McLaren Vale Wine Guide 2025

Haselgrove Wines The Cruth Shiraz 2021

Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2021

G 96

G 96

Selected from a few special rows in the Ancestor vines planted in 1891 by Andrew’s great-grandfather. Matured for two years in seasoned barriques before release. This wine unveils a trip meandering down an olive grove with a charcuterie board of black pepper-studded meats, Concord grapes, blackberries and rosemary leaf. So is its bewitchment of aromas. Freshly poured tar, nigella seed and clove. A hint of caper leaf and sage adds further intricacy. It’s a savoury palate and has ample room to develop further, say, another three to six years. A modern rendition of Australian Shiraz with the learned lessons of previous generations. Drink now–2030 Paxton Paxton Elizabeth Jean Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 96 The flagship limited release EJ Shiraz made from shiraz vines planted in 1887. A breeze of rose garden, Gala apple skin and raspberry compote bubbling on the stove. A mid palate of brittle snapped tree bark, powdered cumin and portobello mushroom. Fruit leather and undergrowth come together in sinewy tannins, the chew a delight to encounter. The wine is ready made in the vineyard it seems; it comes sewn together and curves in all the right places. Hard to imagine it gets better with age but with age comes wisdom and these vines are much older than me. Breathtaking stuff. Drink now–2032

What delights me of the Legends wine series from Haselgrove is the precision and artful way that fruit has been carefully tended and respected. Here, you’ll find two- tone mulberries, blood plums and Christmas cherries. Cassia bark, crushed clove and wattle seed. A meeting of ripe red and black berries with the supportive caress of oak. It slithers down the palate with ease, concerningly so, as you watch this special wine disappear far too quickly. Only share this with those who would share it with you! Drink now–2030 Ivyburn The Pioneer Shiraz 2021 G 96 Sourced from old vines in Blewitt Springs of McLaren Vale. The Pioneer displays an assembly of just picked blackberries, Bing cherries and boysenberries. Red rose petal, strawberry gum and paper barked stripped from the trunk. It’s alluring and yet, where the wine sings is on the palate. It is animated in its red and black fruit with a mosaic of spice, caraway, black sesame and lavender. Each sip is layered with a fine mesh of tannins and glimmering arches of acidity. A hint of bloody meat salinity rounds out the finish. There is no doubt this wine is handled with the greatest of care and attention. You need only take small sips as it over-delivers in every mouthful. Drink now–2034 Koomilya GT Block Shiraz 2021 G 96 This vintage is held with regard, and if you would like to know why, then buy this wine! Blackcurrants, raspberries and dried thyme. A chew of sweet tobacco, maple leaf and cassia bark. Mediterranean mixed olives, capers and cloves. Sultry and smooth, with just perceptible tannins – they are there, don’t get me wrong, but you’ll hardly notice as it glides down. Moreish acidity and then the wine finishes with some cured meat and ironstone. A force to be reckoned with, but not for brute force but more for compelling dignity. Drink now–2034 Ox Hardy Slate Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 96 Made using the ancient slate fermenters plunged three times daily. A potent mix of blackberries, açaí and prune plums. Black Forest cake, sage and hemp leaf. Crushed clove and black cardamom. Sinewy tannins are toted by a long line of acidity. Its intensity of black fruit and exotic spice is layered and detailed. There is kelp and graphite too. Beautifully layered together and will carry on its personality long into the future. A labour of love that shows what true preservation of history can deliver. Drink now–2034

S.C. Pannell The Vale Shiraz Grenache 2019

G 96

51% Shiraz, 49% Grenache. A quintessential McLaren Vale blend and here it is done with expert precision. Providing the vivid red fruits of Grenache with the palate weight of Shiraz. Tannins collect and boomerang the flavours back to the front palate with the added spice of clove, carob and plum jam. It’s rounded but with persistent acidity and power. Once again, as most of the S.C. Pannell range, the wines are youthful beyond belief and true works of art. Outstanding value to boot. Drink now–2030 Thistledown Wines The Vagabond Grenache 2023 G 96 Sourced from the ancient sandy soils of Blewitt Springs. Mesmerising aromas of raspberry leaf, wild strawberry and harissa spice. Bergamot orange and Campari bitters. Baked quince and Gala apple. Superbly dry tannins that intensify the flavour along the way, it’s dialled up in every way with the exception of artefact. Fine sandy texture with ethereal length. Totally beguiling. Drink now–2030 Willunga 104 Trott Vineyard Grenache 2023 G 96 10% whole bunches, basket pressed and matured for 10 months in stainless steel. The addition of raspberries and hawthorn sits over a base of black cherries and mulberry. Autumn leaves and terra cotta clay with hints of cumin spice. The palate is lavish in its sweet red berries and sumac spice. Ethereal flow of acidity and stately sandy tannins. This will make you fall in love with Grenache, if you haven’t already. Everything is in its place here. Drink now–2030

260

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

South Australia 2024

261

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