SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE
VINTAGE JOURNAL
Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale
SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024
2025
INTRODUCTION
BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
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score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
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BAROSSA
The Barossa Valley. Photo: Wine Australia
BAROSSA
is bringing growers higher prices than their best Shiraz. Today, the best examples avoid any jamminess or the appearance of dilution. They are wines of subtlety, complexity and elegance, soft yet generous of flavour with purity of fragrances and an intriguing blend of silky/sandy tannins, and with an explosion of flavour on the finish. The variety seems to prefer older, larger oak while aromatics and structure are what distinguish the better offerings. The vast majority of the gems we tasted for this Guide for the Barossa came from one or another of these grapes, or a blend of them. The world has embraced these wines. What makes them even more special is that many of these wines derive from grapes from vines which are more than a century old. There is more, of course. Riesling and Semillon dominate the whites, although Riesling is more at home in neighbouring Eden Valley, along with Chardonnay, as well as some of the emerging Mediterranean varieties like Fiano and Vermentino (the Mediterranean having a climate reminiscent of the Barossa). Semillon is very different to that which we see from the Hunter Valley. It often enjoys time in oak, and there can be some attractive toast and honey notes, which are evident in these full-throated wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, and to a lesser extent the other Bordeaux varieties, has long had a home here. Anyone looking for the grace, perfumes and elegance that Cabernet might provide in Bordeaux or even Margaret River should stick to those regions. In warmer climates like Barossa, especially when enjoying a cooler vintage or from a cooler site, we have bold and rich wines, full of flavour, wines which will
SUMMARY KEN GARGETT REVIEWS ANDREW CAILLARD MW, KEN GARGETT, TONY LOVE, AND ANDREA PRITZKER MW
While other regions around the country may like to debate the idea, the Barossa Valley, located some 60 kilometres northeast of Adelaide in South Australia, is Australia’s most legendary wine district and one of the most famous in the world. The Barossa has had its ups and downs, not least the infamous vine pull scheme, which saw many of the ancient vines removed. World wars and economic conditions, as well as the simple ebb and flow of winelovers’ preferences, have often made things tough. Today, it is an exciting, thriving region with its wines much in demand. For much of its history, the Barossa was seen as the region for workhorse wines and, more especially, fortified wines, which dominated the industry into the 1970s. Shiraz (the Aussie name for the French Syrah) has been the driving force, and it seems to be a form of poetic justice that when things turned – notably after a visit from a group of English MWs in the 1980s and the interest shown by American critic Robert Parker over the following decade – it was thanks to supremely glorious examples of that very grape that Australian wine was suddenly a must-have around the globe. The wonderful, rich, bold, plush, and full-flavoured Shiraz from the Barossa has made an indelible mark on wine drinkers everywhere. More recently, we have seen the ultimate allrounder, Grenache, once used for everything from Rosé, fortifieds, bulk wines, blends and even muffins, suddenly become flavour of the month. The soft, juicy, strawberry-flavoured wines from this grape, often exhibiting a degree of elegance and even complexity in those made from older vines, are now pulling the prices they have long deserved. While the world knows of the glories of Barossa Shiraz, it is only just coming to terms with what Grenache offers, a variety whose history also dates back to the 1840s. The Barossa has more old Grenache than any other region in Australia, conceivably more than anywhere on earth, with more than 150 hectares of vines over 70 years old. Winemakers are excited because they have long known what can be achieved – one said to me that ‘Grenache delivers what Pinot promises’ – but for so many years, the name ‘Grenache’ on a bottle was marketing suicide. Now, top quality Grenache
The Barossa Valley. Photo: Wine Australia
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age superbly. Not so much better or worse; just different. Mataro (or Mourvèdre if you prefer to be trendy) also has an important role here. Overall, the region is home to around 40 different varieties. That said, around 75% of production is red wine and the key five varieties – Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Riesling and Semillon – represent 97% of the region’s harvest. Neighbouring Eden Valley, established for nearly as long as the Barossa, with its higher altitude and much cooler climate, is most famous for its Riesling – the early influence of the German immigrants ensured that – but it is also home to some scintillating reds, especially gloriously elegant Shiraz. Think Hill of Grace and Mt Edelstone from Henschke as examples with some superb Cabernet as well. The Riesling from Eden Valley is world famous – full of citrus, especially limes and lemons, and floral notes, clean and pristine with great length, and in later years, toast and honey complexity. Among the wineries located in these two regions, in addition to those mentioned, are Charles Melton, Elderton, Yalumba, Seppeltsfield, Grant Burge, Tuesner, Kalleske, Jacob’s Creek, Saltram, Bethany, Langmeil, Gibson, Hentley Farm, Chateau Tanunda, Rockford, Peter Lehmann, Schild Estate, St Hallett, Head, Duval, Alkina, Spinifex, Torbreck, Heggies, Pewsey Vale and many more. Many are still in the hands of the founding families, sometimes operated by their sixth generation.
The Barossa is an ever-evolving region and we are seeing more and more sub-regional blends. They remain in the minority, but they provide an exciting opportunity to examine the region in depth. Combine this with the varying vintage conditions experienced in recent years, and the days where cynics felt Aussie reds were simply ‘rinse and repeat’, year after year, are long gone. A number of vintages were prominent in recent tastings. And while time will tell us just which vintages of the last half dozen years will end up with fabled reputations, you can be certain that 2021 will be very much to the fore. A stunning year, and the top Shiraz and Grenache from the Barossa should be well represented in every cellar – especially the Shiraz. They are concentrated, richly flavoured and destined for longevity. Even better, volumes were also excellent. As with 2018, while all sub-regions made some superb reds, Greenock and Marananga were particularly impressive. Eden Valley was no less exciting – indeed, there is evidence that 2021 might prove to be a contender for vintage of the century for this cooler region. Excellent rainfall early in the 2022 season brought forth hope that we might enjoy that rather rare phenomenon, two sensational vintages in a row. And so it proved to be. Understandably, many top wines from this vintage and its predecessor have yet to hit the shelves, but what we have seen is compelling. Storms did create some havoc but if your vineyards avoided those the overall quality from across the entire region including Eden Valley is thrilling. If Shiraz took the tape in 2021, it is more than arguable that Grenache did so in 2022. McLaren Vale talks a big game when it comes to Grenache, and deservedly so, but the best from the Barossa, and especially from such a thrilling year as 2022, are more than a match. If there is anything wrong with 2023, it is simply that it is not 2021 or 2022. In other times, when we have not been so blessed, 2023 would be a year of excitement, and certainly, there are many superb wines – one assumes many more yet to arrive. If, however, Cabernet is your thing, then this might be the year for you. So far, the top Cabernets often equal or even exceed what was on offer from the preceding two years. This is partly driven by the fact that this was a very late vintage, especially given the new norms, later even than 2002. It is still too early to make any definitive statements on 2024, although there is plenty of excitement among growers. At this very early stage, the preference seems to be for Grenache, with considerable support for Cabernet, although we’ll know more in a couple of years. Shiraz seems a given. There is every reason to believe that there will be many superb wines from this vintage, and growers in Eden Valley seem especially excited.
Stonewell Vineyard, Barossa Valley. Andrew Caillard MW, 1990s, oil on boards.
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The Reviews
Penfolds RWT Bin 798 Shiraz 2022
G 99
Deep crimson. Lovely dark cherry, blackberry, hint ginger aromas with underlying marzipan notes. Beautifully balanced wine with ample dark cherry, blackberry fruits, slinky, loose-knit chocolaty/fine-grained textures and superbly integrated marzipan toasty, vanilla oak. Finishes claret firm with malty/ espresso notes. The tannins are exquisitely lithe and supple and the fruit is perfectly offset by new French oak. A standout and lasting vintage showing superb vineyard provenance and hallmark Penfolds styling. 14.5% alc Drink now–2050 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2008 G 98+ Medium deep crimson. Fresh blackberry pastille, espresso, roasted chestnut, vanilla, hint marzipan with wax polish, herb notes. Superbly balanced wine with deep set blackberry pastille, dark chocolate, roasted coffee flavours, fine chalky tannins and well-balanced vanilla marzipan roasted chestnut, hint coconut notes. Builds up graphite/ chocolaty firm with seductive sweet fruits and lovely mineral length. Lovely density, richness, and torque. This is in a really great place. I tasted the 2008 Hill of Grace mid-last year within the context of a vertical tasting, but here on its own it impressively evokes the essence of vineyard site and the character of the Henschke style of winemaking. Should last a great distance. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. 14.5 % alc Now–2040 Chris Ringland Barossa Ranges Shiraz 2016 G 98 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful pure blackberry pastille, dark chocolate, vanilla, hint marzipan aromas with touches of wax polish, liquorice. Generously concentrated wine with pure blackberry, dark chocolate flavours, superbly balanced marzipan, vanilla, malt notes and fine chocolaty, touch ferruginous textures. Liquorice notes at the finish. The oak melts into the fruit and the fruit folds into the tannins. Despite a whopping 17.9% alc the wine is balanced, buoyant and alive. Not Port-like at all. This is an exceptional vintage for Chris Ringland. Decant some hours in advance as it really does open up into something special. Drink 2026–2042 17.9% alc
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Eisenstone Hoffmann Dallwitz Ebenezer X11 Shiraz 2021
Purple Hands Wines Planta Circa Ancestor Vine Grenache 2023
G 98
G 98
Deep crimson. Intense ripe plum, strawberry hint negroni aromas with some dark chocolate spice notes. Superbly concentrated and flavourful wine with abundant strawberry pastille, raspberry, red plum flavours, lovely mid-palate viscosity and fine slinky firm tannins. Bittersweet with a touch of vigour at the finish. A brilliant wine! Drink now–or keep for a while 14% alc The Standish Wine Company Lamella Shiraz 2022 G 98 Deep crimson. Elderberry, dark plum, liquorice aromas with dark chocolate, ginger notes. Richly concentrated, dark plum, blackberry pastille, elderberry, grippy/ slinky/graphite tannins and beautifully integrated mocha, ginger oak. Chocolaty dry finish with a flow of dark berry pastille fruits. Absolutely top-notch, Drink
The grapes here hail from the Dallwitz Vineyard in the Ebenezer sub-region, belonging to the Hoffmann family. Maturation was in French oak for 20 months, 50% of which was new. The final wine, and this is the first release, is a barrel selection. The 2021 is a superb vintage. Just 400 bottles made. Black cherry/darkest purple colour, this is a wine of concentration and focus, intensity and very fine balance. The nose is full of chocolate, mocha, notes of roast meats, dried herbs, cassis and coffee beans. A wine of power and silk, muscle and elegance, and great length. Well structured, silk tannins and such an exciting future, the oak here is handled with grace. This will be stunning for at least 20 years. Drink now–2044 Eisenstone d’Or X10 Shiraz 2021 G 98 This wine is from the very best grapes the team can source each vintage – from a stellar year like 2021, we can, therefore, expect something really exciting. This year sees grapes included from the Greenock sub-region, with smaller contributions from Marananga and Ebenezer. The wine spends 20 months maturing in French oak, half of it new. 800 bottles. Dark mauve/maroon, the nose here exhibits dark chocolate notes, blueberries, woodsmoke, cassis, soy, mulberries and tobacco leaves. Good concentration, immaculate balance, intensity, drive, focus and great length here. The structure is seamless, the texture decadently supple, the oak superbly handled and the tannins the silkiest for which one could wish. This will provide pleasure for at least two decades. Drink now–2044 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2019 G 98 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant blackberry pastille, raspberry, praline, hint marzipan aromas with sage/bush garrigue notes. Supple and minerally with fresh pure blackberry, raspberry fruits, fine slinky /chalky textures, well integrated marzipan, roasted chestnut characters, attractive inky complexity and fresh long indelible acidity. Builds up brambly firm, pure and tight with star anise notes. A lovely claret style with beautiful volume and understated power. Should age very well. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. Keep for a while–2038+ 14.5% alc Langmeil Lineage Shiraz 2018 G 98 Deep crimson. Lovely roasted coffee, mocha, blackberry, panforte aromas with marzipan notes. Beautifully concentrated, smooth and long with developed choc- berry, panforte, vanilla, marzipan flavours, rich chocolaty tannins, superb mid- palate volume and well-integrated acidity. Tannins flow into a graphite-like plume at the finish. Fruit melts into the tannins. Power and elegance combined. Based on 125-year-old-plus ancestor grape vines. Drink now–2040 14.5% alc
now–2034 14.9% alc Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2014
G 98
Medium-deep colour. Very expressive with roasted coffee, black cherry pastille, cassis, mocha aromas with tobacco/hint sage notes. Beautifully balanced wine with black cherry pastille cassis fruits, loose-knit chalky/grainy tannins, superb mid-palate volume and viscosity and underlying espresso/mocha oak complexity. Finishes leafy firm with seductive dark berry fruits and a lovely tannin plume. A beautiful wine that has developed into something special and lasting. Evoking the very best of the Australian Cabernet Shiraz tradition, it’s destined to become a classic vintage of the decade. 82% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Barossa Shiraz. 20 months’ maturation in 41% new and 59% seasoned French oak barriques.
14% alc Drink 2023–2038 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2019
G 97+
Deep crimson. Beautiful cassis, blackberry pastille, roasted chestnut, espresso, herb garden, star anise aromas. Silky smooth and inky textured wine with ample blackcurrant, blackberry pastille fruits, fine loose knit graphite tannins, crunchy fresh acidity and beautifully balanced mocha, roasted chestnut, hazelnut nougat, dark chocolate notes. A lovely chalky bitter-sweet finish with a fine tannin plume. Saturated and buoyant with superb mineral length. Atypical for Hill of Grace but I suspect bottle age will haul it back into line. A fascinating vintage and a beautifully made wine. 14.5% alc Drink now–2038+
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Camino Marananga Paradigm Vineyard Shiraz 2021
Head Wines Wilton Hill Shiraz 2021
G 97
G 97
The vineyard was planted in 1965 at an elevation of 480 metres above sea level in the Barossa Ranges. Alex was keen to highlight a unique site, and he could hardly have chosen a better one. 30% whole bunches are used here; the wine spent 17 months in oak, and 25% new Troncais. This wine represents less than half of one per cent of Alex’s production, but what a cracking wine. Simply, so much here is deeply impressive. Deep maroon in colour, the nose exhibits notes of smoked meats, blackcurrants, soy, beef stock, dark berries, dry herbs, leather and bacon fat. A savoury style with serious complexity. The palate sees the flavours move more to the coffee bean, chocolate end of the spectrum. Supple, finely balanced and with great length and intensity, this is a star. A touch of almond bitterness ties up the finish. A 15- to 20-year proposition, there is so much going on here that it is impossible not to love it. Drink now–2034 Henschke Julius Riesling 2024 G 97 Pale colour. Intense lime pastille, camomile aromas with herb garden, hint flinty notes. Beautifully concentrated and pure fruited Riesling, with ample lime, lemon glacé fruits, fine bittersweet textures, a hint of tonic water and long fresh quartz- like acidity. Wonderful volume and mineral length; the fruit density offsetting the lowish alcohol beautifully. This has all the hallmarks of a classic bottling. Delicious to drink now, but bottle age complexity beckons. Drink now–2045+ Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2013 G 97 Medium deep crimson. Scented blackberry pastille, herb garden sage aromas with dark chocolate, touch tobacco leaf notes. Smooth and concentrated wine with attractive pure blackberry, mulberry, chinotto flavours, fine loose-knit chalky/ al dente textures and underlying mocha notes. Builds up powdery/ graphite firm with hints of tobacco leaf. Delicious bottle-aged wine with lovely symmetry and backbone. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. 14.5% alc Drink now–2032+ Henschke Julius Riesling, Eden Valley 2024 G 97 Pale colour. Intense lime pastille, camomile aromas with herb garden, hint flinty notes. Beautifully concentrated and pure fruited riesling, with ample lime, lemon glacé fruits, fine bittersweet textures, a hint of tonic water and long fresh quartz- like acidity. Wonderful volume and mineral length; the fruit density offsetting the lowish alcohol beautifully. This has all the hallmarks of a classic bottling. Delicious to drink now, but bottle age complexity beckons. 11% alc Drink now–or keep for as long as you like (2045+)
Winemaker Jason Barrette spent a couple of decades working with Penfolds and around the globe and has now released his own very impressive array of wines. If things continue in the manner as they have begun, expect these wines to become cult favourites. This is the flagship, hailing from a single vineyard, the Paradigm Vineyard, located in the Marananga sub-region, which is, for many, the jewel of the Barossa. The vines are 80–100 years old. It spent 19 months in American oak hogsheads. Under cork, this is a hedonistic joy. The colour is an opaque maroon. Such an alluring and gorgeous aroma here, with spices, mocha, vanilla, chocolate, black fruits, coffee grinds and some oak still evident but integrating well. A ripe style, this is compelling and utterly delicious, as one might expect from a top release from such a stellar vintage. Fine balance, extraordinary length and the silkiest of tannins, this is a 10- to 20-year proposition. These wines are really worth checking out, most especially this one. Drink now–2044 Château Tanunda The Everest Shiraz 2021 G 97 Deep crimson. Intense blackberry dark chocolate aromas with roasted chestnut notes. Richly concentrated blackberry pastille, praline, roasted chestnut marzipan, demi-glace flavours, fine loose-knit chocolaty textures and well-balanced acidity. Beautifully crafted wine with lovely density, richness and vigour. Drink now–2038 14.9% alc Cirillo 1850 Grenache 2018 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Fresh red plum, strawberry with chinotto, touch negroni notes. Attractive sweet red plum strawberry negroni flavours, lovely mid-palate volume, fine slinky textures and fresh long acidity. Delicious wine. Lovely richness and extract. A reference style for the Barossa. 1848 Grenache vines. 13.9% alc Drink 2030–2042 Curator Seppeltsfield Shiraz 2022 G 97 For me, this is the absolute star of the range, among some serious competition. From a vineyard at Seppeltsfield, which was planted back in the 1950s, the wine saw 18% of whole bunches (the remainder whole berries) in the ferment – a natural fermentation – before it was pressed to French oak, 15% new, for maturation over the next year and a half. Only 2100 bottles sealed under diam. A near-opaque maroon hue here, the aromas swirl around, giving us characters reminiscent of plush new leather, chocolate, tar, mocha, ripe plums, graphite, liquorice, bay leaves and blueberries. A creamy texture leading to fine, supple tannins, this is a wine of great length which never waivers in intensity. A 20-year proposition. Just gorgeous. Drink now–2044
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Hewitson Cask 66 Shiraz 2022
Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz 2019
G 97
G 97
9 Medium-deep crimson. Intense inky, blackberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, chinotto aromas with marzipan vanilla hint oatmeal notes. Beautifully balanced and generously proportioned wine with ample inky, pure blackberry fruits, hint of sage, supple chocolaty firm tannins and underlying praline, mocha, marzipan, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes chocolaty firm and long. A classical Barossa Shiraz style with the volume and sinuous structure to last the distance. 19 months’ maturation in 25% new French oak barriques and hogsheads, the balance in seasoned French oak hogsheads and octaves. Drink 2030–2048+ 14.5% alc Yalumba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2014 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. Beautiful cassis, dark plum, vanilla aromas with hints of tobacco leaf. Well-developed blackcurrant, dark plum fruits, a touch of liquorice, chalky firm but sinuous textures, lovely mid-palate volume and well-integrated vanilla, marzipan, roasted hazelnut notes. Finishes chalky firm and long with tobacco/espresso notes. Very well-balanced wine with lovely density, richness and volume. At a very good stage of development, but should continue to mature evenly for years to come. 21 months’ maturation in 32% new and seasoned Yalumba- coopered French barriques and Hungarian hogsheads. Some seasoned American oak as well. 14% alc Drink now–2032 Yalumba The Octavius Shiraz 2009 G 97 Medium-deep crimson. A classical Barossa Shiraz with generous blackberry, dark chocolate, liquorice aromas and hints of herb garden, polished leather and spice. Very well concentrated wine with generous blackberry, dark plum, dark chocolate, panforte flavours, plentiful loose-knit chalky firm tannins, lovely inky density and some spicy, earthy notes. Chocolaty firm finish. Wonderful complexity volume and richness. The scent and purity of the Eden Valley sings through the density and flow of Barossa Valley fruit. 20 months’ maturation in 39% new French and American oak octaves, the balance in seasoned barriques, hogsheads and octaves. 13.5% alc Drink now–2035 Kalleske Wines Greenock Shiraz 2022 G 96+ Deep crimson. Intense blackberry, dark chocolate, hint marzipan aromas with aniseed notes, Ripe and voluminous with deep-set pure blackberry, dark chocolate flavours, fine chocolaty textures and fresh black liquorice complexity. Bittersweet finish. Very appealing as a young wine with tremendous density, energy and flow. How will it age? Drink now–2030+
The reference to ‘66’ in the name here is a nod to the address of the winery, 66 Seppeltsfield Road. Every year, there is a small batch of Shiraz from one of their vineyards, which really steps up and astounds. It becomes this wine. The colour here is a deep, dark, near black/purple. The nose just screams all class, and there are notes of chocolate, aniseed, smoked meats, blackcurrants, spices, violets, plums and a little Christmas cake. The texture is seductive, supple and very much part of an impressively constructed wine while the oak is handled superbly. There is great length through to silky tannins, bright acidity and near perfect balance. A stunner which will drink beautifully for the next 15 to 20 years. Drink now–2044
Kaesler Wines Age of Light Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 97
Deep crimson. Intense cassis, black cherry, elderberry aromas with ginger, vanilla, touch leafy notes. Beautifully balanced cabernet with pure blackcurrant pastille, black cherry fruits, plentiful fine-grained/al dente/cedary tannins and well- balanced vanilla. mocha, notes. Finishes firm and tight, yet long, buoyant and pure. An exceptional Barossa Cabernet. Drink 2025–2042 13.5% alc Schild Estate Moorooroo Shiraz 2021 G 97 One of the Barossa’s elite Shiraz, from a stunning vintage and ancient vines, so it is fair to say that much was expected. It delivered in spades. The vines, known classified as Ancestor vines, were planted back in 1847. They come from the last four remaining rows of Shiraz planted by Ann Jacobs (if that name does not ring any bells, think of creeks). Under cork, 2814 bottles were made. This is an opaque maroon. The wine offers serious concentration and power with aromas weaving their way through chocolate, tar, graphite, mocha, blackberries and cassis. Finely structured with a satiny texture, fine acidity and silky tannins, there is great length here. The palate sees the emergence of more chocolate and cassis. An absolute pleasure to drink and will be for at least the next 20 years. Drink now–2044 The Standish Wine Company The Relic Shiraz 2022 G 97 Deep crimson. Intense, dark chocolate, graphite, roasted chestnut, apricot, black cherry aromas. Plush, velvety and inky deep with deep-set blackberry pastille, black cherry, apricot, dark chocolate flavours, superb fine-grained and loose-knit tannins, and integrated roasted chestnut, vanilla notes. Finishes chocolaty and minerally. Wonderful density, complexity and vigour. Drink now–2036 14.9% alc The Standish Wine Company The Standish Shiraz 2022 G 97 Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, stone fruit, aniseed aromas with beautiful vanilla, roasted chestnut, hint graphite notes. Richly flavoured and buoyant wine with ample black cherry pastille, apricot flavours, brambly textures and well- integrated new oak. Finishes grainy firm with tannin plume. Expressive and classic. Drink now–2035 14.9% alc
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Langmeil The Freedom 1843 Shiraz 2021
Charles Melton Grains of Paradise Shiraz 2019
G 96+
G 96
The fruit here hails from three of the Melton family’s best estate vineyards and spends a hefty, but hardly apparent, 28 months in American oak. The aim is a ‘darker, denser style’, in comparison to the Voices. The colour here is a vibrant maroon. This is a quintessential Barossa Shiraz and really looks good from such an excellent vintage. A few years under the belt helps. Quality Barossa fruit is evident, with a touch of oak. Notes of plums, mocha, cassis and black fruits, this is big and bold, seamless in structure with fine, satiny tannins, excellent length and immaculate balance. A 15-year proposition, if you have the patience, but superb drinking already. Such an impressive Barossa Shiraz. Drink now–2039 Chateau Tanunda 100 Year Old Vines Shiraz 2021 G 96 Incredible ancient vines are in play for this gorgeous Shiraz. Centenarian bush vines, ungrafted, the grapes are fermented in small open fermenters with hand plunging up to four times a day before basket pressing and then a couple of years maturing in French oak. The colour is near black, maroon. This is plush, ripe and serious, but seriously delicious showing generous flavours that are simply saturated. The nose gives coffee grinds, black fruits, soy, aniseed, cloves, mocha and plums. Good acidity runs the full journey and the wine is balanced, focused and offers excellent intensity, with sleek tannins. Hard to imagine anyone thinking that this is anything other than a cracking Barossa Shiraz. It simply screams of its origin and you can drink anytime over the next 15 to 20 years. Drink now–2044 Château Tanunda 150 Year Old Vines Grenache 2019 G 96 Medium crimson, Attractive musky red plum, strawberry aromas with some savoury notes. Beautifully concentrated and complex with supple red berry fruits, slinky textures, lovely mid-palate viscosity and fresh long acidity. A touch of aniseed at the finish. Drink now–2029 14.5% alc Château Tanunda Grand Barossa Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Pure ripe blackberry, cassis aromas with herb garden aniseed notes. Inky deep and flowing palate with generous ripe blackberry, blackcurrant fruits and superbly integrated tannins and savory oak. Finishes inky, minerally and dry. Superb early drinking style. Punching well above its weight. 14.5% alc Drink now– keep for a while. Chris Ringland Barossa Ranges Shiraz 2006 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Lovely black cherry, graphite, wax polish aromas with hints of cedar, mocha, roasted walnut and wood varnish. Supple black cherry, blackberry pastille, graphite, touch earthy flavours, fine loose knit chalky textures, lovely mid- palate volume and fresh long acidity. Some liquorice notes at the finish. Drinking beautifully. Drink now–2030 14.8% alc
Deep crimson. Intense dark cherry, roasted coffee, mocha aromas with liquorice notes, Smooth and velvety textured wine with lovely dark cherry, blackberry, panforte, hint black olive flavours, firm chocolaty, touch ferruginous tannins and well integrated aniseed notes, Lovely mocha, espresso notes at the finish. Opulent and resonating wine with lovely density and muscular drive. Best to drink with a touch more bottle age, although balanced and exuberantly delicious now. Made from vines over 125 years of age. Drink 2026–2042 14.8% alc Arila Gardens Single Vineyard Grenache 2023 G 96 From a vineyard planted in the Moppa sub-region in 1900, this wine has a pleasing crimson-purple hue. We have spices, but the nose is dominated by an alluring mix of strawberries, cranberries, blueberries, coffee grinds, dried herbs, smoked meats and a hint of tomato bush. A wonderful and classic nose for Grenache, the tannins are a mix of silky and silty, but certainly quite abundant. There is great length, and the structure is both balanced and seamless. This has at least a decade ahead. A cracker. Drink now–2034 Bethany LE Reserve Shiraz 2021 G 96 This is the estate’s flagship, from their best parcels of old vine Bethany Shiraz. Around one-third of the wine sees new oak, a mix of French and American. Maroon/ purple in colour, this is a stunning Barossa Shiraz, all plushness and generosity. There is some early complexity already evident, and we have aromas of dark chocolate, blackberries, kitchen spices, mocha, soy, aniseed, cold tea and mulberries. Good energy throughout, the wine has bright acidity, great length, sleek and velvety tannins. It will provide delicious drinking for at least the next 12 to 15 years. Drink now–2039 Charles Melton Sparkling Red Disgorged Sparkling Red NV G 96 One of Australia’s greatest and most popular sparkling reds, this is made in the traditional manner, with the base wine aged for around two years in oak, and then tirage bottled to spend another five years on lees before dosage. With Aussie sparkling reds, this is usually much higher than most realise, providing elevated levels of sweetness, but the acidity helps ensure balance. The final package can often age for well over a decade. Under crown seal. The colour here is a deep garnet, while the wine is rich, complex, concentrated and gorgeously exuberant. Absolutely love it. Notes of cassis, cloves, dark chocolate, aniseed, mulberries, cranberries and coffee beans. A mouth-filling style yet the balance is impressive. The sweetness here seems more in the perception than the glass and they have managed to keep it well in check. This is a great sparkling red and will drink beautifully for at least the next 10 to 15 years. Drink now–2039
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Cimicky Estate Autograph Cabernet Shiraz 2022
Eisenstone Moppa SR806 Shiraz 2022
G 96
G 96
Such an impressive example of Barossa Shiraz here, this is made from grapes harvested from the Richardson Vineyard, located on the boundary of Greenock and Moppa. It spends 20 months in French oak, half of which is new. 800 bottles. This is the darkest red colour and offers the most gorgeous perfumes. It is ripe, rich, full of life, and so very approachable. Notes of black cherries, florals, aniseed and chocolate, with a hint of cherry cola emerging on the palate. The oak has been beautifully crafted here. There is balance, intensity and even a touch of elegance throughout. There is bright acidity, energy, soft and silky tannins, and the balance really is immaculate. This has such a promising future with at least eight to 12 years ahead. Brilliant stuff. Drink now–2036 Eisenstone Richardson Vyd. Moppa SV906 Shiraz 2022 G 96 The grapes here hail from further up the slope in the Richardson Vineyard than those which provide the fruit for their Moppa Shiraz SR806. The wine spends 20 months maturing in French oak, half of which is new. 1600 bottles. Inky maroon hue, the nose reveals notes of mocha, cassis, smoked meats, soy, mulberries, aniseed, chocolate and black cherries. A really appealing nose, just gorgeous. The palate is seamless with such fine balance, silky tannins and drive. Good intensity for the full length of this very fine wine. Coffee beans emerge on the palate. This is a 15-year- plus proposition. Drink now–2039 Elderton Wines Helbig 1915 Shiraz 2022 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant and polished wine with lifted dark cherry stone fruit, vanilla hint grilled nut, wax polish aromas. Supple, inky and smooth with dark cherry, strawberry, apricot flavours, fine slinky/chocolaty textures, attractive mid- palate volume and well integrated aniseed notes. Finishes peppery and minerally. From the 1915-planted Helbig Vineyard. Drink 2026–2038 14.5% alc Grant Burge Meshach Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Liquorice, dark cherry, blackberry marzipan aromas. Generously concentrated and velvety textured with pure blackberry, praline flavours, plentiful graphite/chocolaty tannins, and attractive mocha, roasted almond notes. A classical Barossa Shiraz with the volume, richness and torque for long-term ageing. 14.5% alc Drink 2026–2045 Head Wines The Brunette Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep colour. Intense black cherry, marzipan roasted walnut aromas with a hint of wax polish. Buoyant dark cherry pastille, dark plum, blackberry fruits, lovely fine graphite, hint bittersweet tannins and well-balanced marzipan, roasted walnut notes. Finishes inky and long with dark chocolate nuances. A classical Barossa Valley Shiraz with hint ferruginous vigour. Drink now–2035 14.5% alc
Deep crimson. Lovely blackberry pastille, cassis aromas with some praline, hint fennel notes. Inky deep and voluminous with ample dark berry fruits, superb chocolaty textures, a hint of herb/leafy notes and some vanilla, marzipan oak. A touch of aniseed at the finish. A beautifully balanced wine with the richness of shiraz offset by the vigour and animation of cabernet sauvignon. Cork. Drink now–2038 14.5% alc Dandelion Vineyards Red Queen of the Eden Valley Shiraz 2022 G 96 This is the 15th vintage of the Red Queen and must surely be one of the very best they have released. The grapes hail from Colin Kroehn’s Eden Valley Shiraz vineyard, which was planted back in 1912. Maturation is in an equal mix of new and 1-year-old French oak barriques. An opaque maroon hue, this wine is generous and plush and yet manages to remain elegant and refined. Not an easy tightrope to traverse. The aromas weave through cassis, mocha, florals, chocolate, liquorice, coffee beans and delicatessen meats. The structure is seamless, the balance superb and the length excellent. Fine acidity runs the length through to silky tannins. This superb Eden Valley Shiraz will provide great pleasure, not only today, but for the forthcoming 10 to 12 years. Drink now–2036 Eisenstone Marananga SR804 Shiraz 2022 G 96 Roennfeldt Road in the Marananga sub-region of the Barossa is a bit legendary and it is home to the vineyard providing the grapes for this absolute star Barossa Shiraz. From a wonderful vintage, the wine is matured in French oak, half of it new, for 20 months. 800 bottles. Inky maroon hue, the nose swirls about a weave of aromas, including chocolate, molten dark rich chocolate, black cherries, mocha, soy, cloves and blackcurrants. Deft oak handling here, as it is across the range. A wine of drive, balance, and intensity and great length. There are soft, almost slurry-like tannins. This is still so young, but what a promising future ahead of it. Enjoy over the next 10 to 15 years. Drink now–2039 Eisenstone Mattscheoss Greenock SR901 Shiraz 2022 G 96 A stellar Barossa Shiraz, this hails from the Mattscheoss Vineyard on the western side of Greenock Creek, from vines in excess of 50 years of age. Maturation is in French oak for 20 months, half of it new. Barrel selection informs the final blend. Just 800 bottles. Black/maroon, perhaps of all the wines in the range, this was the one that really opened up after (perhaps this should read needed) time in glass. Blackberries, cassis, aniseed, cocoa powder, tobacco leaves and chocolate are all present here. The wine has real intensity, which is maintained for the full journey, and offers immaculate balance. Of all the wines in the range, this is one of the leading contenders for early complexity. There are sleek tannins here and we see notes of warm earth emerge on the palate. This has a long and promising future, with at least 10 to 15 years ahead of it. Drink now–2039
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Head Wines Old Vine Grenache 2023
John Duval Wines Entity Shiraz 2022
G 96
G 96
Deep crimson. Lovely pure blackberry, dark chocolate aromas with espresso/ marzipan notes. Deeply concentrated and classically structured with superb blackberry, praline flavours, slinky firm tannins and well integrated roasted coffee, marzipan notes. Finishes claret-like with a tang of acidity. Drink now–2036 Langmeil The Fifth Wave Grenache 2022 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Intense musky plum, violet aromas with some roasted hazelnut notes. Slinky and animated wine with lovely musky red plum, red cherry, sweet strawberry glacé notes and well balanced chalky textures. Finishes crunchy, hint peppery and pure. Super wine with seductive pure red berry fruits, sinuous textures and impressive mineral length. 14.8% alc Drink now–2027 Paulmara Estates Aristotle Shiraz 2020 G 96 Deep crimson. Classical dark chocolate, blackberry aromas with marzipan, vanilla notes. Supple and chocolaty with blackberry, dark cherry, praline, mocha flavours and persistent velvety/chalky tannins. Builds up claret firm with some roasted chestnut walnut notes. Richly flavoured, voluminous and fresh with attractive density and flow. Should develop very well. Drink now–2040 14.5% alc Paulmara Estates Areti Marananga Shiraz 2021 G 96 Opaque colour with pure blackberry pastilles, choc blackberry and earthy spices with a rich vein of toasted coconut/vanilla oak. Richly textured and flavoured cocoa, roasted meat and crushed spice flavours with firm layered tannins to finish. Drink 2028–2040 Penfolds Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Fresh blackberry dark chocolate marzipan aromas with geosmine/ graphite notes. Dense velvety wine with dark blackberry, dark chocolate, vanilla, marzipan favours and plentiful fine chocolaty / al dente tannins. Some liquorice at the finish. A beautifully concentrated wine with superb density and torque. Still needs time to integrate but a stylish vintage. 14.5% alc Drink 2026–2036 Sons of Eden Freya Eden Valley Riesling Riesling 2024 G 96 Masterfully put together wine with joyful aromas of native bush florals and lemon- saline powders, superbly balanced flavours and acidity, all singing from the same song sheet and lingering with a finely tapered finish. A complete and assured statement of variety and region. Drink now–2034
Vine age here is over 70 years, with the Riebke vineyard at Ebenezer planted back in 1950. There is also 3% (a dollop) of Mataro from Nuriootpa, not quite as old, planted in 1965. The oak used here is a mix of large French and Austrian. Stunning stuff and fabulous value. 200 dozen. A crimson/magenta hue, the nose is a mix of strawberries, florals, raspberries, milk chocolate and coffee grinds. The wine offers impressive intensity and is wonderfully seductive with silky tannins and great length. This is a brilliant Grenache and can be enjoyed for at least a decade, likely longer. Drink now–2034 Henschke The Wheelwright Shiraz 2019 G 96 Medium crimson. Intense and expressive blackberry, brambly, dark chocolate aromas with graphite, herb garden nuances. Inky deep blackberry, blackcurrant, mocha, roasted chestnut chinotto flavours, lovely sinuous chocolaty textures, attractive volume and fresh well-balanced acidity. Bitter-sweet, touch ferruginous at the finish with aniseed notes. Generous, supple and chocolaty. A classical Barossa style with a hint of Eden Valley sage. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. 14.5% alc Drink now–2034 Henschke Keyneton Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc Merlot 2021 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Pure dark cherry, hint marzipan aromas with aniseed, herb garden notes. Minerally and loose-knit in structure with pure cherry, blackberry pastille fruits, fine chalky/graphite textures, lovely mid-palate volume and fresh quartz acidity. Supple lacy finish with vanilla marzipan notes. The soupçon of new oak gives an extra level of complexity. Really delicious and satisfying wine. 63% Shiraz, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Merlot. 18 months’ maturation in 11% new and 89% seasoned oak hogsheads (82% French, 18% American). 14.5% alc Drink now–2034 Hobbs of Barossa Ranges Gregor Shiraz 2021 G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Lovely raspberry, dark plum aromas with roasted chestnut, malt, espresso notes. Beautifully balanced wine with ample raspberry confit, dark plum fruits, plentiful fine grainy tannins, superb mid-palate volume and well- balanced malt, roasted coffee, vanilla nuances. Liquorice at the finish. 15.4% alc Drink now–2034 John Duval Wines Eligo Shiraz 2020 G 96 Deep crimson. Lovely praline, blackberry aromas with hints of marzipan/vanilla/ roasted hazelnut aromas. Luxuriant pure black cherry, blackberry, cocoa, espresso flavours, fine integrated slinky textures and lovely mid-palate volume/buoyancy. Bittersweet finish lengthens the palate. Suave and classic. 14.5% alc Drink now–2036
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Yalmba The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2021
Soul Growers El Mejor Cabernet Sauvignon Mourvèdre Shiraz 2022
G 96
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Fresh blackberry, negroni aromas with vanilla, espresso notes. Supple and balanced with lovely pure blackberry pastille, chinotto, roasted almond, vanilla flavour and persistent chalky textures. Finishes firm with seductive pure dark and red berry fruits. Beautifully handled wine with the fruit, oak, tannins and alcohol all well integrated. Should develop really well. 14% alc Drink now–2035 Soul Growers Kleinig Single Vineyard Shiraz 2022 G 96 Deep crimson. Pure blackberry dark chocolate aromas with roasted chestnut notes. Richly concentrated choco-berry fruits, supple granular/touch al dente tannins, and well-balanced marzipan, toasty oak notes. Vibrant, elemental and flowing, Should develop very well. Lovely oak handling. Drink 2026–2036 St Hallett Old Block Shiraz 2019 G 96 This label was one of the earlier Barossa elites and an absolute favourite. Hard to imagine just how much was enjoyed over businessmen’s lunches. Over the years, there has been plenty of competition, but it has always hung in there and with this wine, we see it right back on top. The grapes are 83% Barossa and 17% Eden Valley. The average age of vines used here is a whopping 91 years. The colour here is an inky dark maroon. A gorgeous and gorgeously evocative nose, the wine is plush, saturated in flavours and generous. It exhibits black fruits, cassis, hints of chocolate mud cake, spices, mocha, coffee beans, cocoa powder, soy and liquorice. The use of oak is exemplary, the balance superb and the length just so impressive before finishing with satiny tannins. A 20-year proposition. Drink now–2044 Two Hands Holy Grail Single Vineyard Seppeltsfield Road Shiraz 2022 G 96 From a single vineyard in the Seppeltsfield sub-region of the Barossa, this is under diam. A vibrant purple hue here, this is still tight and restrained, but what a future it offers. We have aromas of black fruits, mocha, axle grease, cloves, liquorice, and dark chocolate. This is still very young and would benefit from a further five or six years in the cellar, before drinking it over the next 10 to 15 years. The palate sees the flavours of chocolate cake emerging. There is oak but it is well integrated. A supple structure with silky tannins, there is very serious length. Seamlessly crafted, this is immaculately balanced. Put simply, it is really good. Drink now–2039 Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2019 G 96 Deep crimson. Intense black cherry, cassis, dark chocolate, roasted chestnut aromas. Inky deep, voluminous and chocolaty with abundant dark cherry, cassis flavours, fine dense velvety tannins and well-integrated roasted chestnut, marzipan notes. Builds chocolaty firm at the finish with ample dark berry fruits. Elemental and powerfully structured wine with the density, volume and torque for long-term ageing. Keep for a while to allow the elements to fold. A high-quality vintage destined for a great cellaring future. 77% Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Barossa Shiraz. 19 months’ maturation in 24% new and seasoned French Barriques. Drink 2027–2040+
Medium-deep crimson. Intense fresh elderberry, black cherry, blackcurrant, hint praline, mint aromas with underlying roasted chestnut notes. Inky deep pure and tight with ample black cherry, blackcurrant, herb garden flavours, plentiful fine loose-knit/slinky touch al dente tannins and well-balanced roasted chestnut, vanilla notes. Finishes claret firm and minerally with some star aniseed notes. 19 months’ maturation in 23% new and seasoned Yalumba-coopered French barriques and Hungarian hogsheads. Generously concentrated wine with beautifully defined dark berry fruits, oak complexity and torque. Should develop very well. Drink 2025–2038 Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier 2022 G 96 Yalumba have long established itself as Australia’s (and one of the world’s) top producer of Viognier and the Virgilius is undoubtedly the leading example of the variety from this country. Fermentation is in mature French oak puncheons with wild yeasts, before 10 months maturation. A green-gold hue. This is a Viognier of excellence and elegance with fine acidity and serious length. The nose exhibits the classic apricot skins characters, spices, ginger and almond kernels. This is balanced, focused and intense, with a firm and yet creamy texture. Expect this to drink exquisitely for the next six to eight years. If you want to see how good local Viognier can be, this is the wine for you. Drink now–2032 Elderton Wines Command Shiraz 2021 G 95+ Medium-deep crimson. Expressive blackberry, black olive mocha roasted chestnut aromas. Rich and voluminous with ample blackberry, black cherry, dark chocolate, espresso, roasted chestnut flavours, some flinty notes and long fresh firm chocolaty tannins. Minerally and claret firm at the finish. Should develop beautifully with age.
Drink 2026–2040 14.9% alc Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
G 95+
Medium deepish crimson. Intense blackcurrant, dark chocolate marzipan, roasted hazelnut, aromas with fragrant bell pepper, rose garden notes. Fresh cassis, redcurrant, chinotto, praline flavours, fine supple loose knit graphite tannins and underlying roasted chestnut/ hazelnut notes. Finishes chocolaty firm with fresh long acidity. Medium powered wine with remarkably fine and ripe tannins. Delicious drinking now showing poise and balance, but should enjoy further development. Henschke-embossed bottle. Vino-lok seal. 14% alc Now–2032 Kalleske Wines Johann Georg Shiraz 2020 G 95+ Deep crimson. Very polished wine with lovely dark cherry, blackberry, liquorice aromas with ginger marzipan notes. Concentrated and voluminous wine with dense blackberry, marzipan, ginger flavours and firm gravelly tannins. Builds up claret firm at the finish with pure dark berry fruits and a graphite plume. Lovely wine. Drink now–2038+ 14.5% alc
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