Smeaton Estate Sienna Riesling 2017
G 91
From a single vineyard in the Forreston district, showing in-the-zone colour for its age, with developed lime leaf and syrup aromas, some texture and spice building in the palate. The latter carries a bit of the role that more energetic acidity might do, with a soft landing texture-wise, though it lingers impressively. Drink now–2028 The Lane Vineyard Pinot Gris 2025 G 91 Herbal, fresh and pithy. Torn meadow flowers, fresh green apples and lime pith. It dances lightly on its feet and remains tensioned and taut from nose to tail. Creek water, crystals and more torn flowers on the finish. The acid is the highlight – keeping it lively and young. Drink now–2029 The Lane Vineyard Estate Chardonnay 2024 G 91 Gentle, fresh and lean. Pressed white flowers, Meyer lemon and grapefruit pith. The palate is citrus-bound, sinewy and bouncy by nature – effortlessly easy-going. Drink now–2031 Thistledown Suilven Chardonnay 2024 G 91 A quiet approach, fruit demure and understated aromatically as well as flavour- wise. Very minerally with acidity underlying more the focus at the moment. A style choice perhaps, but this needs a good swirl in a decanter or several more years in the bottle to watch it deliver its potential. There’s something in here, for sure – be patient. Drink now–2036 Turon Chardonnay 2024 G 91 A lovely, fruit-driven wine. Pomelo, lemon and wet clay. A leaner, fresher take on Adelaide Hills Chardonnay, where the beauty lies in its simplicity. Taut acid – it reminds me of diving into the Southern Ocean. I like it! Drink now–2030 Unico Zelo Alluvium Fiano 2023 G 91 Lemon oil, Geraldton wax and a touch of salt spray – It’s a textural little sass queen. Chewy. Nutty. Phenolic. The thinking person’s summer white. Rugged but charming. Camomile, dried pears and salty peanuts. The strong base note carries through to a chalky cocoon of a finish – long, pithy, and unapologetically firm. Drink 2027–2030
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Adelaide Hills
43
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