BK Wines Gower Pinot Noir 2024
G 96
From the Lenswood region, this is an evolving joy to drink over time, pinot woodiness to start, bitumen, liquorice as well. After some airing, a prettiness appears in contrast to some smoky notes – 30% new barrels perhaps? Supportive tannins too, with salivating acidity in the finish. A serious, complex wine celebrating the multiple aromatics of the variety. Drink now–2036 DAOSA Blanc de Blancs 2017 Late Disgorged Chardonnay 2017 G 96 Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay in all its sparkling glory. First fermentation in older oak for 8 months, tiraged in January 2018, disgorged in June 2025, aged in bottle on lees for 90 months. Its purity is the real thing to note, above and beyond any detail, with only the faintest of long tirage ageing character just now appearing. What is so impressive here is the Piccadilly Valley stamp that comes through in the palate, with tingling and refreshing yellow grapefruit flavours clear and present, its pith and mineral/ salinity finish encouraging another sip… and another. Drink now–2030 Deviation Road Beltana Blanc de Blanc 2018 G 96 Immediate happiness – that’s what this wine gives me, and anyone smart enough to drink it. An Australian icon for good reason. White blossoms, lemon balm and soft Anzac biscuits. Such purity and drive; nothing out of place. Lightning-bright acid, porcelain-pure fruit. A fine, steady bead and a finish of wet chalk and stone. Share only with people you like – no punks. Drink now–2030 Riposte The Cutlass Shiraz 2023 G 96 Shiraz can be expressed in so many ways, depending on all of its elements of source, site, regional and specific climatic influences, of vintage weather variations, and of course winemaking techniques. In other words, it’s not all one and the same. This has a definite cool-climate, colder season stamp, with a wonderful, bright- eyed character, aromatics of summer berry pudding, crushed grape flesh, and dark mint. An exuberance as well: perhaps whole cluster and whole berry components. A tasting sensation that lifts upwards rather than buries the fruit under timber, earth and heavy spice. A swirl of crimson and black cherry and berry with gossamer tannins. A joyous wine to taste, then drink again – its natural purity is all that’s needed. Drink now–2032 Smeaton Estate Stella Chardonnay Chardonnay 2023 G 96 From the Forreston district, whole bunch pressed and rested in 30% new French barriques. Everything here expresses the high arts of Chardonnay, sophisticated oak and ripe peachy fruit in harmony to begin and onwards into the palate, where the subtle complexities of its maturing program are nurtured. No wild interferences. All class. Drink now–2034
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The Vintage Journal
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