Grüner Veltliner & Fiano Though small in number, the entries for Grüner and Fiano were a highlight – textural food wines made with real skill. The scores reflected that. Winery work was polished: the Grüners showed tension and salinity, while the Fianos were rich, abundant in green fruits, layered and indulgent. I’d be reaching for these wines in the fridge any day, and I think anyone looking to the Hills should be too. Sparkling Traditional method sparklings were the standout category, and the scores reflected it. House style often shone more clearly than vineyard or regional expression. Interestingly, the two top-performing producers represented opposing approaches: one rich and textural, the other linear, saline and tensioned. Both, however, showed precision, confidence and intent. I’d be looking to the Hills over its international counterparts, remembering that this is the cheapest these wines will ever be.
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The Vintage Journal
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