SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE
VINTAGE JOURNAL
Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale
SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024
2025
INTRODUCTION
BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
South Australia 2024
1
score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
South Australia 2024
3
8
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
9
CLARE VALLEY
Jim Barry, Florita Vineyard, Clare Valley, 2022
CLARE VALLEY
Still, one of the biggest hurdles to climb for Clare Riesling makers is sweetness. ‘One of our challenges as a region is continuing to educate consumers around the misconception that rieslings are overly sweet,’ explains Jason Crane at Crabtree Wines. ‘Clare Valley Riesling, especially from Watervale and Polish Hill, is known for its balance and precision,’ he stresses. Shiraz from Clare has traditionally been touted as full of flavour, character and strength. It is not shy. What it can be and what some producers are exploring, is a Shiraz more medium bodied in flavours that can be described as ‘savoury’ or ‘elegant’, or ‘softer’ and ‘juicier.’ Many are now produced to be more approachable at a younger age. Then there’s the question of oak: less is often better, and the more aggressive qualities of American oak are gradually giving way to the finer influence of French. When it comes to Shiraz, the ‘Focus is on delivering primary fruit character that shows its regionality,’ explains Nick Walker, of O’Leary Walker. We note some producers choose ‘Syrah’ over Shiraz in order to presumably endow the wine with a more expressive, cooler climate attitude. Sometimes, that is borne out in the glass. The higher altitude ridges of the Valley, which can reach up to 465 metres above sea level, offer some distinctive styles. Behind Shiraz in total tonnes crushed each vintage is Cabernet Sauvignon, which continues to be a major focus for Clare producers. However, climate change is signalling some minor adjustments. ‘Climate change has certainly influenced the way we approach our signature varieties,’ notes Kurt Larson, hospitality manager at Tim Adams and Mr Mick Wines. ‘Drier winters and warmer growing seasons have led to earlier ripening, impacting acidity and alcohol levels.’ He adds, ‘Whilst the traditional varieties still retain their regional footprint, we’ve had to adjust our vineyard practices, such as the timing of harvest.’ Maximising the grape’s naturally elegant expression while at the same time not losing structure or varietal flavour integrity (and avoiding looking like sweet- fruited Shiraz) continues to be a goal for Clare winemakers. Taylor’s shines the brightest and most ambitious light on the grape, producing a $1000-a-bottle aged release, The Legacy. New rising stars? Well, the jury is still out, but there is a range of definite contenders. Grenache, which has previously been joined by Shiraz and Mataro/Mourvèdre in
SUMMARY JENI PORT REVIEWS JENI PORT AND LISA CARDELLI
Wine is in a constant state of change. This is especially true in a wine region like the Clare Valley with more than 150 years of winemaking already on the board. The groundwork for the next 150 years is already being laid in the planting of ‘alternative’ grape varieties, moves to organic certification, sustainable production, and changes in winemaking styles to reflect a younger and more adventurous consumer, as well as going head to head with the biggest question mark of all: dealing with a shifting climate. Fortunately, we don’t have to wait long to see and taste most of those changes. Many are already there, in the glass. The emergence of alternative varieties such as nero d’Avola, grüner veltliner, fiano, tempranillo, sangiovese, primitivo and a host of other grapes now going into the ground is undoubtedly one of the more exciting aspects of discovering the wines of the Clare Valley. They bring an added dimension to the great triumvirate of riesling, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, which remain the foundation of everything that is Clare Valley wine. The star of this year’s tasting was undoubtedly Riesling. Producers were blessed with a rare trio of outstanding vintages in 2021, 2022 and 2023. Principal Riesling sub- regions of Watervale and Polish Hill River delivered their usual highly individual takes on the grape, combining a mix of beauty and elegance (Watervale) and concentrated power (Polish Hill River) across what were three fabulous vintages. Might one or all of those years live up to the fabled 2002 or 2017 Clare Riesling vintages? Time will tell, but the 2021, with a classic mix of lifted aromatics and lime essence, has that special X-factor quality to give it a shot. As for the 2024 vintage, the early bird wines now released show promise but generally not the same intensity. ‘The 2024 Riesling we brought in all came in at lower baumes than previous vintages [’22 and ’23] largely as we saw bright fruit and appealing natural acids’, says Carissa Major, general manager of Claymore Wines. ‘Let the vineyard tell you when to pick.’
168
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
169
GSM blends, is becoming a major solo player with some producers actively pursuing exciting new projects. In 2016, Bourke & Travers planted mourvèdre on flats lying adjacent to Armagh Creek, and in 2021, put down close-planted bush vine grenache on a steep hill, at times through broken rock. And very soon Crabtree is set to release a special Sevenhill Grenache and a single block Grenache from vines planted in 1932. Clare Grenache is definitely having a moment outside its role in tasty GSMs. Producers are also moving full throttle into alternative or emerging grape varieties.
‘Riesling, Shiraz and Cabernet are iconic’, says Jason Crane at Crabtree Wines, ‘and we have a loyal following for those varietals. However, experimenting with alternative varieties is where the real excitement lies in winemaking.’ In whites, Fiano is showing some fantastic qualities in the Valley. In reds, we are seeing some particularly attractive Nero d’Avola, tempranillo, and sangiovese. ‘These varieties are lighter in weight than our traditional reds and display bright, inviting primary fruit characteristics supported by structure of acid and/or natural grape tannin’, says Carissa Major at Claymore, about the company’s Sangiovese, Tempranillo and Montepulciano. ‘They are also lifestyle friendly and really fit with a modern wine drinking culture where we see more people enjoying lighter, food friendly reds.’ ‘Essentially:, she adds, ‘they are fun and meant to be enjoyed in youth as bright, sparkly young things.’ Many of these newer varieties are late budding, late ripening, and well suited to the soils and Clare topography. They also hold their acidity in the heat and provide flexibility in winemaking. These qualities will undoubtedly become more of a focus in light of reduced rainfall, increasingly dry winter and spring conditions, and significantly earlier harvests predicted not just for the Clare Valley but for much of Australia. Clare Valley winemakers seem more than ready for the challenges.
170
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
171
Clare Valley Aerodrome To Flinders Ranges & Outback R.M. Williams Way
Barinia
The Reviews
Stanley Flat
racecourse
White Hut
Rieslingfreak No. 10 Zenit Riesling 2024
G 98
B82
It takes a moment, like that split second that seems to last an eternity, before revealing fragrant jasmine, Tahitian lime, lemongrass and yuzu aromas. The palate is layers of pure citrus juice and refined chalky flavours. Like Luke Skywalker’s lightsabre, it cuts through effortlessly while irradiating pure light. Drink now–2046
Jim Barry Wines
To Burra
Gleeson Wetlands
Clare
Ragu & Co Antidote Kitchen Knappstein Wines Seed Clare Valley
Kilometres
Brooks Lookout
•
Indii of Clare
Armagh
0
1
2
3
4
Bentley's Hotel
Jim Barry Clarevale Cabernet Malbec 2021
Old Police Station Museum
G 96
To Blyth
Mr. Mick Wines
Neagles Rock Lookout
Open the bottle and wait . . . Clarevale takes time to deliver, and when it does, it comes in almost stealth mode, ever so precise and alluring. There’s a perfume, the best word to describe the fine scent of red plum, blueberry, bramble, sage, violet, dried herbs and woodsmoke. On the palate it draws a fine line of tannin upon which is embedded an earthy, ferrous-mineral element – quite intriguing – alongside layers of elegant, long-living, well-delivered flavour. A modern Shiraz perfectly in balance. Drink now–2042 Jim Barry The Florita Riesling 2024 G 96 A treasured vineyard and piece of Clare Valley wine history with a most distinctive complexity and fineness of Riesling expression, The Florita never disappoints. The ’24 boasts alluring florals, lifted and aromatic, in spring blossom and white flowers – so darn pretty – that infiltrate every aspect of the wine together with citrus, bath salts and apple, all dressed in a flinty, dry acidity. Seems a simple recipe, but the seamless integration and overall balance is quite something. Florita brings focus and drive and an almost timeless sense of what it means to be Clare Riesling. All class. Drink now–2040 Jim Barry Spring Farm Block 73 Shiraz 2021 G 96 Another stealth bomb from the Barry brothers, one that definitely gets under your skin ever so quietly, but superbly, irresistibly well. Works against the trad model for Clare Shiraz, choosing a route that takes you down a path dressed in blue fruits, plum, black cherry, sage, aniseed, all firmly positioned and precise. Some light savoury meaty influences are flagged, chalky, fine tannins are in motion, spices are on alert, flavours are poised and fine and the overall effect is complex and super elegant. Will keep on keeping on. Drink now–2040
Ampol Roadhouse
Tim Adams Wines Clare Valley Distillery Clare Showgrounds
To Burra
Clare Valley Wine, Food & Tourism Centre
Quarry Hill Lookout
Jaeschkes Hill River Clare Estate
Shut the Gate Wines & Mr Nobody Cellar Door
Sussex Squire Wines
St Aloysius Church Sevenhill Cellars
Polish Hill River Church Museum Pikes Wines & Pikes Beer Co.
The Wilson Vineyard
Slate Restaurant
Sevenhill Hotel Sevenhill
Play Space Richardson Park
Eldredge Vineyards
Mt Rufus
Wykari of Clare
Good Catholic Girl
& Restaurant Sawmill Gin
B82
Paulett Wines
Blue Gum Lookout
& Bush Devine Restaurant
& Restaurant Skillogalee Wines
Jeanneret Wines & Clare Valley Brewing Co.
Reillys Wines
Mintaro
Mitchell Wines
Spring Gully Conservation Park
Magpie & Stump Hotel
Penna Lane Wines
The UPPside Restaurant, Wine Bar & Farm Shop St Marks Church John Horrocks Cottage
Mintaro Maze
Matriarch & Rogue Wines
Kilikanoon Wines
Penwortham
Lookout Scenic Views Cellar Doors
Mt Horrocks
Mt Oakden
Martindale Hall
Distillery Dining
Tim McNeil Wines
Point of Interest
Watervale
N
Crabtree Watervale Wines
A
Watervale Hotel Watervale General Store
Riesling Trail Walking & Cycling Rattler Trail Walking and Cycling
B82
clos Clare
Leasingham
Koerner Wine & Gullyview Estate
Claymore Wines
Lavender Federation Trail Walking
O'Leary Walker Wines
Clare Valley Wine & Wilderness Trail Walking Comprehensive trail maps are available from the Clare Valley Wine, Food & Tourism Centre
Taylors Wines
M
Terroir Auburn The Rising Sun Hotel Ulster Park Wines Three Little Birds Gin
Grosset Wines Mount Horrocks Wines
Wines by KT Velvet & Willow Wines
ROAD SURFACE
Auburn
Sealed Unsealed
B84
To Balaklava
B84
Koonowla Wines
To Adelaide, Barossa & Rhynie
To Saddleworth
South Australia 2024
173
Produced by Clare Valley Wine & Grape Association - © Mar 2024
Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2021
Pauletts 109 Reserve Shiraz 2020
G 96
G 96
Precision grape growing, winemaking and delivery in a great year fashions a memorable Armagh. Deepest purple hues. Alive and fragrant in plum, blue fruits, dark berries, juniper, earth, clove and vibrant vanillin oak. The palate is focused, fastidious in delivery, embracing firm tannins and glossy in dark fruits and spice with a touch of Italian leather and charry smoky background oak. A complex wine early in its long journey but, nevertheless, up for the challenge should you decide to open. Drink now–2044 Kilikanoon Mort’s 1973 Watervale Riesling 2024 G 96 There’s a power and concentration of fruit that is just so impressive. It acts as a distilled essence of both the grape, the Watervale sub-region, the fruit selection and the vintage, and it’s something you may wish to hold on to and age further. It definitely has longevity on its mind. From mature vines in the heart of the Clare Valley comes an intensity of lime, lime zest, lime cordial – everything lime! – with green apple bite and a well composed palate bolstered by some stirring, brisk acidity and an iron-like steeliness. It asks for nothing other than more time. Drink now–2038 Knappstein 1878 Transcendence Riesling 2024 G 96 With intent and (aromatic) intensity, this pristine Riesling shows all its glorious lime curry leaf, lemon peel, jasmine and crunchy green apple aromas. The palate is equally chiselled and pulpy, phenolic and total. It indeed transcends my expectations. Drink now–2048 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Armagh Shiraz 2022 G 96 What a glorious expression of Clare Valley Shiraz. It’s a wine that speaks of the land and the soil, of Aussie bush notes and earth, of bramble, blackcurrant, black cherry, peppercorns, liquorice, sage and warm clove oak. And that’s just the wealth of aromas that explode in the glass after pouring. Boasts plenty of class all round, naturally fine featured, well integrated. The 14.5% alcohol might suggest a high degree of richness and weight, but it’s deceptive. The Shiraz remains well within medium-bodied territory in red plums, black cherry, bush notes and earth boasting an overall fineness. Tannin management, I would suggest, is the key here, bringing structure and suppleness. The result is a perfect balance. This can only be a plus as it ages . . . and it most certainly will age well. And look at that price! Outstanding value here. Drink now–2032
Celebrating his long winemaking career that started out as the 109th graduate winemaker from Roseworthy College in 1972, Neil Paulett shows his mastery of Clare Shiraz with a stunning, evocative wine. Fully deserves its Reserve status: concentrated, balanced, elegant and so beautifully expressive. Forest berries, earth, woodsy spices, aniseed, choc-mint and a touch of eucalypt mix with savoury elements, fine but firm tannins and some good, old-fashioned textural interplay to produce a lively regional star with considerable finesse. Finishes clean and long. Drink now–2038 Rieslingfreak No. 8 Polish Hill River Schatzkammer Riesling 2024 G 96 With a delicately aromatic nose, everything appears like it is about to rise, like the sun behind the horizon. And on the palate, here it is, the sun! The residual sugar flows with the acidity cascade, masterfully driving the stream. You just wonder what happened and here you are, having another glass. It just works, as the synchronised movement of professional swimmers. Drink now–2036 Rieslingfreak No. 50 Riesling 2024 G 96 A wine of significance made to celebrate the winemaker John Hughes’ 50th birthday. The result is a tour de force, a very personal homage to the grape Hughes loves above all others. There’s a purity of fruit that goes beyond the complexities of citrus – impressive as they are – and ventures into the exotic, almost Asian in some scents and flavours and savoury in others. It’s a fascinating chameleon. White flowers, almond blossom, kaffir lime, lemon myrtle, basil, white pepper, grapefruit pith produce a focused Riesling of layers, incredible detail and drive. Tied brightly together by a pithy, chalky texture and juicy acidity in its youth, it is a mighty accomplishment to be able to enjoy early. But, rest assured, this wine will age. Drink now–2037 Taylors The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 G 96 Clare Cabernet Sauvignon is in its happy place in this meeting of a top year, quality fruit, and sensitive winemaking that allows all to shine beautifully. Offers a glimpse into just how good Cabernet can be in the region, producing a seamless, enduring and elegant little gem. The wine flows in blackberries, dark plum, earth, pencil lead and baking spices. It’s complete, approachable now and yet there is just enough to keep you wondering, such are the depths to be explored. Fine, lithe tannins continue to work well, producing a freshness and vitality. Has plenty of good years ahead of it. Drink now–2040
174
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
175
Taylors The Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
Grosset Springvale Riesling 2024
G 96
G 95
A tribute to multiple generations of Taylors and their vision for wine in the Clare Valley, The Legacy is a formidable, multi-layered Cabernet, almost impenetrable as a seven-year-old. Inky and dense in dark red hues, the scent offers a stroll in a dark forest with woody notes, undergrowth, earth, violets, gum leaves and dried herbs wrapped in a plenitude of dark fruits and liquorice. It’s a palate fuelled by a multitude of fruit, spice, herbs and oak layers and delivered in the full embrace of savoury-edged tannins. It’s warm, generous and living large. Far reaching in its ambition and in its desire for further ageing. Drink now–2050 Wines by KT Melva Watervale Riesling 2024 G 96 A wild-fermented Riesling that is so wildly composed and pristine. The palate is where the majority of the action is, with succulent tangerine, orange blossom, ginger, white peaches and pulverised rocks. Give it more time to unlock the full power. It will do, and become even more significant. Drink now–2040 ArtWine Leave Your Hat On Montepulciano 2022 Also known at ArtWine as 'the full monty,' montepulciano delivers a lot of flavour, generous and comforting, in a small glass. Deep, dark purple hues. Immediately lifted in dark berries, plums, blue fruits, dried herbs and dusty cacao. Rolls easily across the tongue with additional hints of earth and leather, solid in sturdy tannins and clean acidity. Offers depth and the potential for further complexity through ageing. Seriously smart wine. Drink: 2024–2030 G 95
While Polish Hill gets the loud applause each vintage, the quiet beauty and elegance of Springvale deserves our equal, undivided attention. In 2024, a fast-paced early vintage for Riesling, we see another pristine, high tension, citrus-fuelled example of Springvale presented delicately and with detail. This is a wine of line and length: a straight line of spring flowers, apple blossom florals and clean, brisk lime and citrus that is super fresh and driving as it runs long across the palate. Lip smacking acidity to close. Drink now–2038 Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz 2021 G 95 Classic Clare Shiraz in all its glory from a great year. Brilliant hues of purple- violet. Boasts a natural poise and elegance with fruit, oak and tannin effortlessly dovetailing, releasing a world of black cherry, forest berries, smoky spice, cedar and clove. The palate has weight – medium-bodied – and texture, fleshy throughout. Remains so vibrant and fresh to close, with a lift in lively spices. So good, and good to see this youngster perfectly poised for an even longer, brighter future. Drink now–2040 Kilikanoon Mort’s Block Watervale Riesling 2024 G 95 Restrained, naturally and beautifully, Mort’s Block highlights the absolute purity of expression that the Watervale sub-region brings to the glass. Dusty citrus blossom, jasmine, fresh-cut apple, a whisper of sweet basil – it seems almost minimalist in construction – and, above all, an enduring linear run of crunchy acidity that goes and goes. Drink now–2031 Kirrihill The Peacemaker of Clare Cabernet Shiraz 2018 G 95 The Cabernet force is strong in this partnership, the grape’s aromatics to the fore in violet, menthol, oregano and well supported by black cherry and blackberry fruits. The combo is, as ever, a friendly meeting of two different minds that seem to click, Cabernet bringing the aromatics and structure, and Shiraz bringing the warmth and middle palate roundness. It’s delivered in generous serves of flavour. Hits the spot now and has time on its side. Drink now–2038 Kirrihill The Gentleman of Clare Shiraz Mataro 2018 G 95 In terrific shape for a six-year-old opening in a chorus of ripe sumptuousness. Impenetrable black-red colour. A wealth of deep blackberry, cassis, black cherry with baked earth, liquorice, chocolate and cedar. The building blocks for something quite special have been established, and the wine is developing well, extending some pungent aromatics and spice amid a sea of dense dark fruits with fine tannins and a seam of fresh acidity driving it forward and long. Drink now–2036
Crabtree RC Riesling 2024
G 95
Top of the tree in the Crabtree Riesling world, RC is taut as a drum, coiled and fresh for further time in bottle. It boasts a sound basis for ageing with confidence. Let’s start with the finely struck minerality, flint and stony edges, so engaging, and citrus and light floral concentration. Opens gently on the palate to allow a view of intense citrus, lime, grapefruit pith, apple and zesty acidity running long into the finish. It’s direct, intense and linear in style. Will be a corker with age. Drink now–2034
Grosset Alea Riesling 2024
G 95
Celebrates the finer, juicy side of Riesling with a brilliant tingle-inducing, subtle sweetness that now defines the Alea style. It immediately brightens the senses, putting them on notice. The scent of spring flowers, jasmine, green apple and citrus introduces an outwardly sunny wine. But, for one so young, it runs deep, melding notes of kaffir lime and candied ginger, grapefruit, lemon drop and lime zestiness into one penetrating presence. Bright acidity in league with an easy flowing gentle sweetness completes this impressive off-dry style. Drink now–2036
176
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
177
O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2024
Knappstein Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 95
G 95
A Cabernet still in its prime with that vegetal accent and pronounced black fruit characters. Then it’s time for black olive tapenade, delicious mint chocolate and new leather. The acidity is flooding, only partially contained by exuberant-good- looking tannins, pushing the fruit like a drifting boat. Plenty of potential and time ahead. Drink now–2042 Knappstein Ackland Vineyard Riesling 2024 G 95 A timid nose, like a gentle spring whiff redolent of buds bursting, fresh-cut grass, citrus notes, and Granny Smith apples. The acidity and juiciness of the fruit reverberate like water reflecting sunlight back to the rock. Incredible minerality, purity, and length at the core. Drink 2025–2040 Mitchell McNicol Clare Valley Riesling 2015 G 95 Well-aged Clare Valley Riesling, always a treat! Out of the cellar, this 2015 McNicol is ready to charm, right here, right now. Shows complexity from the first sniff with its heady aromas of jasmine, orange peel, lemon barley, buttered toast and honey. There’s an inherent warmth to the wine. It’s there in the natural textural flow, the almost opulent flavour intensity in honeyed toast, lemon curd and florals interlaid with a lemon/orange peel bright savoury spark to close. Acidity, the key to a long life, is holding firm throughout. I’d call this a comfort wine, which it is, but it is also so much more. Drink now–2030 Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2024 G 95 Speaks of its place in classic lime and lemon citrus sherbet, bath salts and apple blossom florals. A most taut and precise palate delivering cut and bite in lime peel and grapefruit pith while maintaining a smooth presence of citrus throughout, with flashes of ginger and spice. There’s depth here, something to explore further with time in bottle. Lovely acid tang to close. Drink now–2041 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2024 G 95 The opposite in personality to Watervale Riesling, Polish Hill is all about Riesling energy and exuberance. Organically grown, for those wondering, Polish Hill arrives all bright and perky, but underneath the citrussy exterior there is great concentration of fruit flavour. A drinker could get lost in the depths of that gorgeous middle palate, such is the appeal of spiced apple with grapefruit, lemon, lime and citrus zest. Polish Hill offers a mix of spice and citrus all rolled tightly into one super perky, fresh, young Riesling. Another ripper from this top Clare Valley sub-region. Drink now–2034
So fine, so silky, so effortless in delivery with aromatics that define what Watervale Riesling is all about. Watervale can be perceived as quiet. It is, in fact, beautifully subtle, detailed in style. Aromas of lime, lemongrass, kaffir lime with just a touch of ginger nicely define the sub-regional – and regional – style. The palate boasts a long line of flavour, super intense in lime, with herbals, fennel and ginger. Texturally, it’s supple. Acidity-wise, it is lemony bright and the mainstay of the wine, but don’t read into this that it is hard-edged. It’s not. Great length makes the flavour last. This is a fully formed young Riesling, ready to fly. Drink now–2032 Pauletts 109 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 G 95 Impressive on a number of fronts. Captures a super smooth, stylish Cabernet still very much in its youth but with time definitely on its side; a most convincing argument for why Cabernet is rightly considered one of the big three varietal ambassadors of the Clare Valley. Rests on a firm foundation of blackberry fruit, herbs and voluminous silky, fine tannins with detailed violet, wild berries, liquorice, clove, mint, briar and baked earth in the complex mix. A discreet peppery layer adds that extra X factor, especially on the length. Drink now–2040 Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2017 G 95 Preserved lemon and apricot, beeswax, acacia honey, lanolin, and kerosene – yep, it’s an aged Riesling! The palate is toasty and textured, with the acidity still bouncing around like a toddler. A striking smoky aftertaste lingers. My head is spinning at the contemplation of intriguing food pairings. Drink now–2030 Pauletts 109 Reserve Riesling 2023 G 95 That distinctive jasmine, citrus, spice and white pepper scent, so Polish Hill River, so imposing. From a top year and immediately shows its class across a seamless palate: concentrated, beautifully structured, textured and long. Moves slowly, all the better to take in flavours that build, that explore a full spectrum of Riesling beauty in youth with an almost ridiculous depth of citrus – lemon curd, grapefruit, orange peel, lime zest – and spice and hints of fennel and ginger. Smooth as . . . that’s a wow! Drink now–2037 Pauletts ECKS Elodie Watervale Syrah 2023 G 95 So much spicy oomph to this wine which fully deserves its Syrah moniker. Some scintillating, cooler, spicier, red-fruited characters here coiled tightly around fast- moving acidity and savoury-edged tannins. It’s got energy to burn. Black cherry, bramble, cassis, peppercorn, sage, liquorice and a splash of regional mint dash across the palate, leaving a trail of spice in their wake. The winemaker had plenty of fun with this little beauty. Drink now–2033
178
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
179
Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2023
Sevenhill St. Ignatius Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec 2021
G 95
G 95
Does the Clare Valley proud, year after year. Admirable consistency again in 2023 from this vineyard high in the Clare hills, delivering an attractive purity of Riesling flavour and brisk acidity which will suit the cellar. Arresting scent of citrus blossom, lemon drop, lime zest and talc . . . very Clare. A zesty fresh, juicy, citrussy core of lime punctuated in aromatic jasmine notes and a touch of ginger and Thai basil. A refined, subtle texture made bright by some zippy acidity, just right for early drinking, if that is desired. Length is impressive. Drink now–2030 Pikes The Hill Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 95 Lovely Cabernet fruit intensity at its core, which then filters across every corner of the wine. Cassis, blackberries, blueberries, briar, leafy and herbal with an autumnal earthy harmony, the quality of fruit and the clear identification of Cabernet strengths in both flavour, structure and detailed tannins make for a rewarding wine experience. Quite seamless. Drink now–2038 Pikes The Merle Riesling 2024 G 95 The Merle celebrates the purest expression of Riesling off the Pikes’ Polish Hill River vineyard. Set against a warm, textural backdrop, the ‘24 explores the River’s distinctive floral-induced aromatics – honeysuckle, white pepper, Thai basil – before zeroing in on its citrus intensity in lime flesh, zest, preserved lemon with red apple and a splash of lemongrass. It’s one complex youngster. Past releases assure the drinker that it will also age a treat. Drink now–2036 Rieslingfreak No. 2 Riesling 2024 G 95 So fine, so precise, with goosebump excitement levels for Riesling nerds out there. Piercing scent, delicate and fragrant in white flowers, apple blossom, lime, lemon and grapefruit pith. An old school Riesling of structure, structure, structure, with a firm line of assertive acidity that just keeps on going. Purity of fruit is concentrated and beautifully expressed in lime, lemon, dusty citrus and Granny Smith apple bite. Line and length assured, so too a super dry persistence through to the finish. Drink now–2037 Rieslingfreak No. 3 Riesling 2024 G 95 Essentially dry, No. 3’s fruit sweetness brings a scintillating tingle that is hard to forget. It goes hand in hand with gentle lime blossom, lemon sherbet, red apple, bath salts and slate aromas that are beautifully transformed on the palate with winemaking precision. There is a wealth of flavour still tightly bound to a fine texture and braced in tingle acidity with a citrus and mineral edge. A highly tensile young Riesling ready to go (for eager beavers out there) or with a big future ahead (if you have the will). Drink now–2037
A Bordeaux blend – Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec – from a top year, and it’s a magical combination. Serious in deep crimson hues, equally serious in its exploration of complexity, melding each grape’s strong points. Ripe black berries, plum, blue fruits, violet, briar and black pepper join forces to present a wine that is both fleshy and dense with a black fruited intensity, finishing structural and firm. Excellent concentration throughout, guided by fine, sandpaper tannins. So smart. Drink now–2035 Sevenhill Open Range Grenache 2022 G 95 Great youthful bright colour in vivid crimson. A fragrance, lifted in maraschino cherry, fresh raspberries, rosemary and dried herbs with a hint of zesty orange peel, reveals one seriously elegant, expressive Grenache. It is immediately backed up by a palate medium in body and gently undulating in fruit, spice and fine sandy tannins. It flows effortlessly. Drink now–2034 Sevenhill 27 Miles Riesling 2023 G 95 Firmly in the Clare Valley Riesling zone with an intensity of pure lime essence. The fragrance offers the scent of citrus blossom, lime zest, Bickford’s cordial, green apple and jasmine. The palate is fleshed out in deep citrus flavours of lime, grapefruit, lemon sorbet, musk with a good concentration and tension. The beauty of a top vintage is captured and delivered in tangy, mouth-watering acidity. Drink now–2035 Skillogalee Trevarrick Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 95 Bay leaf, mocha, polished blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. A charry note, then gets on the stage, new leather, and turned earth. The delightful choc-mint component opens the way to a filigree of tannins that fills the whole palate and goes beyond. This wine has a rustic shade, just as it wants to show you that things are still developing. Be patient, and you’ll see the whole picture. Drink now–2040 Skillogalee Trevarrick Riesling 2024 G 95 Vibrantly cool, finely tuned lemon verbena, sage leaf, Ambrosia apple, jasmine, and pink grapefruit. It shows an energetic palate in all its Z factor, as in zingy and zappy. I love its juiciness, aromaticity, and character. It has a head and tail and delivers. Drink now–2038 Sussex Squire The Hackett Estate Range Shiraz 2022 G 95 Reveals a complex, brooding, dark side of Shiraz, literally and figuratively. Deep purple-magenta in hue, followed by a scent oozing dark plums, blackberry, aniseed, black olive tapenade, cocoa and earth. Unctuous and charming, it offers a deep richness of flavour elevated by a lifted floral presence and smart, appealing vanillin oak. There is detail here, too, something that becomes more apparent with time opened, as dense tannins fully loosen up. Drink now–2034
180
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
181
Cirillo Estate Wines, 1850 Grenache
Sussex Squire Old Vine Grenache 2022
Rieslingfreak No. 14 Watervale Riesling 2024
G 95
G 94
A serious, compelling spice-laden old vine Grenache sourced off 70-year-old vines. It offers a mix of light and shade: dark fruits and lively spices, smart oak and textural, lightly drying tannins and, all the while, it remains quintessentially elegant. Each time you return to the glass, there is something new to explore, from the peppermint rise on the scent, to the violet florals inhabiting the palate and the vanilla-choc oak and lasting blackstrap liquorice that runs towards the finish. One to savour. Drink now–2032 Taylors St Andrews Chardonnay 2022 G 95 Pale colour. Fresh nectarine white peach grapefruit aromas with tonic water notes. Creamy and mouth-filling with abundant white peach, nectarine fruits, fine supple textures, attractive mid-palate viscosity and well-balanced vanilla/malt oak. Very good fruit definition, richness, volume and freshness. Punches well above its weight at this price point. Drink now–2025 Vickery Castine Hayshed Block Watervale Riesling 2021 G 95 Toasted almonds, tangerine, beeswax, ginger, and a glimpse of petrol. The palate is incredibly chalky and pure, with a delectable quality. A juicy mid-palate and restrained length reveal a wine with plenty of life ahead, despite signs of ageing on the nose. Drink now–2038 Taylors St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 G 94+ Medium-deep colour. Fragrant cassis, mulberry, espresso aromas with herb garden/ bush garrigue notes. Inky deep and vigorous with ample blackcurrant pastille, roasted coffee, roasted walnut flavours, attractive mid-palate volume/density and fine sinewy firm tannins. Finishes chewy with ample dark fruits/aniseed notes. Sweet-fruited and buoyant with very good flow. Drink now–2032 Kilikanoon Baudinet Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2021 G 94 A great year and a wonderful GSM rendition that plays to the strengths of Grenache as a solid base for building a well-structured, generous style. A compellingly spicy wine adorned in ripe red berries, plum and liquorice with a light play on aromatic florals, violet. Brings it altogether on a densely packed palate delivered on silky tannins. Fourteen months in French oak has been slurped up easily, leaving some sweet, vanillin oak and baking spices. High drink-now appeal but with plenty left in reserve. Drink now–2030
Pure lime juice, grapefruit, wet river stone, and faint honeysuckle. The juiciness vibrates on the palate like a tense guitar cord just tuned. It’s a sleek wine that flows away with class, leaving shimmering rocks behind on its course. Drink 2025–2035 Rieslingfreak No. 5 Riesling 2024 G 94 Grapefruit, lemon meringue, honeysuckle, and Granny Smith apple. The touch of residual sugar adds fun to the mix, like a juicy feeling on steroids or a refreshing, welcoming breeze on a torrid summer day. It is so well-balanced and thirstily pleasant to drink. Drink now–2034 Skillogalee Trevarrick Shiraz 2022 G 94 Sage and rosemary, pink pepper, smoked meat – not a recipe but a delicious Clare Valley Shiraz, indeed. With some extra air, here comes the fruit: blueberry, plum, blackcurrant, and pomegranate. It’s still well in its infancy, and with that, it is showing a refreshingly tonic aspect with the piquancy of tannins that are yet to mature. Drink now–2038 Sussex Squire Samuel Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 94 A solid Cabernet Sauvignon built around a core of ripe, black and red fruits, spice and some beautifully well-defined oak. Celebrates a more traditional style of Clare Cabernet, one offering an intensity of flavour, controlled power and structure, although time in the glass and some swirls of air will reveal greater nuance with the emergence of florals bringing a degree of both elegance and approachability. Will benefit from time and a little patience. Drink now–2034 Taylors St Andrews Shiraz 2021 G 94 Medium-deep colour. Intense pure blackberry, cassis aromas with hints of black olive/spice. Well-balanced blackberry, dark cherry, blackcurrant fruits, fine sinuous/muscular tannins and underlying sweet vanilla, marzipan notes. Red liquorice/aniseed notes at the finish. A sweet and savoury wine with the fruit and oak in wrestle for dominance. Drink now–2032 Wines by KT Peglidis Watervale Riesling 2024 G 94 Vibrant and zesty, like a whiff of spring air. Grapefruit, lemon balm, Granny Smith apple, talc and jasmine tea. Waves of juicy citrus fruit inundate the palate with extraordinary power while wearing a silk white glove. It just works. Drink now–2038
182
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
183
Wines by KT 5452 Riesling 2024
Kilikanoon Duke Reserve Grenache 2019
G 94
G 93
On the nose, it has enticing aromas of honeysuckle, yuzu, white nectarines, orange blossom, and pink grapefruit. The refined concentration of aromas translates on the palate, with elegant acidity and streamlined, copious length. Drink now–2038 ArtWine Grumpy Old Man Grenache 2022 Grumpy and old? The name honours the century old bush vines responsible for this most gracious grenache. Far from grumpy, they deliver a wine of some finesse and understated fruit power. Archetypal grenache red fruits, bramble, wild herbs and earth fill the aroma. Offers real staying power on the palate as the wine moves easily across the tongue, pure and precise, with lightly savoury and linear tannins. Plenty to enjoy here. Drink: 2024–2030 Bourke & Travers Single Vineyard Shiraz 2022 G 93 The 2022 vintage was exceptional for Clare Valley Riesling and not bad for Valley Shiraz either, by the fineness of varietal expression to be discovered here. The Clare Valley style is evolving, with a push towards more a medium-bodied elegance with Shiraz and it is to be welcomed when it brings a range of lovely aromatics to the fore and elegance such as this. Dark and vibrant in the glass, with the scent of ripe plums, blueberry, black cherry, wild Aussie bush and aniseed spices. An even palate follows, fashioned along well-crafted tannins. Deceptively elegant. Should age well with that well-rounded balance. Drink now–2030 G 93
It’s good to see Grenache given some extra TLC and time in bottle before release. The ’19, with its yin and yang mix of aromatic intensity and power, was worth the wait. Red fruits, bramble, spice and earth with pressed flowers adding a particularly distinctive Grenache flourish, Duke brings everything together so well on a warm, bustling palate, dense and bright and long lasting. Toasty oak adds a certain richness and gravitas. Drink now–2030 Kilikanoon Small Batch Grenache Mourvèdre Syrah 2023 G 93 Reverses the traditional GSM with a GMS, and why not? It works so well, bringing the tannin structure, the dark fruit intensity, not to mention some gorgeous sage and oregano spice, to the Grenache and Shiraz party. The result is one lively, fresh, inviting and tasty drinking. Bright magenta-purple glistening hues – eye catching! Cherries galore, red plum, black fruits, florals, spice and herbs. There’s a lot happening here in a fast-flowing, bristling young red that probably deserves all of your attention now. Built for early drinking. Drink now–2028 Leo Buring Clare Valley Riesling 2024 G 93 Like a walk through an English garden, the scent captures spring in the rush of citrus fruits and floral blossom. It’s quite captivating, equally so the delicacy of flavour and filigree fine acidity that is almost barely there, gentle and wispy, but is definitely the guiding hand behind this dry Riesling. Apple blossom, lime juice, lemon sorbet, grapefruit and lemongrass aromas. Brings a long, lean run of flavour with a touch of lemon drop and pastille-like fruit sweetness to close. Drink now–2030 Pauletts Shiraz 2022 G 93 Aromas are well composed on the nose, with concentrated açai berry, blackberry, blueberry yogurt, pomegranate and milk chocolate. A medium-bodied, refreshingly fine Clare Valley Shiraz with all the bells and whistles, extreme drinkability and fine
Eldredge Deano Sangiovese 2022
G 93
A tribute to the winemaker’s late father, nicknamed Deano, who helped plant the vineyard’s Sangiovese vines in 1993. Classic dark Sangiovese characters in black cherry, dried herbs, plum, aniseed spice, chocolate, earth with a thread of appealing savoury meatiness. Nicely composed, showing plenty of smooth, dense tannins through to a dry finish. Well-made and food friendly, as the grape deserves. Drink now–2032 Eldredge Blue Chip Shiraz 2021 G 93 Rings true to a trad style of Clare Valley Shiraz showing plenty of ripe fruit and smart, sweetly spiced oak. Plums aplenty, black fruits, liquorice, sage, cinnamon and baking spices. Open and honest, the palate is supple and long dressed in savoury, woodsy tannins. Fruit and spice give way to earth, leather and cedar on the finish. Plenty of life, plenty of further ageing potential. Drink now–2034
tannins. Yum. Drink now–2032 Pauletts BMS Brielle Watervale Grenache 2023
G 93
Watervale Grenache makes a modern, interpretative splash in luminescent, cherry red-cerise hues and bright, peppery juiciness. Shows almost a pinot-esque lightness of touch in a lifted, floral, peppery cherry fragrance. Explores the finer side of the grenache grape, one that brings some tannin grip and tension together with sour cherry, raspberry, tomato leaf, cardamon and long-lasting pepper. Runs long, runs fast. Drink now–2029
184
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
185
Pauletts Clare Valley Riesling 2024
Taylors St Andrews Riesling 2024
G 93
G 93
Concentrated, structured and far from shy, St Andrews is big in personality. In 2024, it cements its reputation with a forceful display, intense in lime and citrus and backed up by assertive acidity which raises the question of long-term cellaring. Aromas are earthy, dusty in Granny Smith apple, lemon peel, lime juice with a hint of crushed Thai basil and ginger. Boasts a saline quality that brightens the tastebuds and a chalky texture that introduces a super dry, long-lasting citrus-intense palate, like sucking on a lime. So fresh! Drink now–2038 Taylors The Pioneer Shiraz 2018 G 93 The Pioneer Shiraz delivers a finely delivered elegance which may cause some Clare Shiraz drinkers to look again. Clare Shiraz can be a chameleon. There’s the fragrant scent in blue, black, plum fruits in spice, briar, pepper and vanilla – all nicely contained and precise. Time in bottle before release has built some lovely layers of complexity and depth of flavour, all within a medium-bodied frame. The focus is on dark fruits, spice, liquorice, chocolate and a peppery liveliness that melds into a dense, concentrated middle palate. While a generously flavoured Shiraz, The Pioneer carries it well, thanks, no doubt, to the fine-grained, even tannins that help bring that touch of refinement and elegance. Drink now–2032 Cabernet franc flying solo and bringing its usual red fruited elegance and floral aromatics to the fore. No fancy winemaking on show, just bright and lively cherry, plum, liquorice, rose petal and dried herbs with a touch of jalapeño pepperiness to enliven and lift the wine. It carries the ripeness of the fruit well, building on the mid palate into a dense, flowing style. Tannins are fine and support a wine that reveals more and more the longer it is open. Svelte and elegant. Drink: 2024–2028 Bourke & Travers Tuckey Syrah 2023 G 92 ArtWine Pack Leader Cabernet Franc 2022 A Shiraz by any other name that smells – and tastes – just as sweet and ripe as the Clare Valley can deliver. Just under 14% alcohol and it is ripe, black and plum fruits all the way, encased in lively woodsy spices, liquorice, cacao and black pepper. Introduces a savoury note that adds a touch of complexity with a layer of smoked meats and toasty oak, embroidered around the middle palate. Tannins are up to the task, which is to not only provide structure now, which they do firmly, but to guide the wine into the future. Drink now–2032 G 92
Pauletts brings body, texture and tangy flavours to its ’24 Riesling, immediately placing tastebuds on notice. That bitey grapefruit pithiness and lime zest is super perky and bright. There’s red apple, citrus and a light spice, too, which run long and deep across the middle palate. Acidity is crunchy but it runs in tandem with a warm textural element. It’s one deceptively busy Riesling. Drink now–2030
Sevenhill St Aloysius Shiraz Cabernet 2023
G 93
Australia’s own, distinctly original red blend, Shiraz Cabernet, looking every inch the warm and inviting style it is intended to be, not to mention generous in personality. Quality fruit stands out, nicely defined and delivered in a smooth, seamless way in aniseed, black cherry, plum, dried herbs, woodsmoke oak and baking spices with an earthy, autumnal underlying strength. Firm tannins form the base, allowing the fruit to fly. Drink now–2033 Sevenhill Spire’s Lament Viognier 2021 G 93 Does the grape proud with a sensitive rendition that skilfully wrangles the balance of ripe tropical and citrus fruits and texture against a solid background of acidity. It’s always a tough balancing act with Viognier, performed here with great success. Nectarine, peach, mango skin, tangerine and citrus with lifted orange blossom aromatics and a whisper of marzipan savouriness, and you have a wine that fills the mouth with great flavour concentration with a touch of phenolic grip. Drink now–2030
Taylors Masterstroke Cabernet Shiraz 2018
G 93
Medium-deep crimson. Red-fruited wine with ample red cherry, strawberry, redcurrant fruits and underlying roasted walnut, vanilla notes. Generously concentrated palate with buoyant red fruits, fine savoury/bittersweet tannins, appealing inky density and some roasted walnut, vanilla, red liquorice notes. Finishes chalky and minerally with some aniseed notes. Drink now–2030 Taylors St Andrews Riesling 2020 G 93 Clare Valley Riesling and bottle age were made for each other. At four years, St Andrews is a little forward and possibly showing the results of what was a challenging, dry, warm vintage but it remains undoubtedly in good drinking form. A rush of frangipani, honeysuckle florals, grilled grapefruit, beeswax and ginger aromas denotes a generous, ripe Riesling. There’s a wealth of flavour to enjoy on the palate enlivened by well-sustained acidity in the old school dry style that really cleans and brightens the palate. Drink now–2034
186
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
South Australia 2024
187
Page 1 Page 2-3 Page 4-5 Page 6-7 Page 8-9 Page 10-11 Page 12-13 Page 14-15 Page 16-17 Page 18-19 Page 20-21 Page 22-23 Page 24-25 Page 26-27 Page 28-29 Page 30-31 Page 32-33 Page 34-35 Page 36-37 Page 38-39 Page 40thevintagejourn.disciplemedia.com
Powered by FlippingBook