Cullen Wines Grace Madeline Sauvignon Blanc 2025
G 95
The immediate impression for me from this wine was that it is perhaps the closest thing I have seen to the great Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs, although it comes at a fraction of the cost (we are talking well under fifty bucks, compared to possibly several thousand dollars per bottle for those rarities from the Napa – think Screaming Eagle and its ilk). This is a seriously impressive example of the style. Grown and made in accordance with biodynamic principles, the wine includes a proportion of Semillon. Both varieties come from estate plantings dating back to 1976. The team use wild fermentation in a mix of oak barriques and concrete eggs – anything to enhance texture and complexity. Fresh and bright with a creamy texture, we have notes of gooseberries, citrus, fragrant floral touches and spices, with an underlying minerality tying things together. The balance is immaculate and the length seemingly never ending. Enjoy this over the next six to ten years. Very hard to think of a straight Savvy or blend of these two grapes from Australia which tops this wine. Drink now–2035 Domaine Naturaliste Artus Chardonnay 2024 G 95 Charred pineapple, tangerine oil, and marigold blooms. Artus has all the character and then some. It could be called rustic with its flinty baked clay, but it’s the level of savoury spice that shows the deftness of oak handling and fruit balance. It leans into the wild sulphides and edgy level of gingerbread spice. In a world of mediocrity, this is spellbinding for its gumption, flair, and colour. Hats off. Drink now with XO swordfish collars. Drink now–2030 Domaine Naturaliste Sauvage Sauvignon Blanc 2024 G 95 Almost impossible not to find this wine compelling for its rambutan, lilikoi, and strawberry guava aromatics, followed by turmeric, Szechuan peppercorn, and hay bale. The large format oak curves some of the corners whilst elevating the tension between vibrant acidity and a mid- centre candlenut creaminess. There is a baked salt line which adds further dimension, and the wine finishes with linear length and a leesy, generous body and weight. A truly wonderful example of a worked Sauvignon Blanc of this style. Drink now–2035 Lenton Brae Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2022 G 95 A pretty and perfumed wine with lofty tulips and a core of raspberries. Malbec is singing here, with Cabernet structure driving it forward; there is some cedar oak that suits the overall profile quite well. Some chew to the grainy tannins and plenty of red fruit pop to keep you lifting your glass. Drink now–2032
Margaret River 2026
31
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