Thompson Estate Zero Dosage Sparkling Pinot Noir Chardonnay 20191
G 93
West Aussie sparkling looking good. A Chardonnay Pinot Noir blend from Margaret River, the wine sees no dosage. Personally, I usually find that no-dosage wines can be a little tougher than one might wish, but this seems to have got away with it. The colour is a gleaming pale lemon, and there is a gorgeous nose of peaches, stone fruits, spices, lemon curd, and a hint of croissant. Very good length here through to a dry clean finish. Best enjoyed over the next couple of years. Drink now–2027
G 93
It is early days for this very fine Margaret River Chardonnay, which surely has more improvement in it. The fermentation is with wild yeasts. The colour is a shining yet deep yellow, while the nose reveals notes of grapefruit, cashews, stone fruits, peaches, apricot kernels and just a hint of well-integrated oak. There is a seductive texture here, and the palate sees notes of crushed almonds emerge. A Chardonnay of persistence and focus, enjoy this over the next six to eight years. Drink now–2033 Victory Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 G 93 A very fine Margaret River Cabernet with a dollop of Malbec, from the superb 2023 vintage; maturation was in French oak barriques for fifteen months, around one third of them new. An inky dark magenta colour, the nose is redolent of spices, plums, leather, dry herbs and mulberries, finishing with hints of sour cherries. Well focused with a refreshing line of acidity, the wine finishes with fine if slightly chalky tannins. A slightly edgy yet appealing style which lingers well, this will provide pleasure over the next eight to ten years. Drink now–2035 Victory Point Chardonnay 2022 G 93 The single vineyard providing the fruit for this impressive Margaret River Chardonnay was planted in 2001. It has remained unirrigated for its entire life. Whole bunch pressed, the wine was settled before wild fermentation in French oak barriques and then a further nine months’ maturation on lees. 41% of the barrels were new. The team use 48% of the region’s famous Gingin clone in this wine, with the remainder a mix of various Dijon clones. It is an interesting wine in that its charms are not necessarily immediately apparent, but given time, they will reveal themselves to you. Deep yellow, the wine opens with hints of oak, well integrated. On the nose we have generous aromatics, with peaches and nectarines to the forefront. There is good intensity and the wine is still quite tight in structure. At this stage, it is still building its length and will be better when that happens. It really does need a couple of years to reach its peak and should then offer four to five more years of superb drinking. A wine with its best yet ahead of it. Drink now–2031
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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