The welcoming of tempranillo came early. The immigration of Italian and Iberian varieties, from nebbiolo to sangiovese, fiano, montepulciano, albarino, and many more. The extraordinary embrace of the famous Austrian white, Grüner Veltliner, due to the passion of Hahndorf Hill winery duo Larry Jacobs and Marc Dobson. And the addition of gamay to join its compatriot pinot noir as a champion modern red of the region. These chapters in the timeline of the Hill’s wine story reveal much about the progressive personality of the region. Arguably, the most controversial of these episodes concerned the rise of the so-called ‘natural wine’ movement during the 2010s. For some, it might have been more appropriate to call the decade the ‘ten- sions’, though the excitement generated by that younger troupe of ultra-idealistic yet often unscientific winemakers greatly enhanced the region’s profile with a new era of wine consumers. All these disparate elements come into play in this guide. More than 300 wines were submitted, close to half the number of wines entered in the official Adelaide Hills Wine Show to be judged soon after our own tastings. As a rough guide to the region’s focus, close to 60 Chardonnays were submitted, with the category of other whites next most represented at the bench with more than 30 wines from across the varietal range. Of the reds, both Pinot Noir and Shiraz were almost equal, with more than 40 wines in each class, and other reds, just behind that number. This tells us that the region is not necessarily hooked into just one or two hero wine ambassadors, even though Chardonnay, Sparklings and cool climate traditional reds are championed. It also confirms that the incredible site variation across the region allows for unrivalled dynamism regarding what can and can’t succeed. Even so, the climate and landscapes across the board enable a contemporary can-do attitude both for the wines they liberate and the community that produces them. Together, they encourage us to look and taste towards the bright side of life.
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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