outlook. The health of the soil is the fundamental factor, because yields, quality and character of the vintage underpin regional identity. In 1865 Dr Jules Guyot wrote in his Culture of the Vine and Winemaking that ‘when a soil is naturally fertile and produces remunerative crops, it attracts, fixes and sustains, by itself, a numerous population.’ The development of fertilisers, chemicals and tractorisation during the 20th century resulted in the economical production of crops but often degraded the natural fertility of soils. Although intentions were good, the mindset was generally connected to a balance sheet. But, throughout the 2000s, a strong environmental awareness has developed. The threat of urbanisation, drought and biosecurity kickstarted a new outlook that is now influencing the way consumers perceive identity, terroir and origin. Present-day thinking builds on the efforts of previous generations and the handed-down knowledge and experience of living in the Barossa landscape. The concept of terroir has never been more relevant than today. Although extreme weather and other threats promise to create challenges in the future, the way vignerons care for their vineyards and make their wine is now becoming the most important factor when consumers choose their wines.
Knowledge of sub-regional differences will continue to develop over forthcoming decades, but the principles are sound. Although climate change promises to complicate debate about the nature of terroir, character and uniqueness of place are important features of the fine wine narrative. For instance, the varied personality of Barossa shiraz is linked to the vineyard site, vine age, clone, viticultural practices, soil types, harvesting time and individual winemaking craft and philosophy. Vintage conditions bring further variation. Cooler sites may perform best in warmer seasons whereas warmer sites perform best in cooler seasons. SUSTAINABILITY Sustainability promises to be the most exciting and challenging topic within Australia’s fine wine agenda for years to come. The movement towards a sustainable future has been a rolling stone for some years, but the years of pandemic, new artificial trade barriers, threat of climate change, regional insecurity and fears for biosecurity have all sharpened focus and activated the Australian wine community. The Barossa region is at the vanguard of change and mitigation. During the 2000s, widespread organic and biodynamic viticultural practices highlighted the region’s concerns about changing weather patterns and sustainability. While vignerons and growers of all kinds are working towards the goals of a green wine future, large producers, including Treasury Wine Estates and Pernod Ricard, are shaping the agenda, with almost every facet of viticulture, winemaking, packaging and distribution being reimagined from a sustainability perspective. Sustainability activism has ignited a collaborative wine community approach ranging from simple household routines to vineyard management, regenerative agriculture, winery design, technology, artificial Intelligence, energy use and “circular-making”. Renewables, reusables and restoration are all part of this mindset. This includes the acknowledgement and inclusion of First Nations peoples and their descendants. Ultimately, sustainability relates to natural capital, the 19th century ‘economic power of land’ concept and a 21st century agrarian
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
Barossa 2023
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