Clare Valley old vines dating back to the 1800s now share land and retail shelf space with a host of beginners and exciting white and red grape varieties. And, as our 2025 Clare Valley regional tasting shows, the combination works particularly well.
SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINE GUIDE 2026
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
VINTAGE JOURNAL
INTRODUCTION
ANGUS HUGHSON When I first entered the wine trade, over 20 years ago, South Australia was widely described as ’The Wine State’. While other regions also had significant history and a library of fine wines, South Australia was this country’s undisputed centre of wine. The Barossa and Eden valleys were the pinnacles thanks to their sheer volume of quality wine, but McLaren Vale, Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills and others could, on their day, hit similar heights. The landscape has certainly changed over the last three decades. New South Wales has grown far past its Hunter Valley origins, Western Australia and Tasmania have asserted their fine wine credentials, and Victoria has blossomed across numerous regions. This has been an exciting time for Australian wine in general as it has grown out of adolescence into a more mature industry with greater self-confidence, technical skill, and genuine aspirations to match the greatest wines from around the world. While there has been a movement across all states and regions, increasingly the wines from South Australia have been forgotten or undervalued in a rush to cover the evolution in other parts of the country or new-wave styles. Yet South Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history which has also enjoyed its own period of evolution, and will, without doubt, continue to deserve a significant focus. The South Australian Wine Guide 2026 has been launched to rebalance the ledger, and provide a definitive guide that throws a light on all of South Australia’s wine regions, with a singular focus on the unique wines from what is still ‘The Wine State’. A number of regions are regularly overlooked by sections of wine media or do not receive the recognition due to them for their contribution to the national wine story – a trend that seems to be getting worse over time. This guide will proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal to identify the leading local wines and highlight unique regional stories often hidden from view. A key intention for the South Australian Wine Guide 2026 is to go beyond tasting notes and scores and tell the deeper stories of the regions and their recent vintages. Tasting wine is much more profound than simply enjoying an alcoholic beverage. It is tasting the land, its people, and history expressed through aromas, flavours, and textures. From our perspective, providing a regional context is as important as any
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Introduction
i
score and a vital component of this guide. Each region opens with an introduction to the area and wines tasted, including standout vintages and varieties to keep an eye out for. Keen Riesling fans will be particularly interested in the Eden Valley and Clare Valley reports of the 2025 Riesling vintage by Tony Love and Jeni Port, respectively. Critic choice is clearly important in guiding consumers. The world of wine has never been more complex, nor have consumer tastes. So, to reflect this diversity, this guide includes reviews from 10 critics of different ages and backgrounds. On the one hand, we have highly experienced tasters such as Andrew Caillard MW, Tony Love, Ken Gargett, and Jeni Port, whose opinions comfortably sit alongside those of rising stars Shanteh Wale, Cyndal Petty, and Lisa Cardelli. We believe a range of palates with a vast array of backgrounds and experiences is essential to provide a compelling and all-encompassing guide that will resonate with all consumers, from novices starting out on their journey to collectors with vast cellars. Our overriding view is that there is a place and a consumer for every wine and so we taste with an open mind across a broad range of styles independent of any personal preference or bias. The South Australian Wine Guide 202 6 is our second foray into building greater recognition for the wines from all of South Australia. This is, we hope, just the start, and we can build the guide into a definitive resource and vinous bible for anyone keen to get a better handle on the wines of this key centrepiece of the Australian wine industry.
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Introduction
iii
BEST OF THE BEST
Alkina Striato, Shiraz 2023
Barossa
Angove Brightlands, Shiraz 2021
McLaren Vale Coonawarra
Balnaves, The Tally Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 Barton Rise & Barton View, Reserve Old Vine, Shiraz 2018
Barossa
Bekkers, Syrah 2023
McLaren Vale Adelaide Hills Langhorne Creek
BK Wines, Remy, Pinot Noir 2022 Bremerton, Old Adam, Shiraz 2022
Burge Family Winemakers, Draycott Reserve, Shiraz 2022 Charles Melton, Nine Popes, Red Blend 2022 Château Tanunda, 100 Year Old Vines, Shiraz 2022 Château Tanunda, 150 Year Old Vines, Shiraz 2022 Eisenstone, X11 Hoffmann Dallwitz Vineyard, Shiraz 2022
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Elderton, Command, Shiraz 2022 First Drop, The Cream, Shiraz 2021
Henschke, Cyril Henschke, Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 Henschke, Hill of Grace, Shiraz 2021 Henschke, Hill of Roses, Shiraz 2021 Henschke, Mount Edelstone, Shiraz 2021 Hentley Farm, Clos Otto, Shiraz 2022 Hentley Farm, The Old Legend, Grenache 2023, Hickinbotham, The Peake, Cabernet Shiraz 2022 Jacob’s Creek, Our Limited Release Survivor Vine, Shiraz 2021
McLaren Vale
Barossa
Jim Barry Wines, The Armagh, Shiraz 2022 John Duval Wines, Eligo, Shiraz 2021 John Duval Wines, Integro, Cabernet Shiraz 2016 Kaesler Wines, Old Bastard, Shiraz 2022 Kilikanoon Wines, Walton 1946, Grenache 2021 Lake Breeze, Arthur’s Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot 2022 Langmeil Winery, The Freedom 1843, Shiraz 2022
Clare Valley
Barossa Barossa Barossa
Clare Valley
Langhorne Creek
Barossa Barossa Barossa
Levrier Wines by Jo Irvine, Grand Levrier, Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Mirus Vineyards, Block 5 Sand Hill, Shiraz 2023
iv
The Vintage Journal
Mr Riggs, The Chap, Shiraz Cabernet 2021 Orlando, Centenary Hill, Shiraz 2018
McLaren Vale
Barossa
Parker Estate, 95 Block, Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot 2021
Coonawarra
Paulmara Estates, Aristotle, Shiraz 2021 Penfolds, Bin 95 Grange, Shiraz Blend 2021
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Penfolds, RWT Bin 798, Shiraz 2023 Penfolds, St Henri, Shiraz 2022
Peter Lehmann Wines, Stonewell, Shiraz 2018 Peter Lehmann Wines, Stonewell, Shiraz 2019 Rieslingfreak, No. 10 Zenit, Riesling 2025
Rieslingfreak, No.4, Riesling 2025 Riposte, The, Pinot Noir 2025 Schild Estate, Moorooroo, Shiraz 2022
Adelaide Hills
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Seppeltsfield, 100-Year-Old Para, Vintage Tawny 1925
Sons of Eden, Remus Old Vine, Shiraz 2022 Soul Growers, Belle Ame, Shiraz 2021 Soul Growers, Slow Grown, Shiraz 2023
Tarrawatta Wines, Ambervale, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
Taylors, The Pioneer, Shiraz 2019
Clare Valley
Terre à Terre, Crayeres Vineyard Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Cabernet Franc 2021 Terre à Terre, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc 2023 Thistledown, Sands of Time, Grenache 2024 Torbreck Vintners, Hillside Vineyard, Grenache 2023 Torbreck Vintners, RunRig, Shiraz Viognier 2022 Two Hands, Holy Grail Single Vineyard, Shiraz 2022 Two Hands, Yacca Block Single Vineyard, Shiraz 2022
Wrattonbully Wrattonbully McLaren Vale
Barossa Barossa Barossa Barossa
Weaver, Riesling 2025
Adelaide Hills Clare Valley McLaren Vale McLaren Vale
Wines by KT, Howarth Vineyard, Shiraz Cabernet 2022 Yangarra, Hickinbotham Clarendon, Grenache 2023
Yangarra, High Sands, Grenache 2023
Yelland & Papps, Limited Cuvée, Grenache 2024
Barossa
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Best Of The Best
v
x
The Vintage Journal
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Best Of The Best
xi
Jim Barry, Florita Vineyard, Clare Valley, 2022
CLARE VALLEY
CLARE VALLEY
JENI PORT
As Australia’s most single-minded producers of Riesling, John and Belinda Hughes at RieslingFreak in the Clare Valley are allowing themselves a moment to reflect. Do they dare to dream that, after years in the wilderness, Riesling is back? “Riesling seems to be in a nice spot at the moment,” John Hughes says. “We feel the trend is only just starting.” Hughes has enjoyed consistent sales growth over the last few years and he notes many Clare Riesling producers feel the same. He speaks of a style that has found an almost “unanimous voice.” His Clare Valley neighbour Jarrad Steel, winemaker at Pauletts, feels that the power and purity of Clare Valley Riesling, in particular, is resonating with drinkers. “Purity, expression of lime fruit and concentration is what makes Clare Riesling so good.” Riesling put in another star performance in our annual Clare Valley tasting with the 2025 vintage showcasing the grape’s ability to produce some stunning wines in even the most challenging of vintages. “The 2025 vintage was a test,” says Jeffrey Grosset. A combination of the driest year (2024) ever recorded in South Australia led into frost, and then heat and with little water to spare and elevated temperatures, the 2025 vintage was one of the earliest ever experienced and crops were small. Winemakers talk of intensity of flavour and “electric” acidity in the ’25 Rieslings. It’s an apt description. While there is little competition to the predominant role of Riesling in the Valley, there is one white grape that is exciting quite a few makers: fiano. The southern Italian variety has been described as a Goldilocks kind of wine – not too full, not too dry, not too sweet, not too fruity, not too acidic. “I think the expression we make here walks a really lovely line balancing acidity and generosity,” says Steele. Shiraz remains a stalwart of the Clare Valley, but as Australian Shiraz across the country faces falling sales and consumer interest, Clare winemakers are not immune. It comes after a strong run of vintages, and as our regional tasting highlighted,
178
The Vintage Journal
the grape continues to perform well. However, with some of the focus off Shiraz, especially with younger drinkers, there is a void to be filled. And that’s where other red grape varieties are stepping up, led by Grenache. Back in the 1970s, Grenache was widely employed in Clare Valley fortifieds. By the 1980s, some of the region’s oldest vines were being removed in the South Australian government-funded Vine Pull Scheme, initiated to help counter a grape oversupply. Grenache was long relegated to blends alongside Shiraz and Mataro, but now you can expect to see more stand-alone wines. The 100% Grenache wines tasted this year were an exciting bunch, medium bodied and elegant. One of the grape’s biggest supporters is Kilikanoon, which takes around 35% of all grenache grown in the region and produces four straight Grenache wines, three blends, and the occasional rosé. The maker sources grenache from some of the first bush vine grenache plantings in the region back in 1946 by John Walton, but its first straight varietal release under the Kilikanoon label “Prodigal” was by founder Kevin Mitchell, in 1997. “Kevin saw the potential of the varietal early, with a more elegant and delicate style than his friends’ wines in the Barossa,” Travis Fuller, Kilikanoon managing director, says. One of the Clare Valley’s quiet red wine star attractions has to be Cabernet Malbec. Wendouree and Leasingham, under the late, great Mick Knappstein and his famous Bin 56 wines, laid the groundwork decades ago, and today a younger generation continues to carry the torch. Cabernet Malbec showcases the strength of the region’s quality Cabernet with the beauty of its Malbec. “We want the unmistakable dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon to come across in the most gentle way with varietal highlights of crushed herbs and earthy undercurrents of the Australian bush,” explains Knappstein senior winemaker Michael Kane. And Leasingham Bin 56 lives on at Knappstein as the original vines are now the fruit source for its own Cab Malbec blend. “We are proud to be the custodians of these historical old vineyards,” says Kane, “and will continue to produce this wine in a style that we think pays tribute to the legendary Clare Valley icon.” Part of the northern Mount Lofty Ranges, the Clare Valley basically runs south- north, and the major towns of the Valley – Leasingham, Watervale, Penwortham, Sevenhill and Clare – lie along the Main North Road. Outside of this area, to the west lies the Skillogalee Valley where altitudes can rise to 450–500 metres. Soils are quite variable, from red and yellow podzolic through to red-brown earths with subsoils of limestone and slatey shaley rock.
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
179
Unofficially, winemakers speak of these sub-regional differences. Increasingly, you see the names of these areas appearing on wine labels led by Watervale and Polish Hill River. Producers fail to agree on their boundaries and, hence, they are not officially registered, but ask makers and they certainly recognise individual sub- regional qualities. “I’ve always been drawn to the sub-region of Watervale for its fruit weight and intensity for riesling, and the finer structural detail for reds,” says Kerri Thompson, who makes wines under her own brand, Wines by KT, as well as Skillogalee. “I also lease a vineyard in the Armagh area for shiraz and cabernet. The more northern sub- region of Armagh is synonymous with concentrated reds.”
180
The Vintage Journal
The Skilly Valley is high and rocky and dry grown vines have to work hard, producing “focussed” Rieslings and “elegantly structured” reds. Water, as always, is a primary consideration in the Clare Valley, a region that lies just south of the so-called Goyder’s Line, a line across South Australia which marks the limit of reliable rainfall for agriculture. Long-term secure water is now considered a number one priority for the region. The creep of urban development through Roseworthy and Two Wells is seeing water flow prioritised for housing, leaving agriculture to go it alone. Wine producers have lobbied government for a long-term recycled water supply. In the meantime, many producers have turned to alternative or next generation grape varieties, namely those from Italy, Spain and Portugal, that maintain their acidity and lap up hot, dry conditions. Grapes such as fiano, montepulciano, sangiovese, tempranillo and more are going into the ground, and are not only well- suited to their new environment but thriving. It wasn’t always so easy. When Marnie Roberts at Matriarch & Rogue began her brand in 2014, she started with tempranillo and sangiovese. “Honestly, they took a few years to kick off, but these two are my biggest selling reds now.” Another big believer in alternatives is Jamie Pike at Pikes, who makes three Sangioveses. “It’s our most widely planted red grape variety, which is an indication of how seriously we are backing it.” Clare Valley old vines dating back to the 1800s now share land and retail shelf space with a host of beginners and exciting white and red grape varieties. And, as our 2025 Clare Valley regional tasting shows, the combination works particularly well..
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
181
Clare Valley Aerodrome To Flinders Ranges & Outback R.M. Williams Way
Barinia
Stanley Flat
racecourse
White Hut
B82
Jim Barry Wines
To Burra
Gleeson Wetlands
Clare
Ragu & Co Antidote Kitchen Knappstein Wines Seed Clare Valley
Kilometres
Brooks Lookout
•
Indii of Clare
Armagh
0
1
2
3
4
Bentley's Hotel
Old Police Station Museum
To Blyth
Mr. Mick Wines
Neagles Rock Lookout
Ampol Roadhouse
Tim Adams Wines Clare Valley Distillery Clare Showgrounds
To Burra
Clare Valley Wine, Food & Tourism Centre
Quarry Hill Lookout
Jaeschkes Hill River Clare Estate
Shut the Gate Wines & Mr Nobody Cellar Door
Sussex Squire Wines
St Aloysius Church Sevenhill Cellars
Polish Hill River Church Museum Pikes Wines & Pikes Beer Co.
The Wilson Vineyard
Slate Restaurant
Sevenhill Hotel Sevenhill
Play Space Richardson Park
Eldredge Vineyards
Mt Rufus
Wykari of Clare
Good Catholic Girl
& Restaurant Sawmill Gin
B82
Paulett Wines
Blue Gum Lookout
& Bush Devine Restaurant
& Restaurant Skillogalee Wines
Jeanneret Wines & Clare Valley Brewing Co.
Reillys Wines
Mintaro
Mitchell Wines
Spring Gully Conservation Park
Magpie & Stump Hotel
Penna Lane Wines
The UPPside Restaurant, Wine Bar & Farm Shop St Marks Church John Horrocks Cottage
Mintaro Maze
Matriarch & Rogue Wines
Kilikanoon Wines
Penwortham
Lookout Scenic Views Cellar Doors
Mt Horrocks
Mt Oakden
Martindale Hall
Distillery Dining
Tim McNeil Wines
Point of Interest
Watervale
N
Crabtree Watervale Wines
A
Watervale Hotel Watervale General Store
Riesling Trail Walking & Cycling Rattler Trail Walking and Cycling
B82
clos Clare
Leasingham
Koerner Wine & Gullyview Estate
Claymore Wines
Lavender Federation Trail Walking
O'Leary Walker Wines
Clare Valley Wine & Wilderness Trail Walking Comprehensive trail maps are available from the Clare Valley Wine, Food & Tourism Centre
Taylors Wines
M
Terroir Auburn The Rising Sun Hotel Ulster Park Wines Three Little Birds Gin
Grosset Wines Mount Horrocks Wines
Wines by KT Velvet & Willow Wines
ROAD SURFACE
Auburn
Sealed Unsealed
B84
To Balaklava
B84
Koonowla Wines
To Adelaide, Barossa & Rhynie
To Saddleworth
182
Produced by Clare Valley Wine & Grape Association - © Mar 2024
The Vintage Journal
The Reviews
Jim Barry Wines The Armagh Shiraz 2022
G 97
Planted in 1968, The Armagh vineyard is one of Australia’s great repositories of world class Shiraz. It provides an almost effortless consistency from year to year. The ’22 vintage offers less of a Shiraz assault, and more of a charm offensive. Moves from aromatic, floral-infused, plum, blueberry and dark berried scents with hints of Dutch liquorice and menthol to a palate that enters into a whole new world of intensity. The gently savoury meets the ripe and concentrated, with added layers of smoked meat, earth, leather, toasty oak and cocoa powder bringing an extra dimension. Balance is neatly struck; so, too, the sleek, firm tannins that carry the wine long. Give it the time it deserves. Drink now–2046 Kilikanoon Walton 1946 Grenache 2021 G 97 A top combo of old vines and an exceptional vintage produces a real beauty of a Grenache, ethereal and lifted. Alluring in fragrance with rose petal, iris, red berries, crushed herbs and hints of peppermint and musk confection. The palate’s the thing, where everything melds seamlessly, aromatically fine and elevated, but also deep in concentration. Elegantly dressed in a layer of fine tannin, it’s complete and complex now, which can only mean it will age gracefully. A brilliant wine. Drink now–2040 Taylors The Pioneer Shiraz 2019 G 97 Warm to hot conditions in the lead-up to vintage saw one of the earliest harvests in years. Looking youthful in deep crimson-purple hues, it releases seductive aromas, lifted and aromatic, in violet, plum, black cherry, cassis with hints of raspberry and vanillin spice. Super elegant with nary an oak or tannin note out of place; indeed, it is seamless. Maturation in French oak (50% new) for close to 24 months delivers fine, focused tannins on a richly woven palate of dark fruits and spice with an enduring floral note that runs long. And it’s still remarkably fresh and youthful, just as it started out. Six years young and it’s got a lot more in reserve. Drink now–2042
Wines by KT Howarth Vineyard Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 97
A wine not to be rushed. The building blocks for a wine of serious complexity have been laid but it would be a mistake to broach too early. Deep, purple-crimson hues. It’s a full-on dark beauty replete in blackberries, cassis, blood plum, dark earth, deep spice and vanillin oak that completely fills the mouth, saturates it in flavour with an essence-like concentration. The Howarth Vineyard hails from Armagh and this is very much in the classic Armagh style – rich and ripe and super impressive. A keeper. Drink now–2040
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
183
Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2025
G 96
The flagship Grosset Riesling shrugs off what was a challenging warm vintage and excels in delivering another pearler of a wine. Florals and signature spice shine with spark and energy from first sniff in lime blossom, honeysuckle, fresh cut green apple, ginger notes and wet stone. Runs crisp and dry into a concentrated middle palate juicy and energised in a mineral brightness, delivering immediate drinkability. It’s open and engaging for one so young. There is a strong temptation to jump right in and enjoy now. But we know that patience will also be rewarded. Drink now–2042 Jim Barry Wines The Florita Riesling 2025 G 96 A real beauty, The Florita offers the heady scent of the Clare Valley in springtime: citrus blossom, white flowers, just-squeezed limes and cut apple. Impressive intensity from the first sip with a deeply concentrated essence of lime, citrus, apple, grapefruit pith and lingering background herbs. The power and aromatic beauty of Florita fruit is on full show, delivered on linear, fine-edged acidity. Mouth- wateringly dry. Drink now–2038 Kilikanoon Prodigal Grenache 2023 G 96 Hails from the Watervale sub-region noted for its superb Riesling and, increasingly, quality red grapes. This takes Grenache into serious territory, into a world of deep, concentrated Grenache flavours while retaining the variety’s super attractive florals. It’s a seamless beauty in ripe red cherries, plum, maraschino cherries, hibiscus, wild herbs, earth, dusty cocoa and the merest splash of confection. It arrives fully formed with a subtle complexity and great drinkability delivered in fine yet linear tannins. A lovely purity of varietal expression. Drink now–2030 Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz 2019 G 96 Oracle is one of original labels that marked the birth of Kilikanoon in 1997. It brings not only a sense of history but of the power we so often associate with traditional Clare Valley Shiraz. Dense and ripe, it comes in layers of black fruits, high spice, liquorice, dark chocolate, fragrant sweet oak, Aussie bush notes and a quintessential, inherent earthiness. There is a deep complexity, but essential to the wine is an elegance, courtesy of some beautifully refined, ripe tannins. Undeniably drinkable, but further patience will definitely be rewarded. Drink now–2039 Knappstein Ackland Vineyard Watervale Riesling 2025 G 96 A single vineyard wonder from one of the highest-altitude vineyards in the Clare Valley, 450–500 metres above sea level. A deep thread of savoury, stony, mineral- flecked flavour and precise lemon-lime citrus meets with an exotic preserved lemon and herbal edge. The result is one complex, fascinating and engaging young Riesling of some finesse. Chalky in texture and filigree-fine in acidity, it’s a keeper. Drink now–2040
184
The Vintage Journal
Knappstein Enterprise Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
G 96
The Enterprise Vineyard dates back to the origins of Knappstein, when it was called Enterprise Wines and founded by Tim Knappstein in 1974. Its home was, and still is, in the old Enterprise Brewery. Brings a lovely old vine feel to the glass, a natural, seamless, complex beauty. Enticing, ripe dark cherry, black fruits and plum move with poise enhanced by the company they keep in earth, dry leaves, spice, liquorice and cedary oak. An exceptional vintage, a top wine, delivered on a bed of fine tannins that never pause, running through to a lingering finish that you will not
want to end. Drink now–2040 Koerner Old Vine Limestone Riesling 2024
G 96
Impressive complexity on show from the start in this beautifully refined and complex Riesling sourced from old vines planted in 1973. Fragrance is all about white flowers, jasmine and warm citrus tones with spice. Elegance in the glass running smooth with a deep thread of citrus, apple, lemon, lime and musk with rockpool/oyster shell. Fermented and aged in 1000L ceramic amphora, it boasts an entirely natural, effortless balance. Drink now–2040 O’Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2025 G 96 If Polish Hill River represents the power of Clare Valley Riesling, Watervale represents the finesse, the purity. Nowhere is this better exhibited than in the 2025 vintage. While it was a challenging vintage, by all accounts, Riesling shone. It shows. Bright, lime green hues. Classic Watervale scents, arrestingly aromatic and delicate in jasmine, wildflowers, bath salts, fresh lime and citrus skin and apple. An intensity of lime flavour lies at the wine’s core, a Watervale trait, in sync with florals. It’s a vibrant, alive palate with an easy textural flow in lime, green apple, pear skin, touch of rosemary, Thai basil and wet slate minerality. Finely textured with powdery fine acidity. Purity plus. This beauty will still be looking good in 10–15 years. Drink now–2040 Pauletts Polish Hill River Riesling 2025 G 96 Restrained and taut, the ’25 brings the sub-region’s noted concentrated lemon-lime qualities to the fore, together with its celebrated long, persistent finish. It is a study in line and length with a driving, sleek acid profile. Scents of wet slate, lime juice, fresh cut apple and sweet florals. A tightly contained palate, deeply concentrated and plush in citrus, green apple, white peach and hints of spice. Snaps tight and mouth-wateringly dry. Drink now–2040
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
185
Pauletts Polish Hill River Aged Release Riesling 2018
G 96
Deep golden hues let you know you are entering aged Riesling territory. That alluring fragrance rising from the glass confirms something special with its candied lemon rind, lime marmalade and toasty notes. Flavours build in layers of complexity, of honey-drenched fruit, buttered toast, spice and hints of pastille confection, all humming to a persistent acid beat that remains very much in place after eight years’ maturation. That beat will keep going. Looking delectable, offering top drinking right now and into the future. Drink now–2030 Rieslingfreak No. 14 Riesling 2025 G 96 Hails from the Watervale sub-region and a single vineyard managed by the Sandow family. Speaks clearly, eloquently, of a sense of place: of spring white flowers, citrus blossom, lime cordial and citrus zest, bright and aromatic. The filigree fine acidity brings a beautiful delicacy to the wine, lifting the citrus and aromatics and taking them long. It all but melts in the mouth. A real beauty. Drink now–2035 Skillogalee Small Batch Riesling 2025 G 96 A gem of a Riesling, purity amplified. Super restrained and refined aromas in dried lime peel, mandarin, lemon curd, apple and kaffir lime. A lovely restraint resides here with a deeply embedded lime and citrus intensity finely etched in rapier-like acidity and featuring a slatey-mineral undercurrent. Impeccably balanced, and what
length! Drink now–2037 Tim Adams Skilly Ridge Riesling 2022
G 96
Riesling lovers will be in seventh heaven. Skilly Ridge is an exceptional site, in turn producing some truly exceptional Riesling. Seamless in every respect. Fragrant in white florals, lantana, grapefruit pith, lime, fresh peeled apples, lemongrass. Smooth, dry, concentrated and balanced. Fruit and acidity work in harmony, and the palate brings a purity of citrus lime and apple flavour edged in lemongrass and ginger notes. Goes long, stays bright. Superb. Drink now–2038
Grosset Alea Riesling 2025
G 95
Displays the beauty and finesse of off-dry Riesling and boasts even more immediate drinkability in 2025 than usual, thanks to a warm, sunny and dry lead into vintage. Honeysuckle, spring blossom with lemon sorbet, lime, fresh cut apple and notes of saline. The aromatic florals are enticing and long-lived and flow seamlessly with citrus, apple, hints of white peach on super-clean acidity across the palate. Juicy, bright with a citrus tang. A seamless off-dry statement. Drink now–2030
186
The Vintage Journal
Grosset Springvale Riesling 2025
G 95
One of the memorable Riesling perfumes striking at the heart of great Clare Valley Riesling with a bright, citrus lime intensity, green apple notes and spring blossom florals that fill the senses. They carry seamlessly onto the palate, and just like its ‘25 sibling, there is an immediate approachability, drinkability, assisted by mouth- watering acidity. The vintage delivers a Riesling that is both a joy to drink now and has so much potential for further ageing. Flavours are tightly formed, occasionally slipping into white peach among the apple and citrus with background florals. Runs long, runs clean, runs pure. Drink now–2040 Jim Barry Wines Clarevale Cabernet, Malbec 2022 G 95 There’s a lot of history in each glass of Clarevale – the Clarevale Co-Op is where Jim Barry started his winemaking career. He was also among the first to plant cabernet and malbec back in 1964. Today, the blend is a regional icon. Inky, deep purple hues. Aromas mix the earthy – undergrowth, autumnal leaves and dark herbs - with blackberries, dark plums, spice and gentle, rose petal aromatics. Structurally tight with firm tannins in place, it is still early days for this wine of an exceptional vintage. Clarevale is built for a long journey. Everything is in readiness. If you have the patience, give it the time. If not, consider a decant. Drink now–2040 Jim Barry Wines Spring Farm Block No. 73 Shiraz 2022 G 95 The second release of this 495-metre-high altitude grown shiraz that so persuasively highlights – as if it were needed – that Clare Valley Shiraz comes in many different guises. Block 73 in ’22 falls into the finely structured, cooler climate, spicier style, a wine that delivers power with perfect grace. Red plum, blueberry fruits and blackberries mingle with lively florals with hints of sage and herbs on the bouquet. A finely tuned palate of complexity and depth follows. It’s one lively three-year-old, bouncy and fresh in presenting red and dark fruits upfront with a key layer of spice, but check under the hood and there’s a motor running on a deep, concentrated flavour and fine, firm tannins. Drink now–2035 Kilikanoon Duke Reserve Grenache 2021 G 95 Forthright and packed in ripe, rich grenache fruit, Duke is all about an earthy, savoury complexity. Aromas of plum, black fruits, cassis, earth, leather, chocolate, date pudding and dark woody spices. Brings impressive depth of concentrated fruit to the palate on smooth, open-knit tannins and it lingers . . . a long time. A lovely, natural balance on display here with oak up to the challenge set by that amazing quality fruit. Drink now–2037
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
187
Kilikanoon Baudinet Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro 2022
G 95
A high-altitude vineyard is the source for one of the most consistent GSMs going round. Each year, the story is one of brightness and purity, and in 2022, recognised as an exceptional vintage, it excels. Red fruits to the fore in wild raspberry, cherry, plum, confection notes and spice with dusty cocoa and clove as it works its way with energy and life across the palate. Love the maraschino cherry, musk confection note – discreet but tantalising – through the finish. Drink now–2036 Kilikanoon Ashton 1920 Mataro 2021 G 95 Mataro (aka Mourvèdre) has a long history in the Clare Valley. This wine is testament to that history with century-old vines bringing a seamless quality to the glass in a fine-textured, silky tannined, medium-bodied, darkly fruited wine. Has a solid serve of ripe black fruits, blueberries and plums, spice and liquorice, fennel seed and bay leaf with earth, all beautifully delivered with just a hint of savouriness. Precision and grace. Drink now–2031 Kilikanoon Attunga 1865 Shiraz 2020 G 95 An engaging and commanding Shiraz from an historic single vineyard planted in 1865. The ancestor classified vines are believed to be the oldest continually producing vines in the Clare Valley. Intense and impenetrable dark red hues. Dense, rich dark plum fruit, blackberry, cassis, tapenade, earth and leather, bacon fat, allspice, star anise, chocolate, sage and more, so bountiful and deeply concentrated, tempered by time in French oak. There is so much complexity delivered across a number of layers, including the savoury, in this wine. As a five-year-old, it remains singularly youthful. Indeed, it pays to offer the wine a decant before enjoying in its youth. It opens up beautifully with air, and those spices take on an extra life. Savoury tannins remain firm, guiding the wine on its long journey. Drink now–2038
188
The Vintage Journal
Knappstein The Mayor’s Vineyard Shiraz 2021
G 95
The name? It refers to a vineyard planted by a former mayor of Adelaide in 1969. We are talking about a high, cool-climate vineyard at 506 metres! The combined magic of a top vintage, old vines and high-altitude site is all about a fine-featured, floral and red-fruited elegance. It resonates with the drinker from the first sniff of blood plum, wild raspberry, black cherry and a world of finely ground baking spices that lights up the aromatics. While vanillin oak brings another layer of complexity on the palate, it does so seamlessly, effortlessly, allowing the purity of fruit expression to be celebrated, and it’s some gorgeous, peppery spiced fruit. Drink now–2032 Koerner Slate Riesling 2024 G 95 Sourced from vines planted in 1923 and planted in clay soils over slate. Brings a mix of light and shade to the glass. The light is the citrus brightness in lemon, lime and tangerine skin with apple. The shade is the savoury influence of preserved lemon and chalky texture. Together, they bring depth and tensile grip with a lilting citrus tang. Both complex and delicious – win, win! Drink now–2038 Matriarch & Rogue Alice Syrah 2023 G 95 The maker uses the term Syrah for the first time here in tune with the cooler 2023 vintage. It’s a wine of ripe black fruits, warm friendliness with a full burst of aromatics and spiciness really opens up the palate and the wine – hence the Syrah moniker. Cassis, blackberries, black plum, liquorice, dark rose, violet, vanillin woody spices, black pepper, earth. Has considerable presence and the smoothest of a silky tannin flow. Alice shows real gravitas, a serious, nicely integrated young red with a big future ahead. Drink now–2033
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
189
O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River Riesling 2025
G 95
Concentrated, elegant, with power to burn. Polish Hill River brings its A game to a year that brought its challenges and brushes them aside in a display of quiet assurance. Fruit is fresh and nicely elevated in Polish Hill River spice. Stewed spiced apple, ruby grapefruit, pear skin, papaya, white pepper and a stony mineral edginess on the palate holds the promise of budding complexity. It’s early days, but the beginnings are there, together with textural appeal that is still developing. Acidity is super charged and bright finishing with a green apple tartness to close. It’s a big lasting finish and impression for a wine that so excites from first to last. Drink now–2042 O’Leary Walker Polish Hill River/Armagh Shiraz 2023 G 95 Another top expression of Clare Valley Shiraz from these experienced winemakers, one that embraces both restrained power and elegance. Deep in colour, elevated in spicy, floral aromatic scent and dark fruits, it joins the palate, expanding the flavour dial considerably. Briar and earth meet blackberry, cassis, black cherry, warm toasty mocha oak, anise, sage and bay leaf. Eighteen months’ maturation in French hogsheads imparts fine tannins and an added depth of flavour. Drink now–2033 Pauletts Polish Hill River Shiraz 2023 G 95 A stylish, elegant Shiraz from a sub-region noted for its ancient, mineral-rich soils which brings a natural, seamless quality to Shiraz. Unforced and relayed in blackberry, blueberry and plum, dark spices, chocolate, earth, delivered across smooth tannins with an underlying power and concentration. Drink now–2033 Pauletts 109 Reserve Shiraz 2021 G 95 Neil Paulett was the 109th winemaker to graduate from Roseworthy College in 1972; this label is for him. A barrel selection, it’s built for extended ageing. Mapped out in ripe, robust tannins carrying plum, black and dark cherry fruit, blackstrap liquorice, earthy notes and dark-spiced mocha oak. Combines a boldness with a well-spiced liveliness that is most attractive, especially when it lifts aromatically to
finish. Drink now–2038 Pauletts 109 Reserve Riesling 2024
G 95
Aromas float on a bed of spring flowers, honeysuckle, citrus and white pepper. Intense and vivacious, it has energy to burn with a palate that jumps in mineral spark with lemon sorbet, grapefruit pith, apple, fine peppery spice and hints of rosemary. A long, crisp, driving finish. Drink now–2037
190
The Vintage Journal
Pauletts Winemaker Series EKS Elodie, Watervale Syrah 2024
G 95
With EKS, the winemaker gets to play around with whole bunches and single vineyard Watervale grapes, and the result is one lovely, rounded, spicy, sweet- fruited Syrah. It is also a wine of hidden depths. Aromas light up in black plum, blackberry, aniseed and spice. Rolls out smoothly, delivering layers of ripe, dark plum and blackberry, cassis flavours and the liveliest of spices. Comes framed in fine, elegant tannins that hold bright throughout. Nicely balanced and textural, it drives deep through the finish. Drink now–2034 Pikes Traditionale Riesling 2025 G 95 A super delicious youngster already showing plenty of Clare Riesling personality with its florals, citrus and fragrant bath powder aromas. There is a smooth, textural element to this wine that makes it easy to get to know and enjoy early. It opens up on a flavour bed of lime curd and lemon butter, candied rind, apple and spice. Dry and pithy to close. Drink now–2035 Pikes The Merle Riesling 2025 G 95 The Merle comes classically proportioned from Polish Hill River fruit and is well known for its age-ability. The ’25 vintage offers a linear, pure line of citrus lime that is deeply concentrated for a Riesling so young. It tingles the tastebuds, puckers the mouth with citrus zestiness. Lime peel, lemon pith, quince and apple lay the groundwork on the palate, and assisted by juicy, laser-like acidity, it runs long. Give it more time and more will be revealed. Drink now–2038 Pikes The E.W.P. Shiraz 2023 G 95 Has a timeless quality about it, the epitome of classic Clare Shiraz that is both generous and spice-driven now, but with so much potential yet to be fully explored. Give it time. Scents rise in plum and sweet black fruits, liquorice, chocolate and baking spices. Riding on a bed of firm, earthy tannins, the palate is taut, filled in by woody spiced oak overtones, chocolate, plum, dark fruits, spice and earth. A pleasing, all round complexity of flavours, fully integrated. Drink now–2040 Rieslingfreak No. 2 Polish Hill River Riesling 2025 G 95 Tart, tangy and super fresh in spring flowers and honeysuckle florals on the bouquet with lime juice, green apple, sweet basil and kaffir lime. Flavours of grapefruit, lemon pith and lime with a hint of lemon candied peel carry long and super lively on a line of racy acidity. Stays bright and brisk and long. Drink now–2035
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
191
Sevenhill Quarry Road Cabernet, Malbec 2021
G 95
Statuesque and elegant, a wine you can feel comfortable about ageing further if you choose. Those Cabernet fine tannins are firm and taut – impressive building blocks for the future. Dark fruits, cassis, plum and violet florals with a distinct herbal, leafy streak are beautifully elegant and concentrated. Sweetly spiced toasty oak remains a background note, nicely crafted and subtle, and in balance. Good grip on the finish. This wine is still very much at the start of its journey. There is great promise ahead. Drink now–2035 Sevenhill Open Range Grenache 2023 G 95 A study in the beauty of Grenache, of lively florals, red-fruited prettiness and a single purity of expression. Cherry, macerated red berries, dried herbs, bay leaf, pressed flowers, eastern spices and light savoury notes fill the palate. At its core there is an unassuming elegance, a fine tannined presence that holds the promise of more to come. Drink now, sure, but there is also a depth yet to be explored. Drink now–2035 Sevenhill Inigo Riesling 2025 G 95 The sense of place is strong with this Riesling, with its dusty florals and citrus charm woven through warm textures. Intense lime and spice light up the aroma with sweet-smelling herbal edges and apple blossom florals. How delightful to see this level of complexity in a Riesling so young. Flavours run deep in full citrus mode – pith, peel and juice – with spice, and the weight gathers through the finish with a light savoury flourish to close. Drink now–2037 Skillogalee Trevarrick Riesling 2025 G 95 A 470-metre high-altitude vineyard site that produces an age-worthy Riesling of note and some complexity, but it is very much just starting its journey. Restrained at this early stage with a sense of deep-seated power and varietal integrity. Slowly reveals a solid core of citrus, apple, sweet herbs and light spice with a lemon pastille edge to close. Dry, crisp, powerful wine in the making on the palate. Just needs time. Drink now–2040 Skillogalee Trevarrick Shiraz 2022 G 95 Fully complex in ripe fruit, toasty oak, elevated spice and meaty fermentation characters that impress from the first sniff and taste. Striking black fruits, violet floral aromatics, vanillin and woody spices, bracken and subtle charcuterie notes are in intricate detail on the palate. Buoyant and aromatic, it sings. Supported by fine tannins, Trevarrick boasts the best of both worlds, such is its balance – thoroughly engaging now and with so much potential for the future. Drink now–2035
192
The Vintage Journal
Skillogalee Trevarrick Cabernet Sauvignon 2022
G 95
Solid, deep purple-black hues. There’s neither issue in colour nor in the obvious power of an aroma wielding dark, oak-derived spice, sandalwood, solid black fruits, cassis, dark roasting herbs, earth and spice. Impressive ripe, well composed fruit intensity to taste with a sprinkling of dark cocoa and bay leaf adding that something extra. Fine tannins run long and deep with a seamless journey to the finish. Still has a lot to give and will reward further ageing. Drink now–2040 Sussex Squire JRS The Sussex Squire Shiraz 2022 G 95 “The best of the best” from the producer’s dry-grown vineyards, which is aged in 100% new French oak for 24 months. Take it as read that this is a serious young Shiraz, and while it is certainly approachable now, the best is yet to come. Beautifully fragrant in violet, eastern spices, anise, cassia bark, ripe black fruits and high tone vanillin oak. Sweeping fine tannins help spread concentrated fruit flavour and toasted spices building as it gathers pace with oak, earth and leather notes developing towards the finish. Impressive. Drink now–2036 Sussex Squire JRS The Sussex Squire Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 95 Only 600 bottles were produced of Sussex Squire’s top Cabernet sourced from the Samuel Block in Armagh from 40-plus-year-old dry-grown vines. It is well- credentialed and comes to the glass fragrant, layered and deeply concentrated. Layers of dense fine Cabernet tannins sit firmly against a background of blackberry, plum and cassis, high spice, Aussie bush, eucalyptus, undergrowth, earth and smart, polished oak. It’s early days for this complex, nicely crafted youngster, which is built for further time in bottle. Drink now–2038
Taylors The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
G 95
Not the easiest of vintages, with drought conditions and high to extreme summer temperatures leading into harvest. Ripe boysenberry, blueberry, red fruits, cassis and earthy, Aussie bush and spice scents. There’s a lively juiciness to taste against a background of well-proportioned tannins, cedary, wood spiced oak, briar-leaf note and concentrated fruit. It is both flavoursome and well-structured, finishing with some serious oak influenced tannin dryness. Wouldn’t mind a run in the cellar. Drink now–2038 Taylors St Andrews Shiraz 2021 G 95 Clare Valley’s signature red grape variety in an exceptional vintage – it doesn’t get much better than that. Impenetrable, dark crimson-red hues. Sweet scents rise from the glass in toasty oak, ripe berries, sweet baking spices, black liquorice. Well balanced, this robust wine is built on a core of ripe, sweet black-berried fruit, cocoa, liquorice, menthol and earth. Comes together on a bed of solid tannins. In other words, it’s all Clare Valley. Still a pup, youthful and ready to go, but it is also built for further time in bottle. Your call. Drink now–2035
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
193
Vickery Polish Hill Riesling 2024
G 95
This, I believe, is winemaker Keeda Zilm’s first Polish Hill River Riesling under the Vickery label, and it’s a ripper of a wine. It’s stylish, spice-laden and super dry with that bright, slatey mineral character we so associate with Polish Hill River, a premier sub-region for Riesling in the Clare Valley. The fruit hails from Pauletts, so say no more. Lemon curd, citrus, five spice, nutmeg and apple set the aroma alight. Spice runs deep and goes long on the palate accompanied by apple, citrus, a splash of musk florals and orange peel and just the lightest sense of savouriness. Minerally, saline acidity prevails, setting its sights – and the wine – on a long road ahead. What
a complex wonder of a wine. Drink now–2036 Wines by KT Peglidis Vineyard Watervale Riesling 2025
G 95
Desert dry and clean with a pure line of citrus that just goes on and on. Brings new meaning to the wine term ‘line and length,’ with a seamless progression from scent to palate in citrus tones, alight with spring flowers, tart green apple, quince and nashi pear. Feel the tension and grip, just a little, as the wine works its way across the palate. Superb. Drink now–2035 Wines by KT Tinta Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha 2023 G 95 Tinta shows a freewheeling, lively Spanish attitude full of energy and red-fruited generosity. A blend of tempranillo, graciano and garnacha (aka grenache), it lights up the bouquet in red cherries, wild strawberry, crushed herbs, dried leaves, anise and rose aromatics. Offers a mouthful of cherries, cassis, plum, red liquorice, earth and spice – really expressive and bright – with astringent, earthy tannins driving the palate. So vibrant, so delicious. Drink now–2032 Wines by KT Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 G 95 A statuesque, striking Cabernet Sauvignon from Kerri Thompson that comes deeply layered and classic in proportion. Dark fruits, cassis, fragrant sweet oak, Aussie bush, earth and peppery spice aromas. Impressive ripeness on the palate and so, too, hints of black pepper, liquorice and spice that lift aromatically. Fills the mouth with flavour, elegantly trimmed in fine but firm tannins. Still has a long way to go. Drink now–2035 Artwine Wicked Stepmother Fiano 2025 G 94 One serious, and seriously good, Fiano that seeks out the complex side of the southern Italian grape variety. Savoury pear skin, preserved lemon and citrus aromas with grapefruit peel. Delivers a juicy, phenolic texture with a bitter almond intensity and citrus and pear. Finishes chalky dry. Drink now–2030
194
The Vintage Journal
Claymore Wines London Calling Cabernet, Malbec 2023
G 94
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%) and Malbec (25%), and while the maker regards the 2023 vintage as one built on patience, it was certainly rewarded. This is one elegant, beautifully defined and executed young red. Subtly, it works its considerable charm. Dark purple-crimson hues. Dark cherries, plums, warm roasted spice and mint run smooth and long, framed in supple tannins. Holds the line beautifully. How good is this for $25! Drink now–2030 Jim Barry Wines The McRae Wood Shiraz 2022 G 94 Often considered the baby The Armagh because it was first made in 1992 to help assuage the demand for the hard-to-procure flagship red. A complex and fragrant Shiraz that goes deep into what makes Clare Shiraz tick: dark plum and black fruits enhanced and lifted by swirling, aromatic spice. In a top year like 2022, the harmony is especially apparent. Moves with grace across the palate, highlighting good concentration of fruit married to dark, toasted spices, smart vanillin-hazelnutty oak, sweet earth, dusty cocoa, and driven by ripe tannins. Runs long, runs smooth and in balance. Drink now–2035 Kilikanoon Covenant Shiraz 2022 G 94 A real charmer of a Shiraz that engages with its upfront bright plum, blackberry and spicy pepperiness. It is a wine that brings a solid core of fine tannin and fruit intensity dressed in warm toasty oak, but it is the liveliness of the spice, the liquorice, the dusty cocoa notes that makes the lasting impact. Smooth right through to the finish with a lick of pepperiness to close. Drink now–2036 Knappstein 1878 Transcendence Riesling 2025 G 94 The barest of colour with hints of green introduces a young Riesling of purity and precision. Citrus blossom, lime juice, green apple aromas. Tight as a drum and concentrated, it is lemony fresh and chalky dry with a core of lemon, lime juice, mineral slatey-ness and light spice. Acidity is keen and there is an expectation of further ageing. Give it time. Drink now–2037 Koerner Classic Cabernet Sauvignon, Sciacarello 2022 G 94 A dash of 2% of the Italian grape sciacarello is added to cabernet sauvignon for “freshness,” according to the maker. The grape is known for its spiciness which also seems to work well here, lifting the black-fruited intensity of the cabernet fruit and ringing it in some delightful floral aromatics. There’s a lovely, youthful vibrancy to this three-year-old with its striking cassis and blood plum and dark cherry fruits, violet, leaf, briar and lively spice. Glossy and smooth, it combines a fine tannin line with a brightness in acidity that lifts the palate. Juicy and ripe and mighty enjoyable right now, but further patience will be rewarded. Drink now–2037
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Clare Valley
195
Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18 Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Page 23 Page 24 Page 25 Page 26 Page 27 Page 28 Page 29 Page 30 Page 31 Page 32 Page 33 Page 34 Page 35 Page 36 Page 37 Page 38 Page 39 Page 40 Page 41 Page 42 Page 43 Page 44 Page 45 Page 46 Page 47 Page 48 Page 49thevintagejourn.disciplemedia.com
Powered by FlippingBook