McLaren Vale Wine Guide 2025

SOUTH AUSTRALIAN WINE GUIDE

VINTAGE JOURNAL

Andrew Caillard MW Lisa Cardelli Ken Gargett Angus Hughson Tom Kline Tijana Laganin Tony Love Jeni Port Andrea Pritzker MW Shanteh Wale

SOUTH AUSTRALIA 2024

2025

INTRODUCTION

BY ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2025 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2025 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any

South Australia 2024

score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2024 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, Jeni Port, and Andrea Pritzker MW, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Tom Kline, Lisa Cardelli, and Tijana Laganin. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 5 is our first foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.

South Australia 2024

The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus

South Australia 2024

McLAREN VALE

McLaren Vale. Photo: McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association

McLAREN VALE

weightier and more powerfully built wines of 2022 and 2021. With the ease and alluring grace that Grenache encompasses, it was a standout variety. The select white wines of the region conveyed the considerate layering of texture, highlighting the efforts to make the wines tactile and with perceivable palate density. It must be noted, though, that McLaren Vale’s Grenache deserves a seat at the top table of international wines. The region, stretching over 30 kilometres, is rich in meso- and micro-climates, creating the perfect canvas for an impressive array of bottlings. From the ethereal perfumes of Blewitt Springs to the bold structure of Clarendon, McLaren Vale’s Grenache has become a world-class standout, taking the lead in both consistent quality and distinction. In McLaren Vale, history, creativity, and nature’s beauty combine to create one of Australia’s most vibrant wine regions with over 90 cellar doors. The region is producing wines that captivate both the classicist and the modern enthusiast. From world-class Grenache to new, daring varieties, McLaren Vale offers a unique experience for those in search of quality, character, and adventure.

SUMMARY AND REVIEWS: SHANTEH WALE

Never have I been more enamoured and captivated by the wines of McLaren Vale. Leave your expectations at the door, for McLaren Vale has a whole new groove. Since the time of the original inhabitants, the Kaurna people, who made the coastlines of the Fleurieu and Yorke Peninsulas their home more than 7000 years ago, this land has been revered. Just a 45-minute drive from Adelaide, you’ll find yourself in a coastal haven where the temperate Mediterranean climate benefits from strong maritime influences of the sea. Bordered by metropolitan Adelaide to the north, the Mt Lofty Ranges to the southeast, and the broad Gulf St Vincent to the west, McLaren Vale is arguably now recognised as South Australia’s most dynamic wine region. Today, it’s a region of sprawling beaches, rugged shorelines, and rolling hills dotted with some of the finest wineries and cellar doors. The warm summers, moderate winters and winter-dominant rainfall make it an ideal place for the vine to flourish. With over 180 years of rich winemaking history, McLaren Vale has firmly established itself as one of Australia’s most celebrated wine regions. Free from phylloxera and renowned for its innovative, sustainable, and forward- thinking viticulture, McLaren Vale is leading the way in contemporary Australian winemaking. Sixty-five per cent of the region’s annual water demand is from a sustainable source, and it stands today as the most environmentally sustainable wine grape growing region in Australia. So, too, is how the region’s winemakers are making judicious decisions when it comes to the choice of maturation vessel. Fewer new oak applications make way for amphora and concrete tulips, stainless steel and seasoned puncheons. Precision in fruit picking times is key, and the subtle nuances of each unique site and terroir shine through in the final wines, creating expressions that are both authentic and compelling. With its blend of ancient soils and well-established vineyards, McLaren Vale is embracing new, progressive varietals from fiano, chenin blanc, tempranillo and nero d’Avola while continuing to showcase mastery with the classic grapes shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, and chardonnay. The 2023 vintages showcased perfume and finite elegance compared to the richer,

Grenache Gourmet Vines, Sunset Coriole, 2023

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Younger than 500 million years LEGEND

Burnham Limestone

The Reviews

Marino

Water

Holocene (11 700 years to present day) SEMAPHORE SAND MEMBER: Quartz beach sand SEMAPHORE SAND MEMBER: Coastal dune sand Beach gravel

( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( ( (

Unconsolidated sand dunes, drapes and spreads

Talus gravel, sand and clay Alluvial sand in active stream channels Alluvial clay of raised terraces of Onkaparinga River

MMAD Vineyard Chenin Blanc 2023

G 97

Happy Valley Reservoir

Alluvial clay of valleys

Hallett Cove

Pleistocene (2.6 million to 11 700 years)

OCHRE COVE FORMATION: Iron-mottled pebbly sandstone KURRAJONG FORMATION: Clayey sand and silica-cemented conglomerate BURNHAM LIMESTONE: Fine-grained limestone PIRRAMIMMA SANDSTONE and SEAFORD FORMATION: Yellow and buff sandstone, pebbly sandstone, clay NGALTINGA FORMATION: Grey and red mottled clay; commonly capped with calcrete CHRISTIES BEACH FORMATION: Alluvial fan clay, sand and gravel

Following the heights of the 2022 vintage, the 2023 is leading the charge once again for a modern linear style of Chenin Blanc. This 2023 throwing out lifted perfume of calla lily, fresh linen and yellow grapefruit pith. There is hulled almonds and raw cashew cream, kefir acidity and a coconut water freshness. Wet stone, crystal melon and white-rind cheese. It has an exfoliating, almost gritty sensation that adds further dimension and texture. A long, extended flavour palate hits the nail on the head for the moreish, drinkable quality it’s gaining a reputation for. Ideal with steamed clams and ginger sauce. Drink now–2025

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Pliocene (5.3 to 2.6 million years)

Clarendon

HALLETT COVE SANDSTONE: Calcareous fossiliferous sandstone

Lonsdale

Iron-cemented surface on bedrock

Oligocene (34 to 23 million years) PORT WILLUNGA FORMATION: Fossiliferous limestone

Mount Bold

SOUTH MOUNT LOFTY RANGES

Reservoir

Eocene (56 to 34 million years)

O'Sullivan Beach

Carboniferous–Permian (c. 300 million years) CAPE JERVIS FORMATION: Pebbly and bouldery claystone; sandy, laminated claystone with dropstones NORTH MASLIN and SOUTH MASLIN SANDS: Cross-bedded medium and coarse-grained sand BLANCHE POINT FORMATION: Glauconitic, fossiliferous calcareous siltstone; hard cherty bands; glauconitic TORTACHILLA LIMESTONE at base Iron-cemented sand (?NORTH MASLIN SAND)

Christies Beach wastewater treatment plant

Baker Gully

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Christies Beach

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MCLAREN FLAT ROAD Kangarilla

Bekkers McLaren Vale Syrah Grenache 2022

G 96

Port Noarlunga

Sand

Deep crimson. Inky, chinotto dark plum, elderberry, blackberry aromas with hint marzipan, praline note. The palate is beautifully concentrated, with plentiful dark berry, roasted chestnut, marzipan, slightly dark chocolaty flavours, and fine slinky yet sinuous textures. Finishes chalky and minerally with chinotto notes. A superb

Blewitt Springs

KNOTTS HILL ROAD

Old Noarlunga

Ì 72

wine. Drink now–2028 Bekkers McLaren Vale Syrah 2022

Ì 54

Sand

24 McLaren Flat

G 96

43 10

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McLaren Vale

Ochre Point

Rocla North

63 62

Hanson

Fruit is sourced from 46% Clarendon and 54% Seaview in the incarnation. This is the first inclusion of the Clarendon vineyard site into this wine bottling. Matured 56% new French oak puncheons. Blackberries on the bush, hibiscus and sandalwood. Bing cherries, hawthorn and Kalamata olive pit. There is a balsamic note on the baseline with sparks of purple florals. A twinge of lavender here and there. The even ripeness of fruit is profound on the palate with sweet cherries taking centre stage. Acidity is long, and stretched like a violin string; tannins are fine and powdery. It’s a vintage that displays the compact clarity of McLaren Vale fruit, instantly seductive but with true grit and soul for the long haul. Drink now and will cellar beautifully for 8–10 years onwards. A nice dish to accompany it might be Dover sole on the bone with black olives and native greens. Drink now–2034 Coriole Vita Reserve Sangiovese 2022 G 96 Matured for 20 months in seasoned oak. Well, this is coffee and spice and all things nice, a delectably edible wine. Morello cherries, wild hibiscus and blood plums. Orange bitters, espresso and tiramisu. Cinnamon quills, walnut and cedar. Tidal wave of thrilling acidity and a sand blast of tannins but all held in place by exquisite fruit. This is a demonstration in why Reserve wines are worth your dollars and sense! Drinking beautifully now and will age glacially. Bravo, Coriole. Drink now–2034

Rocla

Maslin Beach

Blanche Point

Port Willunga

Older than 500 million years LEGEND

Snapper Point

DELAMERIAN OROGENY: Folding and cleavage formation, c. 500 million years Barite vein Quartz vein NORMANVILLE GROUP: c. 520 million years FORK TREE LIMESTONE: Pale grey limestone with archaeocyaths HEATHERDALE SHALE: Dark grey, slaty siltstone with black phosphate nodules

Willunga

Burnham Limestone

SELLICK HILL FORMATION: Dark grey, ribboned, silty limestone WANGKONDA FORMATION: Massive, dark grey limestone

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MOUNT TERRIBLE FORMATION: Arkosic grit, overlain by siltstone and sandstone

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WILPENA GROUP: c. 600 million years BUNYEROO FORMATION: Maroon, fine-grained siltstone ABC RANGE QUARTZITE: White, cross-bedded quartzite

Aldinga Scrub (CP)

Aldinga Water Storage

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PORT STANVAC SANDSTONE MEMBER: Laminated and cross-bedded red sandstone

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SEACLIFF SANDSTONE: Pale grey and red sandstone, quartzite and red siltstone BRACHINA FORMATION: Red and green siltstone and fine-grained sandstone NUCCALEENA FORMATION: Laminated pink dolomite UMBERATANA GROUP: c. 650 million years REYNELLA SILTSTONE MEMBER: Mostly massive siltstone with small rock fragments

Silver Sands

ELATINA FORMATION: Pink-brown sandstone with red granule bands

TAPLEY HILL FORMATION: Calcareous siltstone and sandstone; intraclastic and stromatolitic limestone BRIGHTON LIMESTONE: Massive oolitic limestone WILMINGTON FORMATION: Massive, green-grey, fine-grained sandstone Laminated to rippled, grey to green siltstone MARINO ARKOSE: Lime-cemented, gritty arkose and minor limestone ANGEPENA FORMATION: Rippled, mud-cracked, red siltstone; fine-grained sandstone Dark grey, very thinly laminated, slaty siltstone TINDELPINA SHALE MEMBER: Laminated, pyritic, black shale and dolomite

Sellicks Beach

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STURT TILLITE: Massive, cleaved, pebbly and boulder siltstone (diamictite)

Gritty arkose lenses

Sandstone layers Laminated siltstone layers

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285000 BURRA GROUP: c. 750 million years BELAIR SUBGROUP: Laminated, grey siltstone Quartzite layers MITCHAM QUARTZITE: Massive, coarse-grained, feldspathic quartzite 286000 287000 288000 289000 STONYFELL QUARTZITE: Feldspathic quartzite, sandstone, siltstone SADDLEWORTH FORMATION: Laminated dark grey and green siltstone Quartzite layers PALAEOPROTEROZOIC BASEMENT (c. 1600 million years) BAROSSA COMPLEX: Gneiss, schist ALDGATE SANDSTONE: Feldspathic, pebbly sandstone; heavy mineral cross-laminations MONTACUTE DOLOMITE: Blue-grey, thinly bedded dolomite with black chert lenses WOOLSHED FLAT SHALE: Laminated and sandy grey-green siltstone Brecciated WOOLSHED FLAT SHALE

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Scale: 1:50 000

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Kilometres

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Geological boundary and fault

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Vineyard Mclaren Vale Wine Region Aldinga Scrub Conservation Park

Water storage Sand or clay pit Winery

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Roads Secondary road Track

Conformable contact Intrusive contact Erosional contact Concealed fault Fault

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GDA 94 Map projection Transverse Mercator Zone 54

Watercourse River

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GEOLOGY OF THE McLAREN VALE WINE REGION

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Source: McLaren Vale Grape Wine & Tourism Association

Haselgrove Wines The Cruth Shiraz 2021

Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2021

G 96

Selected from a few special rows in the Ancestor vines planted in 1891 by Andrew’s great-grandfather. Matured for two years in seasoned barriques before release. This wine unveils a trip meandering down an olive grove with a charcuterie board of black pepper-studded meats, Concord grapes, blackberries and rosemary leaf. So is its bewitchment of aromas. Freshly poured tar, nigella seed and clove. A hint of caper leaf and sage adds further intricacy. It’s a savoury palate and has ample room to develop further, say, another three to six years. A modern rendition of Australian Shiraz with the learned lessons of previous generations. Drink now–2030 Paxton Paxton Elizabeth Jean Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 96 The flagship limited release EJ Shiraz made from shiraz vines planted in 1887. A breeze of rose garden, Gala apple skin and raspberry compote bubbling on the stove. A mid palate of brittle snapped tree bark, powdered cumin and portobello mushroom. Fruit leather and undergrowth come together in sinewy tannins, the chew a delight to encounter. The wine is ready made in the vineyard it seems; it comes sewn together and curves in all the right places. Hard to imagine it gets better with age but with age comes wisdom and these vines are much older than me. Breathtaking stuff. Drink now–2032

What delights me of the Legends wine series from Haselgrove is the precision and artful way that fruit has been carefully tended and respected. Here, you’ll find two- tone mulberries, blood plums and Christmas cherries. Cassia bark, crushed clove and wattle seed. A meeting of ripe red and black berries with the supportive caress of oak. It slithers down the palate with ease, concerningly so, as you watch this special wine disappear far too quickly. Only share this with those who would share it with you! Drink now–2030 Ivyburn The Pioneer Shiraz 2021 G 96 Sourced from old vines in Blewitt Springs of McLaren Vale. The Pioneer displays an assembly of just picked blackberries, Bing cherries and boysenberries. Red rose petal, strawberry gum and paper barked stripped from the trunk. It’s alluring and yet, where the wine sings is on the palate. It is animated in its red and black fruit with a mosaic of spice, caraway, black sesame and lavender. Each sip is layered with a fine mesh of tannins and glimmering arches of acidity. A hint of bloody meat salinity rounds out the finish. There is no doubt this wine is handled with the greatest of care and attention. You need only take small sips as it over-delivers in every mouthful. Drink now–2034 Koomilya GT Block Shiraz 2021 G 96 This vintage is held with regard, and if you would like to know why, then buy this wine! Blackcurrants, raspberries and dried thyme. A chew of sweet tobacco, maple leaf and cassia bark. Mediterranean mixed olives, capers and cloves. Sultry and smooth, with just perceptible tannins – they are there, don’t get me wrong, but you’ll hardly notice as it glides down. Moreish acidity and then the wine finishes with some cured meat and ironstone. A force to be reckoned with, but not for brute force but more for compelling dignity. Drink now–2034 Ox Hardy Slate Shiraz Shiraz 2022 G 96 Made using the ancient slate fermenters plunged three times daily. A potent mix of blackberries, açaí and prune plums. Black Forest cake, sage and hemp leaf. Crushed clove and black cardamom. Sinewy tannins are toted by a long line of acidity. Its intensity of black fruit and exotic spice is layered and detailed. There is kelp and graphite too. Beautifully layered together and will carry on its personality long into the future. A labour of love that shows what true preservation of history can deliver. Drink now–2034

S.C. Pannell The Vale Shiraz Grenache 2019

G 96

51% Shiraz, 49% Grenache. A quintessential McLaren Vale blend and here it is done with expert precision. Providing the vivid red fruits of Grenache with the palate weight of Shiraz. Tannins collect and boomerang the flavours back to the front palate with the added spice of clove, carob and plum jam. It’s rounded but with persistent acidity and power. Once again, as most of the S.C. Pannell range, the wines are youthful beyond belief and true works of art. Outstanding value to boot. Drink now–2030 Thistledown Wines The Vagabond Grenache 2023 G 96 Sourced from the ancient sandy soils of Blewitt Springs. Mesmerising aromas of raspberry leaf, wild strawberry and harissa spice. Bergamot orange and Campari bitters. Baked quince and Gala apple. Superbly dry tannins that intensify the flavour along the way, it’s dialled up in every way with the exception of artefact. Fine sandy texture with ethereal length. Totally beguiling. Drink now–2030 Willunga 104 Trott Vineyard Grenache 2023 G 96 10% whole bunches, basket pressed and matured for 10 months in stainless steel. The addition of raspberries and hawthorn sits over a base of black cherries and mulberry. Autumn leaves and terra cotta clay with hints of cumin spice. The palate is lavish in its sweet red berries and sumac spice. Ethereal flow of acidity and stately sandy tannins. This will make you fall in love with Grenache, if you haven’t already. Everything is in its place here. Drink now–2030

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Willunga 105 Smart Vineyard Grenache 2023

Bekkers Grenache 2022

G 95

G 96

Medium-deep colour. Pure dark plum, musky, dark cherry, raspberry, strawberry aromas with violet, Turkish delight notes. Supple and fleshy with lovely pure fruit flavours, slinky textures, very good mid-palate viscosity and plenty of mineral length. A sweet-fruited finish with a touch of aniseed. Classical and delicious. Drink now–2025 Bekkers Tome Syrah Cabernet Sauvignon Grenache 2022 G 95 Deep crimson. Intense dark plum, blackberry pastille, dark cherry, dark chocolate, hint marzipan aromas. Classical, generous and round with dark plum, dark cherry fruits, fresh chalky/hint grippy textures and underlying marzipan vanilla oak notes. Lovely weight, texture and flow with a crispy finish. Delicious to drink now. Drink now–2028 Curtis Wines Limited Series Shiraz 2021 G 95 A heady mix of violet, lavender and blackberry bush. Scattering of black olives and rosemary stem. Fruit is looking smart indeed with a veil of youth cloaked upon it. There are sappy tannins that evenly distribute throughout. A bright cranberry juice acidity and a feel of indulgence without being heavy. Oak communicates with cassia bark and vanilla specks. Still a while left in these legs; careful cellaring will see you through another five years. A classy drop. Drink now–2029 Curtis Wines Ancestor Shiraz 2021 G 95 A wondrous perfume of blueberries, violet and blackberries. Two-tone mulberries and blossoming wisteria. Crushed cardamom and allspice with a slice of earthy beetroot. Taut acidity keeps the wine funnelling down the palate. This could almost be a long-estranged Aussie cousin of Amarone; its tannins are a fine mesh of steel that drives the flavour forward. A carob and black tea bitterness adds further complexity. A towering figure of McLaren Vale’s power and beauty. Drink now–2030 Dandelion Vineyards Faraway Tree Grenache 2023 G 95 Wild cherries, brambles and blueberries. Blood plum juice and the perfume of tea roses. A savoury paperbark note coupled with tobacco pouch and cassia bark. Tannins are dusty and fine with an innate line of acidity. The wine is well integrated, shying away from the primary cordial and confectionery-like red fruits and, instead, offering more of the softer spices and earthy things. A touch of Swiss mushroom and autumn leaves. This is made for enjoying now, as it has come together in perfect harmony. It drinks like a gentle breeze on a warm day; welcome it in. Drink now– 2027

Whole berry ferment, basket pressed to majority stainless steel. A cacophony of raspberries, blood plums and cherry Liqueuer. Campari, bramble and quince. Astute tannins carried by poignant acidity. This feels like walking into a fancy day spa, expensive oils and running water over bedrock. It’s heavenly, and combines all the intoxicating spice of bush vine grenache with a deft hand at texture and frame. Sensational and hard to put down. Drink now–2030

Wirra Wirra The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

G 96

A torrent of nostalgia is wrapped up in this wine, mostly because it captures the landscape of Australian bush and all the cassis fantasies of Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberries on the vine, crushed gumleaf, prune plums and mulled wine. There is worn earthenware floor and beams of railway sleeper, grated nutmeg and wattleweed. Its tannin frame is ornately detailed with sturdy foundations but artfully designed. A hint of mushroom and black olive too. A fine drink now and will handle another 8–10 in the cellar to bring out those otherworldly flavours. Drink now–2034 Wirra Wirra Chook Block Shiraz 2021 G 96 A whirlpool of a wine; look closely, and you’ll find a mosaic of complexity in its depth. Drink swiftly; blink and it will be gone. So is the magic of true artisan winemaking. Here, the wine opens with glimmering blackcurrants and Bing cherries. A shard of red toffee apple. Caper leaf, Nyons olives and black cardamom pods. Its shape and form nothing short of delectable, perfectly ripe and smooth like silk. You can feel the pedigree of these grapes and oak tones sitting resting in the backseat. An aristocratic sense of poise. Stately. Drink now–2030 Battle of Bosworth Heretic Touriga, Mataro, Graciano, Shiraz 2023 G 95 The walk on the wild side begins with the dark inky stain and magenta hues in the glass. The wine is buoyant with smooshed cherries, top-of-the-tree plump mulberries and blackberry pie. Purple shiso leaf, violets and capers. Its herbal side is magnetic and draws you in for another glass. Acidity is enervated and continues the charms. Greater than the sum of its parts, this is pure enjoyment and just so darn savvy. Drink now–2028 Battle of Bosworth White Boar Shiraz Cordon Cut 2023 G 95 A bit of an enigma, this wine. I suggest you read less about it and taste more. Magenta in hues, you’ll find violets and beetroot earth tones. Wild blackberries and blackcurrant jam, soft liquorice and charred rosemary. Tannins sing to the high heavens in echoing dryness with a choir of thrilling acidity. Very rarely is this style done with such conviction. Alcohol moves through the wine like a second skin. It’s captivating and totally delicious. Drink now–2034

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Dandelion Vineyards Moonrise Kingdom Grenache Petite Sirah 2023

In Praise of Shadows Kokoro Shiraz 2022

G 95

Blackberries and thorny bush fruits. Soft liquorice and carob. Gritty succulent potting soil with hints of long pepper and caraway spice. Perky in its uplifts of acidity followed by a spot of blueberries and prune plums. It has a solid shape, almost cube-like, that defines its character, powdery tannins and acidity that keep it upright, but with a mid palate that fills in the outline. Vibrant and with well designed structural elements built for the long haul. Will cellar well for another eight years. Drink with venison and pepper sauce. Drink now–2032 Haselgrove Wines The Ambassador Shiraz 2021 G 95 Davidson plum, wild cherry and rose petal. Sweet tobacco, tonka bean and sumac spice. Tannins are silky and fine with quite agile acidity. This is well integrated and drinking very well now. Plenty of poise and restraint with oak handling. Its time in bottle has gradually transformed this into a real beauty. Drink now–2028 Haselgrove Wines Col Cross Shiraz 2021 G 95 The Col Cross speaks of an alchemist’s place of work. Tinctures of exotic red fruits, cherry liqueur and steeped teas. Bitter herbs, gnarled root and coffee bean. It’s lively on the palate with a pep in its step, fruit is well captured here. A very smooth drink indeed. A touch of mysticism about this wine. Drink now–2030 Heirloom Vineyards Alcala Grenache 2023 G 95 A cordial of apple and raspberry, cranberry and Christmas cherries. Bergamot and rosella blooms. The palate unfurls with fruit first and then a traveller’s spice box of wonderous things. Amchoor powder, harissa, saffron and pink peppercorn. Its tannins intertwine and create a basket for which to carry the flavours. Acidity arches and falls elegantly. Here, you do not see the cracks that Grenache can sometimes bring, alcohol is in check, medicinal or confectionary fruit? Not here. This is very impressive and rings in harmony for a long time. Heavenly. Drink now–2030 In Praise of shadows Komorebi Grenache 2023 G 95 60% whole bunch, 25% extended maceration in eggs, and 15% destemmed oak elevage. All Clarendon fruit. Persimmon fruit, wild raspberries and quince bitters. Peach rose, Aperol and goji berry. A swathe of mighty acidity followed by fine interlocking tannins. There are Alpine strawberries and cinchona bark on the finish. This falls into the fine and ethereal Grenache realms with such pretty tones of rouge and tangerine that you might forget it has such robust structure. It will outlast most fair-weather friends. A ‘smart’ wine indeed, with plenty of soul. Memorable to the core. Drink now–2034

30% whole bunches in the middle layer of ferment. Blewitt Springs fruit. ‘Whoa, where are we?’ is my first thought, as I draw the wine to my nose. Blackcurrant, prune plums, olive tapenade and chipotle. A weave of thyme and woodsy rosemary stem. This drinks like a cool climate Syrah style but with the added beguile of being clearly Blewitt Springs. I’m enamoured. A sappy and savoury palate with the whole bunch adding further scope of aromatics. Acidity is fine and airy; the Blewitt Springs tends to perform in the glass. It’s meaty yet pretty, crunchy yet plush. A true wine

for contemplation. Drink now–2030 James Haselgrove Futures Shiraz 2021

G 95

We are in the depths of the cellars here with blackberry compote, coffee liqueur and cardamom pods. This is chock full of cassis and boysenberry jam on the palate. Underpinned by mocha, wattleseed and paper bark. Tannins are gritty and drying but maintain the upright foundations. The compactness of tannins holds your attention and gaze and pulls you back in for another sip. A wealth of fruit, spice and savoury layers to unpack. Take your time. Drink now–2030 Koomilya Cabernet Touriga 2021 G 95 This bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon and Touriga has them getting along like great old mates. Cassis and kirsch meet bilberry and granite. There is a backdrop of perilla leaf and thistle with star anise and allspice along for the ride. Tannins frame the wine and a nostalgic hint of black pepper comes through to finish. It’s got muscle, but elongation too. Drink now–2034 Lloyd Brothers Western Block 1 Shiraz 2022 G 95 Matured for 16 months in French oak. A posey of lavender and rosella flowers. Cassis and kirsch, blackberries and cassia bark. Star anise and five spice with Davidson plum. Walking the fine line of ripe and not quite jammy, this is beautiful poised. Acidity sucks at the palate, compacting the fruit concentration and drawing out the vanilla bean notes. It’s graceful and delivers pedigree and finesse. Drink now–2032 Mr Riggs Burnt Block Shiraz 2021 G 95 Bramble, blackcurrant and kirsch. Russian cherry tea and black cardamom. The wine arches with lashings of fresh acidity and silty tannins. It’s shaped like a triangle where the highest point is black-fruited tones, and oak and spice provide the steep sides. Cocoa nib, tonka bean and black sesame. It’s moreish and shows some cool climate elements within its make-up. Enchanting. Drink now–2030

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Oliver’s Taranga Fiano Fiano 2024

S.C. Pannell Diavola Nero d’Avola 2023

G 95

Alphonso mango skin, cantaloupe and lemon balm. Yellow peach and honeysuckle. A wealth of fruit weight with a tread of natural, elegant acidity. There is a creaminess of custard apple and lemon curd with a dry finish and salted peanut brittle note. The meaty nature of Fiano is captured here with the cascade of refreshing citrus pulp. It makes for enjoyable drinking on its own or could easily sit beside almost any entree or main course dish. This will get you obsessed with Fiano. Drink now–2028 Oliver’s Taranga Falanghina Falanghina 2024 G 95 The edible delights of Falanghina can be found here. A buffet fit for Pooh Bear. Blush peaches, apricot, Meyer lemon and jars of oozing honey. Cashew praline, honeysuckle blossoms and nectar. The palate rounds the corner with its U-turn of dryness and then explodes with candied pear, peach and dried mango. Swiftly followed by halva, roast almond butter and cumin. Excellent example of the variety grown by the sea and sun of McLaren Vale. Drink now–2027 Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vine Shiraz 2015 G 95 Selected from a few special rows in the Ancestor vines planted in 1891 by Andrew’s great-grandfather. Matured for two years in seasoned barriques before release. Copper penny, dried goji and stewed figs. Adzuki bean, sumac spice and raspberry leaf. The wine feels as though it has been poured into its slinky dress of fine acidity and powdery tannins. A crunch still left in the redcurrants and cherry skin. There is cumin and grated nutmeg oak spice and a mellow, almost treacle-like bitterness. Flavour for days, reminiscing of years of yonder. This is what great age-worthy wine is all about. Drink now–2028 Paxton Quandong Farm Shiraz 2022 G 95 100% Single Vineyard Shiraz. Matured for 12 months in French oak. Top-of-the- tree mulberries and Bing cherries. Blood plums, lilac and mocha spice. The wine captures a sweet roasted beetroot note that lingers past its fresh acidity and pillowy tannins. A subtle touch of cassia bark and cedar. The fullness of middle palate is striking and charged. A wine with both richness and dexterity. Drink now–2028 Penny’s Hill Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023 G 95 Matured for 16 months in French barriques. Small compact cabernet berries can be detected here. There is a hint of lilac and underbrush, Christmas cherries and plum skin. Kampot peppers, shiso and sage leaf. A wealth of fresh redcurrant acidity and fine lace of tannins. It’s dialled up in its rigour with a spice trail of sumac, paprika and poppy seed. Here, we see the McLaren Vale ardour with the cellar potential of a decade or so. Impressive stuff. Drink now–2032

Steeped hibiscus, shiso mint, boysenberry swirls. A subtle hint of Maynard’s blackcurrant wine gums with grated liquorice root and ginger hanging out in the backseat. Oolong tea tannins that gravitate to the side of the palate with lingering acidity. This is hold-your-breath good Nero (a bit like that moment when Neo stops the bullets in The Matrix ). It’s seductive in its fruit plushness but with a mighty nervous system of texture. Totally beguiling, there is no spoon. Drink now–2026 S.C. Pannell Merrivale Shiraz 2021 G 95 A heady wine with elevated intensity of blackcurrants, juniper and olive tapenade. Assam tea leaf, dried pine needle and wood ear mushroom. It’s stonkingly youthful for its age and only just beginning to hit its stride. Red cherries and mulberry open on the palate and a touch of coconut cream pie surprises. It’s a bit of an enigma this wine, unique for its boldness and supple palate. Tannins are powdery and acidity drives the wine but doesn’t shrill. This is all about site and the character of the block. If you haven’t tasted it, you should; you won’t forget it easily. Drink now–2030 S.C. Pannell Little Branch Grenache Grenache 2022 G 95 The first single vineyard release from the estate-owned 9-ha site in Blewitt Springs. Vine age is 30 years old. Attention here is key because the fragrance of this wine is ethereal and delicate. Almost like the bouquet you get from a tea rose right before you bring it to your face. Lingonberry compote, cranberry and blush nectarines. Powdered sumac and strawberry icing. Tannins are a filigree of interwoven silk and acidity hums along. Fine, lithe and linear. One to watch. Drink now–2030 Thistledown Wines Distant Light Grenache Shiraz 2022 G 95 A harmonious blend of McLaren Vale’s Blewitt Springs and Clarendon Grenache, and Shiraz from Barossa’s Ebenezer and Mengler Hill. A reminder of why these two varieties sit so well together. Raspberries, fig hearts and mulberries meet a Moroccan souk spice house. Woodsy herbs intertwine with rosemary and bay leaf. Succulent with Grenache’s elevated acidity and a delightfully plump middle palate density. Tannins are woven into the wine and you’re left with a sultry smooth drink. Unhindered by new oak, this wine is heavenly in its purity and form. Drink now–2034 Varney Wines Limited Release Grenache 2023 G 95 Old bush vine stock 70-plus-year vine age. Sourced from Blewitt Springs, Seaview and Whites Valley. Matured for eight months in seasoned French oak. A mauve garden of lilac and lavender. Fresh picked mulberry and lingonberry. Dried autumn leaves and cassia bark. A crunch from fresh acidity gives way to a torrent of powdery fine tannins; these spread out across your palate like a fernery. It’s agile, but the staying power of those tannins makes for a long, extended palate. Gala apple skin and a touch of clove. The love of Grenache is felt right here in the glass. Blissful. Drink now–2030

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Willunga 102 Blind Spot Vineyard Grenache 2023

Clarence Hill Reserve Shiraz 2021

G 95

G 94

Whole berry ferment, basket pressed. Matured for 10 months, majority in stainless steel. Arching perfumes of lilac and bush rose. Bilberries and boysenberries with powdered cinnamon and nutmeg clouds. A donut shape threaded with a laser line of acidity and powerful but silt-like tannins. It is unique in its blue and black fruit spectrum and dances to its own beat. A touch of caraway and sesame on the finish. Intriguing to see how this will change with time, but for now it’s utterly delicious. Drink now–2030 Willunga 103 Blind Spot Vineyard Moritz Block Grenache 2023 G 95 Open ferment basket pressed and matured in 500L puncheons for 10 months. Two tone mulberries, raspberry coulis and smoked bonito. Kombu, winter pine and nigella seed. Fruit is deeply pigmented and inky with alluring hints of sandalwood and clove. Oak notes sit firmly behind what can only be called bedazzling fruit structure. Acidity is fine and elegant with gritty tannins that flow across the palate. It’s a journey of a wine that requires your full attention and time. Fascinating. Drink now–2030

Red bean, rooibos tea meets sweet cherries in syrup, blackberries and quince. There is espresso and chocolate caramels, nutmeg and cedar. There is a richness from oak spice that slips well into the heart of the wine without dulling the fruit weight. This has reaped the benefits of time but relaxing into its quite significant spice box. Many of folk seek out this alluring style and this has been matured beautifully. A thinker’s Shiraz. Drink now–2026 d’Arenberg The Coppermine Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 G 94 Cassis and kirsch, fig hearts and blackberry soothers. A twinge of electric acidity keeps this wine drinking quite fresh. There is a cabernet sauvignon leaf note unpinned by sappy skin tannins and old spice oak tones. Cedar, maple and cinnamon. No shying away from its grainy tannin base, this will continue to cellar well. Drink now–2030 Mr Riggs JFR Shiraz 2021 G 94 A core of bright red and ripe raspberries and mulberries. Soft liquorice encases the briary notes with sage and rosemary stem. A touch of cassis and white pepper. Silken in its tannins and laser focus acidity. Punchy and youthful, this still has a way to go in its career. Oak is significant but not a distraction, fruit is front and centre. An excellent value wine. Paxton Jones Block Shiraz 2021 G 94 This site shows a well of blackberries, prune plums and açaí. Crushed allspice, black peppercorn and bitter chocolate. Glossy oak tones take the stage with vanilla bean, cola and boot polish. It’s electrically charged and built for the long haul, a touch of salted liquorice and root beer too. Powerful wine but certainly holds its own. This will cellar well. Drink now–2030 Richard Hamilton Centurion Old Vine Shiraz 2020 G 94 We all need a silver lining and here it is nestled in McLaren Vale. After the challenges of the 2020 vintage across the country the resilience of these 1892-planted vines shows us hope in the midst of turmoil. Drink now–2030 Battle of Bosworth Chardonnay Chardonnay 2024 G 93 Lemon oil, white peach and nectarine. Sour cream pastries, nettle and frangipani flowers. Citrus and orchard fruit aromas are enticing and acidity thrills interlaced between vanilla icing oak elements. An oatmeal creaminess on the palate makes for a wholesome rounded almond tone. Plenty of value here and a modern style of fruit- forward Chardonnay. Drink now–2026

Wirra Wirra Bell Tower Touriga Tempranillo 2023

G 95

Black cherries, lilac and ripe blueberries. Prune skin, granite and potting soil. A slinky shape to the wine with carrying acidity, dusty tannins and a rounded feel to some carob spice. It’s the way the wine manoeuvres down the palate that’s memorable and befitting of warm spiced curries like Massaman. Immensely satisfying and

tangibly delicious. Drink now–2028 Wirra Wirra Whites Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2023

G 95

A cauldron of bubbling beetroot, blackberries and bay leaf. Açaí berry and lavender stalks. Star anise and clove. The richness of velvety tannins is tied by its fine acidity. This is only just beginning to hit its straps. Tailored by a restrained oak spice, this is smartly nipped and tucked in all the right places. A plushness of blue fruit in the middle palate. The coolness of this vintage shines here. A long way for this wine to go. Drink now–2034 Wirra Wirra RSW Shiraz 2021 G 95 A basket of picked blueberries, blackberries and red cherries. A sarsaparilla core is wrapped by sweet oak tones, clove and vanilla bean. Fruit looks decidedly youthful and well kept. The swathe of fine tannins brings forth woodsy herbs like rosemary and purple basil. This maintains a richness balanced by its jaunty fresh fruit. It abounds with Blewitt Springs charm and will continue to evolve in the bottle. Drink now–2030

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Battle of Bosworth Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

Dandelion Vineyards Midnight Rainbow Petite Sirah 2021

G 93

Graphite, tar and gunmetal. Blackberries, sage leaf and rosemary. The wine grows vertically on the palate with tightly wired tannins and black cherry flesh. A hint of clove and bay leaf. The kirsch-like fruit is the star here. A class act. Drink now– 2030 Black Billy Shiraz 2021 G 93 Matured for 28 months in oak barrels, it’s obvious from first glimpse that this is from a superior vintage. Rosella, red apple skin and rhubarb. Strawberry roll-up and black cherries. Christmas cake spices without the desiccated fruit element. Silky and smooth, the wine opens like a flower in slow motion. A touch of vanilla bean and coffee grinds. This is drinking at its peak! Drink now–2026 Coriole Stonewall Grenache 2023 G 93 Hulled strawberries, baked rhubarb and cherry ripe. A hint of Turkish delight and raspberry roll-up. This isn’t in the confectionary realm but instead in the Katy Perry gelato cupcake tones. It’s a strawberry shortcake dream. The palate smartens you up fast though with interlocking firm tannins and savoury spice. Caraway seed, rye and harissa. Terra cotta on the finish. Still a youthful wine knitting together, and, I believe, made for the long term. I’d say best to keep it lying down for another three years to hit its straps. Drink now–2030 Curtis Wines Pasha Shiraz 2019 G 93 An ode to the old school winemaking days. Here, you’ll find macerated raspberries, redcurrants and Christmas cherries. A wisp of toasted coconut and dark chocolate. Its ripe vintage shows a generosity of ripe black and red fruit supported by toffee, star anise and vanilla pods. Its middle palate is laden with coffee and orange oil. It’s nostalgic and charming in its memory recall. There is plenty to love here for your money. It over-delivers in richness and is also a statement of good old tasty Shiraz

18 months maturation in one third new oak. A blanket of blackberry compote, cassis and hawthorn. Oak varnish and leather bootstraps. A wild hibiscus perfume whips through. Sappy and succulent, tannins are astute and centred down the front palate. It’s taut and terrific with youth that belies its bottling date; this is still coming together and will continue to age gracefully. Drink now–2032

Heirloom Vineyards Anevo Fortress Grenache Touriga Tempranillo 2023

G 93

Grenache leads the way with a bouquet of rose, raspberry and lilac. We then see Touriga and Tempranillo come forward in black and blueberries and garrigue of herbs. Granite, pencil lead and tar. It’s angular with pockets of round blue accents. Sappy tannins and a suck to the bright acidity. This fits together nicely and adds an approachability to the acuteness of the single varieties. A wonderful food wine with

plenty of suitors. Drink now–2026 In Praise of Shadows Grenache Grenache 2023

G 93

A blend of two sites from Blewitt Springs and Clarendon. Black cherries, bilberry and hints of juniper spice. Cassis and blueberries. Shaved bitter dark chocolate and red bean. Almost Pinot Noir-like in its vinosity, with gritty and substantial Grenache tannins pulling through. Cocoa nib and crushed black pepper. Succulent acidity and a thread of nigella and caraway seed on the finish. This is very impressive for a $30 wine; the black fruit profile from Clarendon shines. It’s a complete wine that’s sure footed. Buy as much as you can whilst you can. Drink now–2028 MMAD Vineyard Rosé 2024 G 93 A field blend of Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc. A celebration of all things MMAD. A delicate salmon belly hue in the glass. Here, you’ll find persimmon, alpine strawberries and cranberry. Pink Lady apple sorbet, pomelo segments and shaved fennel bulb. Fruit is dialled up on the palate, alive with Mariposa plums and blood orange. It’s bone dry but filled with the gusto of a summer fruit punch underpinned by lingering acidity and a fine pith of mandarin on the finish. If you are privy to the charm of a Rosé, this is the Hermès Kelly bag of them all. Drink now with a slice of Russian honey cake and toast to happiness. Drink now–2025

of its time. Drink now–2027 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz 2019

G 93

Black plums, pomegranate molasses and Cherry Ripe. Cocoa nibs, crushed cloves and sesame spice. The palate sings with sinewy tannins and a middle palate hum of boysenberry fruit. There is no lacking of oak spice with leather straps, cigar cuttings and rye bread. Its fruit is quite lively with hints of Christmas cake and seasonal holiday merriment in mind. A wine that would make many a Shiraz lover jolly. Drink now–2028

Oliver’s Taranga Brioni’s Blend Touriga Grenache Mencia 2024

G 93

A black-fruited concoction with bilberry, juniper and black pepper spice. Bing cherries, plum and olive skin. Grenache gives the wine a highlight of red fruit and the boost of acidity, it’s quite soft and supple on the plate with a chew to the fine dusty tannins. Moreish and a hell of a good time. Drink now

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