevated vineyard sites of Eden Valley have contributed 69% of the blend. The rest comes from heirloom vineyards in the Barossa Valley. Combined, the average age of the vines is 111 years. After traditional vinification, the wine was matured in a combination of 25% new French oak (barriques & hogsheads) and one- year-old and seasoned French oak octaves, barriques and hogsheads. This Octavius vertical tasting review is the third time the winemakers at Yalumba and select media have tasted through all of the vintages. The first vintages were experimental wines. The 1988 Octavius was a Coonawarra cabernet, but subsequent vintages are Barossa shiraz based on heirloom vineyards. Throughout the 1990s, the winemaking team, headed up by Brian Walsh, experimented with fruit sourcing and oak maturation. The initial vintages were aged in 100% Yalumba-coopered American and French 100-litre oak octave barrels (supposedly an eighth of a standard cask). But nowadays, the wine is aged in a combination of Hungarian and French oak barriques and hogsheads. Then, after blending and before bottling, some parcels, 20–30%, are further aged in second-year octaves. Kevin Glastonbury, who took over winemaking in 1999, says, ‘We found that the oak pickup from Octaves was too powerful for the wine. Ultimately, this tasting shows the journey we have taken from one year to the next. I feel that The Octavius finds a voice from the 2006 vintage onwards.’ I think this is about right, but it also reflects the advances in viticulture and winemaking over the last 20 years. The 2018 vintage is a highwater mark and promises to take The Octavius into a new orbit around the sphere of grand cru type wines. It is the perfect vintage to release on La Place de Bordeaux in September this year. It will also be available through normal fine wine channels in Australia. The Octavius Shiraz is a small production cuvée of between 600 and 1200 dozen. No vintages were made in 1989, 1991, 2007 or 2011.
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Tasting Notes
2020 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
Deep crimson. Elemental and pure with expressive blackberry, boysenberry, aniseed aromas with vanilla notes. Beautiful concentrated wine with superbly dense ripe dark berry fruits, chocolaty graphite firm coating tannins and mocha, roasted chestnut oak notes. All in parts but very well balanced wine with superb fruit concentration and purity. Minerally. Could be anything from 96–100 points, but not ready for review. 14.5% alc NS 2019 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Intense dark plum, black cherry, blackberry aromas with praline, vanilla, hint black pepper notes. Generously proportioned wine with superb pure blackberry pastille, cassis sage flavours, fine chocolaty firm tannins and beautiful integrated ginger, roasted chestnut oak. Finishes chocolaty and long. Wonderful follow-up vintage. Drink 2030–2048. 14.5% alc 2018 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 99 Medium-deep crimson. Magnificent pure blackberry dark chocolate aromas with vanilla roasted chestnut notes. Beautifully concentrated and inky deep with beautiful pure dark berry fruits, fine slinky animated tannins and perfectly integrated new mocha, vanilla oak. Finishes classically firm with superb mineral length. Very seductive and impressive with a beautiful scent of place. Wonderful fruit definition, purity and precision with the density and torque for long-term ageing. Almost perfect symmetry. Drink 2028–2050. 14.5% alc 2017 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 94 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant redcurrant, mulberry, sage, hint black pepper aromas with mocha/ espresso notes. Fresh juicy redcurrant, mulberry fruits, plentiful fine chalky/ touch leafy tannins, attractive mid-palate volume and attractive savoury oak complexity. Grainy firm at the finish with pure red and dark berry fruits. A sleeper that needs some time to come out of its shell. Decant a few hours before drinking. Drink 2025–2042. 14.5% alc
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2016 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, blackberry, dark chocolate with lifted graphite notes. Beautifully balanced wine with superbly ripe cassis, blackberry pastille fruits, plentiful fine chalky/ lacy firm tannins, lovely mid palate volume and well-integrated espresso, vanilla oak notes. Finishes chocolaty and minerally. Lovely precision, density and volume. Juicy elements and vigorous tannins lengthen the palate. The elements still need to fold into each other. Drink 2025–2045. 14.5% alc 2015 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 92 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive redcurrant, cassis, mulberry, sage aromas with vanilla notes. Inky deep wine with fresh redcurrant, cassis, mulberry fruits, fine al dente touch grippy/ chewy tannins and underlying savoury oak complexity. Finishes minerally and long. Structure dominates the wine. Drink now–2035. 14% alc 2014 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant blackberry, mulberry, hint strawberry aromas with underlying grilled nut/ sage notes. Refined inky wine with pure blackberry, mulberry fruits, fine grainy hint grippy tannins, lovely mid palate volume, linear freshness and underlying sesame/ vanilla oak. Finishes crunchy with a fine tannin plume. A lovely elegantly styled The Octavius Shiraz. Should develop very well. Drink now–2042. 14% alc 2013 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Exuberant dark cherry, graphite, liquorice aromas with prune/ panforte notes. Traditional Barossa shiraz style with abundant dark berry dark chocolate flavours, chocolaty/ grippy textures and well-integrated mocha/ vanilla/ hints spicy oak. Finishes gravelly with persistent acidity. Drink now–2038. 14% alc 2012 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 95 Medium-deep crimson, Expressive blackberry pastille, graphite, sage aromas with praline notes. Well balanced and sinuous wine with attractive pure blackberry, dark plum fruits, fine lacy/ chalky tannins, lovely mid palate viscosity/ inky density and well-balanced mocha/ vanilla oak notes. Finishes cedar firm and minerally. Elegantly structured with lovely fruit complexity and vinosity. Drink now–2040. 14% alc
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2010 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 93
Medium-deep crimson. Attractive redcurrant, dark plum aromas with vanilla roasted chestnut notes. Concentrated redcurrant, dark plum, hint panforte flavours, fine lacy firm, slightly chewy tannins and underlying savoury/ roasted chestnut oak notes. Finishes chocolaty/ grippy with fresh mineral acidity. Elegantly styled wine with highly animated structure. Drink now–2036. 13.5% alc 2009 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 94+ Deep crimson. Lovely dark chocolate, blackberry, sage, graphite aromas with rose garden/ herb garden notes. Buoyant and richly flavoured with abundant blackberry, hint boysenberry fruits, some sage herb notes, fine loose-knit chalky textures and fresh vanilla mocha notes, gravelly firm tannins. Well-balanced wine with Eden Valley fruit coming through. Refined and beautiful. Drink now–2040. 13.5% alc 2008 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 95 Deep crimson. Fresh dark chocolate, espresso, roasted hazelnut, dark cherry, blackberry aromas with hints of herb garden notes. Concentrated dark chocolate, praline flavours, ripe blackberry fruits, fine cedary textures, lovely mid palate richness and integrated fresh acidity. Finishes firm, minerally with opulent dark berry, liquorice fruits. Drink now– Deep crimson. Fresh dark chocolate, dark plum, blackberry fruits with graphite mineral notes. Well concentrated and impressively balanced wine with deep-set blackberry, dark cherry fruits, fine chocolaty/ grippy/ vigorous textures, attractive mid palate volume and well balanced dark chocolate/ roasted chestnut oak notes. Very modern in style with underlying juicy acidity. Very good density and torque with lovely mineral/ saline notes. Drink now–2042. 14.5% alc 2005 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 96 Deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, blackberry, blackcurrant aromas with vanilla, marzipan notes. Generous and sweet fruited, yet savoury in frame with ample dark berry fruits, fine persistent chocolaty tannins and well-integrated mocha, espresso, vanilla oak notes. Very complete and balanced, with a lovely voice of place. Should continue to cellar really well. Drink now–2045. 14% alc 2040. 13.5% alc 2007 – not made 2006 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 95+
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2004 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 95
Deep crimson. Powerfully expressive wine with intense blackberry, dark cherry, stone fruit, hint graphite aromas with vanillin, marzipan notes. Beautifully balanced wine with plentiful blackberry praline flavours, abundant fine chalky tannins and well-integrated marzipan vanilla mocha oak notes, Finishes claret firm and minerally with a long tannin plume. Lovely wine with superb density, fruit sweetness, complexity and freshness. Drink now–2045. 14.5% alc 2003 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh developed blackberry jam, strawberry, dark cherry aromas with vanilla, coconut nuances. Richly flavoured with ample red and dark berry, apricot fruits, supple fine/ hint al dente/ leafy tannins and noticeable mocha coconut notes. Generous and expressive with sweet and minerally character reflecting difficult two-faced vintage conditions. Still drinks well, despite not being a classic. Not a keeper though. Drink now–soon. 14.5% alc 2002 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 95 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive blackberry sage dark chocolate, roasted coffee, vanilla aromas. Richly concentrated with ample pure blackberry, cassis, praline, hint toffee flavours, fine loose-knit chocolaty dry tannins, integrated mocha oak and persistent juicy acidity. Finishes gritty/ graphite firm with lovely mineral length. Sleek and modern in style. Lovely drinking. Drink now–2036. 14.5% alc 2001 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Intense dark chocolate, blackberry aromas with mocha, marzipan notes. Well concentrated palate with pure blackberry pastille sage, a touch of graphite. Fine slinky tannins and integrated roasted coffee, marzipan, dark chocolate notes. Finishes al dente/ gravelly firm with seductive dark berry fruits, oak complexity and persistent fresh acidity. Very good density, structure and mineral length. Drink now–2034. 13.5% alc
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2000 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 92
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh red cherry, cranberry, blackberry graphite, hint leafy sage aromas with dark chocolate mocha crème caramel notes. Inky wine with ample red cherry, cranberry fruits, fine lacy dry tannins, and underlying roasted, grilled nut complexity, leather notes. Finishes gravelly/drying firm with persistent crunchy acidity. Fresh and buoyant wine. Drink now–2032. 13.5% alc 1999 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 94 Medium-deep crimson. Evolved dark plum, blackberry, graphite leafy aromas with hints of crème brulée. Generous and complex with ample dark berry fruits, loose-knit fine chocolaty/ cedary tannins and underlying roasted chestnut, marzipan, hint coconut oak. Chocolaty firm claret-like finish with very good mineral length. Very characterful and expressive wine with lovely complexity and development. Drink now–2038. 14.5% alc 1998 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 97 Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, blackberry, praline, espresso aromas with aniseed notes. Beautifully concentrated wine with deep- set blackberry dark cherry, dark plum, touch fig-like flavours, plentiful fine chocolaty tannins and integrated mocha, roasted coffee, oak notes. Finishes gravelly with persistent dark fruits. Brilliant wine, reflecting a superb growing season and vineyard resources. Drink now–2045. 14.5% alc 1997 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 92 Medium-deep crimson. Leafy blackberry, graphite, mocha aromas with hints of desiccated coconut. Fresh blackberry, dark cherry, liquorice flavours, fine leafy textures and mocha, espresso notes. Finishes al dente/ gritty firm and minerally. Very good richness and volume despite the challenges of the season. Drink now–2032. 14.5% alc 1996 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Classical in style with beautiful inky dark cherry, dark plum aromas with mocha, spicy, roasted chestnut notes. Lovely evolved and stylish palate with plentiful developed dark cherry, plum, cassis fruits, fine loose-knit gravelly textures, espresso, mocha notes. Finishes firm, minerally and long. Superb balance, density and vigour. Archetypal Barossa shiraz with lovely presence and complexity. Drink now–2040. 14.5% alc
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1995 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 93
Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant cassis, apricot, sesame, ginger aromas with mocha, herb garden, dried roses notes. Inky textured wine with lovely developed cassis, apricot, strawberry fruits, fine lacy textures, roasted coffee, savoury oak complexity and persistent fresh acidity. Atypical in style and verging towards a pinot-like texture. But beautiful in its own way. A triumph for a difficult season. Drink now–keep for a while. 14% alc 1994 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 94 Deep crimson. Intense cranberry, blackcurrant, graphite aromas with some dark chocolate herb notes. Richly flavoured wine with developed choco-berry fruits, a hint of polished leather/ gamy notes, fine cedary tannins and mocha complexity. Finishes firm and tight. Powerful and complete, with attractive fruit complexity, bottle age development and vitality. Drink now–2036. 14.5% alc 1993 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Intense dark red cherry, black liquorice aromas with dark chocolate, herb, hint mint, black pepper notes. Richly flavoured supple wine with lovely pure red cherry, red plum flavours, a hint saline, persistent slinky tannins, some savoury oak nuances and fresh long indelible acidity. Finishes firm and minerally. Elegantly styled wine with attractive fruit concentration and mineral length. Drink now–2034. 14% alc 1992 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Classic blackberry dark chocolate aromas with cedar, liquorice all sorts notes. Very expressive wine with superb developed dark berry, praline flavours, fine chocolaty tannins, very good mid palate density and underlying roasted chestnut/ cedar notes. Finishes firm and minerally with a tannin plume. A reference vintage with beautiful fruit complexity, volume and torque. Drink now–2040. 14% alc
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1990 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
G 92
Medium-deep crimson. Attractive developed cassis, dark cherry, praline, espresso aromas with herb garden, sandalwood, polished leather, hint barnyard-y notes. Inky deep wine with fresh supple blackberry, cassis crème caramel flavours, fine gravelly textures, integrated acidity and developed leathery notes. Finishes claret firm with ample fruit length. Drink now–keep for a while. 13.5% alc 1988 Octavius Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant cassis, herb garden, capsicum aromas with hints of marzipan, roasted chestnuts and cloves. Fresh supple palate with evolved cassis, leafy flavours, some leathery notes, a touch of barnyard notes and underlying roasted chestnut. Finishes lacy firm and minerally. At the peak of development, but should hold. Drink now but should hold for a while. 12.3% alc
Copyright © The Vintage Journal 2023 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval system, without the prior permission in writing from the author and copyright holders.
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About the Author Andrew Caillard MW is the author of several books including Penfolds The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra, A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal) and co-authored educational books Australian Wine and A Taste Around The World of Wine . The Essence of Dreams (the history of the Mornington Peninsula’s wine industry) will be published in 2022. Andrew has also written a definitive history of Australian wine to be launched in 2023. The Vintage Journal draws on research, experience and tasting expertise gathered during over 40 years working in the secondary market, the corporate retail world, the wine media, film and painting.
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