SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE
VINTAGE JOURNAL
Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale
SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024
2025
INTRODUCTION
BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
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score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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COONAWARRA AND WRATTONBULLY
2024 Vintage launch
COONAWARRA AND WRATTONBULLY SUMMARY ANGUS HUGHSON REVIEWS ANDREW CAILLARD MW AND ANGUS HUGHSON Despite the accolades and the long history of outstanding wines, Coonawarra and Wrattonbully remain some of the most undervalued regions in Australia – if not the world. The cool climate and terra rossa soils almost magically combine to produce outstanding cabernet sauvignon relatively regularly, with the odd benchmark Shiraz. Whether it is the geographical isolation of the regions, which sit around halfway between Melbourne and Adelaide on a lonely stretch of road, or the rise of Australian big red styles, Coonawarra and Wrattonbully have failed in recent years to get the market cut-through they deserve after for a long time being a classic wine region enjoyed by a broad swathe of consumers. But after tasting the wines for this year’s guide, and also reading the tea leaves of local and international wine tastings, there is plenty of opportunity for Coonawarra to rise up in the consciousness of wine drinkers and collectors around the world. The magic of Coonawarra and Wrattonbully is in the cerebral styling of its finest wines. These are not wines with gobfuls of decadent fruit, plushness and obvious appeal, or which jump out of the glass and say ‘Look at me’. These are intellectual wines that slowly creep up before revealing their considerable charms. In a world of immediate gratification, Coonawarra is not the first pick. But change is in the air, as we are increasingly seeing consumers searching for sophistication in their experiences, including wines that offer fruit vibrancy and moderate alcohol, and this is where the south-east shines. Coonawarra is also a chameleon. Yes, there are wines that can drink well for decades, with significant structure. Yet, many of Coonawarra’s best are also remarkably approachable from a young age, offering an each-way bet of upfront flavour and drinkability coupled with sophistication and structure. While a couple of years to settle in the bottle is often ideal, in many cases, we are splitting hairs. Over 75 wines were tasted, from 17 wineries, with a number of key takeaways. Firstly, it was excellent to see consistency of quality across the board. Winemakers have clearly got a very good handle on how to craft quality wines that show both strong regional and varietal characters. Fruit ripeness and oak were generally well managed, which saw lovely purity and the class of Coonawarra’s terroir shining
brightly. Unsurprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon was the star, as it makes up the vast majority of regional plantings, but there are also some honourable mentions for Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Merlot and even Sauvignon Blanc, thanks to the considerable effort of Xavier Bizot at Terre à Terre, which remains one of the top examples of its style in the country. It is slightly surprising that more winemakers do not do the same. The classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, or vice versa, also is very much at home, particularly in Coonawarra. Coonawarra’s well known ageing potential was clear in the range of wines sampled. Wines from Yalumba, Redman and Leconfield from the 2014, 2016 and 2018 vintages, respectively, were all drinking beautifully and just starting to hit their peak. Both the 2016 Redman William Wilson Shiraz Cabernet and the Leconfield Sydney Reserve were still very vibrant and youthful, promising to offer at least a decade, if not two, of drinking pleasure. But the most exciting part of the tasting was wines from the classic 2021 and 2022 vintages. The 2021s in particular have an effortless quality as seen in the great Coonawarra vintages. The best wines have every piece in its perfect place with concentrated and focused fruit beautifully intertwined with firm yet fine tannins and a finish of extreme length. The overall consistency of this vintage is superb and it genuinely is a vintage where it is hard to go wrong. Balnaves, Redman, Terre à Terre, Wynns and Leconfield have produced what are probably their best wines in years – yes, they are really that good, and in a classic mid-weight package. But don’t discount 2022, which is a bigger, riper vintage, with some quite serious underlying power and volume of tannins. The leading wines from the vintage are not out yet, so it is hard to generalise. The 2022 vintage has certainly delivered impressive fruit density and structure that will see the wines age well, but the overall feel is that the natural balance of the 2021 vintage will see it triumph by a short nose over the long term. Time will tell.
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COONAWARRA \ Welcome to the Coonawarra Wine Region
The Reviews
Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 97
Balnaves of Coonawarra 15517 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 9am - 4.30pm Weekends & Public Holidays 11.30am - 4.30pm Phone: +61 8 8737 2946 Email: cellar@balnaves.com.au www.balnaves.com.au Banks Thargo Wines 207 Racecourse Road, Penola Opening Hours: By appointment Phone: +61 408 828 312 or +61 408 828 124 Email: info@banksthargo.com.au www.banksthargo.com.au Bellwether Wines
Ottelia 5 Memorial Drive, Coonawarra Tasting Room Opening Hours: Daily10am - 4pm (excluding public holidays) Tasting fee. Phone: +61 8 8736 3170 Email: eating@ottelia.com.au www.ottelia.com.au *Restaurant on-site: Reservations online. Parker Estate 15688 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 4pm Phone: +61 439 986 830 Email: info@parkercoonawarraestate.com.au www.parkercoonawarraestate.com.au Patrick of Coonawarra Majella Coonawarra V&A Lane, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8736 3055 Email: admin@majellawines.com.au www.majellawines.com.au Lindeman’s Coonawarra Vineyard Address: Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Wine Enquiries and General Email: lindemans@lindemans.com www.lindemans.com Nightfall Wines Mary Road, Coonawarra Phone: +61 488 771 046 Email: contact@nightfallwines.com.au www.nightfallwines.com.au 15598 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 5pm Phone: +61 8 8737 3687 Email: cellardoor@patrickofcoonawarra.com www.patrickofcoonawarra.com Penley Estate McLeans Road, Coonawarra Opening Hours: By appointment only Phone: +61 8 7078 1853 Email: marketing@penley.com.au www.penley.com.au Raidis Estate 15741 Riddoch Highway, Penola/Coonawarra Opening Hours:
(Outside)
Adelaide 375km Naracoorte 28km
Coonawarra is located half way between Melbourne and Adelaide.
Deep crimson. This intense, even and youthful expression of 2021 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a focused core of regional choc-mint, blackberry and leafy herbs well balanced by some serious French oak. An excellent volume of flavour, chewy and dense, with fresh acidity and waves of firm yet fine tannins. So young but has so much to offer – a classic in the making. Drink 2030–2045 Leconfield The Sydney Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 G 97 Deep crimson. Fruit pastille, blackcurrant juice, clay aromas with cedary notes and roasted walnut oak. Classically styled youthful Cabernet Sauvignon with focused flavours of cassis and graphite with fine balance and voluminous tannins just starting to soften while finishing with excellent length. Drink 2028–2040
N
18KM
COMAUM SCHOOL ROAD
Reschke Wines
Bellwether Wines
GLENROY-BOOL
Billy Brand Wines BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
Rymill Coonawarra
14183 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 12pm - 4pm Phone: +61 447 334 545 Email: sales@bellwetherwines.com.au www.bellwetherwines.com.au *Accommodation available – Bell tents & campsite Picnic area, BBQ & undercover seating Billy Brand Wines 61 Glenroy-Bool Lagoon Road, Coonawarra Opening Hours: By appointment only Phone: Sonya +61 447 309 280 Bill +61 408 838 447 Email: sonya@billbrandfamilyvineyards.com.au www.billybrandcoonawarra.com.au Bowen Estate (Outside) 15459 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 10am - 5pm Saturday & Sunday 10am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8737 2229 Email: bowen@bowenestate.com.au www.bowenestate.com.au
Ladbroke Grove Wines
Bundalong Coonawarra
ROCKY CASTLE ROAD
PAHL ROAD
Coonawarra Airstri p
12KM
Redman Wines
Penley Estate BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
Brand’s Laira Coonawarra
Highbank
Brand & Sons Nightfall Wines
Coonawarra Siding
Ottelia
Coonawarra Store
Brand & Sons Wines 11 Mary Road, Coonawarra Wine Enquiries: Phone: +61 488 771 046 Email: contact@brandgroup.com.au www.brandandsons.com.au Brand’s Laira Coonawarra 14860 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra
10KM
DiGiorgio Family Wines
Wynns Coonawarra Estate
Redman The Redman Cabernet Shiraz 2021
G 97
Zema Estate
Lindeman’s Coonawarra BY APPOINTMENT ONLY Jack Estate
Chardonnay Lodge
Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 9am - 4.30pm Saturday, Sunday & Public Holidays 11am - 4.00pm Phone: +61 8 8736 3260 Email: blcellardoor@brandslaira.com www.brandslaira.com.au *Free electric BBQ, petanque piste and sheltered seating Bundalong Coonawarra Pahl Road, Coonawarra Wine Enquiries: Phone: +61 408 621 947 Email: contact@bundalongcoonawarra.com.au www.bundalongcoonawarra.com.au DiGiorgio Family Wines
A classic in waiting, this 2021 Cabernet Shiraz is serene with all its pieces in perfect place. Composed and highly complex as it delivers wafts of fresh cassis, gravel, black olive, Italian herbs and peppery spice. Vibrant youthful flavours are underlined by fine and chalky tannins that hold the palate tight through to an extremely long finish. This wine will sing for years to come. Drink 2032–2050 Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 97 Deep crimson. Classical claret style wine with beautiful cassis, leafy, dark chocolate roasted chestnut, nutmeg aniseed aromas. Still elemental but well balanced wine with Bristol pure blackcurrant, dark plum praline flavours, fine-grained slightly al dente tannins and very well balanced new oak complexity. Quite taut throughout, but the acidity is crystalline and minerally. Should all fold together with time. Drink 2030–2050 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2013 G 96+ Remarkably fresh and lithe, it has developed a lovely waxy/ honeyed complexity, creamy richness and al-dente textures. A refreshing quartz-like acidity runs through it. The Terre à Terre Sauvignon Blancs are an outlying style from an Australian perspective, but quite classic (and better value) when compared to Bordeaux Blanc. Drink now–2030
St Mary’s Distillery and Garden
Majella Coonawarra
Weekdays 11am - 5.00pm Saturday 12pm - 5:30pm
6KM
V&A LANE
V&A LANE
Sundays & Public Holidays 12pm - 4pm All other times, tasting by appointment
Punters Vineyard Retreat
St Hugo Wines
Katnook Estate
Phone: +61 488 165 170 Email: sales@raidis.com.au www.raidis.com.au
MAAOUPE ROAD
Riddoch Coonawarra Coonawarra Wine Enquiries: Phone: 1300 721 920 Email: ben.tolstoshev@edg.com.au www.riddochcoonawarra.com.au Reschke Coonawarra 63 Magarey Lane, Glenroy Wine Enquiries: Phone: +61 8 8362 6135 Email: admin@reschke.com.au www.reschke.com.au (Outside) Rymill Coonawarra 110 Clayfield Road, Glenroy Opening Hours: Summer/Autumn/Spring - 10am-5pm Daily Redman Wines 14830 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 9am - 5pm Saturday, Sunday & Public Holidays 11am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8736 3331 Email: wines@redman.com.au www.redman.com.au
Riddoch Coonawarra
Bowen Estate
Leconfield Coonawarra
14918 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 5pm including most Public Holidays Phone: +61 8 8736 3222 Email: cellardoor@digiorgio.com.au www.digiorgio.com.au Highbank Vineyards Wine Enquiries: Phone: +61 427 653 311 Email: dennis@terrarossa.wine www.highbank.wine
Balnaves of Coonawarra
Yalumba Menzies Estate Vineyard BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
Patrick of Coonawarra
Banks Thargo Wines BY APPOINTMENT ONLY
Hollick Estates
3KM
Parker Estate
Hollick Estates 11 Racecourse Road, Penola Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 10am - 5pm Saturday & Sunday 11am - 5pm
Public Holidays 11am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8737 2318 Email: admin@hollick.com www.hollick.com
Winter - 10am - 4pm Daily Phone: +61 8 8736 5001 Email: cellar.door@rymill.com.au www.rymill.com.au
Whistle Post Wines
St Hugo Wines Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Wine Enquiries: Phone: 1300 162 992 Email: enquiries@sthugo.com www.sthugo.com Whistle Post Wines 15712 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Friday - Sunday 11am - 6pm Open for special events and holidays periods. (Outside) Wynns Coonawarra Estate 77 Memorial Drive, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Wednesday 10am - 5pm Thursday - Sunday 10am - 6pm Phone: +61 8 8736 2274 Email: info@wynnscellardoor.com.au www.wynns.com.au Yalumba Menzies Estate Vineyard 15542 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: By appointment only Monday - Friday Phone: +61 8 8737 3603 Email: menzies@yalumba.com www.yalumba.com *Accommodation available Yalumba Menzies Vineyard Retreat Other times by appointment. Phone: +61 404 191 919 Email: info@whistlepost.com.au www.whistlepost.com.au (Outside) Zema Estate 14944 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 9am - 5pm Saturday, Sunday & Public Holidays 10am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8736 3219 Email: zemaestate@zema.com.au www.zema.com.au
Jack Estate 15025 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: By appointment & during regional events
Raidis Est ate
Must @ Coonawarra
Phone: +61 8 8736 3130 Email: info@jackestate.com www.jackestate.com
Coonawarra Vignerons O ce
Prince of Wales Hotel
DISTANCES HEADING NORTH FROM PENOLA
Leconfield Coonawarra 15454 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Daily 11am - 4pm Phone: +61 8 8737 2326 Email: coonawarra@leconfieldwines.com www.leconfieldcoonawarra.com Phone: +61 8 8737 3222 Email: wine@koonara.com www.koonara.com Ladbroke Grove Wines 14487 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Wine Enquiries: Phone: +61 417 855 495 or +61 401 054 225 Email: admin@ladbrokegrove.com.au www.ladbrokegrove.com.au Katnook Estate 15310 Riddoch Highway, Coonawarra Opening Hours: Monday - Friday 10am - 5pm Saturday & Sunday 12noon - 5pm Public Holidays 10am - 5pm Phone: +61 8 8737 0300 Email: cellardoor@katnookestate.com.au www.katnookestate.com.au (Outside) Koonara Wines 44 Church Street, Penola Opening Hours: Daily 10am - 4pm
Koonara Wines
Penola Town Centre
Royal Oak Hotel Red Shack Café
Pipers of Penola
Alexander Cameron Suites
Penola Coonawarra Caravan Park
Platter & Picnic Style Foods
In-House Restaurant
Cellar Door
No Cellar Door
Coonawarra Wineries Walking Trail
Accommodation Available
Public Toilets
Mt Gambier 52km Melbourne 450km
Daily direct flights from Adelaide & Melbourne to Mount Gambier
Vegan Wine
Child Friendly
Dog Friendly
Wheelchair Access
Iconic Landmark
Map is not to scale and is to be used as a guide only. Wineries and cellar doors displayed on this map represent members of the Coonawarra Vignerons Association 24/25FY.
Keep our Vines and Wines safe South Australia has some of the oldest winegrape vines in the world. Your shoes and clothing can pick up and spread pests and diseases, including phylloxera. Please don’t walk amongst our vines. Help protect the vines that make our special wines. For more information about vineyard biosecurity visit www.vinehealth.com.au
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Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2022
G 96+
G 96
From a more classic growing season, also showed the benefit of an extra year of bottle age with attractive dark berry fruits, a touch of praline and herb garden. The structure is also fine grained, a touch weightier than the 2022, but finishing firm and long. The cabernet (66%) dominates, but the shiraz also complements the framework beautifully.Terre à Terre’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon series is based on the best parcels of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and shiraz. The wines are more strident and dense, reflecting the selection process and the need for sufficient concentration and flavour to work with 100% new oak maturation. Drink 2028– 2038 G 96 Deep crimson. Fine and detailed aromas of fruit pastilles and black olive with wafts of old leather and roasted walnut oak. Well proportioned with a compact core of gravel and blackcurrant flavour accented by weighty tannins. Elegantly proportioned and compact before delivering a long and well defined finish. Classically styled and exceptional value. Drink 2032–2043
Aged in seasoned French oak for 14 months, it’s elemental and vigorous (as it should be) with a classical claret-like structure. It was also the highlight of four vintages (2014,2018,2021 & 2022). Intense cassis/ pure blackcurrant, blackberry hint brambly fruits are underpinned by fine-grained cedary/ firm tannins and roasted walnut, hint mocha notes. The Shiraz part of the blend (43%) brings an overall roundness and mid palate buoyancy. The wine has excellent flow and torque, suggesting a long life ahead in the cellar. Drink 2028–2042
Terre à Terre Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
G 96+
Is a cracker, but an idiosyncratic wine; much in the same way as Bordeaux’s Château Tertre Roteboeuf. It’s the type of claret style that would win a prize in the Australian Burgundy classes of yore. Voluminous and inky deep, it show lifted cassis, cedar, dried apricot, hint wood varnish aromas and flavours, fine supple/slinky textures and well-integrated roasted chestnut notes. This is a terrific ‘vin de garde’ with all the elements for long term ageing. A high water mark for Terre à Terre. Drink 2032–2048
G 96
G 96
Deep crimson. Blackberry, hint elderberry, chinotto, praline aromas and flavours with attractive roasted chestnut, vanilla crème brûlée notes, fine chocolaty textures and superbly integrated oak. Impressively balanced with plenty of years ahead. Drink 2030–2048
Deep crimson. A classic with poised and focused aromas of graphite and cassis with a strong leafy lift with balanced oak. Excellent volume of flavour, again compact and focused driving through to a long, linear finish. Serious stuff. Drink 2026–2040
Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
G 96
Brand & Sons Sanctuary Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot 2021
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Intense cassis, dark cherry, mulberry, vanilla, mint aromas with hints of stone fruit. Expressive claret-style with pure blackcurrant, dark cherry fruits, classical grainy firm tannins, some roasted chestnut vanilla notes and well- integrated fresh linear acidity. Lovely mid-palate inky density and complexity. Finishes cedary/ spicy with graphite/ leafy notes. A reference Coonawarra Cabernet that should continue to age very well. 18 months’ maturation in 20% new and seasoned French and Hungarian hogsheads. Drink now–2035
Deep crimson with a strong claret feel as it radiates with graphite and fruit pastille aromas with excellent purity and quality oak, everything well controlled, refined and in its place. Generously proportioned yet fine powdery tannins provide excellent support to rivers of fresh and vibrant flavour that build to a lengthy finish. Very young but very good. Drink 2028–2040
Balnaves of Coonawarra Shiraz 2021
G 95
Heirloom Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 96
Deep crimson. Poised blackberry, black olive, fruit pastille with roasted clove and walnut complexity. Excellent tension and drive, as chalky textures underpin fine rivers of flavour with excellent balance and length. A benchmark Coonawarra Shiraz that will cellar well. Drink 2028–2040
Medium-deep crimson. Poised aromas of blackberry, chocolate, and dried herbs with old leather notes. Fresh blackcurrant and gravel flavours, deep firm tannins before a long structural finish. Impressive stuff. Drink 2030–2040
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Parker Estate First Growth Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Merlot Cabernet Franc 2019
G 95
G 95
Deep crimson and delivering a rich core of savoury blackberry, dried herbs and red earth aromas with mahogany oak influences. Firm and dry, with powerful layers of vibrant dark berry flavour well supported by rich veins of chewy tannins to
This broody and densely packed 2019 Merlot Cabernet Franc is exceptional and offers up muscular aromas of meat stock, blackberry and graphite with a strong backbone of new French oak. That density continues on the palate with a firm tannic overall feel – a strong core of gravel, graphite and baked earth flavours tightly bound over an extremely long finish. A wine best left at least ten years to see its best. Drink 2035–2044 Taylors Masterstroke Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 95 Medium-deep colour. Blackcurrant pastille, hint menthol aromas with hints of vanilla. Lovely pure blackcurrant, blackberry fruits, fine grainy tannins and well- integrated vanilla, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes grainy firm and long. Beautifully balanced claret style with lovely volume, density and vigour. Drink now–2034 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Messenger Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 94+ Medium crimson. Fresh inky, cassis, sage aromas with hints of espresso. Supple cassis, vanilla hint roasted chestnut, marzipan flavours and persistent fine- grained tannins. Finishes long with pastille like notes. Lovely flow and mineral length. Drink 2030–2042 Balnaves of Coonawarra Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon NV G 94 Made with Reserve wines from 10 vintages, this unique and stylish sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon radiates with dark cherry, blackberry and blackcurrant aromas with chocolate and leafy tones. More cerebral and savoury than packed full of up-front fruit, although with a touch of residual sweetness, there is impressive complexity with cedary/mushroom tones adding plenty of interest to the
finish. Drink 2030–2042 Parker Estate 95 Block Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2022
G 95
Deep crimson. Plush, generous aromas of blackberry, graphite and new leather with spicy, cedar notes. Weighty fruit and tannins to follow with fresh acidity driving a long and strong finish. Drink 2028–2036 Penfolds Bin 128 Shiraz 2022 G 95 Deep crimson. Attractive pure cassis, blackberry pastille violet aromas with underlying spice, vanilla notes. Velvety textured and concentrated wine with superb blackcurrant, blackberry, dark cherry fruits, fine grained tannins and well- balanced mocha, vanilla notes. A cedar firm finish with mineral notes. A lovely Bin 128 vintage 14.5% alc Drink 2028–2040 Penfolds Bin 169 Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 95 Deep crimson. Intense blackcurrant, dark chocolate aromas with cedar, bush garrigue/ hint menthol, chinotto notes. Classical in structure with inky deep dark cherry, cassis, blackcurrant fruits, fine grainy/ graphite textures and well-balanced marzipan mocha oak notes. Builds up leafy/ grippy firm at the finish with ample pure dark berry fruits and demi-glace nuances. A classic Coonawarra Claret style. This stylish single vineyard 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is poised with a beautifully formed core of blackcurrant, graphite and dried herbs with a finely woven seam of French oak. Tight and firm with a juicy core of fruit and dense powdery tannins superbly balanced and driving a seriously long finish. An excellent inaugural vintage. Drink 2030–2040 Redman Wines William Wilson Shiraz Cabernet 2016 G 95 Deep crimson. Powerful and ripe blackberry, liquorice and spice aromas. Full- flavoured with waves of youthfully blackberry just starting to open up with red earthy tones backed by a strong, drying oak influence. Old-fashioned but impressive. Drink 2026–2035 14.5% alc Drink Now–2040 Redman The First Divide Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 95
finish. Drink now–2027 Brand & Sons Old Town Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 94
There is excellent poise and precision to be found in this 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, which delivers graphite, gravel, leafy herb and fruit pastille aromas with roasted walnut oak. Seductive fleshy textures are driven by youthful, energetic flavours underpinned by pliable tannins. Approachable now but also an excellent mid-term
ageing proposition. Drink 2026–2035 Brand & Sons Glenroy Single Vineyard Shiraz 2021
G 94
This bold and expressive 2021 Shiraz is a modern Coonawarra style with relative lashings of ripe, plush flavours with a strong oak counterpoint. Excellent volume of flavour and sandy tannins follow which build to a strong finish. Drink 2023–2035
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Cirillo Estate Wines, 1850 Grenache
Parker Estate Kidman Block Shiraz 2023
Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Wrattonbully Cabernet Shiraz 2019
G 94
G 94
A warm and dry vintage for the region in 2019, which helped ensure that the Whalebone Vineyard, planted 45 years ago, had a very small yield. The wine is a blend of 85% Cabernet and 15% Shiraz. The Shiraz comes from the Crayères Vineyard. After destemming, the two varieties were fermented separately, after cold soaking. A week’s maceration on skins followed. Malolactic fermentation was in French oak barriques, half new and half single use, before 17 months of maturation. 670 dozen under cork. Deep maroon in colour, the nose gives aromas of black fruits, warm earth, cigar box notes, tobacco leaves and toasty oak. There are hints of vanilla, nutmeg, chocolate, dried herbs and cassis. Showing good length and fine tannins, this is an attractive style for drinking over the best part of the next decade. Drink now–2034 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Shiraz 2020 G 94 This dark and heavy set blend of 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz is brooding and sitting quietly for its time to shine. Dark gravel and blackberry aromas are enriched by graphite, clove spice and wrought iron with savoury tones from long oak ageing. Flavours are tight and muscular with deep set tannins leading to a strong and closed finish. Very young but very good and built for the long haul. Drink 2032–2045 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Shiraz 2022 G 94 This quite charming and reserved 2022 Cabernet Shiraz is a little shy right now but feels adolescent rather than dilute. It delivers refined aromas of red currant, and black currant topped by subtle dark earth and measured oak. Graphite and gravel flavours are then wrapped in a core of chewy tannins which support a generous finish. Excellent balance with an even shape and lingering finish suggest this will age well. Drink 2028–2036 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Old Vines Shiraz 2022 G 94 Medium-deep crimson. Aromatic and elegantly styled with white pepper, blackberry, mulberry aromas with hints of dark chocolate. Well-balanced with ample dark berry fruits, fine chocolate textures. Attractive mid palate volume and well integrated acidity. A fine tannin plume at the finish. Drink 2026–2035
Deep crimson. Brooding blackberry, cherry liqueur and sandalwood aromas with a strong backbone of sweet oak. Blackberry, graphite and blackcurrant flavours enriched by a firm backbone of chewy tannins with some attractive tobacco leaf notes to finish. Drink 2028–2035 Redman Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 94 This 2022 Cabernet is bold for Coonawarra but still holds its shape admirably. Powerful slaty blackcurrant aromas are lifted by touches of oregano and bay leaf with sweet blackberry in support. Dry, sturdy and strong with a dense core of drying tannins accented by juicy acidity. Generous ripeness but all kept in check nicely with cherry liqueur accents to finish. Drink 2030–2040 Redman Coonawarra Shiraz 2022 G 94 This immediately enticing 2022 Shiraz offers up a delicious mix of sweet and savoury with choc blackberry aromas lifted by strong scents of toasted cloves and wood smoke. Vibrant yet measured, with excellent overall purity and a solid base of tannins. Slightly closed with a long, tight finish now but has the integrity and balance to build nicely. Drink 2030–2042 Redman The Last Row Shiraz 2022 G 94 Crafted with fruit off 80- and 100-year-old vines, this ethereal 2022 Shiraz is something special and right now only teases with aromas of blackberry, camphor, cassis and dried mint with a strong seam of peppery spice amplified by finely tuned oak. Excellent concentration and balance from old vines is the key, with a firm yet seamless bed of dense tannins adding significant structure. Fantastic energy to this wine provides a promising future. Drink 2030–2042 Smith & Hooper Cabernet Merlot 2022 G 94 Deep crimson. Bold aromas of cassis, roasted meats and choc-mint with cedary/ spicy hints. Powerful liquorice, gravel and chocolate flavours are underscored by muscular tannins with a strong, structural finish.. Drink 2028–2034
Balnaves of Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2021
G 93
Deep crimson. Refined with classic blackberry, boot leather, choc-mint, blackcurrant and gravel aromas with cedar notes. Excellent concentration with ample flavour and tannins working in harmony through to a long, yet youthful finish. Drink 2026–2035
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Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2022
Balnaves of Coonawarra Chardonnay 2023
G 93
G 93
This young and tightly packed blend of Cabernet Franc and Shiraz teases with aromas of blackberry, and graphite with a base of dark chocolate plus a dusting of dried herbs. Bone dry with prodigious tannins and immense power, this is a massive wine that is built for the serious long haul. Don’t both even thinking about opening a bottle for at least 10 years. Drink 2035–2045 Wynns Coonawarra Estate V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz 2022 G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Cassis, blackberry, herb garden aromas with sage hint mint notes. Fresh slinky textured wine with blackcurrant, dark plum, fruits, fine loose knit chalky touch leafy tannins combined with savoury oak; the Shiraz gives buoyancy of fruit and fills the mid palate but still an elegant style. Drink now–2030 Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Well evolved Cabernet with cassis, espresso, tobacco leaf, touch capsicum aromas. Inky deep palate with ample dark berry fruits, roasted coffee, tobacco leaf, black olive, chinotto notes, al-dente/ leafy/ grippy textures, attractive mid-palate density and hints of vanilla, marzipan. Finishes grippy and long. A firm claret style with lovely volume and mineral length. 20 months maturation in 36% new and seasoned French and Hungarian hogsheads. Drink now–2030 Yalumba The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 93 Deep crimson. Classic choc-mint, lifted cedar and chocolate aromas. Precise blackcurrant and leafy flavours with a strong line of fine yet firm tannins bode well for the future. Drink 2026–2034 Barristers Block The Bully Shiraz 2022 G 92 Medium-deep crimson. Approachable aromas of crushed spices, mulberry and blackberry are accented by creamy oak nuances. Chocolate and mixed spice flavours to follow, with tight, blocky tannins. This wine needs time to soften. Drink 2026–2032 Brand & Sons Sanctuary Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot 2019 G 92 This big, chunky and slightly heavy-set 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon is packed full of chocolate, fruit compote and liquorice aromas with bold sweet oak. Full-throttle acidity and tannins combine with decadent flavours, with lead pencil oak dominant to finish. Drink 2030–2040 Brand & Sons Family Reserve Cabernets Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot 2021 G 92 This well-constructed and mouth-filling 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is punchy with blackberry, minty and strong herbal tones providing strong typicity. A muscular, tannin-driven palate follows that is firm and drying with warm blackberry flavours accented by clovey oak. A sleeper that needs a little time to settle. Drink 2027–2033
Mid straw. Powerful with peach nectar, nectarine and mango aromas wrapped up in a thick blanket of cedary oak. Opening with a burst of tangy-ness before settling into topical tones lifted by savoury oak handling. Well put together but needs some time to settle. Drink 2026–2030
Brand & Sons Baker’s Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 93
Deep crimson and classically styled with well poised and focused aromas of graphite and cassis with excellent purity. Mid weight and still quite tight with impressive palate tension and quite firm tannins illustrating a wine that will age well although needs a little time to build. Drink 2026–2032 Leconfield Cabernet Franc 2022 G 93 Deep crimson. Complex gravel, violet and blackberry aromas with graphite hints. Well defined with chewy textures and brooding dark berry fruit power supported by firm tannins that deliver a strong finish. Drink 2030–2042 Leconfield Old Vines Riesling 2024 G 93 50-year-old vines this year deliver a flavoursome style bursting with honeysuckle and dried lime aromas with notes of spice. Quite textural with well integrated acidity driving a youthful finish, which should age well. Drink 2026–2032 Parker Estate Terra Rossa Merlot 2023 G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Pretty and refined dark cherry and mulberry aromas are accented with leafy/cedary notes. Fleshy blackberry, blackcurrant and gravel flavours with silky textures fan out to a fine yet detailed finish with attractive density and depth of tannins. Drink 2025–2032 Raïdis Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Strong herbal tones precede a rich core of blackberry and graphite, with mahogany complexity. Approachable and well concentrated showing more slatey cassis and coffee grounds flavours with superb tannin management. A sleeper, but lots to like. Drink 2036–2035 Raïdis Wines Mama Goat Merlot 2022 G 93 Medium-deep crimson. Fruit pastille, mulberry and blackberry aromas with notes of dried herbs. Good concentration of dark cherry, blackberry flavours, fresh acidity and grainy tannins with a touch leafy fruit rising over a lengthy finish. Drink now–2030
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Eight at the Gate Family Selection Shiraz 2021
Smith & Hooper Pinot Grigio 2024
G 92
G 92
Medium straw. Generous red apple, pear and musk aromas with a gentle spicy lift. Flavoursome and bold for a Grigio style with al-dente acidity to underpin a lingering, finely tuned finish. Drink now–2027 Stonehaven Limited Vineyard Release Shiraz 2021 G 92 Deep crimson. Reserved fruit pastille, liquorice and crushed spice aromas with aniseed notes. Well pitched with open-knit textures punctuated by oak tannins which all flesh out nicely on the finish. Drink now–2030 Wynns Coonawarra Estate V&A Lane Shiraz 2022 G 92 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive blackberry pastime, mulberry, cassis aromas with herb garden sage notes. Chocolaty and slightly grippy with abundant blackberry, praline flavours, fine gravely tannins and underlying vanilla notes. Finished claret firm. Drink 2026–2034 Balnaves of Coonawarra The Blend Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot 2021 G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Fleshy mulberry and blackberry aromas to open with herbal/cedary notes. Dense and firm to start before fleshing out with good support from chalky tannins to finish. Drink 2026–2030 Barristers Block Millie Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Attractive and vibrant aromas of choc-mint, cocoa and graphite with leafy notes. A flavoursome yet supple palate follows with slightly firm-edged tannins to finish. Drink 2025–2028 Brand & Sons Last Sunday Drive Cabernet Franc 2021 G 91 Deep crimson. Open knit and strongly varietal aromas of leafy blackcurrants are topped with a touch of gravel which deliver a well-pitched and attractive opening. Fleshy textures with well weighted chocolate and dark berry flavours follow suit before softening on the finish. Drink 2025–2030 Brand & Sons Fire & Ice Shiraz 2021 G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Juicy vibrant dark cherry and clove aromas with cola hints and touches of vanilla. Chalky textures and al dente tannins then underpin reserved dark berry flavours with strong spicy undertones before firm acidity drives the finish. Drink now–2029
Deep crimson. Fleshy vibrant aromas of mulberry and blackberry with liquorice allsorts notes. Spicy plummy flavours show good balance with grainy tannins before fleshing out on the finish. Drink now–2029 Leconfield Merlot 2022 G 92 Mid-deep crimson. Ample blackberry, blackcurrant and olive tapenade aromas are lifted by cedar notes. Generously flavoured with firm/al-dente tannins which tighten up to a drying finish. Quite classic but needs a couple of years to flesh out. Drink 2026–2034
Parker Estate Cool Climate Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 92
Deep crimson. Fragrant choc mint, cedar and blackberry aromas with notes of sandalwood. Juicy cassis, dried herb and cedar flavours are underpinned by gentle al-dente tannins to support a fine, lingering finish. Drink now–2028
Parker Estate Terra Rossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
G 92
Deep crimson. Elegant aromas of mulberry and red currant lifted by prominent balanced leafy notes and roasted walnut oak. Vibrant with crisp acidity that supports reserved blackcurrant and graphite flavours accented with chalky tannins. Already approachable but will hold nicely. Drink 2025–2030 Parker Estate Terra Rossa Shiraz 2023 G 92 Deep crimson. Reserved choc-berry, toasted clove, cherry liqueur aromas with roasted walnut notes. Supple and fleshy with open-knit plum and cocoa flavours accented by fresh, ripe tannins with a spicy and vibrant conclusion, accented by vanillin oak. Drink now–2030 Reschke Bull Trader Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 92 Medium crimson. Chocolate and blackberry aromas with notes of fresh cedar. Vibrant blackcurrant flavours are unashamedly fruit-forward, well concentrated and sustained with good support from supple tannins. Drink now–2028 Reschke Vitulus Shiraz 2022 G 92 Deep crimson. Oak-driven style with fresh cedar aromas leading the cart, supported by plump blackberry and blackcurrant. Fleshy cherry flavours are approachable with al-dente tannins providing some support to enjoy over the short to medium term. Drink now–2030
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Brand & Sons Honeysuckle Riesling 2024
Redman Coonawarra Cabernet Merlot 2021
G 91
G 91
This open-knit and approachable 2021 Cabernet Merlot blend delivers generous aromas of mulberry and dark earth with a dusting of dried herbs. Fresh upfront acidity with restrained flavours of redcurrant is supported by firm, chewy tannins. Built for the cellar. Drink 2026–2034 Smith & Hooper Merlot 2022 G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Concentrated and focused aromas of blackberry and gravel with cedary hints. Mouth-filling with fruit pastille, dried herbs and chocolatey tones while fine yet firm tannins will provide some longevity. Drink now–2030 Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2023 G 91 This is a more delicate expression of the Crayères vineyard thanks to the cool vintage which is not necessarily a bad thing. The more generous Wrattonbully style has tightened up delivering classic chalky, herbal citrus aromas, with tightly reined oak. Super zesty with mouth-watering acidity, which drives a firm angular palate. Length is good while the fruit needs time to build. Drink 2027–2030
Pale straw. Exotic aromas of melon and nectarine with pear notes showcase a richer, flavoursome style. Crisp acidity and measured sweetness deliver a wine with significant upfront appeal which holds over a sustained and balanced finish. Drink now–2026 Eight at the Gate Cabernet Shiraz 2021 G 91 Deep crimson. Pure fruit pastille, dark cherry, red earth aromas with camphor notes. Bone dry with open-knit blackburn/blackberry flavours before strong herbal tones rise up on the finish. Drink now–2028 Leconfield Blanc de Blancs Sparkling NV G 91 Mid straw with a creamy bead. Gentle aromas of citrus peel and melon are lifted by subtle brioche complexity. Well crafted with both vibrancy and attractive detail before delivering a creamy finish. Drink now–2026 Parker Estate Cool Climate Shiraz 2021 G 91 Deep crimson. Fleshy blackberry, musky plum and aromatic spice aromas with sandalwood notes. Supple textures with juicy choc berry, espresso flavours well matched to al-dente tannins on a finish of reasonable length. Drink now–2028 Parker Estate Cool Climate Chardonnay 2023 G 91 Mid straw. Well-pitched melon and citrus aromas are lifted by a nice touch of savoury oak. Peach and nectarine flavours to follow in a compact package with integrated acidity and an attractive, lingering finish. Drink now–2027 Raïdis Wines Billy Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 91 Medium-deep crimson. Plump blackberry, blackcurrant and cedar aromas with a faint varnish lift. Expressive and fleshy layers of blackberry and dried herb flavours build nicely clipped by slightly hard tannins and a tight finish. Drink 2025–2030 Raïdis Wines Laila Rosé 2024 G 91 Pale salmon pink. Refined aromas of white strawberry, rose petals with spicy notes. A dry yet fruity palate follows with complexing layers of spice and dried herbs lingering pleasantly on the finish. Drink now–2026
Jim Brand Silent Partner Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 90
Medium-deep crimson. Approachable choc mint and blackberry aromas with subtle dried herb hints. Mid-weight, chocolaty and grippy with gravelly earthy tones and fresh acidity topped by spicy oak before a firm-edgy finish. Drink 2026–2033 Petaluma White Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 90 This finely tuned 2021 Coonawarra Cabernet delivers an attractive mix of leafy cassis aromas against a background of dark earths. Light weight, expressive and sinewy in style, this is a solid effort that will appeal to fans of traditional Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink 2025–2030 Raïdis Wines The Kelpie Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 90 Pale straw. Classic lifted passionfruit, cut grass aromas with hints of lantana and guava. Lightweight and silky in style with attractive fruit sweetness to finish. Drink now–2026 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 90 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant, herb garden aromas with hints of graphite and spice. Inky deep blackcurrant pastille, earthy, black olive flavours, fine slinky al dente textures and underlying savoury oak. Medium bodied style. Drink 2025–2034
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