Regional Tasting
Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Full Moon MOSH Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec 2023
G 99
Not many wineries can claim to have three flagship reds, but for Cullens, not a problem. As well as the standard, Diana Madeline, not that there is anything standard about it, we have this wine and then the Vanya. All three were produced in the wonderful 2023 vintage. Obviously, the Diana Madeline is the value play, but the three wines are all different and all spectacular. They each have so much to offer that I couldn’t split them and gave them each 99. I would never argue with anyone who went the extra point, but my concern is that when Vanya tops these, as she surely will, where do you go? The blend here is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Malbec. The grapes were harvested under a full moon on 7th March, Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest, hence the MOSH. Maturation was for fifteen months in barriques, one-third of them new. Black purple in colour, the nose weaves its way through aromas of spices, mulberries, florals, blackberries, bruised plums, leather, dried herbs, charcuterie and spices. There is a hint of toasty oak still evident, but integration is proceeding well and all the wine needs is time. Seductively textured, there is wonderful length here and the wine is immaculately balanced throughout. It finishes with the finest of silky tannins. A stunning Cabernet which will drink beautifully for the next quarter of a century. Drink 2030–2050 Cullen Wines Flower Day Vanya Cabernet 2023 G 99 Put simply, this has to be one of the finest Cabernets ever made in this country. Granted, one could argue that at this price, so it should be. Coming from the heart of the magic Margaret River region, from perhaps the best vintage they have ever enjoyed, and from one of the best producers, not only for the region but for the country, its pedigree gave it every chance. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked on a flower day and then naturally fermented on skins in 300-litre terracotta amphorae for almost a month, before transferring to barrels for a further six months’ maturation, with 50% of the barrels new. 526 bottles made. The first Vanya was made in 2012. Dark maroon. The nose has notes of spices, chocolate, mocha, coffee beans, cassis, smoked meats and liqueur cherries. There is focus, energy, and great length through to near invisible silky tannins. The finish lingers gently, as does the memory of the wine. It is so plush and generous and so superbly balanced that it is utterly compelling. It will see twenty to thirty years in the cellar as a doddle. As for the score, one feels rather lousy in not going that extra step, but no doubt Vanya will find a way to exceed even this brilliant wine. Drink 2032–2055 Facing: ‘Wine Regions of Western Australia’ from The Australian Ark by Andrew Caillard. www.australianark.com
Margaret River 2026
21
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