Hickinbotham The Revivalist Merlot 2022
G 95
A Black Forest cake of dark cherries, rich chocolate icing and crumbly vanilla sponge. Edible in every sense of the word, it’s ripe with plum and prune, and new oak sings along in the background, very much befitting the plush style. Despite its pool of plump fruit sitting juicy in the mid palate, there has been effort to keep the brightness of acidity and a gentle swathe of tannins. It’s a great wine, period. A Merlot worth your time, and it might be a bit fun to blind your snobby Merlot- dissing mates too. Drink now–2032 Hugh Hamilton Black Blood Shiraz 2023 G 95 Fruit is from the alluvial-soil-based Church Vineyard and opens with dark plums and beetroot. Some bilberry and blackcurrants. The palate deepens its fruit profile with boysenberries and an innate acidity that flows from start to finish. Some clove and poppyseed; oak plays a backing track to the fruit and earth voice. Supple tannins linger. This is an elegant representation of site with presence. Drink now–2032 In Praise of Shadows Grenache 2024 G 95 The backbone of this Grenache is fruit from a couple of sites in Blewitt Springs, a touch of Clarendon and a sneaky 5% Mataro. 21% whole bunch. Matured in large format seasoned oak. Gentle swaying apple trees, white cherries and cranberries. Birch bark and whole nutmeg, the delicacy of this wine is always remarkable. Tannins are powdery and plume over the palate. Driving acidity and the wine finishes with a Chantilly cream. It’s poised and pretty as a picture. Superb value. Drink now–2030 Karrawatta Ace of Trumps Shiraz 2019 G 95 First impressions of this wine are… drum roll… woooo, it’s fresh. A very nice first impression when anyone is taking the time to do a late release bottling. Matured in new and seasoned French oak barriques for 16 months. The beauty of teenage Shiraz may be lost on some palates these days but not here. This is a spot where brambly ripe fruit meets its coffee shop spice aromas. Rhubarb, plum skin and pomegranate molasses, star anise, espresso and nutmeg. It’s creamy in its palate weight with chai milk. Then layered with brown butter, ground ginger and cinnamon on the final note. A wonderful medium-bodied drink with ardent richness and tonnes of drinkability. Drink now–2032
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The Vintage Journal
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