New Standards All the same, we are now living in a period of tremendous change, where provenance has become more complicated. It is no longer just associated with bloodlines, ownership, and place. Sustainability, regenerative farming, and environmental accountability are becoming vastly important in Australia’s fine wine category. Although there is some flexibility today, consumers seem to be aligning to the values of sustainability and circularity at a rapid rate. Nearly 20 years ago, it was predicted that low-input (at a minimum), organic, and biodynamic principles would become defining features of Australian fine wine. Now, I think the fine wine community anticipates more. The anxieties associated with climate change, inheritance, living standards, and wellness have filtered into consumer decision making. Sustainability is the number one issue right now and, consequently, consumer expectations for a green future will almost certainly frame the fine wine agenda for years to come. Margaret River has been at the forefront of environmental awareness and sustainable agricultural practices for a long time though. The local population, comprising a large proportion of alternative lifestyle and greenie types, has played an important role in evolving ways of thinking. Traditional farmers in the region were slow off the mark, but the wine industry, which typically employs young people, was, at first, more enlightened and imaginative. Margaret River’s benign growing season, often free of disease pressure, also lends itself to low-input vineyard management. Netting, to protect the crop from bird damage, however, is a necessity, especially when it is a poor year for karri and marri blossoms. Sustainability Typically, approaches to viticulture and winemaking differ, but there is an increasingly strong focus on sustainable practices across Margaret River. The use of chemicals is declining considerably, as more and more vignerons adapt their ways of managing vineyards. The Margaret River Wine Association describes this movement as ‘light touch viticulture’. For some observers this trend is not going fast enough, but, realistically, the transition towards meaningful sustainable practices is happening.
Margaret River
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