Equally, Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon evokes a keen scent of place. The fresh pure blackcurrant aromas, superb inky density, and vigorous structure are typical. Although medium-bodied, the flavours fill out the mid palate with varying levels of new oak, bringing nuanced complexity. Sub regional differences also bring further interest, particularly from a tannin structure point of view. (The cooler sites tend to be more vigorous in style.) People Power Individual viticulturalists and winemakers also play an important part in the Margaret River story. Although it is impossible to mention everyone, there are some prominent identities leading the fine wine agenda. Tim Lovett and David Winstanley, at Leeuwin Estate, are successfully building on the work of previous teams. Vanya Cullen sets a very high standard at Cullen, with her staunch biodynamic philosophies and green ambitions. Paula Holmes à Court, at Vasse Felix, has empowered Virginia Willcock to take Vasse Felix to the next level, and is also pushing forward his Idée Fixe project with the highly capable Mick Langridge. Julian Langworthy has been immensely effective in building the Deep Woods brand with his superb winemaking skills and uncanny success at wine shows. Glenn Goodall, at Xanadu, has also enjoyed astonishing success. In this forum, Will Berliner, at Cloudburst, is the classic disrupter, and is taking his own pathway of nurture and winemaking. Recently, his wines were launched through La Place de Bordeaux, highlighting the strength of his personality, purpose, and wines. In this tasting review, I was impressed by the consistency of Larry Cherubino wines, which are perfectly pitched for the fine wine market. The team at Cape Mentelle are harnessing technology and sustainability with great effect. The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon, which was not in this particular review, as it is not yet released, looks magnificent as a barrel sample. Voyager’s Estate wines have also come up a notch, highlighting leadership in vineyard management and sustainability. Although not everyone is mentioned, the blend of vignerons and ambitions in Margaret River is remarkable. The special can-do attitude and collaborative spirit give the region exceptional potential.
Margaret River
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