Western Australia’s Margaret River lies at a magnificent tension point between the vast Indian and Great Southern Oceans. The buffeting winds, rolling swell and expansive skies create a unique atmospheric energy. This eJournal documents recent tastings and events in Margaret River combined with reviews from many leading wineries.
ANDREW CAILLARD MW, SHANTEH WALE, KEN GARGETT & CYNDAL PETTY
VINTAGE JOURNAL – REGIONAL FOCUS –
MARGARET RIVER 2026
CONTENTS
Authors
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Margaret River’s Magnificent Houghton and Gingin Clones Andrew Caillard MW Cullen’s 40th International Chardonnay Tasting
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Andrew Caillard MW Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon Vertical Tasting
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Andrew Caillard MW Howard Park in Focus
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Andrew Caillard MW Map: Wine Regions of Western Australia
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Regional Tasting
Shanteh Wale, Ken Gargett and Cyndal Petty
AUTHORS
Andrew Caillard MW Andrew Caillard MW is the author of numerous books, including Penfolds: The Rewards of Patience (six editions), Imagining Coonawarra and A Travel Through Time (the history of leading Spanish winery Marques de Riscal). Andrew has also most recently written The Australian Ark , a definitive history of Australian wine, published in 2024, which has won local and international awards, including the inaugural OIV President’s Award, the André Simon Award, and individually he received the Australian Wine Communicator of the Year 2024. Andrew was also recently announced as winner of the 2025 IWSC Wine Communicator Trophy and he received the 2025 Maurice O’Shea Award for his outstanding contribution to the Australian wine industry. Ken Gargett Ken was born and bred in Brisbane, Queensland, before a fishing break on the Great Barrier Reef, and some good wine, started a serious obsession that eventually took over. Ken mostly writes on wine, champagne and spirits for various newspapers, magazines and books, but is perhaps best known for his work in The Courier Mail and the prestigious international wine magazine The World of Fine Wine .
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Cyndal Petty A hopeless romantic for wine and food, Cyndal is nearing 15 years in hospitality while still (just) under 30. A Chef-turned-Sommelier and award-winning wine professional, Cyndal recently left a Group Sommelier role where she curated seven wine lists across multiple venues and led the wine team to Gourmet Traveller Wine Bar of the Year—just months after opening. Now freelance, Cyndal is a wine consultant, event host, wine judge, and wine writer. Passionate about sharing wine’s story with the world, she brings a fresh voice and creative solutions to the industry. After studying and traveling through most of her 20s, she’s now based in WA’s southwest, proudly embracing her role as a WA coastal cowgirl. Shanteh Wale Shanteh cut her teeth at Sydney’s award-winning Quay restaurant, where she worked for over a decade and was Head Sommelier from 2018 to 2022. She was nominated for the Good Food Guide Sommelier of the Year award on three occasions and claims that her experience as a Len Evans scholar is one of the highlights of her career. Shanteh hosts her own weekly podcast, ‘Over A Glass’, with the Deep in the Weeds Network and spends her time writing for various publications, including as a member of the Halliday Wine Companion Tasting Panel, and judging at numerous wine shows across the country.
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Vasse Felix Vault Museum Cabernet Collection
MARGARET RIVER’S MAGNIFICENT HOUGHTON AND GINGIN CLONES
Western Australia’s Margaret River lies at a magnificent tension point between the vast Indian and Great Southern Oceans. The buffeting winds, rolling swell and expansive skies create a unique atmospheric energy. Meanwhile the warm poleward-flowing Leeuwin current in winter and the cool northerly Western Australian current in summer bring a dual-carriageway of spectacular marine life from rock lobster and abalone to migrating salmon and humpback whales. Sea birds of various kinds circulate, harass and bombard these bountiful feeding grounds while native forests of Marri, Karri and Jarrah and the surrounding land support a superb hotspot of biodiversity. Although European settlement altered the appearance of the land throughout the 19 th Century, the region remains largely covered by native forest, while land use has also changed markedly from predominantly logging, dairying and mixed farming to viticulture, winemaking and eco-tourism. By happenstance Margaret River’s fine wine reputation is built on the storied history and quality of 19 th Century pre-phylloxera cabernet sauvignon and early 20 th Century pre-Prohibition era chardonnay vine cuttings. Although vineyards were planted a little further to the north around Busselton and Bunbury in the 19 th Century, the modern Margaret River wine industry began in 1967, when Dr Tom Cullity of Vasse Felix planted his first block of cabernet sauvignon vines. Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate followed in quick succession using the same grapevine selection known as the Houghton Clone. This heirloom vinestock material represents a significant percentage of plantings and underpins the reputation of the best Margaret River cabernet wines. Cullen Diane Madeline, Moss Wood Cabernet and Vasse Felix Tom Cullity are the primary ‘First Growth’ collectables while Xanadu Reserve
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Cabernet, Deep Woods Reserve Cabernet, Fraser Gallop, cult wine producer Cloudburst and others have released exquisite vintages in recent times. While the original vinestock material for the Houghton clone is referenced by some observers as having arrived in Western Australia around 1830 from the Cape Colony (South Africa), this is highly unlikely. The first recorded importation of cabernet sauvignon took place in 1837 when William Macarthur of Camden Park, New South Wales brought in the variety from Barton and Guestier in Bordeaux. Charles Ferguson the owner of Houghton’s, one of Western Australia’s oldest wineries in the Swan Valley, claimed the vines first planted on
Voyager Estate sheep winter grazing
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the property in the 1860s were sourced from Leschenault and South Australia. A letter by Mr William Burges, a prominent early settler and pastoralist, published by Perth’s Inquirer and Commercial News in 1862, suggests that cabernet sauvignon (and malbec) were first brought into Perth from Sydney by a ‘Mr Chauncey’. This is probably Western Australia’s assistant surveyor Philip Lamothe Snell Chauncy, who resigned his position and moved to Victoria in 1853. While there is a gap in provenance, leading to questions about origin, the Houghton Clone is unquestionably derived from 1950s plantings at Houghton. These vines were based on cuttings taken off the presently unknown 1930s ‘Frenchman’s Block’, a vineyard of bush vines that were probably pulled out during economic recession. Between 1968 and 1970, Western Australia’s Department of Agriculture studied the performance of 21 vines, each selected for their yield, health, and fruit flavour. After evaluation at its Gingin nursery, the vines were planted out for further appraisal at Frankland River in 1973. The Houghton Clones or selections were also made available for Margaret River’s pioneering winemakers, with the help of the Department’s John Gladstones and Dorham Mann, both leading figures in the State’s emerging wine scene. The story of the Margaret River’s Gingin Clone of chardonnay follows a similar pattern. Imported as FPS1 (Foundation Plant Services 1) from UC Davis California, it is derived from 1956 plantings originally sourced from the university’s defunct 1930s Armstrong Vineyard. Described as a pre-Prohibition clone, it is believed the cuttings were originally sourced by Ernest Wente from Theodore Gier’s Pleasanton Vineyard, Livermore Valley, in 1908 and planted nearby at the Wente Estate. This material is thought to have been imported to California as budwood from Meursault in Burgundy in 1882. After propagation and selection, the clone became known in Western Australia as the Gingin Clone. It is no secret that Denis and Trish Horgan of Leeuwin Estate, through their generosity and support to other vignerons, were responsible for the Gingin Clone’s widespread planting in Margaret River. Renowned for its hen-and-chicken fruiting habit, it has found a perfect home in the region. The most famous wines derived from this clone are Leeuwin
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Estate Art Series, Cullen Kevin John, Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Pierro Chardonnay but other winemakers are producing equally compelling examples including Cape Mentelle, Cloudburst, Deep Woods Estate, Howard Park, Domaine Naturaliste, House of Cards, Nocturne, Voyager Estate, Woodlands, Xanadu and others. The pure fruit definition, ample volume, al dente textures and mineral length are a consistent theme of these beautiful Margaret River Chardonnay styles. The Houghton and Gingin Clones are a wonderful legacy of shared family ambitions while representing the very best and purest lineage of pre-phylloxera germplasm. This exceptional vinestock material also represents a much bigger vision that began during Victorian times when pioneering vignerons believed that Australia would become the France of the Southern Hemisphere. While this expression is outdated, the
Gingin Chardonnay
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underlying ambition has remained the same across several generations. While Margaret River is a relatively new wine region, its pristine environment, ancient soils, heirloom grapevines, and distinguished vineyards combined with some of the most enlightened and experienced winemakers in the world, have led to classic wines of great singularity, and character. Whenever I drink these wines, I always feel a sense of wonderment; they are so distinctive and delicious to drink while representing living Margaret River heritage.
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CULLEN’S 40TH INTERNATIONAL CHARDONNAY TASTING Cullen’s 40th International Chardonnay Tasting, conducted in blind format and based on the 2023 vintage, highlighted that Australian Chardonnay can compete and be compared with the finest cuvées from around the world. While everyone’s tastes and preferences are different, I was intrigued and delighted to observe a strong regional identity that comes with Margaret River Chardonnay. Underpinned by the ubiquitous Gingin clone, renowned for its millerandage ripening, the wines from Margaret River all possessed similar characters of grapefruit aromatics, al dente textures, attractive mid palate volume and fresh long indelible acidities. Generous in flavour and abundant in flow, the wines are compelling and delicious; often possessing a refreshing twang at the finish. Of course, they each differ in weight and style, but in my view Margaret River Chardonnay has a genuine and distinct regional imprint, that no other wine region in Australia has so far achieved. Although some of the great Australian chardonnays can be found in Melbourne’s Dress Circle, Tasmania or Adelaide Hills, many of these wines are defined by their house style, rather than site-specific origin. By this I mean that the winemaker’s signature plays a major role in the overall expression of their wines. Stripped bare and with some exceptions, would they show a distinct character of site? Would neighbouring wines have a commonality of character? Regardless, we should be proud of the superb quality of ultra-fine Australian Chardonnay and all it brings into our lives. Cullen Kevin John, Deep Woods Reserve and Leeuwin Estate Art Series, Vasse Felix Heytesbury and the lesser-known Windows Estate La Fenêtre were top Margaret River performers while Cullen’s Kevin John Flower Day and Kevin John Fruit Day Chardonnays stood out for their exaggerated but evocative style. Meanwhile, Bindi Quartz, By Farr GC
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Cote Vineyard, Giaconda, Oakridge 864 Funder & Diamond Vineyard, Savaterre, Tolpuddle and Penfolds Yattarna all showed their class as top Australian chardonnay styles, albeit showing distinct differences in weight and composition. The top imported wines were Maison Roche de Bellene’s classical Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres and Kumeu River Maté Vineyard.
1990s Vanya & Di Cullen of Cullens Wines in the lab
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CAPE MENTELLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON –
MARGARET RIVER VERTICAL TASTING
To coincide with its annual cabernet tasting in November, Chief Winemaker and Viticulturalist David Moulton and his team put on a five-decade vertical of Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon through the prism of five vintages (1983, 1993, 2003, 2013, 2023). While compact and to the point, it showed the development of style, aided by improved vineyard management and winemaking techniques. Owned by drinks behemoth Endeavour Group, the winemaking team has remained intact, resulting in continuity and clear direction. Since its acquisition from LVMH, the winery has been fine-tuned to appeal to a wider audience. For instance, it is possible to drink a Cape Mentelle 16 Hectare Chardonnay at $25 a bottle. The longstanding early drinking Cape Mentelle Trinders Cabernet Merlot releases have also traditionally been an entry point into the whole Margaret River Cabernet category (approx $35 a bottle). But flagship wine Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon (now under the Heritage label) has enjoyed a longstanding presence on the secondary wine market. With its currency guaranteed through its association with Dan Murphy’s and Langton’s it is not surprising that it is still included in this benchmark listing. That aside, Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon represents an important part of Margaret River’s history as it really did put the region on the map with the back-to-back Jimmy Watson Trophy winning 1982 & 1983 vintages. These days the winemaking team at Cape Mentelle is headed up by the highly likeable and enlightened all-rounder David Moulton, a locally trained winemaker and viticulturalist with over 20-years’ experience in the field. His natural leadership qualities are obvious. In addition, he is quick to acknowledge the contribution of his team whenever there is a chance. His senior winemaker Coralie Lewis is
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praised for her dedication and skills, while the viticultural team are referenced when talking about wine quality and purpose. Being at the far-flung edges of the EDV empire, Cape Mentelle is probably divorced from the realpolitik of its corporate owners. Seemingly, it remains more or less an independent winery which is what its long-term customers and its founders would probably want. Cape Mentelle is an historic Margaret River brand and quite rightly deserves to be recognised as one of the region’s more progressive wineries. This cabernet tasting highlights the advance in winemaking – away from the dense grippy claret of yesteryear to a more refined elegant, buoyant and sinuous style. While some of this is related to the fashionable concepts of today, winemakers have a much better understanding of tannin management. This will probably lead to wines that show better aging potential than ever before.
Margaret River Flowers, Andrew Caillard MW
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2023 Cape Mentelle Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant black cherry, hint elderberry, cassis, capsicum aromas with roasted chestnut/vanilla notes. Buoyant pure black cherry, elderberry, blackcurrant flavours, very good mid palate volume, fine-grained cedary tannins and noticeable vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes long and minerally with seductive sweet fruit notes. Very good modern style but all the elements are still in parts. Best to keep for a while. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot. Drink 2027–2045 2003 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, G 94 Margaret River – Western Australia G 96 Medium-deep crimson. Intense blackberry pastille, cedar spice, dark chocolate aromas. Supple and inky deep with inky blackberry fruits, chocolaty firm textures and underlying meaty, graphite, tobacco leaf notes. Builds chocolaty and long. Some leafy notes at the finish. An old- fashioned claret style but still showing very good definition and impact. Unmistakably cabernet in character. Drink now–2038 2013 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, G 94 Margaret River – Western Australia Medium-deep crimson. Fresh blackcurrant, espresso, dark chocolate aromas with hints of red fruits and cedarwood. Inky blackcurrant pastille, dark plum fruits, slinky firm textures and underlying roasted chestnut notes. Finishes firm and tight. Lovely volume but acidity dominates at the finish. This should keep and develop. Drink now–2042 1993 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, G 92 Margaret River – Western Australia Medium-deep crimson. Inky blackcurrant cedar aromas with creosote, roasted walnut notes. Well concentrated blackcurrant cherry stone, dark chocolate, roasted walnut/sandalwood, cigar box notes, and sinuous grainy tannins. Finishes chocolaty/soupy with lifted pronounced acidity. Has a sturdy presence, but the structure dominates the fruit. Still drinking well though. Drink now–2035 1983 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, G 90 Margaret River – Western Australia Medium-deep crimson. Black olive, cedar aromas with some dark cassis fruits. A hint of horse manure. Inky deep generous wine with black olive, creosote, black sour cherry flavours, fine grainy touch sinewy tannins, and underlying cedar notes. Firm claret finish. Bretty but still showing claret shape with attractive density and torque. Flawed yet still showing the energy, density and torque that made it stand out over 40 years ago at the Melbourne Wine Show. Jimmy Watson Trophy (1984). While not a high-scoring wine, it remains a historic memento of the David Hohnen era. Drink now or keep.
The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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Cape Mentelle. Photo Russell Ord
HOWARD PARK IN FOCUS Jeff and Amy Burch are important figures in the Western Australian wine industry and have played a massive part in the evolution and fortunes of Great Southern and Margaret River. Originally established by ex-Wynn’s Coonawarra Estate winemaker John Wade, the early Howard Park brand became a visionary force in the emerging Great Southern. But its fortunes accelerated when Jeff and Amy Burch joined the venture as partners. While Howard Park was first recognised for its landmark Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling releases during the 1990s, its ‘relocation’ to Margaret River was a masterstroke in brand building. Previously, in 1988, the Burch family had acquired land in the Margaret River with the intent of growing chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. The vineyard was managed by Jeff’s (now retired) brother David, a former principal of the Australian Ballet. By 1998, the Howard Park venture was merged into one, with Jeff and Amy Burch becoming sole owners. A new winery was established in the beautiful Wilyabrup surrounds, and the vineyard was renamed Leston, after Jeff’s father. Howard Park possesses four key vineyards: Leston and Allingham in Margaret River, and Mount Barrow and Abercrombie in the Great Southern. In addition, fruit is sourced from its Pemberton owned vineyard for its sparkling ( méthode traditionnelle ) wine brand Jeté. Meanwhile, Howard Park has been an emblematic Western Australian wine brand for almost 40 years. In 1997, it was included in Langton’s inaugural Great Wine Estates of Western Australia Auction. Subsequently, it has enjoyed a strong presence in the collectable market, especially for its top wines. Moving timelines forward, the highly regarded Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon is nowadays a 100% Margaret River wine. Although it was first based on the Abercrombie Vineyard in the Great Southern, the Leston Vineyard, with its ‘old vine- Houghton Clone’ plantings, it’s nowadays the mother vineyard, with the best blocks contributing to this ‘grand cru’ release. Also, Allingham Margaret River Chardonnay, based on plantings at Karridale, is enjoying wide praise for its classicism and bottle aging capacity.
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Howard Park has played an important role in generating interest in the cause of Western Australian wine through its investment in vineyards, wineries, and brand marketing. In addition, it has elevated the reputation of the Great Southern and Margaret River through consistently producing high-quality fine wines. In 2025, the contribution of Jeff and Amy Burch was recognised by the wine community when they were jointly awarded the Jack Mann Memorial Medal for their contribution to the Western Australian Wine Industry. While the business has ventured into various directions over the last thirty years in response to the cycles of market demand, it has always been relevant and competitive, offering some of the State’s best value fine wines. Its Mad Fish brand, for instance, is popular for its easy drinking quality and competitive pricing. While the winemaking team has changed over the years, succession has always been seamless, highlighting the ambition and focus of the Howard Park venture. Meanwhile, generational transition is taking place at Howard Park with siblings Richard and Natalie Burch now stepping up as the estate’s custodians. In Nic Bowen, they have a highly competent, curious, and imaginative winemaker, while his offsiders Mark Bailey (senior winemaker) and Stephen Kirby (Viticulturalist) represent the best in attention to detail and discipline. The current line-up under the Jeté, Howard Park, and Marchand & Burch labels look very good, with every release having a distinct character and story.
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Howard Park Wines, Leston Vineyard, Margaret River
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2023 Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia
G 97
Deep crimson. Lovely blackberry/cassis/dark plum aromas with praline herb notes. Inky deep with blackcurrant pastille, dark plum fruits, persistent chocolaty/graphite textures, underlying roasted chestnut notes. Finishes slinky firm and minerally. Very good density, definition, and flow. 14% alc. Drink 2028–2040 2024 Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia G 97 Medium-pale colour. Lifted grapefruit, apricot, pastry aromas with toasted almond/hint marzipan notes. Pure grapefruit, ripe apricot, nectarine flavours, beautiful al dente/lacy textures and underlying toasty, roasted nut notes. Builds up chalky firm and minerally with superb pure fruit notes. Exceptional. 13% alc. Drink now–2034 2023 Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River – Western Australia G 96 Deep crimson. Classical blackcurrant pastille, hint black olive aromas with mocha notes. Richly flavoured with abundant cassis dark chocolate flavours, persistent fine-grained tannins and underlying cedar notes. Lovely claret finish with a tannin plume. Elemental but building complexity and volume through age. 14% alc. Drink 2028–2036 NV Jeté Méthode Traditionelle Rosé, Pemberton – Great Southern, Western Australia G 96 Pale salmon colour. Lovely strawberry pastry, hint marzipan aromas and flavour. Generous and creamy with lovely nectarine strawberry fruit, lacy textures, attractive mid palate volume, and long crispy acidity. Al dente/ chalky finish with long minerally notes. Extra fine bubbles carry flavours
across the palate. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2030 2019 Jeté Méthode Traditionelle Grand Vintage, Pemberton – Great Southern, Western Australia
G 95
Pale colour. Marzipan, amontillado, touch crème brûlée flavours, light persistent creamy fizz, some grilled nut notes, underlying toasty, developed yellow fruits, and chalky textures. Finishes crispy and long with some herb/bitter lemon notes. 12.5% alc. Drink 2026–2033
NV Jeté Méthode Traditionelle Premier Brut, Pemberton – Great Southern, Western Australia
G 95
Pale colour. Attractive, complex, light toasty, roasted almond, marzipan, lemon curd aromas with creamy notes. Sweet lemon curd, grapefruit, marzipan flavours, some light tonic water toasty notes, attractive creamy bubbles, and fresh quartz acidity. Finishes minerally and long. Lovely complexity and persistency. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2030
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2023 Howard Park Leston Shiraz, Margaret River – Western Australia
G 95
Deep crimson. Intense ripe blackberry pastille, espresso, dark chocolate aromas with aniseed notes. Generous, blackberry pastille, black olive, panforte flavours, chalky fine tannins and underlying marzipan. Finishes cedary with aniseed notes. Lovely purity and torque. A very fine example
of Margaret River Shiraz. 14% alc. Drink now–2035 2024 Marchand & Burch Mount Barrow Pinot Noir, Great Southern – Western Australia
G 95
Medium crimson. Red cherry, hint strawberry/redcurrant aromas with Campari notes. Hints of vanilla. Generous strawberry, redcurrant, marzipan, vanilla flavours, fine chalky textures, lovely volume and mineral length. Lovely wine. 13.5% alc. Drink now–2032 2023 Howard Park Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon, Great Southern – Western Australia G 94+ Deep crimson. Parma violet, cassis aromas with hints of dark chocolate. Generous, chocolaty wine with ample violet, blackcurrant, black cherry fruits, fine cedary/al dente tannins and underlying savoury notes. Finishes chocolaty firm with graphite notes. Best to keep for a while. 13.5% alc. Drink now–2038 2025 Howard Park Arbor Novae Fiano, Jindong – Northern Margaret River, Western Australia G 94 Pale colour. Floral camomile, lemon curd, tonic water aromas and flavours. Sweet camomile, lemon curd, bitter lemon flavours, slinky textures and fresh, long juicy acidity. Bittersweet mouth-watering finish. Trophy-winning wine but early drinking style. 12.5% alc. Drink now– keep for a while 2024 Marchand & Burch Mount Barrow Chardonnay, Great Southern – Western Australia G 94 Medium-pale colour. Toasty lemon curd, touch brown lime/tonic water aromas. Sweet fruited lemon curd, lime flavours, fine slinky textures, underlying toasty notes and pure crispy acidity. Finishes bittersweet with grapefruit notes at the finish. Attractive pure-fruited wine with underlying savoury notes. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2030 2024 Howard Park Chardonnay, Margaret River – Western Australia G 93 Medium-pale colour. Intense grapefruit nectarine tonic water aromas with hint roasted nut, flinty notes. Generous and supple with ample grapefruit, nectarine fruits, fine loose-knit chalky textures and fresh long crisp acidity. A fruit-driven creamy style with very good volume and persistency. Predominantly Gingin. 13% alc. Drink now–2030
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2025 Howard Park Riesling, Great Southern – Western Australia
G 93
Pale colour. Fresh lemon curd, grapefruit, hint spice notes. Pure musky lemon curd, grapefruits, hint ginger fruits, fine lacy textures, attractive mid palate volume, and fresh long supple acidity. Some slaty/chewy/ al dente notes at the finish. Very textural. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2035 2024 Marchand & Burch Village Chardonnay, Great Southern – Western Australia G 93 Pale colour. Grapefruit cordial, lemon rind aromas with hint of flinty notes. Sweet grapefruit, lemon curd, tonic water flavours, fine slinky textures and underlying vanilla notes. Phenolic twist at the finish with long indelible acidity. High-tensile wine. Should settle down with time. 12.5% alc. Drink now–2030 Deep crimson. Black cherry, red liquorice aromas with some blackcurrant cordial notes. Very pure and fruit driven with dark cherry, red liquorice flavours, slinky firm tannins and well-integrated acidity. Finishes chalky firm with supple red fruits. Hint of pepper. 14% alc. Drink now–2034 2024 Marchand & Burch Village Pinot Noir, Great Southern – Western Australia G 93 2023 Howard Park Scotsdale Shiraz, Great Southern – Western Australia G 93 Medium crimson. Fresh red cherry, hint Americano/Campari aromas with herb notes. Sweet red cherry pastille, Americano flavours, loose- knit chalky textures, attractive volume and underlying savoury notes. 13.5% alc. Drink now–2030 2023 Howard Park ASW Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz, Margaret River – Western Australia G 92 Deep crimson. Roasted coffee, blackberry dark chocolate liquorice aromas. Inky and fruit sweet with ample roasted coffee, blackberry, aniseed flavours, loose-knit grainy textures, a core of fruit sweet notes. Finishes chocolaty and minerally. A touch muscular. American oak-
matured. 14.5% alc. Drink 2028–2035 2025 Howard Park Sauvignon Blanc, Nannup & Karridale – Western Australia
G 92
Pale colour. Nettles, grassy lemon curd aromas with underlying savoury notes. Generous and fruity with ample grassy, lemon curd, touch nettle flavours, loose-knit chalky textures, some mid palate viscosity and long fresh acidity. Finishes chalky and minerally long. 12.5% alc. Drink now– soon
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NV Petit Jeté Méthode Traditionelle Blanc de Blancs, Pemberton – Western Australia
G 92
Pale colour. Fresh apple crumble hint tonic water aromas. Creamy apple, pear, touch lemon curd flavours, lacy textures, attractive mid palate volume. Persistent fine prickly effervescence and fresh long indelible acidity. Finishes chalky and long. Delicious aperitif style. 12.5% alc. Drink now–keep for a while.
Howard Park Wines, Allingham Vineyard Margaret River, Sunrise. Photo, Frances Andrijich
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Wine Regions of Western Australia 0 50 100 km
Darwin
Jurien Bay
NORTHERN TERRITORY
QUEENSLAND
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
25
50
75 mi
0
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Brisbane
The Australian Ark Project Pty Ltd © 2023
NEW SOUTH WALES
Moora
Perth
Sydney
Adelaide
Melbourne VICTORIA
Cape Naturaliste
TASMANIA
Hobart
Geographe Bay
Yued
Dunsborough
Busselton
QUINDALUP
YALLINGUP
Balardung
Merredin VASSE
CARBUNUP RIVER
Swan District
Cape Clairault
Two Rocks
Northam
Wilyabrup
Bullsbrook
Margaret River
Caversham Ellenbrook
Swan Valley
Treeton
PERTH (Swan River Colony) Rottnest Is.
York
GRACETOWN Cowaramup Point
W a j u k
Cowaramup
Perth Hills
Fremantle
r
ROSA BROOK
Margaret River
Cape Mentelle
Rockingham
Wallcliffe
Baldivis
PREVELLY
Mandurah
WITCHCLIFFE
Pinjarra
I N D I A N O C E A N
Pinjarup
Peel
Cape Freycinet
Waroona
Margaret River
Narrogin
W i l m a n
North Point
Subregions Others
KARRIDALE
Harvey
Binningup
KUDARDUP
Wagin Cape Hamelin Knobby Head
Hardy Inlet
Bunbury
Collie
Geographe
Augusta
Cape Naturaliste
Flinders Bay
Capel
Geographe Bay
Cape Leeuwin
Katanning
Dunsborough
Donnybrook
Busselton
0
10
20
30 km
Blackwood Valley
Margaret River
10
20 mi
0
Bridgetown
Margaret River
Manjimup
Great Southern
Manjimup
Frankland River
n
Cape Leeuwin
Flinders Bay
Pemberton
Mount Barker
Porongurup
Mount Barker
S O U T H E R N O C E A N
Albany
Denmark Denmark
Albany
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Regional Tasting
Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Full Moon MOSH Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec 2023
G 99
Not many wineries can claim to have three flagship reds, but for Cullens, not a problem. As well as the standard, Diana Madeline, not that there is anything standard about it, we have this wine and then the Vanya. All three were produced in the wonderful 2023 vintage. Obviously, the Diana Madeline is the value play, but the three wines are all different and all spectacular. They each have so much to offer that I couldn’t split them and gave them each 99. I would never argue with anyone who went the extra point, but my concern is that when Vanya tops these, as she surely will, where do you go? The blend here is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Malbec. The grapes were harvested under a full moon on 7th March, Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest, hence the MOSH. Maturation was for fifteen months in barriques, one-third of them new. Black purple in colour, the nose weaves its way through aromas of spices, mulberries, florals, blackberries, bruised plums, leather, dried herbs, charcuterie and spices. There is a hint of toasty oak still evident, but integration is proceeding well and all the wine needs is time. Seductively textured, there is wonderful length here and the wine is immaculately balanced throughout. It finishes with the finest of silky tannins. A stunning Cabernet which will drink beautifully for the next quarter of a century. Drink 2030–2050 Cullen Wines Flower Day Vanya Cabernet 2023 G 99 Put simply, this has to be one of the finest Cabernets ever made in this country. Granted, one could argue that at this price, so it should be. Coming from the heart of the magic Margaret River region, from perhaps the best vintage they have ever enjoyed, and from one of the best producers, not only for the region but for the country, its pedigree gave it every chance. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, picked on a flower day and then naturally fermented on skins in 300-litre terracotta amphorae for almost a month, before transferring to barrels for a further six months’ maturation, with 50% of the barrels new. 526 bottles made. The first Vanya was made in 2012. Dark maroon. The nose has notes of spices, chocolate, mocha, coffee beans, cassis, smoked meats and liqueur cherries. There is focus, energy, and great length through to near invisible silky tannins. The finish lingers gently, as does the memory of the wine. It is so plush and generous and so superbly balanced that it is utterly compelling. It will see twenty to thirty years in the cellar as a doddle. As for the score, one feels rather lousy in not going that extra step, but no doubt Vanya will find a way to exceed even this brilliant wine. Drink 2032–2055 Facing: ‘Wine Regions of Western Australia’ from The Australian Ark by Andrew Caillard. www.australianark.com
Margaret River 2026
21
Cullen Wines Kevin John Flower Day Legacy Chardonnay 2024
G 98
This really is a ‘drink on bended knee with head bowed’ kind of wine. Harvested on a single day, a flower day in the biodynamic calendar, this is simply thrilling. Just 600 bottles made. Sure, it is not for everyday drinking, but it should be on every bucket list. The team used whole bunch carbonic maceration in beeswax-lined amphorae. Maturation was for six months in new French oak puncheons. Deep yellow in colour, this is Chardonnay with an entirely new level of intensity of flavour. We have notes of lemon curd, cashews, stone fruits, glacéd orange rinds, honeycomb, fresh croissants and citrus. A wine of immense complexity and great length, notwithstanding the enormous generosity of flavour, it is perhaps the textural aspects which are the highlight here. The wine has power, length, concentration and balance. Extraordinary length actually, and it should drink beautifully for the next fifteen to twenty-five years. How many of us wouldn’t be just a little bit nervous putting away our White Burgundies for twenty-five years? No such concerns here. Drink 2030–2048 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2022 G 98 Very hard to say that this latest release of the Art Series Chardonnay is as good as anything they have done before, as it simply sounds as though one is repeating oneself every year. Nevertheless, in the months since I first saw this wine, it seems to have done the near impossible and stepped up to an even higher standard. This is an iconic Chardonnay and justifiably recognised as such around the world. What is not quite so apparent is why on earth people pay many times the price for White Burgundies which are often nowhere near this quality when this is available. That is a question above my pay grade. Lemon-green in colour, there is a most evocative nose, beautifully fragrant. The balance is impeccable throughout. Focused and lingering, this is a wine of freshness and elegance, yet extensive complexity is already evident. The nose gives us notes of white jasmine, oatmeal, cashews, ginger, peaches, mandarin, citrus and lemon curd. There is incredible length here and wonderful generosity. Simply an exquisite wine. Track record suggests that this wine will easily enjoy twenty to thirty years in a good cellar. Drink 2028–2040
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
Flametree SRS Chardonnay 2024
G 97
Blossoming wattle, silver fern and blush nectarine. Hot tin, beeswax and grated nutmeg. There is a mosaic of spring flowers and shrubbery, all whilst being held by almond flour and oatmeal aromas. Acidity is elegant beyond measure, no squeaks or shrill points, just an effortless flow of refreshing citrus. Oak supports the buoyant fruit by cradling it, supportive yet cuddly and soft. So is Cliff Royale’s mastery in the balancing act of texture, line and poise. Some lemongrass and pine nut creaminess on the finish. This business here is all in the detail, the right touch points of building power and maintaining the energy line. A glamour in all senses of the word, this will start your heart a-flutter. Once again, it’s a steal for the price. Drink now or will cellar for another six to eight years. Save this wine for when you get that winning crayfish catch. Drink now–2033 Howard Park Abercrombie Cabernet 2023 G 97 The 2023 vintage sees the 34th release of Howard Park’s flagship Cabernet, named after Jeff Burch’s great grandfather, Walter Abercrombie. To be honest, I’m not sure they’ve made a better one in all that time. This wine sits comfortably with the very best Cabernets from Margaret River. A wine of balance, exceptional length, impressive structure and deceptive power, this will be drinking superbly for many years to come. An opaque magenta hue with a purple rim, the use of quality oak and its first-class integration makes an immediate impression. The wine exhibits all the power and intensity of the Leston Cabernet, but with extra refinement. On the nose, we have notes of plums and chocolate with tobacco leaves, mulberries, graphite, black cherries, smoked meats and dried herbs. Elegance meets power. This is beautifully balanced and well-focused, with the intensity maintained on the very long finish through to the silkiest of tannins. But strip away any artifice here, and it is the gorgeous fruit which carries the day. Enjoy this over the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2028–2045
Margaret River 2026
23
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 97
Leeuwin’s Art Series Cabernet confirmed its position among Margaret River’s very best many vintages ago; this superb release merely reinforces that view. When first looked at some months ago, we debated whether this vs. the subsequent 2023 vintage would prove the superior year. It is a no- lose proposition, as both are superb, but I suspect that in the intervening months, what we have seen from 2023 suggests that it will take the chocolates, as they say in the classics. But fear not, this is only a whisker behind, and indeed, I think that this wine looks even better now than it did then. Stunning stuff. Opaque magenta in colour, the nose meanders through notes of dark chocolate, mocha, coffee beans, tobacco leaves, spices, cassis, tar, graphite and a touch of axle grease in the best possible way. Still very young, there is a fine line of juicy acidity running the length. The wine has laser focus and is very, very long. Such great potential. Enjoy this for at least the next fifteen to twenty years. Drink 2028–2039
Byron & Harold Gravity Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
G 96
The final wine is a barrel selection, with maturation over an extended period in French barriques, around one quarter new. The wine reflects just how special the 2023 vintage in this region is. The colour is a gleaming maroon/magenta. There is already evidence of complexity building, and we have alluring aromas of spices, cassis, tobacco leaves, kirsch, charcuterie, blackberries, cigar boxes, plums and aniseed. This is really exciting stuff. There is excellent balance, immaculate oak integration and immense length. The wine finishes with lingering, silky tannins and a fine line of acidity running the journey. Can be cellared to advantage for the next 15 to 20 years. Drink now–2045
Cape Mentelle Heritage Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
G 96
Medium-deep crimson. Fragrant black cherry, hint elderberry, cassis, capsicum aromas with roasted chestnut/vanilla notes. Buoyant pure black cherry, elderberry, blackcurrant flavours, very good mid palate volume, fine-grained cedary tannins and noticeable vanilla, marzipan notes. Finishes long and minerally with seductive sweet fruit notes. Very good modern style but all the elements are still in parts. Best to keep for a while. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Merlot. Drink 2027–2045
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
Cullen Wines Legacy Flower Day Sauvignon Blanc 2021
G 96
Just when you come out with a mike-drop pronouncement, along comes the very next wine to make you look like an idiot. There may just be a better Savvy or Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend than the Grace Madeline made in Australia, and it would be this wine. Very much in the worked, complex style, the wine spent two days on skins in a red fermenter. From low-yielding, old vines, the wine spent time maturing in oak, 50% of which was new. A deep yellow colour, there would be very few Sauvignon Blancs of this age available anywhere in Australia, but it does show that the grape does have the potential to age when done well. The nose gives hints of spices and herbs with citrus, melon, pears and bright minerality. A fascinating style with near perfect balance, the wine has good length and underlying concentration throughout, through to a crisp finish. It still has at least six to eight years of pleasure ahead of it. Drink now–2032 Domaine Naturaliste Morus Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 96 An intoxicating wine with cassis, kirsch, and shiso mint wafting in the breeze. A blueberry bush and some coils of potting soil and pebbly river floor. Just hitting its straps, with decades ahead of it. Tannins persist in finely woven fabric; it’s gilded in pedigree and fruit quality. A stunning wine. Drink now–2038 Domaine Naturaliste Purus Chardonnay 2024 G 96 Winter melon, pear core and white peach. This is stony and full of limestone water and crystalline mineral energy. Almost like drinking river water off a stone. But lean and mean is not the game here; instead the palate is met with creamy almond meal, sliced ripe nectarines, and a haze of lacey phenolics. There is a core of lanolin, some mouth-watering acidity and a long finish of white pepper. A joyous vintage of Purus. Drink now with raw scallop eaten from the half shell. Drink now–2035
Margaret River 2026
25
Flametree SRS Cabernet Sauvignon 2023
G 96
Like a well earned bruise, this is all the hues of blue, rouge and black tones, but unlike a sore point, this wine is soul-restoring. Ribena, kirsch and Davidson plums are met with tapenade, wild thyme and volcanic ash. The palate shows it can still greet you with the kiss of raspberry and cranberry whilst showing you too its savoury, granitic side. Some black pepper and poppy seed bitterness; the wine is medium-bodied, with tannins that are supple and feel more skins than oak. The palate leaves you with the cocoa nib and raw dustings of cocoa. This is perky and astute now and will reward with long-term cellaring. This is one of my go-to long-haul buys. No S.R.S. has ever been disappointing with five to eight or so years in the cellar. Once again, it’s some of the best Margaret River wine you can buy for the price. This will continue to get better as well. Ideal with crispy remnants left on the rib eye bone, the best bit in
my opinion. Drink now–2033 Flowstone Queen of the Earth Sauvignon Blanc 2023
G 96
Sweet custard apple, white pineapple and meadow flowers – this may well be WA’s best Savvy B. Few bells, no whistles. You can see both the strategic winemaking of someone who truly appreciates the grape and the inherent varietal character of the grape. Layers of complexity that speak to romantics, critics, and punters alike. Wet stone, pomelo, sage… it tastes like freedom and the smashing of misconceptions. Texture, flint, goodness. It’s complete. It makes me smile. Other SBs should be taking notes. Drink now–2035 Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay 2024 G 96 The fruit for the team’s flagship Chardonnay comes from their best blocks on the south-facing slopes of the Allingham vineyard in the Karridale sub-region of Margaret River, usually a little cooler than much of the district. Maturation is in French oak. Howard Park has always been a leading winery in Margaret River, but some of what we are seeing of late suggests that they are now competing favourably with the absolute best in the region. Deep lemon, this is refined and focused. There are notes of lemon curd, nectarine, lemongrass, spices, jasmine and white peaches. The wine has deceptive length, serious persistence and very good underlying intensity. Flavour in spades, but always elegant, the wine is finely balanced and beautifully crafted. It offers a seductive texture and the oak integration is exemplary. A ten-year proposition and an absolutely cracking Margaret River Chardonnay. Drink 2028–2036
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
Howard Park Leston Cabernet 2023
G 96
From the Leston Vineyard in Wilyabrup in the heart of Margaret River, often considered their most exciting sub-region of all, the vines were planted in 1996. This release is from the sensational 2023 vintage. Maturation was in French oak for a year and a half, one-quarter of it new. Tasted on a couple of occasions of late, it has been consistently impressive. Purple maroon in colour, there are tight oak notes evident, but integration is proceeding well. The nose gives us earthy aromas along with black cherries, tobacco leaves, plums, cold tea, dark chocolate, cloves and leather. An intense style leading to firm tannins, there is underlying power throughout. Well balanced, with a seductive texture, the wine has serious length. This is still very youthful and there is much promise. To be enjoyed over the next twelve to fifteen years. Drink 2027–2040 Howard Park Leston Shiraz 2023 G 96 With wines like this, one wonders why Margaret River Shiraz seems to lurk in the shadows, always taking second place to Cabernet. Given the quality of Cabernet from the region, I guess it is not that hard to fathom, but this is a stunning wine deserving of love and affection from anyone who enjoys top-notch red wine. It has already picked up a number of trophies, deservedly so, and comes from the spectacular 2023 vintage. It hails from Blocks 4 and 17 in the Leston Vineyard, which provides their best Shiraz fruit. The wine enjoys 10% whole bunch fermentation, and 30% of the oak used for maturation was new. An inky maroon/purple colour, the nose reveals notes of plums, chocolate, cassis, black fruits and smoked meats. There is exceptional balance here, with freshness, energy and focus. A medium weight style with a seductive texture and amazing length, it is purple fruits to the fore here. A cracking Shiraz which will provide pleasure for at least the next two decades. Drink now–2042 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Shiraz 2023 G 96 When I first saw this wine, I thought it was one of the very best of this line made by the team at Leeuwin. If anything, that view is now reinforced. And trust me, at this price, it is one of the better value Shiraz from anywhere in Australia, not just Margaret River. The stunning 2023 vintage just keeps giving. An inky maroon hue, there is a dark crimson rim. The nose is full of notes of cassis, choc/cherry, spices, bay leaves, warm earth, liquorice, charcuterie and graphite. Utterly gorgeous. Fine silky tannins complete this medium weight style, which offers decent length, and which should build further over the coming decade. A very fine Margaret River Shiraz for enjoying over the next 10 to 15 years. Drink 2027–2038
Margaret River 2026
27
Lenton Brae Wilyabrup Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2023
G 96
Wild raspberries, thorny stems and a garrigue of herbs, sumac, and sour cherry dust. Salivating in its persistence with powdery tannins. Once again, Malbec lifts this wine to greater heights. The Cabernet’s unwavering structure will ensure this lives for another 10-12 years. An impressive wine that combines an array of fruit, spice, and wild exotic earthy things. Drink now–2035 McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Brook Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 A great wine. Focused, restrained and … kinda sexy. Smart is the new sexy, after all. Pomelo, mango-seed flesh, yellow grapefruit, and quartz. McHenry Hohnen Chardonnays are singular in style, and consistently have a salty, ocean-dirty-martini edge that I love – and this wine wears the house style perfectly. Grapes were hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed, and in true Margaret River fashion, full solids and indigenous yeasts were used. In the mouth, the aromas become flavours. Full of fine little nuances that only get clearer (and better) by the third glass. And the artefact never overshadows the site. Good plonk. Drink now–2031 McHenry Hohnen Rolling Stone Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2020 G 96 Cassis, raw cacao powder, cinnamon, plum skins, and tobacco leaf (the latter not a sign of development, just another layer of complexity). The harmony between thoughtful viticulture, gentle handling, and beautiful fruit is crystal clear. Winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani (Japo) is very good, and with Hazel’s Vineyard serving up its best fruit, it all shows. I urge you to buy a case and drink it over the next decade, minimum. Right now (at 5 years) it’s glorious in its youth; in 3 years it’ll be a joy to watch unravel; and at 10 years of age, once it’s settled into its own skin, you might actually weep. The palate is tense and focused. Ripe tannins say hello with grit and abundance. The finish is graceful and long. Apple seed, red-dirt road, and a little bit of love. Drink with meat, and with people you don’t work with. Drink now–2045
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The Vintage Journal – Regional Focus
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