Hoffman Mickan Block Durif, Shiraz 2020
G 93
The wine is an even split between Durif and Shiraz, both from the Barossa Valley. A tiny production, 35 dozen, but it is definitely worth seeking. The wine spent three and a half years maturing in older French oak. Blood red/magenta colour here, the nose gives us notes resembling handfuls of warm earth, cranberries, mulberries, truffles, leather, cloves, and beef stock. There is also a rather appealing bone marrow character. The structure is seamless and there are fine satiny tannins sitting at the end of the impressive length. The wine is finely balanced throughout. A 10-year proposition, longer if needed. My pick of the portfolio. Drink now–2035 Irvine Wines Altitude Shiraz 2022 G 93 Fascinating to compare Shiraz from the same team and same vintage, with the only difference being the Barossa up against the Eden Valley (yes, I know it is not a competition, but it sort of is). This time, the Barossa wins the chocolates (as football commentators seem keen to say). But only by the proverbial whisker. The colour here is a very dark maroon. The wine is plush, ripe and balanced, not to mention utterly delicious. A cuddly texture with cashmere-like tannins, the nose gives us notes of chocolate, mocha, liquorice, dried herbs and bay leaves. The intensity is maintained from start to finish, with the length seriously impressive. Love it; this is surely a wine with a great future and it should continue to improve. Drink now–2040 Jacob’s Creek Our Limited Release Bunchy Shiraz 2023 G 93 In the world of weird names given to wines – and that is one seriously big category – Bunchy Shiraz has to be right up there. Of course, as ever, it is what is in the bottle that counts. The wine is a dark, vibrant purple, with notes of plums, mulberries, mocha and coffee grinds. A touch of spicy oak is still in place. The texture is supple and seductive and there is excellent length here. Abundant, but very fine tannins tie things together at the finish. Like it a lot – just don’t worry about the weird name. Drink now–2037 James Kalleske Centenarian Vine Grenache 2024 G 93 From a vineyard planted in 1925, this is a family affair, with James’s father tending to these vines over many years. Hence the name ‘Dad’s Block’. The wine sees around 10% whole bunches in the fermentation and there is an extended maceration for more than seven weeks. Maturation is in a mix of one third earthen vessels, one third new French oak and one third older French oak for nine months. The wine is bottled without fining or filtration and is under natural cork. Ruby/garnet hue, the nose opens with some spicy, stalky, briary notes, reflecting the use of some whole bunches. We have aromas of red fruits, kirsch, dried herbs, cherries and cranberries. Supple and sleek, leading to very fine powdery tannins on the finish with a line of juicy acidity, the wine is of medium length and will drink well for at least the next 6–8 years. Drink now–2033
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The Vintage Journal
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