Lenton Brae Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2023
G 96
Wild raspberries, thorny stems and a garrigue of herbs, sumac, and sour cherry dust. Salivating in its persistence with powdery tannins. Once again, Malbec lifts this wine to greater heights. The Cabernet’s unwavering structure will ensure this lives for another 10-12 years. An impressive wine that combines an array of fruit, spice, and wild exotic earthy things. Drink now–2035 McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 A great wine. Focused, restrained and … kinda sexy. Smart is the new sexy, after all. Pomelo, mango-seed flesh, yellow grapefruit, and quartz. McHenry Hohnen Chardonnays are singular in style, and consistently have a salty, ocean-dirty-martini edge that I love – and this wine wears the house style perfectly. Grapes were hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed, and in true Margaret River fashion, full solids and indigenous yeasts were used. In the mouth, the aromas become flavours. Full of fine little nuances that only get clearer (and better) by the third glass. And the artefact never overshadows the site. Good plonk. Drink now–2031 McHenry Hohnen Rolling Stone Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2020 G 96 Cassis, raw cacao powder, cinnamon, plum skins, and tobacco leaf (the latter not a sign of development, just another layer of complexity). The harmony between thoughtful viticulture, gentle handling, and beautiful fruit is crystal clear. Winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani (Japo) is very good, and with Hazel’s Vineyard serving up its best fruit, it all shows. I urge you to buy a case and drink it over the next decade, minimum. Right now (at 5 years) it’s glorious in its youth; in 3 years it’ll be a joy to watch unravel; and at 10 years of age, once it’s settled into its own skin, you might actually weep. The palate is tense and focused. Ripe tannins say hello with grit and abundance. The finish is graceful and long. Apple seed, red-dirt road, and a little bit of love. Drink with meat, and with people you don’t work with. Drink now–2045
28
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
Powered by FlippingBook