The diversity of the Hills is one of its challenges, and at its best, one of its most encouraging benefits. Still, its key strengths remain its champion styles. From the pen of co-reviewer Cyndal Petty comes these insightful comments:
Pinot Gris With consumer demand climbing, the shift toward the ‘Gris’ style is giving this variety fresh momentum. Skin contact, texture, and intrigue are all back on the table and producers are having fun with it. Some are taking risks with solids, oak and phenolics, and doing so beautifully, creating chewy, moreish styles with real presence. Some value restraint and let the fruit quality speak for itself. The general tone leans toward fuller, textural expressions, with slight skin contact and extraction handled thoughtfully across the board. Aromatic, layered wines with great colour in the glass – a strong showing, and the scores reflected it. Chardonnay (of course) At the lower price points, some wines lacked fruit concentration, yet the value in these saline, acid-driven and easy to drink entry-level examples was impressive. There’s a clear movement towards more reductive, sulphide-driven complexity, even among the traditional producers. It’s restrained, though, and rarely overdone. The best wines carried that reductive edge with purpose, balanced by fruit power and smart barrel-work to create harmony. Overall, Chardonnay this year showed medium weight and composure. A clear thread of yellow pomelo and beeswax ran through the best examples, with no heavy-handed, sweetly oaked styles in sight. A good thing. Pinot Noir Bright, ethereal and full of energy. The use of whole bunch was smart in many wines, adding lift and complexity without distraction. Stem tannins provided body and texture. A few lo-fi examples brought grit and honesty and it wouldn’t be the Hills without them. No confected or overtly leafy characters in sight, just good, thoughtful winemaking. Clear house styles made the region diverse, with a familiar thread of blood plum, black cherry skin, and bay leaf weaving through most vintages.
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The Vintage Journal
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