SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE
VINTAGE JOURNAL
Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale
SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024
2025
INTRODUCTION
BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
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score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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KANGAROO ISLAND
Remarkable Rocks, Kangaroo Island Tourism Alliance.
KANGAROO ISLAND SUMMARY AND REVIEWS TONY LOVE
also considers Semillon as the best white on the island, which he crafts as a single variety style and in a ‘Bordeaux blend’ with Sauvignon Blanc. Joch Bosworth from Springs Road considers the island’s Chardonnay to be a genuine star, while his two traditional red varieties, Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, sit in a style space he describes as ‘between McLaren Vale and the Adelaide Hills’. He notes that there’s a distinctive dried herb character in his reds. The key factor to emphasise is that there is a growing legitimacy to the region as respected producers attract increased attention through improved wine quality, and so add to wine tourism opportunities on the island. Another project, known as Guroo Wines, instigated by Stoke Wines’ proprietor Nick Dugmore, has invited respected winemakers such as Charlotte Hardy (Charlotte Dalton Wines), Stephen George of Ashton Hills fame, and Sue Bell from Bellwether Wines in the Coonawarra to work with Kangaroo Island fruit to highlight its qualities to a wider audience. While small in stature, the wine identity of Kangaroo Island is gathering momentum. Everyone involved there accepts its logistical challenges, while noting the incredible potential for its wines to make a more celebrated mark in the island’s already high- profile reputation.
Kangaroo Island is one of South Australia’s most renowned tourism destinations, well loved domestically and internationally. Its wild Southern Ocean environment is a major attraction, remote, unspoiled and invigorating for the soul. Its food and wine go hand in hand with such a pristine reputation. Kangaroo Island is, surprisingly for many, a recognised wine region – one of 18 official geographical indicators in South Australia alone. The appellation takes in the whole island, which measures 155km east to west and 55km north to south, though just 144 hectares are reported planted to wine grapes, yielding a tiny crush recorded in 2024 by Vinehealth Australia of only 127 tonnes in close to a 2:1 ration of reds to whites. Mind you, only four producers responded to this year’s annual survey, so the figures might not accurately reflect the real amounts. For comparison’s sake, Kangaroo Island is just a small player in the numbers game. McLaren Vale, for instance, had 7383 hectares under vines and crushed more than 28,000 tonnes in 2024. Langhorne Creek 23,000 tonnes from 5777 hectares. Most of the vineyards are situated from the central districts, southwest of the main town Kingscote, through to the eastern Dudley Peninsula. The aforementioned wild ocean surrounding the island is the major influence on the growing conditions across the board, essentially creating a cooling effect and lengthened ripening period that benefits the quality of the fruit. However, significant differences in topography, soil types, weather patterns, and rainfall impact fruit variation and wine styles. Irrigation, if used, depends on surface water dams. There also are specific challenges to the Kangaroo Island appellation, with major threats to grapes of possums and birds – crows and eagles especially – forcing growers into total netting regimes. The logistics of being remote from the mainland is a major cost imposition, though the bigger producers remain committed because they have great faith in the region’s qualities. The maritime climate benefits the Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, the latter championed by The Islander Estate Vineyard’s Yale Norris. He
This mapping data is copyright South Australian Tourism Commis- sion (SATC )and Custom Mapping Services and must not be used without the express permission of the copyright parties.
Emu Bay Fishing Charters
Boxing Bay
Point White
KANGAROO ISLAND
North Cape
KI Marine Adventures Beach Day Emu Bay
Cassini Cape
Fleurieu Peninsula
Cape D'Estaing
Point Marsden
Mt Marsden
Delamere
Smith
Emu Bay
Southern Spencer Gulf Marine Park
Bay
7
5
1
6
Emu Bay Lavender Solstice KI
Encounter Marine Park
Cape Rouge
Stokes Bay Rockpool Café RAD KI
Discovery Lagoon Caravan & Camping
9
7
Bay of Shoals
0
10
B23
3
Dutton Cape
Cape Jervis
2
Busby Islet Conservation Park
Rose Cottage Farm
3
km
Old Wisanger School
Bay of Shoals Wines
3
NORTH
6
3
9
Wisanger Sports Club
Beatrice Islet Conservation Park
3
4
Rettie Bluff
3
King George Beach
8
2
7
Kangaroo Island SeaLink Passenger & Vehicle Ferry (Cape Jervis - Penneshaw)
Lathami Con. Park
Cove River Western
4
1
3
Shep’s Studio
1
Beach Snelling
3
2 3
Kingscote
4
6
RD
5 2 2
7
Kangaroo Island Brewery
2
Island Beehive
2
5
3
3
Fig Tree KI
6 Spring Road Cellar Door The Islander Estate Cellar Door 3
2
Amen Corner
5
Snug Cove
Brownlow
7
RD
Constitution Hill
4
Cape Forbin
2
Kingscote Golf Course
Stokes Bay Hall
2
K.I. Spirits
8
2
Backstairs
Western River
2
5
7
RD
RD
3
7
Racecourse
4 1 2
2
Nepean Bay
Wilderness
4
Penneshaw
Cygnet River
2
Middle River Dam
Cygnet Estuary Conservation Park
Torrens Cape
3
Kangaroo Island Wool
8
Protection
Duck Lagoon
2
7
2
Passage
PIONEER
5
1
4
5
Head Kangaroo
2
Area
3
Cape Torrens Wild. Prot. Area
Western Cove
9
KI Seafront Holiday Park
Morrison Point
9
RD
Scott Cove
8
7
5
1
Nepean Bay Conservation Park
4
Baudin Conservation Park
Cape Borda Lighthouse
Penneshaw Cemetery
4
BRANCH CREEK RD
Encounter Marine Park
Banks Red
3
1
Nepean Bay
2
2
Kangaroo Island Providore
Ironstone Hill
4
Newland Norma Cove Bay
2 4
Dudley Wines Cellar Door
6
5
Lighthouse Keepers Cemetery
1
3
WILLOUGHBY
2
2
4
Charing Cross Corner
Eastern Cove
1
5
8
1
Snapper Point
5
9
2 2
4
3
3
2
7
4 3
3
4
Parndana Con. Park
7
9
7
2 Rob's Shearing and Sheepdogs
39
5
1
4
3
1
1
14
6
4
Birchmore Lagoon
2
Frank Potts Gully
4
7
5
Cape Coutts
Sunset Food and Wine
3
5
STARRS
1
KI Wildlife Park
2
Baudin Beach
6
4 2 2
HUNGERFORD
6
4
American River
28
30
2
Western Kangaroo Island Marine Park
1
3
3
2
5
3
3
2
(American Beach)
4
1
4
Lashmar Conservation Park
6
K.I. Artworks Gallery
5
3
10
1
The Oyster Farm Shop
Gosse
War Service Land Settlement Monument
Emu Ridge Eucalyptus Distillery KI Ciders
1
1
8
Beyeria Conservation Park
3
B23
32
Sapphiretown
2
2
1
6
36
3
Chapman River
Western District Community & Sports Centre
4
Parndana
5
Ravine des Casoars Hike
7
Dudley
Island Beach
2
Roo Lagoon Homestead & Gallery
5
2
4
7
Browns Beach
Antechamber Bay
7
Burgess Lagoon
3
4
8
7
5
30
7
5
Thomas Family Monument
Pelican Lagoon Con. Park
Bay Red House
3
Larrikin Lagoon
1
2
2
2
5
Cape St Albans
3
1
5
5
MOORES
5
5
RD
5
Lashmar Lagoon
3
3
4
Dudley Conservation Park
5
3
2
American River Aquat. Res.
3
2
Cliffords Honey Farm Drunken Drone Brewery
4 4
1
14
Muston
6
12
4
8
9
Moncrieff Bay
Flavours of Petite Provence
3
3
4
1
2
5
Seddon Con. Park
Flinders Chase National Park (Gosselands)
6
3
YMCA Corner
7
4
Ravine des Casoars Wilderness Protection Area
4
3
Pink Bay
6
5
5
Salt Lagoon
ONE
47
White Lagoon
2
7
4
23
7
6
8
1
False Cape Wines
4
Salt Lake
17
4
5
BARRETTS
5
6
Simpson Conservation Park
5
5
2
Cape Willoughby Lighthouse
Pennington Bay
3
3
4
4
5
7
5
Kangaroo Island Living Honey KI Coffee Roasters
Lesueur Con. Park
Vennachar Point
3
Cape Willoughby Con. Park
4
2
3
Mouth Flat Beach
West Bay
3
2
6
3
Peninsula
3
5
CHURCH
1
6
Point Reynolds
7
5
1
Flour Cask Bay
3
4
2
11
2
8
Black Point
3 1
6
1
Curley Ck Hike
6
4
8 7
2
Cape Hart
1
8
3
Bald Hill
6
Platypus Waterholes Walk
Lake Ada
False Cape
11
Murray Lagoon
Timber Creek Walk
RD
3
4
Mount Taylor Con. Park
Bay d'Estrees
11
11
Raptor Domain
2
Rocky River Hike
4
Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park
3
12
13
10
4
2
5
Cape Bedout
3
1
6
1
Rocky River Day Use Area
Flinders Chase Visitor Centre
Kangaroo Island Mini Golf
Little Sahara
9
Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park
Vivonne Bay General Store & Bottle Shop
Snake Lagoon Hike
Mt Mary
KI Bush Getaway
SUNSHINE AVENUE
Karatta
Hanson Bay Wildlife Sanctuary
Mt Bloom eld
12
3
Seal Bay Conservation Park
6
38
Kelly Hill Conservation Park
Point Tinline
5
Kelly Hill Caves
(Harriet River) Vivonne Bay
3
Flinders Chase National Park
3
7
Kangaroo Island Outdoor Action
Wreckers Beach
3
13
Cape Gantheaume Wilderness Protection Area
Stun'sail Boom River
Nobby Is.
Bales Beach
5
Seal Bay Conservation Park
Lake Kitty
Point Ellen
Wheatons Beach
Bunker Hill
Maupertuis Bay
Cape Bouguer Wilderness Protection Area
Vivonne Bay Conservation Park
Yacca Flat
d
Hanson Bay
Cape Linois
Aquatic Reserve
Sanderson Bay
Cape Kersaint
Cape
4
1
Cape Bouguer
Younghusband
Weirs Cove
Remarkable Rocks
1
Admirals Arch
Southern Kangaroo Island Marine Park
Cape du Couedic Lighthouse
Casuarina Islets (The Brothers)
Cape Gantheaume
Information Outlet
Caravan Park
Major Road – Sealed Secondary Road – Sealed
B23
Park Information
Dump Point
Electric Vehicles Charge Point
Accommodation Other Road – Sealed
Boat Ramp ; Beach Launch
Other Road – Unsealed 4.W.D. Only
Lookout Camping Area
Lighthouse
Western Kangaroo Island Marine Park
Flinders Chase National Park
Bush re Last Resort Refuge
M
Cellar Door
80
Walking Trail
Distances In Kilometres
Golf Course
8
Fuel
Intermediate Kilometres
Automated External De brillator
Seal Bay
Public Toilets
Airport
Walking/Hiking Trails
Aug 2024 © Custom Mapping Services
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The Reviews
The Islander Estate Vineyards The Red Shiraz 2022
G 93
From the estate vineyard. Its initial sense is with a cooler-climate-like fragrance, peppery and with a backdrop of eucalyptus forest - just a note to pinpoint its source. Flavour spectrum is very much in the crimson berry/fruit mode with medium- to full-bodied presence and well-cast grip in the mouth-filling finish. 14% alc Drink now–2030 Dudley Cape Hart Riesling 2015 G 92 Maturing Riesling colour – mid gold with green tinges. Classic aromas for the age, a lime marmalade note with decent intensity, which tends to relax in the palate as a chalky mouthfeel and tempered acidity state their presence, directing the finish with lingering spice and roasted lime flavours. Southeast Asian spiced fish dishes will
Springs Road Terre Napoleon Shiraz 2022
G 94
A best of selection of the estate Shiraz, deeply imbued with dark fruits and lovely, supportive French oak spice, both superbly threaded together into one clear voice that enjoys the savoury side of the ledger. A subtle char appears in the palate as well, with a well-tempered finish. A quite sophisticated style. 14.5% alc Drink now–2034 The Islander Estate Vineyards Bark Hut Road Cabernet Franc/Shiraz 2022 G 94 Percentages are undefined, but the nose suggests the CabFranc is leading the charge aromatically as well as, later on, structurally. Blue fruit/berry notes, with a decent amount of earth and forest-y elements, then in the palate a rounder creaminess develops on top of a foundation of prominent tannins and peppery acidity. It sounds big and muscly, but in fact there’s a medium-bodied, softer heart in here. 14% alc Drink now–2034 Dudley The Stud Shiraz 2020 G 93 A flagship production in massive bottle, the name pointing to the beef cattle interests of the proprietors. The nose is all about pure-bred Shiraz, dark fruits and a soft crumble of earth and spice, the palate well weighted, medium to full, with classic black plum compote flavours, a waft of oak spice and nicely introduced tannins, gentle in the finish. A big, cuddly wine. 14.5% alc Drink now–2034 Springs Road Little Island Rosé 2024 G 93 A Shiraz-based Rosé sourced from KI and McLaren Vale. The gloss in the pale pink colour is most alluring. Smells of similarly toned bush rose buds, and tastes of crunchy watermelon and strawberry, with a lightly cast grip in the finish. Lovely styling from start to finish. 12.5% alc Drink now–2026 The Islander Estate Vineyards Wally White Semillon 2022 G 93 A distinctive wine from KI, ripe fruit, aromas of hay and lemon tree flowers with creamier lemon curd flavour and texture. Barrel ferment and maturation come into play, a subtle oaked thread in the palate, while baking spice notes add tastier complexities in the finish. Quite mouth-filling and generously shaped. 13.5% alc Drink now–2030
love it. 11.5% alc Drink now–2028 Springs Road Little Island Red Shiraz/blend 2024
G 92
A new season Shiraz-driven blend designed to be poured as a youthful slurpy. There’s a lovely blueberry-like fragrance, a fruit crush kind of thing, lively to the taste, and lots of fun flavour in a medium-weighted style, yet still with proper tannin weaving through the palate. Summer barbecues await. 14.5% alc Drink now–2028 The Islander Estate Vineyards Boxing Bay Shiraz/Cabernet 2021 G 92 The art in this iteration of the traditional red blend is how all of the elements work in concert. There’s a faint nod of eucalyptus that harmonises with a peppery thread that seasons the crimson-to-black fruit profile, which tucks neatly inside just enough oak to add some weight and finishing power to the wine. Nice work. Will relish a barbecue. 14% alc Drink now–2030 The Islander Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2023 G 92 All the varietal expectations are here, tropical fruits, passionfruit, limes, yet in a more relaxed mode than many sauvignons. Herbal notes, too, with sage and lemongrass, and a quite noticeable saline thread, with subtle bitterness in the finish. Familiar, yet distinctive. 12.5% alc Drink now–2026 The Islander Estate Vineyards Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2023 G 92 A blend that looks very much at home on Kangaroo Island. Well tempered tropical notes with the citrus leaning to creamy and curd-like – barrel ferment and maturation show their influence. A lovely, evenly balanced style with top note exotics and underlying acidity and under-stated complexity. Deserved more love. 13% alc Drink now–2028
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The Islander Estate Vineyards Pétiyante Chardonnay Pinot Noir Sparkling NV
The Islander Estate Vineyards The Independence Malbec 2016
G 92
G 90
A lovely lemon cream bun note rules over this sparkling; apple pie as well, but it’s the delightfully soft mousse that wins outright in terms of the total expression and style, as well as a delicate powder-puff texture – traditional second ferment in the bottle and seven months matured with lees delivering a most delicious celebratory glass of bubbles. 12.5% alc Drink now–2028 Springs Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 91 Ripe blackberry notions to start – smells of summer berry picking and sticky juices all over the place. Much the same vibe in the palate, nicely medium-weighted with flavour and foundation balance, drying tannins tempering the fruit sweetness in the finish. Lingers with a subtle pepperiness. Craves for a decent hit of red meat. 14.5% alc Drink now–2030 Springs Road Chardonnay 2024 G 91 New season Chardonnay, fresh with definite white nectarine flavours and a little barrel ferment earthy spice. Maturation over autumn and winter has added a subtle oak depth to the palate that is keenly focused on the fruit first and foremost, with a decent textural mouthfeel to finish. All good things. 13% alc Drink now–2028 The Islander Estate Vineyards The Investigator Cabernet Franc 2019 G 91 From the IEV flagship range, in a massive bottle, sealed under cork. Attractive crimson-berried nose with some Australian bush dustiness and sea-spray notes. Big, rich palate, full-bodied yet still in a red-to-blue fruit spectrum, tobacco leaf, chewy tannins with a little bitterness. Lots to go on with this big blockbuster wine. 14% alc Drink now–2030 The Islander Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 91 Cabernet in the maritime world of Kangaroo Island. It makes sense. Classic varietal nose, blacker fruits with a green tea elegance woven through. Rich and full-bodied in style, dark bitter chocolate suggestions, soft to dry tannins direct the final stages to the exit. Solid. 14.5% alc Drink now–2034
From the flagship IEV range. Everything about this wine is big, from the bottle to the full-bodied giant that lives inside it. Ageing gracefully, bluer fruit and floral fragrances meld together, a bush and gravelly dustiness adding an earthy layering. The palate does well to pull its weight as big-time tannins wash in high-tide proportions. A bit of a brute, if you like that style. Dian cork. 14.5% alc Drink now–2030
Dudley Shearing Shed Red Shiraz/Cabernet blend 2021
G 90
A rustic Aussie red blend, Shiraz and Cabernet with a dash of Merlot, wafts of mulberry pie and a good breath of oak to start, becoming juicier as you taste, part fruit, part beef stock, yet not denying a ripe crimson fruit layer through its centre. Good knockabout campfire drinking. 13.5% alc Drink now–2029
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Cirillo Estate Wines, 1850 Grenache
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