Tapanapa Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay 2024
G 95
I feel like I should curtsey before drinking this wine. What a treat. Such elegance. Such restraint. Green papaya, yellow grapefruit and Geraldton wax. It’s timeless – the only thing unsophisticated about this wine is me drinking it. The palate is pure, detailed and tensioned. Decant before drinking, or tuck some away for when you grow up. Lime sorbet, mandarin oil and pink salt. This is what it’s all about. Not big – just smart and articulate. The finish grips with terracotta phenolics, the acid and fruit sustained. I’ll taste it in my dreams. A great wine, and an honour to drink. Drink now–2040 Vinteloper Odeon Pinot Noir 2021 G 95 A single-vineyard wine, showing its age and wisdom. Browning brick in the glass – the colour of wrinkles; fine-wine smile lines, if you will. Pepper, apple seed and strawberry pie. The architecture is sturdy, the tannins chewy and abundant, carrying great length – all the wisdom and warmth are here. The tertiary notes are countered by a lively acid line – ageing backwards, in a way. Grilled plums, dried fig and maraschino cherry drift through the palate. It makes me want to put on a record and romanticise sadness. An interesting one to watch over the next few years, though I’d say now is a beautiful time to drink it. Drink now–2036 Wirra Wirra Yandra Vineyard Chardonnay 2024 G 95 Sourced from the east-facing Yandra Vineyard in the Lenswood region, this has been crafted to show its reductive, flinty, struck match notes, barrel influences, and winemaking techniques, while retaining solid varietal flavours, nicely balanced acidity and resulting pith. Smartly dressed. Drink now–2032 Aptitude Kenton Valley Chardonnay 2024 G 94 Great balance, smart winery work and fruit purity. Cashew cream, lemon butter and lime sorbet – with a touch of flint! The palate is concentrated; a bit of a show-off, but in an endearing way. Yuzu soda, smoked salt and green apple. It’s fresh and gets into every nook and cranny of the palate – evenly distributed between weight, freshness and fruit purity. The finish is longer than the Nullarbor, rolling out with candied ginger and clove. Drink now–2035 Art Wine Reserva Albariño 2023 G 94 A well-built wine – coastal, clean, and unapologetic. You can see the winemaker’s kiss – a light hand that lifts the natural varietal energy. Cantaloupe, green mango seed and cheesecloth. Weird combo – works anyway. Briny. Textural. Lime pith and salty air. Chalky grip. The finish folds in apricot kernel and almond skin – that bitter typicity that makes the variety what it is. It makes me crave anchovies and ceviche. A very lovely wine. Drink now–2030
South Australia Wine Guide 2026 | Adelaide Hills
17
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